12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition $129

[marcexec]

Thanks Edward,

Will do, was planning to do that anyway later on.
I was just trying to get it to spin up to motivate myself

[Jamzz]

Just got mine.

Easy transaction, shipped fast and packaged well.

Thanks Lyen

[rojitor]

It seems you are the guy i need! i think i'll love your controller.

[Bubba]

Here is one of the best thread to read regarding counterfeit MOSFET from Methods. He is also one of the person who has really helped me a lot in the past.

Detecting Counterfeit 4110 Mosfets:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10655&start=0&hilit=counterfeit

Lyen

Hi,

I know this is an old thread, but I was wondering if you had any more controllers left. I'm using a 408 motor at 48v LiFePo4 and may want to get something besides my Journey controller as a backup. Thanks!

[ZOMGVTEK]

Did anyone ever test the regen power levels for any potential differences in efficiency? As in, would it be better to slow down more rapidly and generate more power for a shorter period of time, or slowly for a longer time?
I currently have it set to 0, which I assume is the lowest regen level. How significant is the jump from 0->2?

The controller is taking 6.6KW peak and still running, which is always good.

[zt3]

Has anyone tried this controller for Fisher and Paykel's 60S Smart Drive Motor? I'm currently building a hub motor with that equipped and I was wondering if this would be applicable for getting the performance curve of my design. As I've read from another thread, user 'F&P' suggested to regroup the coils per phase in parallel to increase the current carrying capacity. From http://www.ecoinnovation.co.nz/pdf/What ... 0Drive.pdf it states there that the factory stator 60S with star connection has an absolute maximum current of 1.5A and making it in parallel connection can increase it up to 20A. Now, my question is, could I still use this controller to be able to deliver a brake power of 2kW? Second, is there such a way where I can vary the speed via potentiometer or any other variable device of some sort?

Nicko

[TylerTrinh]

Lyen,
Do you have any more in stock?

Tyler

[Bubba]

Thanks Edward! Hooked up mine today and it's working great! Now it's time to do some fine tuning...

[Bubba]

I've searched for an answer to this one, but can't find a clear explanation...

For regen to work, do I connect the white wire connectors, turn it on in the controller setup, or both? Is there a difference?

Thanks!

[Red_Liner740]

Been running the controller for the last two weeks....love it!! best money spend on my e-bike so far

[Kingfish]

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[Arlo1]

You guys must calibrate it every controler will change a bit. It realy easy and there is a few ways to do it!

[nicobie]

You guys must calibrate it every controler will change a bit. It realy easy and there is a few ways to do it!

Yep, but start at 2.4. It will be really close.

[number1cruncher]

You guys must calibrate it every controler will change a bit. It realy easy and there is a few ways to do it!

Yep, but start at 2.4. It will be really close.

Just to clarify for anyone interested, its 2.4 milliOhm per shunt.

[Arlo1]

You guys must calibrate it every controler will change a bit. It realy easy and there is a few ways to do it!

Yep, but start at 2.4. It will be really close.

Just to clarify for anyone interested, its 2.4 milliOhm per shunt.

I have actualy seen a 4 wire shunt over 3.0 milliohms... There is so many easy ways to calibrate it other wise if you dont you are driving blind!

[Kingfish]

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[Kingfish]

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[Arlo1]

OK, I programmed both primary and secondary controllers to limit out at 10A, and Phase to 30A.

I have an idea on how to calibrate the secondary controller by using the primary wheel; disconnect the Phase/HE from the primary and use the secondary controller and CA instead.

Stupid Question Time: Does it make a difference which hub motor I use? In other words, if the CA is calibrated to a particular controller, does it matter whether I use a 9C 2806 or a 2807 winded motor?

T’anx, KF

No what you are calibrating is the voltage drop inside the controler (resistance of the shunt inside the controler)so once the ca knows the controler its the same for evey motor.

[Kingfish]

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[slayer]

I don t want to contradict what Justin says but i think that you must take in consideration that the C A will surpass a little bit the max amps that you are setting

...so if by example you set the ca to 10 amps it is possible that the ca by the time it adjust itself to 10 amps it went a little over ...if after a little while your ca reads 10 amps it is then that you should take note ...because i tried that feature on the ca and at first too it was a little higher so the max amps will be recorded therefore not the 10 amps after it has settled

because in your example you only talk about the max amps is why i say this... what was the continuous amps after

[Arlo1]

What a major pain this was; with Controller set to 10A, and RShunt set to 2.400mOhm the CA said I was at 11.62 MaxA. However repetative testing concluded that THE BEST WAY to get MaxA was not by climbing a hill, but to climb the hill and depressing the rear brake HARD. Took me a while to figure this out. Regardless, my RShunt value came in at 3.210 mOhm to where MaxA reads 10.11 to 10.17 which is as close as I can get. Going higher or lower threw it way off. I have not modified the shunts, though there my be a little glue next to them after the low-ESR cap mod.

Shunted, KF

Sorry kingfish. I think you missunderstood me but you want to compare the amp reading in real time you can get very close just holding the wheel off the ground otherwise use the wire cut mode on a battery charger and run a known current through the shunt and compare the ca to what other meter you are using!

[Arlo1]

The different sampling rates in the ca vs the meter will give different peaks!

[Kingfish]

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[Kingfish]

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[amberwolf]

Are they identical controllers? (I would assume so, given the thread this is in, and that they are this thread's titular type, but....)

There are some controllers like my EVAssemble unit that appear to only work in the "demand speed" mode, which is where the throttle also controls braking even if brake is not engaged, if throttling down below the speed the wheel is actually at.

I am not sure if the Xie Chang (Infineon) controllers have this mode or not--I have not used it on mine, just regular regen braking. The two working ones I have are a 6FET from Lyen and a 12FET that I think was an Ecrazyman. Both are nearly identical, except the 12FET does not have the X3 pad, IIRC, and so there was something in it I couldn't do and test (which I can't remember what that was right now; I'd have to look it up in the CrazyBike2 thread).

If both of yours are identical newer Xie Changs, then with identical programming they should behave the same. If they don't, then my first suspicion is that they have different firmware revisions, and/or there are EEPROM locations in the MCU that are not writing the values you are sending, for whatever reason, in one of them.

I can't think of a reason for a difference in behavior besides that, as any kind of hardware problem outside the MCU would probably cause some other (most likely obvious) problem.

I suppose that if the battery pack voltage on a controller was high enough, that regen might engage but not actually produce any drag, as no (or too little) current would flow back to the battery.

Similarly, if the motor's BEMF voltage is too high, the controller will probably prevent regen to avoid damage to the controller itself.