12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition $129

[hillzofvalp]

moved

[hillzofvalp]

I think it's my gate resistors and/or drivers. Which are the gate resistors (C3C?)? should they be 10 Ohms? C3C is probably a capacitor, but it's singled out so I thought it might be the gate resistor. I see lots of 222s, 115s, 511s, 2011s, 016s, and 121s. between high side and low side there are 103s
moved:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=39882

[Blackssr]

I just ordered the LYEN 12 Fet controller, CA, prgramming cable,thumb throttle and 3 speed switch today. I was wondering if anyone had used this controller with the 1000 Watt motor from the Yescomusa kit. I have over 1000 miles on the kit with the stock controller and 14S3p. I plan to upgrade to 20S3p as soon as the 12 fet controller arrives. My only concern is the phase/hall wiring. Edward is sending a worksheet to help out but I was wondering if anyone had made the switch from the controller that came with the kit to the LYEN controller and if they can advise me of the color combo (Hall/Phase) that worked for them.

Any help or advice would be appreciated and thanks in advance.


Mike

[icecube57]

All I can say is Lyen covers his ass on every controller sale by giving the customer a video of the controller operating his ebike motor before he sends it out. He does give end user support. Hes supported me on my frock ups. I pay the cost for the repairs and it has always worked after the repair were made. He does respond to emails.

You say when the controller arrived it was working fine and then you mounted or did whatever you did and it stopped working. So are saying he sent you a working product that some how stopped working... after you tested it... How does this sound.... to me it sounds like a reverse polarity issue..... thats the only thing that i know that would vaporize the shunts.. I would know beause ive done it before. Given that the key switch wasn't in the loop before I would probably start there.

[icecube57]

I could have sworn I responded to a LYEN BASH POST... Guess the OP deleted it.
Thank GOD for my cache.... so i dont appear like a dumbass....

I live in the netherlands and ordered a 12 fet programmable Lyen controller.

Afther connecting the controller everything was working fine.
Then i mounted my controller in the controller compartment and wanted to do a testdrive.
I turned my key and the controller dit not repond annymore
I opened the controller and the shunt resistor was fried and the red wire
comming from the display connector was blacked.

The trange thing was that i never connected this connector because i don`t have a display.

I sended the conroller back to Mr Lyen and he sended me a pic of my fried controller,the strange thing was that het removed the piece of burned red wire,This was the evidence where the shortcut came from ,the display connector that i never used,!!!!

also on the picture he sended me you could see clearly that ther was some solder spoil on a yellow wire.

So there is a possibility that the shortcut was ceated by a lose solderpart
in the controller.

i asked some critical questions to mr Lyen but he does not answer my questions.
I sended the controlle back and he told me the repair would cost max 60 dollar,nothing about guarantee .

when he received the controller i had to pay 70 dollar for the repair.
i had a electrotechnical education and i am shure that i dit not create
a shortcut.

I lookes like Mr Lyen does not give any guarantee on his products even if there is evidence of lose solder in the controller,and he even removed a piece of burnt wire (the evidence) where the problem came from.
i also sended him a few mails about these things but he is not responding annymore

so buying a conroller from Mr Lyen is not without risk,and he takes no responsability ans does not give any guarantee on the prodcts he sells
and all the costs are for the costumer .
it lookes like when there is a problem it`s always the fault of the costumer

so i would think twice to order a controller from mr Lyen !!

[hjns]

I could have sworn I responded to a LYEN BASH POST... Guess the OP deleted it.
Thank GOD for my cache.... so i dont appear like a dumbass....

You are not a dumbass, I read the same post but decided not to respond.

[dnmun]

he may wanna think twice about his 'electrotechnical' education.

sounds like reversed polarity to me too.

[amberwolf]

I suspect that the poster removed his post in order to get support from Lyen. Lyen has requested people to remove their negative posts before (whether they are in the right or not), and I do not think this is correct behavior for any vendor; it makes me not trust any vendor that does this sort of thing for any reason. I thank Icecube57 for quoting from cache on that post; I thought that I should do so, or lock the post, so that it coudl not be deleted or altered, but I did not do so (should have, though, what I was afraid of did happen). I myself have one of Lyen's 6FETs, and he's been of great help with the only problem I had with it (caused by the heat here in Phoenix plus loading it heavily on my cargo bike & trailer)...but I still don't like that he asks people to remove such posts, instead of simply replying publicly to the points made.

I didnt' quite understand all of the post, so I didn't reply to it, as I didnt' have the time at that moment ot try to figure out what questions to ask to clarify the post.

I could have sworn I responded to a LYEN BASH POST... Guess the OP deleted it.
Thank GOD for my cache.... so i dont appear like a dumbass....

I live in the netherlands and ordered a 12 fet programmable Lyen controller.

Afther connecting the controller everything was working fine.
Then i mounted my controller in the controller compartment and wanted to do a testdrive.
I turned my key and the controller dit not repond annymore
I opened the controller and the shunt resistor was fried and the red wire
comming from the display connector was blacked.

The trange thing was that i never connected this connector because i don`t have a display.

I sended the conroller back to Mr Lyen and he sended me a pic of my fried controller,the strange thing was that het removed the piece of burned red wire,This was the evidence where the shortcut came from ,the display connector that i never used,!!!!

also on the picture he sended me you could see clearly that ther was some solder spoil on a yellow wire.

So there is a possibility that the shortcut was ceated by a lose solderpart
in the controller.

i asked some critical questions to mr Lyen but he does not answer my questions.
I sended the controlle back and he told me the repair would cost max 60 dollar,nothing about guarantee .

when he received the controller i had to pay 70 dollar for the repair.
i had a electrotechnical education and i am shure that i dit not create
a shortcut.

I lookes like Mr Lyen does not give any guarantee on his products even if there is evidence of lose solder in the controller,and he even removed a piece of burnt wire (the evidence) where the problem came from.
i also sended him a few mails about these things but he is not responding annymore

so buying a conroller from Mr Lyen is not without risk,and he takes no responsability ans does not give any guarantee on the prodcts he sells
and all the costs are for the costumer .
it lookes like when there is a problem it`s always the fault of the costumer

so i would think twice to order a controller from mr Lyen !!

[rolandvb]

he may wanna think twice about his 'electrotechnical' education.

sounds like reversed polarity to me too.

not !

[hybride]

That the power resistor in serie with the ignition wire blows is a little mystery. After the resistor there is a 5V regulator (8705?) as i understand from Lyen. I read about possible reverse current, but a 78xx can't draw negative current imo? So why can the resistor burn and destroy the logic behind? Anyone can think/help of any explanation? It seems to me that the ignition wire easily can be protected by reverse current by adding a Scotkky serie diode.

The poster of the deleted post is a friend of mine and we argued what could be gone wrong with installation of the controller. We want to know to avoid repetition. It is still unresolved.

[icecube57]

A reverse "polarity" basically creates a dead short on the controller so the current tries to find an easy path to ground.THis is a small gauge wire that was passing a ton of amps as it was trying to find ground and as it was doing this the shunt resisors couldnt take current so they failed. If something in the circuit does try to cock block the current it then makes the conductor thats carrying that current into a resistor which heats up that wire melting the insulation. But the wire was able to conduct that current all the way to the shunt long enough for it to fail viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9934 read on this thread and several others on the sphere. This seems like a classic reverse polarity. It may not be on the battery mains but there something on the bike thats trying to ground through the controller. I got a question does the key switch have a red and black wire. Is the red wire going to the ignition and the black wire going to ground. If so this is wrong also There are several things that parallel off the ignition line to the battery mains and you simply gave it a super easy path to ground if that is the case.

This thread also suggests above why you can put in a diode. But one may possibly be put in parallel with the main. There is volt drop and resistance with diodes.

[hybride]

Are we talking about the same? The power resistor only burns when there is a big current, forward or backward, through the ignition (red) wire for the logic. Normally about 200mA Lyen said. Even when put this wire to earth should not make a problem imo. Therefore it's recommendable to put a Skottky diode here. It has only a voltage drop of 0,25V. In the transfer 48V > 5V volt negligible.

[icecube57]

Start a thread in the technical section if you really want an answer. Lets no pollute this thread much more.

[Philistine]

I just wanted to pay icecube57s use of the term, whereby current gets "cock blocked". If icecube57 taught electronics 101 I would be there for the class, that is exactly how I need things explained to me.

But on Amberwolfs point, about vendors getting posts taken off threads. I guess there reaches a point where sometimes (and I am not saying this about the post in question, because I just don't know), but regularly on ES you get whack jobs posting post after post of complaint, and then it turns out after 50 posts that the whole complaint was bogus. Not only why should the seller have to put up with that crap being on their thread, but it doesn't help buyers to have to wade through page after page of complaint/response which then ends with some idiot going "Oh you put the red in the red?", that doesn't help buyers?

I know this as a businessman myself, who has to respond to forum postings about my business, the fact that after 75 postings of defamation, if it concludes with one post of the complainer saying "Sorry, my bad, I was totally wrong", that doesn't help my business - most of my potential clients will get 40 posts into the idiots posts of abuse, and decide not to use my business (before getting further).

I personally think this issue needs to be considered by ES, in terms of perhaps allowing a "retailer" controlled thread, whereby the retailer actually pays Justin/ES (for maintenance costs I mean), but it is understood that the retailer controls the thread (and that is stated at the top of that section). Just a thought.

[Kingfish]

I’m with you Philistine: I don’t have a problem with someone posting a problem with a product. However I get a bit fed up with one-off complaints that don't affect the rest of us, and that really need to be managed in another thread instead of the product informational thread; these are two completely different principles of support.

• This is “Items for Sale” forum: Product sold here.
• This particular product is well-documented by the seller and community. It pays to search before asking.
• I own two… or maybe three of these units. I lurk on this thread for new information or changes, and not to read about basic customer complaints.
• There’s plenty of space out there to start a problem thread.
• I encourage the idea of Vendor-managed threads, and/or Admins parsing/starting new threads in an effort to triage support and resolve issues. That’s just basic ownership and tracking of business-related product support.

As with IceCube, let’s not pollute this thread please with conversations that should remain between seller and consumer.

Thank you, KF

[Blackssr]

I just ordered the LYEN 12 Fet controller, CA, prgramming cable,thumb throttle and 3 speed switch today. I was wondering if anyone had used this controller with the 1000 Watt motor from the Yescomusa kit. I have over 1000 miles on the kit with the stock controller and 14S3p. I plan to upgrade to 20S3p as soon as the 12 fet controller arrives. My only concern is the phase/hall wiring. Edward is sending a worksheet to help out but I was wondering if anyone had made the switch from the controller that came with the kit to the LYEN controller and if they can advise me of the color combo (Hall/Phase) that worked for them.

Any help or advice would be appreciated and thanks in advance.


Mike

I hope this helps some members out there with a similar setup like mine. After about 1/2 hour or so and following the worksheet that Lyen set me I determined the correct wire combo for my Yescomusa ( the LA Shop) 1000 wattt ebay kit. The motors runs smooth as it did before with a no amp load of about .80-1.5.

Hall Controller - Hall Motor
Blue - Blue
Yellow - Green
Green - Yellow

Phase Controller - Phase Motor
Blue - Blue
Yellow - Green
Green - Yellow

[usa_electrophile]

i'd like one too. still available and how long to delivery to Illinois after payment?

[skeetab5780]

As always thank you lyen for the fast shipping and great controllers. Ive owned the 9 12 and 18. Good stuff

[jaeconsult]

I am new to this forum but I have been building and repairing electric bikes for about 4 years now. My current bike started its life as a Liberty City Bike 48v 350 watt rear hub drive and is now a mid drive hub motor system with a 6 speed deraillure. It has blown hall sensors so I was looking for a sensorless controller that would allow me to push the voltage up eventually to around 90 volts to increase mileage and speed. I got on this forum and found the lyen controllers and I ordered the 12 FET 4110 Mark II Extreme Modder Sensorless LYEN Edition Controller and I am really happy with it. I have pushed the voltage up to 72 presently and the bike tops out in 6th gear at 31 mph with a fresh charge. The controller works flawlessly and it is really smooth on the startup even though it is sensorless. Acceleration is better than expected and with the ability to adjust the programing I can tweak the system to give me the best mileage as well as provide overcurrent protection to the motor. I have not tried the regen yet as that will require me to get rid of the rear deraillure freewheel, but that is one of my next steps and based on how the controller works presently I am sure that it will work flawlessly as long as I stay in the 72volt range. I cant say how happy I am to have found this controller and how easily it was to setup and modify via the programing. Mr. Lyen has been super responsive to all my questions and the shipping took 1/2 as long as I thought it would. In the last 4 years I have used many different types of controllers from rc types, high dollar e bike controllers and very cheap controllers but this unit seems to have integrated the best of all into one box. Thanks to this forum and especially thanks to Mr. Lyen.

Jim Elder

[paulosgal]

hello Lyen,

the controller has arrived and seems fine, very well packaged.
I have a doubt in throttle connections:

Controller ----------- throttle

Red ----> Red
Green ----> White
black -----> Black

is this correct?

[crazyscow]

I pmed you

[Merlin]

..read the 12 pages now (was searching about the "real difference" about battery and current settings...

iam going with lipos 18s15Ah 25C.
so my question about current battery ---> my lipos can go easy 200Amps in this 18s3p setup.
max motor phase current i found everywhere <- thats the setting where the power comes.

i understand when i use lifepo or ion accus, the max battery current has to be safety for example to 30Amps
but as i read i use lipos. they dont care about 100amps in 3P setup.

at this moment i drive my bike with 70/70...because my battery can give easy 70amps
and i think the motor (HS3540) can give it to (just for a quick sprint...like 5 Seconds)

here i now read about voltage divide with amps and so on. maybe my englisch is not good enough to understand

Can someone tell me if
70/70 is okay or did i use something like that:
70/125
70/140
80/160

....

i tried 70 amps allready with 100v on cold day, just checking max speed with my bike. After a Sprint 20seconds i checked temps on controller and motor.
(it was really cold...some city acceleration getting more heat....maybe the topspeed 95kph give good cooling )

i just want to setup the controllers MAXIMUM Settings because i use a Cycle Analyst to set limits. (more easy to use laptop and cable)

thx,

[hjns]

Hi Merlin,

Well, it depends.

So, in theory, your lipos can deliver like 200A. However, in reality, at 18S 3P 15Ah, you will find that when the lipos need to provide 100A, the voltage of the packs will sag down to something lower than a sensible LVC. In other words, to keep your pack alive, it makes sense to set the low voltage cutoff (LVC) at 3.50V cell level. However, even with fully charged lipo cells (4.20V hot of charger/HoC at rest), under a 100A load, the cells will drop their voltage to lower than 3.50V. That means that if your LVC is set correctly, it will also limit the real-life voltage sag of your cells, thereby limiting the actual amount of current that you can draw.

In reality, your lipos will not have any issue with 70A. Voltage from HoC will sag maybe to 3.5/3.6V cell level. However, later, when the cells are a bit more discharged, your voltage has dropped to 3.7/3.8V cell level, and your voltage sag under load may hit LVC at 3.50V cell level when trying to deliver 70A.

Your HS3540 should be able to take 70A/140A (1:2 ratio) easily for short bursts. John in CR would probably recommend experimenting with different ratios to see how that works out for you. The safest way to find out is to insert a thermometer inside your HS and ensure that your motor doesn't fry. Going 70A battery current at 18S for 15 minutes will certainly fry your motor....

[Merlin]

thx hjns,

as i know youre using the ca3 too, iam sure you also know that the ca will reduce power when you reach the low voltage.
before i used the ca, i have lipo buzzers connected. on 50kph not really clear to hear. (costs me one pack)
also negative just using buzzers is that you can suck like 70amps till the cells die. the buzzer will whistle as hell but thats all.

on heavy loads (like 70-80amps) sure the voltage drop below (my personal) low voltage (3,5v each cell) and also sure without load the cell will
take a rest and comes again over/to 3,7/3,8v.

(thats what i NOT like, so iam really really happy that i have a cycle analyst that prevents my accus going under 3,5v/cell)

i go with 18s everytime. so HOC i have 75v ( i only charge to 4,17v max)
60-65amps will be ok for that controller i read.

the point i was searching for:
wheres the Limit of LYENs 12x4110 Extreme Modder Controller?
I just want to know where the absolute maximum peak under "perfect" conditions is...

i know that i have to be carefull about temps and high amps (melting phase and windigs)

(because iam always searching the limit of everything to know, and after that i go back to feel well settings....
like overclocking computers about 100%...or drag a motorcycle on 1/4mile (really searching for limits ;P)

but lets say for an example:

temps outside 5°C / 40°F
1,5km / 1,o mile
100kph / 60mph

so its a run in ONE MINUTE FULL LOAD
(dont think about smoked cables, lipos or motors)

did this controller give me 100Amps on 100v = 10KW for one Minute on Cold Conditions with Air cooling from 100kph?

its clear to me that no one can give me guarantee. but i dont have the experience about electric powered vehicles and components that i can say:

yes, i think the controller will do it.
or
omg try it and it will smoke after 10 seconds.

ask me about mechanical powered vehicles and i can say something

...and hey...i read here in ES more than once when something is critical....:
try it , film it, post it.....thats what i do on test runs all the time

who wants to see a 10KW 100kph run with a 12FET Controller on HS3540? ;D

honest. Please, if someone can tell me the maximum limit for that controller i will be happy.

[icecube57]

closer to 5-6kw...