Ebike motor/controller hall/phase/throttle tester $29

[Dieter]

Hello Lyen

Do you have any more of these tester available for sale or do you plan in getting more in the near future. I am in Canberra, ACT, Australia,
Thanks in advance

Dieter

[Lyen]

Hi Dieter,

Thanks for your interest in the ebike tester. Yes, I still do have it available. PM sent.

Best Regards,
Edward Lyen

Hello Lyen

Do you have any more of these tester available for sale or do you plan in getting more in the near future. I am in Canberra, ACT, Australia,
Thanks in advance

Dieter

[karma]

dude your killing me with all these toys

cheers

[RallySTX]

Hi Ed, just a heads up, I will probably be sending you a PM in a week or so for one.
Brian L.

[karma]

just came in works well thanks again

cheers

[Dieter]

Thanks Lyen. Tester arrived in safe and sound condition. Will now see if it can sort out the "stuttering" issue I have with my X408. Thanks again.

Dieter

[NeilP]

Procedure to test the motor phase wires.
1. Connect only the 3 phase wires from the motor to the tester, with the tester OFF.
2. Rotate the motor in forward position [Note. For MAC/CMA geared hub motor you need to rotate the wheel backwards]
3. Determine if all three LED lights blink on and off. If one or more LEDs do not light up then there may be a broken / open circuit phase wire. [Note. For MAC/CMA geared hub motor they may all light at once]
4. If all three LEDs blink, then verify if they blink in sequence. The sequence should be from left to right for forward motion/rotation.

So where is power coming from to light the LED's? is this an induced voltage...ie the motor acting as a generator?

Procedure to test the controller and throttle
1. Connect throttle to the controller
2. Connect the phase and hall wires from the controller to the tester
3. Connect the battery pack to the controller
4. Turn the tester ON
5. Verify the 5V led light is on in the centre of the circle of rotation LEDs. If the 5V LED is off then the controller is NOT supplying 5V to the motor hall sensors.
6. Verify the throttle LED is green. If the LED is not green or does not light then the throttle wires or hall sensor may be open or short circuit.
7. Slowly turn the throttle
8. Verify the throttle green LED turns off at about 1/2 throttle and lights up red at WOT. If the LED does not change colour then the throttle is faulty.
9. Verify the rotation LED lights are on and rotate [Note. a pair of opposing LEDs light at a time as they rotate]

My lights, ( with a Lyen 18 FE controller) only light when the throttle moves. As soon as you hold the throttle open in any position, the movement stops.
Is this correct?, or should they continue to rotate

[Lyen]

Update 2/24/2011: sale resumed

[jateureka]

I tried it on an 8FUN sensorless motor and it seemed that all LEDs light up when the wheel was rolled backwards but the blue phase didn't light up as much as the other two. Does that sound like it's still OK?

Can this also test a sensorless motor controller?

[Lyen]

I tried it on an 8FUN sensorless motor and it seemed that all LEDs light up when the wheel was rolled backwards but the blue phase didn't light up as much as the other two. Does that sound like it's still OK?

Can this also test a sensorless motor controller?

Hi Jateureka,

I have sent you a PM with solutions.

Best Regards,
Lyen

[wallypedal]

are these available yet?

[jateureka]

Just letting you know I had a controller that was frying throttles. I didn't know at the time and tested the throttle with the tester, found it faulty and so replaced it only to have it stop working a few minutes later. I hooked up my tester to the controller and it got fried too! Lucky for me it turned out to be the 5V regulator in the tester and after replacing that it worked fine again.

[Gordo]

edit; as requested

[oatnet]

Caution; There are errors in some previous posts in this tread as to which wires are located where on the tester. Or are there more than one version of this tester?

I've gotten several PMs from Gordo asking me to change the post where I posted Lyens Draft instructions. (2) other folks have already posted updated/revised instructions that mentions and addresses this issue, I don't have the tester in front of me, and since the issue is exceedingly minor I'm not really gonna add a todo to go check it and rewrite them.

As such, I have updated my post with the following disclaimer:

EDIT 8/1/11:

======================================================================
THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW ARE COPIED FROM THE DRAFT LYEN SENT ME.

USER "GORDO" WOULD LIKE EVERYONE TO KNOW THAT THE SECTION LABELED "WIRES" LISTS THEM OUT OF ORDER. IF FOR SOME REASON YOU STOPPED READING THIS THREAD AT THIS POST, PLEASE CONTINUE ON TO THE REVISED INSTRUCTIONS (3) POSTS DOWN.

AS WITH ANY TECHNICAL ANALYSIS, I'D HIGHLY SUGGEST READING TO THE LAST POST OF THE THREAD TO GET THE MOST COMPLETE AND CURRENT INFORMATION. NOBODY IS GONNA HOLD YOU HAND AND SPOON FEED THE INFORMATION TO YOU, SO DO YOUR HOMEWORK OR TOAST YOUR BUILD.
======================================================================

[jateureka]

Even this idiot could figure out how to turn it on if the switch was labeled "ON/OFF" not Power /.nothing.

On my tester the power switch is marked: with a 'dot' for OFF and a 'glowing dot' for ON, as per the picture in KIWI's post on page 2. To me this makes more sence than I/O

[Gordo]

edit; as requested

[NeilP]

I always thoughtvit was more a 'logic' thing
1 being signal high or On
0 being signal low or Off

in the dawn of computers, when they were faceless boxes with no screen or keyboard, they were programmed with a series of switches in binary. strings of 1 & 0
When the switch was On and a "1" was being programmed, a light also.came on so the switch positions could be checked by comparing light sequence with what was on paper

Maybe this convention came from before then, but, this is how I always remember it when I see a switch labelked like that

[Gordo]

edit; as requested

[jonathanm]

it's 1/0 (one / zero) not I/O (eye / oh).

If it was Ein/Aus it would E/A, surely. Anyway German for one is eins with an s on the end.

source: lived in Germany and married one of em.

[NeilP]

Ah ok when you wrote

[
./ ?

I took it as
.|
and that the smilie and question mark were just part of your message

I have a tester like this also and as the battery worked fine from what I remember, I did not siffer the same as you, I just flicked the switch and started using ig

[alsmith]

-Mine was the same- it worked straight out of the box. But it's a chinese made battery with no expiry date, usually no capacity rating is shown on the battery or the makers site, so first stop is the bin- the only batteries that I've had leakage problems with for many years now are this kind.

This tester is probably in a toolbox most of the time so there's a chance of leakage damage (Like everyone I know I don't remove batteries from equipment not used for long periods despite manufacturers small print warnings in instruction manuals) so the cheap battery goes and a better brand name one used.

[ohzee]

just paid for one look forward to it - nice product nice price thanks.

[Lyen]

Hi Ohzee,

Thank you for your purchase. I have just shipped your tester at the local post office. The tracking number has been placed on your PayPal account.

Best Regards,
Lyen

just paid for one look forward to it - nice product nice price thanks.

[Floont]

I just purchased a controller tester from you using my wife's PayPal account.

Of course, I shipped my damaged Lyen controller to you about 2 weeks ago and also purchased another identical controller from you. So, I'm looking forward to testing this product.

[sol_schr]

Hello,

Are there any of these testers left?

Thanks.

9/1/2011 PayPal Payment Sent

Thanks.

Greg