Crystalyte 5404 / 5403 UPGRADED! LAST CALL

[Tincan]

Glad you exposed this whole sham Tincan but you shoulda left the picture as original when he just had one finger showing and his ill gotten booty of money in the van.

I was tempted to change the finger to the middle....

[methods]

Ok - I feel better now.
Photoshop skillz!

-methods

[oldhaq]

would you like cracked pepper with that??

You must be going to nice restaurants... where I can afford to eat they only ask "for here or to go?"

I love that photo shop... someone please make it better.

-methods

you might get a chuckle here, a bit lame compared to some of their other antics tho.

[Hobbit]

[SkyCaptain]

Just standing by for the parcel man to bring me my two big dick motors. I really hope he is not wearing a frock. (especially funny, because my boss is chinese and scared of australian big dicks)


Thanks to all involved in making this happen.
Especially Hyena, who always answered my emails and kept me calm and at ease through out!. I felt like I was in really good hands!.



Hey, what plugs are these motors shipped with on the phase wires?
And next question, can anybody please let me know where I could buy six of the suitable plugs at a reasonable price?

Thanks.

[Nanoha]

Just standing by for the parcel man to bring me my two big dick motors. I really hope he is not wearing a frock. (especially funny, because my boss is chinese and scared of australian big dicks)


Thanks to all involved in making this happen.
Especially Hyena, who always answered my emails and kept me calm and at ease through out!. I felt like I was in really good hands!.



Hey, what plugs are these motors shipped with on the phase wires?
And next question, can anybody please let me know where I could buy six of the suitable plugs at a reasonable price?

Thanks.

It comes with the giant 75 amp anderson power poles

I usually get mine from http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-power ... pole-sets/

[Hyena]

yeah they have the giant 75a andsons. I'd piss them off and fit 4mm bullets, they're sufficient and around a 3rd the size.

[wojtek]

i replaced with XT150 but i think 5.5mm would also be enough... i like to put more than it is needed

4mm? how much of current is runnng through those 3 phase wires at continuous 50A-60A , 100v peak ? same as from battery to the controller? [what i see on the CA]

[Handyhappy1]

I would like to keep those 75a powerpole connectors if possible. Can anyone give me suggestions how to make a bracket to hold the connectors to the bike that will not interfere with the rear suspension or pedals

[Hyena]

4mm? how much of current is runnng through those 3 phase wires at continuous 50A-60A , 100v peak ? same as from battery to the controller? [what i see on the CA]

Phase current is often multiplied so probably higher, but the phase wire gauge is probably more a limitation than the connector in this case.
I run 18S at 6kw peak currently so similar power levers to what you're talking and the connectors aren't noticably any warmer than the phase wires. The 25C 5ah lipo packs I use also have these 4mm bullets (with 10ga wire) so I guess they're supposedly got for 125a ?

But yeah, it doesn't hurt to go bigger if you're running big power through them. The housing on the 75a andersons are novelty size though IMO.

I would like to keep those 75a powerpole connectors if possible. Can anyone give me suggestions how to make a bracket to hold the connectors to the bike that will not interfere with the rear suspension or pedals

I use specialised flexible nylon ones like THESE

[Handyhappy1]

lol good one...specialized. I also had those "specialized" flexible brackets in mind. Perhaps I can put one connector above the rear wheel bar, one below it and one on the wheel spoke side. This way it will not interfere with the pedals. The 30a powerpoles were much easier to keep out of the way.
My lipopack is a 21s 4p 45 c nano tech configuration. I chose this configuration because of the 90v max that the Kelly controller is rated for. (I actually found the max is 87.6v) I also have the removable trailer with a 72v lifepo4 40ah pack for my long distance diving
With my old Kelly 72601 I have seen a max of 194a and 10450w on my ca. (Is it any wonder I smoked those hs motors?) My new kelly keb 72101 could easilly see those numbers continuous. It is adjustable though and I do not want to overheat the new 5404. I will lower the current to probably half of the maximum...lets see 450/2=225

[Philistine]

Delivery man just turned up now with my monstor motor of doom. This is one seriously Mandingo sized motor. My 24 Fet controller is trembling at the prospects of what I intend to unleash.

Huge thanks goes to Mr Asia and all his hard work on getting this bad boy to me, very, very grateful.

[deepfraught]

Does anyone feel like the Coyote when he catches the Road Runner, now that they have the 5403/4 and the chase is over, they don't know what to do with it? =D
Very impressive effort, echoing above comments of appreciation.

[Hobbit]

Well I DO feel like coyote, but more like when he's just opened a box from the ACME company and pulled out a rocket propelled skateboard...

[SkyCaptain]

So it has been a week or so.
Has anyone actually powered up their motor yet?
I noticed the yanks who got their motors a week or so ago still havent put any results up,(except for the stipped nuts!)


Also, I noticed the phase wires are exactly the same thickness as the phase wires on my little 5304
Were they supposed to be thicker? Did clyte just screw us all?
And of course, where the phase wires exit, the little plastic thing is all just wrong.
How do they assemble something so wrong and still ship it out.

Anyway, I will wait for you smarter guys to work out the solutions to get this motor fitted and running!.

Best Regards
Andrew

[Andje]

I actually just got mine running, but it's not in a rim yet, and I don't have a video. I bet it will be working on the bike before the weekend though

[SkyCaptain]

lol, I actually measured the phase wire thickness/outside diameter of my (not running) 5304 compared to my new 5404's.
lol, the phase wire on my 5404's is actually nearly 1mm thinner! than my 5304 phase wires.
(of course I was just measuring the outside diameter, so maybe there is a variation in the plastic insulation)

I am not having a go at anyone who had anything to do with helping us all have these new exciting motors.
I am having a go a Clyte.
(and I may have missed somewhere along the line that the thicker phase wires were maybe not included in the end)

So, where the phase wires exit, how are you guys dealing with that? The way they sort of stick out a fair bit.
I have the guy next door to my work making up a few thick "c" washers I guess you would call them.
So the frame will touch press on the washer, and not squash the phase wires.
Only thing is if I am making that side around 12mm wider by adding the thick "c" washer to protect the phase wires from being squashed on the frame, then I am thinking it will no longer fit in my frame, or it will be way off center.

I am one of the lucky ones, as I have a 135mm and a 150mm motor here.

Hmm, the rim looks nice and strong.

[Philistine]

I got my 5404 going tonight on my Greyborg. I took it out for a quick spin. It pulls hard and has that nice smooth ride I find my 5303 used to have, and it definately pulls like a train. But unfortunately before I could get anything like a top speed or anything to report, I suddenly had a failure. Unfortunately I suspect one of two things, it is either a blown hall (please baby jesus don't be that), or else I may have slightly crushed and shorted the phase wires into each other enough to get an intermittend short, where they exit the axle. The way the wires exit the axle is ridiculous, and when I look down at it I can see that when I tightened my nuts, wires look quite a bit compressed inside the stupid little plastic thingy that covers them. But it is late tonight, and a mate of mine has borrowed my ebike tester so I won't know until tomorrow what my fate is. I am praying it is not a blown hall as I have still to succesfully replace the halls in my 5303 despite four failed attempts.

But here is a quick mobile phone photo of it in all its monstrous ludicrousness. The silver of it is giving a reflection of the flash, I think I will paint it black when I troubleshoot the problem. It weighs the same as a small house.

There is definately some QC issues on the build quality, for example two of my disc brake mount holes were not tapped properly, so that the screws don't go in. And as I said, my tip to punters yet to install theirs is to be really really careful about the plastic plug that the wires exit through, and making sure that you don't crush the wires inside it.

[methods]

This is the name of the game boys. Nobody panic

When we do a special order for a custom motor little things like this ALWAYS come up.
** ALWAYS **
The key is to be patient and let some clever fool find a good fix - wont be long I am sure. I have gone through this many time and it always seems like a nightmare at first and it always ends up to be a non-issue after a week or two.

As far as the wire gauge - dont worry about that either. Reality is that you can run 6awg but as soon as it gets inside the hub it is breaking out to tiny phase wires. The insulation is very high temperature teflon so just cut them short (near the axle) and use good high quality connectors. The 8" or so of smaller gauge wire wont change performance at all - maybe 5W out of 5KW so 1/10th of 1% power loss.

I am absolutely positive this situation will work out such that by the time most guys get their hubs laced everything will be tits.

-methods

[SkyCaptain]

Hi Methods.
Thanks for you calming words of wisdom.

Yes, I am trying to keep a possitive attitude.

I must admit I am really panicing!.
I have been trying to fix my 5304 for 3 or so months now. Everything checks out on it, runs until it comes to a stop, then will not go again until I re plug the batt in), yes, tried like 3 different batts and controllers all from working setups.

So was kind of excited to get these new 5404's thinking they would be a fully sorted out motor since you guys on here had an input into its specs. But obviously Clyte just does what they want once they have your money.


I am now thinking to sell at least one of mine if not both if I can get what what I paid for them.
Just the fact they came with thinner phase wire than my not running 5304, and the way the wires exit the hub just looks impossible for me to fit to any of my 5 bikes. (yes yes, I know, as another member pointed out to me) I obviously shouldnt be trying to do this ebike DIY) with my limited knowledge.

I have 3 Golden motor hubs here, all 7 years years old with lots of abuse and use and all working perfectly,
Yet I have 3 clyte motors here, one does'nt run, the other 2 are these new 5404's which just look like trouble to me.

(can you tell I am feeling a bit sad about all this lol)

But, I must admit that Methods is most likely correct. Probably in a week or so some of you more engineery guys will work out a solution for where the phase wires exit, and all will be dandy.

Best Regards
Andrew

[Philistine]

Just the fact they came with thinner phase wire than my not running 5304

My 5404 has what looks to me like 12 guage teflon phase wires. My 5304 and 5303 have way thinner phase wires, like maybe 14, but substantially thinner.

[Rustedhen]

Check your anderson connectors before installing as I had one of the phase wires to the motor fall out of the connector. Crimp was no good so I soldered it back in.

Threw away the plastic cap that went over the motor wires cause there was no way that was ever going to work. Just aligned the wires with the dropout slot and nothing appears to be getting crushed. Have yet to power it up though.

Public holiday today here in OZ so good chance to get some more stuff done on the bike

[SkyCaptain]

Yep.
I have the 3 motors here.
I measured with my cheap vernier gauge.
My phase wire on my standard 5304 is approx 3.9mm thick outside diamter, and on my 5404's it is only approx 3.1mm thick.

Hmm, not that it is a major issue. Like methods explained, it breaks into thinner wire soon as it gets inside the hub anyway.
In fact the way the wires exit the hub, if they put thicker wires on mine it would only compound the problem of it not having enough space.

Hey, sorry to hear you motor has already died on it's first ride "philistine"

That I guess is my concern, so far, the only news I know of about these motors, is 2 of them having stripped axles, and yours "philistines" that stopped working on the first ride.
Someone here did say they powered it up without a rim and it runs.
But I get the feeling as we all start to fit these motors, we will all either have stripped axles,shorted phase wires because of the stupidity of the people who made the motors, or blown halls.

Not such a big issue to fix all of the above if you have the skills.
For me, someone who doesnt have the skills, big trouble.

[Andje]

Yeah i got mine powered up without the rim, today I laced the rim up and got the whole thing mounted. I still have some work on my dropouts to do but I should have a vid of it up and running tomorrow .
As you say, line the wires up with the droupout slot and you have no worries. I'll say that the motor doesn't require dishing as far as I can tell; it's centered really well in my 150mm dropouts.

My spoke calcs;

5403 rim.PNG (14.46 KiB) Viewed 419 times

158's went in like a glove. I'm using a mavic 721 dh rim.

[Rustedhen]

Hey took the Stinky out for a run.

Far from complete got a lot of tidying up to do but the 5404 ran fine. Put 75v 50amps through it (stock controller settings) and about 4ah worth of riding round the back streets. Was just going to take it round the block but got carried away

Couldn't easily fit a rear disc brake so was wondering if I hook a button up for ebraking will regen (or at least motor braking) work at 75-80v on a crystalyte controller or will mods have to be made. Front brakes started squeeling with all the extra weight (time for new pads I think)

Work in progress

Clamping dropouts