Nice bike light on ebay 24-90V 12w 29.99U$

[chroot]

Your pictures seems isn't good enough lumen except hot spot without flood area?

When I finish with my moving new place and I will show you my solarforce L2P flashlight beamshot pictures. I drilled a hole on the L2P tube body and wired to the LYEN DC-DC (84v to 4.2v). Darn too bright mix thrower-flood (rough about 1600 lumens) meaning I have excellent visibility easy catch the potholes ahead and more safety while speeding 40mph at night time. I work for UPS everyday at 3am.

Sent from my Tbolt smartphone using Endless Sphere app

[Scruffoid]

Your pictures seems isn't good enough lumen except hot spot without flood area?

When I finish with my moving new place and I will show you my solarforce L2P flashlight beamshot pictures. I drilled a hole on the L2P tube body and wired to the LYEN DC-DC (84v to 4.2v). Darn too bright mix thrower-flood (rough about 1600 lumens) meaning I have excellent visibility easy catch the potholes ahead and more safety while speeding 40mph at night time. I work for UPS everyday at 3am.

Sent from my Tbolt smartphone using Endless Sphere app

So how much did It cost you? Where are the actual real calibrated lumen test that verify the luimen rating as per the standard.

The pictures shown above are with the light facing to much down in my opinion there is other photos that show the beam pattern better if you read the rest of the post.

If you have a good light for a good price then start a thread on so we can all find them easy enough later on. But please give some more details rather than my light is better than yours.

Sorry if i sound harsh but everywhere you go every single person you see says what sort of light is that on your bike, so you tell em and then they say yeah mine rated at 10000000000 lumens so its heaps better than yours. It might just be better but this light is very bright. Can take a wide voltage inpuot range. 24V-90V so it runs off pack voltages and stright from teh AUX voltage plug on the CA that most of us have. No DC-DC convertor required, and it only cost $30 delivered to your door. If there is more of them out there like it then ill buy them as well. I love bike lights. I'm already running 4 lights on my ride

Scruff

[rui_fujino]

More about how you mounted it please

i'll take some detailed pictures tomorrow

Here are how I've mount it. It maybe hard to see but all i did was, Bent the original mount and used metal zip ties to clamp on to the stem.

[rui_fujino]

I've realised my CA shows -ve reading when I turn the light on...does anyone know why?
also I was wondering if I pulled this yellow wire out by accident or its suppose to be like this?

[NeilP]

As you have found , the supplied 'mount' is crap.
Even the holes do not line up ..it is just an off cut of stainless steel..utter shit..but the lights are good.

No idea about the yellow wire

But yes, the CA goes down and that is correct..the power is coming through the shunt on the bike, and the CA displays current flowing through the shunt. it probably reads about 0.25 ?

edit , just thought, does your CA have the separate speed sensor, the magnet sensor on the front wheel and not pick up the speed from the hub.

if o then that wire is probably the pulse sender for speed if you ditched the remote sender and used the speed sending from the hall pulses

[NeilP]

Yep I am right...

last page of the CA manual

http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain/CA_Large_V223_Web.pdf

Screen shot 2012-06-03 at 20.02.15.png (59.97 KiB) Viewed 439 times

[rui_fujino]

As you have found , the supplied 'mount' is crap.
Even the holes do not line up ..it is just an off cut of stainless steel..utter shit..but the lights are good.

No idea about the yellow wire

But yes, the CA goes down and that is correct..the power is coming through the shunt on the bike, and the CA displays current flowing through the shunt. it probably reads about 0.25 ?

edit , just thought, does your CA have the separate speed sensor, the magnet sensor on the front wheel and not pick up the speed from the hub.

if o then that wire is probably the pulse sender for speed if you ditched the remote sender and used the speed sending from the hall pulses

yea it reads around -0.26~ -0.28 which is annoying because it means It also tells me my regen is increasing when I use more light....
and I do have the magnet sensor but it does not pick up the speed from the hub.

[NeilP]

Umm odd, it should not show regen current, it should show current drain

I have wired lights to both my bikes, via the CA, and they both show current drain when on, not regen

If you havd regen showing when light comes on, then something wrong with where yourself or someone else has wired something

[Scruffoid]

I went through this as well. not to sure where i put the details. I think there is a topic on ES on this.

It is to do with the location of the sensing wires adn the fact that they arent located at teh shunt. I had the move my shunt sensing wire so that it was at teh shunt instead of further in teh curcuit.

If you email Justin he can lead you to a picture or something about where to move the wires to.

Ill go look now and see if i can find the post my one is a different controller to yours thou.

Scruff

[NeilP]

Scruff, I understand exactly what you mean, but wonder if you are not talking about changing the position of the sense wires from the stock wiring from an Xlyte controller fitted with a plug for their own brand APM ( the Xlyte CA)

It all depends on what Rui is seeing when the bike runs , if it works correctly under heavy motor load and not under light load, it is unlikely that this is the problem in this case.

I could be wrong though,

[Scruffoid]

here is where we where talking about it.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=38353

Scruff.

I think Justin has told the makers where to place the wires but they arent doing it. I guess they dont really need to LOL. it only became an issue once we started using the AUX voltage plug as normally you just zero the current reading and the CA draws the same current every time. Now we are changing the current draw on teh fly the the wrong wiring shows up.

On my controller the sense wire was tied together with another Voltage line so it was sensing in the wrong spot and once i move it to the shunt and re zerod the CA it worked properly and went positive.

[NeilP]

Yes,that makes more sense..and one of the other thoughts I had after I posted last, but could not think of to post when I last posted...at 0330 while in bed from the iPhone...

It is to do with the location of the sensing wires and the fact that they arent located at the shunt. I had the move my shunt sensing wire so that it was at teh shunt instead of further in the circuit.

Scruff

You were almost correct..it is not the sense wire, but the power feed to the CA that is in the wrong position. If the sense wires were in the wrong position, the CA would not give any sensible reading, as all the CA does to measure current, is measure the voltage drop across the sense wires and then convert this to current , knowing the shunt resistance.

SO it is not the shunt sense wire you need to move, it is the main power feed to the CA from the board. make sure you get it on the correct side of the power switch though, otherwise the CA will stay on when controller is switched off

[Scruffoid]

LOL no worries took a guess what it was called.

[Architectonic]

RE: mounts, I used this:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/bicycle-bi ... 16?item=38 ($6.50 metal camera mount)

In general I find this light is more usable than my Trustfire TR-3T6 torch (has three cree XM-L LEDs, and 3x 18650, torch lens), and I was sick of loose plastic mounts that flex too much. (maybe there is some sort of gun mount that might work for 0.5 KG torches).

[rocwandrer]

Anybody tried one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/?cmd=ViewItem&item=160938728364 ?

The listing is terrible (e-packet delivery, a parts list that doesn't include the driver, etc), but the product pictures look decent for the money, and the driver supposedly accepts 24-90v input...

I have two decent lights already (always have a backup at night in the woods, I've been hit by deer twice, and on a moonless night with no light, walking speed is still a little iffy without any lights). Running a light off the primary battery pack is appealing in that then there is some stealth in the fact that there is a reason for running wiring. What do other people end up with for this? A magicshine type light with a step down for the voltage?

Edit: this post was made (without adequate searching, evidently) as a new thread, and moderated into this thread, hence the incongruity.

[Icewrench]

Those 12 watt lights are very bright.
They can run straight off pack voltage as there is a dc to dc built in

There is another thread about these somewhere .

[grindz145]

Wow that looks pretty badass.

[GCinDC]

needed another so searched for this and found one w/ another clamp for US $19.99:
Motorcycle Motor Car PMMA Lens Led Head Light Super White Eectric of 12W 12-90V

we'll see...

[Hyena]

Interesting. Is it just me or does that have a longer heat sink section ?
I like the driver on that one, it'd be nice to find a seperate source of those (not that I've looked)

I actually just ordered a new light for my new commuter last night as it's getting dark here now. I noticed that above style are now available with a 3 mode driver circuit (high, low strobe) which is nice. There's also a zooming model and another single T6 model one with a round projector style glass optic.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/led-head-lig ... 232980a18f

I went for higher powered LEDS this time though, this bad boy has 4x XML T6s and is not a much more expensive. In terms of light output, throw etc I'm sure I'd be better off with 4x individual magic shine type lights with the larger reflector area but that takes up too much handlebar realestate.
I'm sure this one will suffice for commuting duties

[heathyoung]

Those drivers are readily available and cheap...

Eg. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10W-12V-LED- ... 43a9f103f0

Just search FeePay for 10W LED Driver and you will find - heaps. I'm using a cheapie to run my magicshine XM-L direct to the LED when I bitchslapped the internal driver with 60V (stupid DC:DC converter).

[Hyena]

Do you use that exact one Heath ?
The one in Gregs link claims input voltage of 12-90v with an output of 7v 1.4a
Your one is higher voltage AC input and spitting out lower current DC output.
I know alot of those 85v+ AC input circuits will run off lower DC voltage (I'm running an AC adaptor on a rear cree flasher that doesn't cut out when my 18S pack is nearly flat at ~65v) but I need a fair bit of current to run 4x T6s effectively. I'm not sure what driver this light uses or how much current it draws but I imagine the supplied 2S3P 18650 battery could put out ~8A. Presumably the emitters are wired 2S2P if running off 8v and so could probably draw 5A if the housing allowed sufficient cooling.
(I have a single emitter T6 torch at home that I direct drive off a single 18650 and it draws about 2.5A so ~9w)

[Architectonic]

we'll see...

I'm definitely interested, let us know if it is any good.

[knighty]

I've already got one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390569930300? ... 1439.l2649

and I've just ordered another for my 2nd bike

runs directly from my 24s headway pack


it'#s crazy bright... I have it pointing right down so the focal point is on the floor about 2 foot in front of the bike so I don't blind car drivers... and off road it still lights up most of a field like that

[lifepo4ever]

but a 1000 real lumens is more of what everybody need on the road and i use a deal extreme flashlite and it can blow a beam at 500 feet

[its_me_jason]

Hi everybody I'm glad I found this thread. I bought these two lights below and surprisingly 5 high power cree leds with the small collimator at 6000 lumens was not that much brighter then one high power cree with the large collimator at 1200 Lumens.

dsc_0044_1.jpg (14.97 KiB) Viewed 149 times

mylight.jpg (79.71 KiB) Viewed 149 times

I got the 1 cree for $20
and the 5 cree for $33 <---i got lucky here i think with the price.