Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, Sold Out

[zombiess]

My axle is different from the new ones so I doubt anything i did to make mymotor fit will help you much, my rear swing arm is custom as well. Sorry I don't understand you questions. I can take pictures and measurements when i get them if that will help you.

For now the only questions I can really answer is that on the disc brake side the shoulder the threaded axle goes into is 24.4mm wide and the freewheel side is 19.5mm wide.

If by pancake do you mean does it bend? No it does not. I use C washers on the disc brake side to center my wheel and a single washer on the freewheel side to prevent it from binding. My swing arm is nothing like a regular bikes an I always need to do different things to make motors fit. I had to use all kinds of washers to get my 9C motor to fit and center correctly.

[HAL9000v2.0]

@hillzofvalp: I must say I don't understand the question. With 1,6mm (o,o635") pin you can secure only nut. Can you make a sketch or some picture with your idea.
Is this what you have in mind?

[hillzofvalp]

I'm talking about putting a pin at the axle shoulder, so that the pin effectively becomes an extension of the shoulder. I'm talking about a solid heat treated pin that won't bend

[John in CR]

I'm talking about putting a pin at the axle shoulder, so that the pin effectively becomes an extension of the shoulder. I'm talking about a solid heat treated pin that won't bend

Weakening the axle with a hole for a pin at exactly the location where it needs to be strongest would be a mistake, a big one.

[ZOMGVTEK]

With nordlock's, the axle nuts maintained proper torque on my GM.

Now I'm running clamping dropouts and they take 3kW of regen into 10kW no problem. Thick, tight fitting, clamping dropouts are a vastly better solution for high power regen.

[hillzofvalp]

I'm not worried about nut torque here. I'm worried about shoulder leverage under tension against my buttery-soft cromoly dropouts. I just had my 9C axle shoulder completely smear and then wedge apart my fork ends. THis is because of the small surface area and material types. Even the axle shoulder itself is starting to smear back! I just need a more reliable way to increase shoulder surface area than a washer that eventually will flatten and flake out on me

I use nord locks and have been happy with them.

More appropriately to this thread: Where's my cromotor!

[zombiess]

More appropriately to this thread: Where's my cromotor!

As of this afternoon, it's in my garage awaiting my own quick QC and a repacking for shipment. Need to source some 16mm nuts locally, I'll see if I can find someone who has them in stock tomorrow if they are open. I'll be letting everyone know by email that has contacted me what's up, just give me a few days to sort things out and I will have them ready to ship next week. Things have been crazy for me the last week.

[hillzofvalp]

post pics when u have time!

BTW what pitch of M16 are these axles? 2mm?

[oatnet]

I'm not worried about nut torque here. I'm worried about shoulder leverage under tension against my buttery-soft cromoly dropouts. I just had my 9C axle shoulder completely smear and then wedge apart my fork ends. THis is because of the small surface area and material types. Even the axle shoulder itself is starting to smear back! I just need a more reliable way to increase shoulder surface area than a washer that eventually will flatten and flake out on me

I use nord locks and have been happy with them.

I'm not really understanding what you are describing by smear and wedge... Pics maybe... Are you using Nord Locks instead of torque arms?

[hillzofvalp]

I'm using both. The shoulder is the part of the axle where the flat meets the large OD of the majority of the axle. This area makes contact with frame.. When tightened down, it tears apart dropouts. Mayb I'm tightening too much. Every couple rides I gave the nuts each up to 1/16 turn.maybe with nord locks I should just leave things alone? Hopefully the larger contact patch of the 16mm shoulder will make this less of a problem.

[zombiess]

I'll be sending out emails in the next day or two with instructions and info. I'm going through the motors and repacking them starting tomorrow with the help of my lovely wife. It's going to take us a while to get these repacked well. I'm also waiting for the 16mm nuts to come before I ship the motors out as I'm pretty sure most of you would like nuts included. I also ordered some washers for the freewheel side which are used to prevent it from binding when tightened down. The only thing I don't have yet are custom made c washers which ill be selling at a later date (should be soon) after I have them made. These will help those who need to space out their drop outs. I should have some pictures to post tomorrow of everything and measurements. Did a quick spin up under power of one of the motors tonight, nice and smooth, plan is to check most if not every single motor if time allows. I'd like to start shipping Friday assuming everything is here (nuts and washers) and ready to go.

24-48hrs and you should have an email from me with directions on paying me.

Thanks for your patience

Jeremy

[Alan B]

Congrats Jeremy, on the new wife and the arrival of the long awaited motors.

I sure could use some C washers for mine as well.

hillzofvalp, perhaps you could direct interested parties to your thread with your dropout problem, which has nothing to do with cromotors. The xlyte's tiny shoulders and small flats are a different problem. I really wonder if those dropouts are cromoly, they look too soft for that, perhaps you should consult a metal expert and make some measurements to see if they are the proper steel or something else altogether.

Back to my Cromotor, one of the last batch, I'm going to need washers on both sides, about 2.5mm thick, and "C" would be fine. I'm getting very close to putting this whole Greyborg together, so the "C" washers are going to be needed soon, though I'll do something temporary if needed. Take the time to get these right, don't rush them.

[hillzofvalp]

Alan, the "dropout problem" was about whether or not the axle of the cromotor could take a pin. Next time I'll start a new thread, but I received enough guidance here. If you would like to comment further on the issue, see my footer.

I am very much anticipating this motor. I'm debating whether I should even bother installing thermistors in the motor. Definitely on my 12FET.

[Alan B]

I did read the posts on the pin questions and never did understand clearly what you wanted to do. A drawing is required for clarity, and a separate thread or PM to Hal is probably a good plan. A good friend of mine is a mechanical engineer and he would refuse to answer a verbal or written question such as this because most of the time the two parties actually had different views of what they were talking about and the result was a severe miscommunication that caused major problems later on. I have experienced that lately with some folks on electronics questions. So it is best not to ask or answer questions that way. It just results in frustration and people get angry over it.

With the wide shoulders on the motor, good washers, and the large flats on these motors, they are not really comparable to the Xlytes. You might want to do a calculation on what was going on with your dropouts - measure the cross section, torque, thread pitch and compute the forces that were distorting them. Might shed some light on why they were deforming and whether it was reasonable for the material. I don't know where your frame was made, but someone recently told me that China doesn't generally have Cromoly steel. It is just not something they generally have available. So they might use something else. Perhaps the tubes are Cromoly and the dropouts are something else. The fact that the axle was deforming similar or less than the dropouts, and the axle is probably not Cromoly might indicate the dropouts are not either.

In any case, good dropouts are important with powerful hubmotors, but larger axles and flats helps, and the Cromotor has these. Of course these larger axles do make some standard parts like "C" washers not fit so we do need some extra parts to make things work.

[zombiess]

Updated the first post with some new pictures and info.

[hillzofvalp]

Do you think that it would be ok if I faced off about 2-4mm of the threaded portion of freewheel side so I don't have to jam washers in And avoid flexing my frame open?

[zombiess]

Do you think that it would be ok if I faced off about 2-4mm of the threaded portion of freewheel side so I don't have to jam washers in And avoid flexing my frame open?

I dont think that would be an issue as long as your freewheel wasnt very thick. All my 16 tooth fw's are about flush with the end of the threads and still need a washer.

[Alan B]

Today I tested a freewheel washer with a Dicta freewheel on my Cromotor which is from the last batch, purchased in December. I found that the freewheel was touching a shoulder on the motor, and that it is very nearly flush with the end of the threaded portion. So no spacer is needed on mine. I thought a spacer was needed but it turns out that was at a slightly larger diameter, and the shoulder was already contacting the freewheel.

It may be different with the new batch of motors, but on mine there is no value in trimming the threaded portion as the freewheel is already just slightly wider and sticks out a fraction of a mm beyond the threads.

[chroot]

Hi zombiess, I am going send it out money for 2 motors tomorrow once I recieve the money from my friend.

[Sigma]

Hey, I've sent you an email 2 days ago about ordering a motor after you sent that email, still haven't heard anything back yet :S, sorry you must be busy with all of this. Just wanted to make sure you got my email.

[zombiess]

Replied to everyone tonight and sent invoices for those who contacted me.

[Sigma]

Thx got your email/invoice and paid.

[hillzofvalp]

Yay... Do I need brass washers for the bicycle eyelets if I'm using 13-14g spokes?

[zombiess]

Yay... Do I need brass washers for the bicycle eyelets if I'm using 13-14g spokes?

It's going to depend on the spoke head size. The holes were drilled to accommodate up to 12 gauge spokes. A 13/14 is probably OK, but I'm not a wheel builder so I can't say yes for sure.

[zombiess]

I'm waiting on hardware to show up to include with the motors. Just found out it should be here today or tomorrow. Current paid motor orders should ship out on Monday if that is the case. I will send tracking numbers to you when they ship.