Electric Kart build

frodus

10 kW
Joined
Mar 3, 2008
Messages
820
Location
Portland, OR
So, my business has been selling quite a few of the Motenergy and Sevcon packages, and I've come to need my own vehicle as a test bench. A motorcycle is too limiting for easy change of a motor, so I started looking at Karts. I wanted an offroad kart, but they take up a lot of room and I'd need a trailer. Then I found a nice Race Kart near me that was super cheap and didn't have an engine...... and I bought it. It was in great shape and he threw in a Kart stand, Engine mount and a race computer.

So I'm documenting the build here (and my personal project site http://excessive.engineering/).

The kart:
Swiss Hutless Race Kart (Hydraulic disk brakes, adult size)

The drivetrain:
Motor: I'll start with an ME1507, then an ME1304 and finally try an Zero 75-7 High Temp I'm getting
Controller: Sevcon Gen4 Size 6 for now, but I've got a Size 4 coming that I'd like to also test

Battery: I found some Saft VL41M batteries for sale and I couldn't turn it down. Working on getting these delivered now. I'm thinking I'll try to pack as many as I can and do at least 2p. The cells have a 150A continuous and 300A for 30s rating, so that would be 300A continuous and 600A for 30s if I did 2p. I'd like to get as close to 72V as I can, but ultimately it depends on how many fit on the chassis. They're large cylindrical, 41Ah LiIon batteries. About 8.75" tall and 2.2" in diameter with screw terminals for connection to buss bar. They weigh about 2.35lbs each.

BMS: Thinking about ZEVA V3 BMS, one for each side.

Motor Mount: I'm getting 2 of them to test. The other will be used as a bench motor-mount.
1) Original Kart Engine mount + Manta 2 Motenergy Base Plate from eBay
2) Kartmasters.fr kart mounting plate. Made to bolt onto the kart and motor without modification

Sprockets:
Motor: Amp 428 pitch 11T 7/8" sprocket
Axle: 28T 40mm hub 428 pitch aluminum to replace the 40mm hub and 219 pitch sprocket that is on there now

Display: Sevcon Clearview for now, but working on something else.

Charger: Offboard DeltaQ QuiQ programmed for Lithium.

Other items:
Contactor: LEV200
Wiring harness: EMF-Power Sevcon Harness
DC-DC: Sevcon 500W for powering BMS and any other LV things I need. I may eliminate this and use a small 12V pack.


I'm trying to use as much of the items I currently offer at www.emf-power.com, so they get some extra testing, and people can see how reliable they are in practice. Plus, I can make tweaks and test for people much more easily.

Pics:

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Here's a ME1507 setting on the frame for reference:
20180612_215825.jpg


Here's a ME1304 setting on the Engine mount for reference:
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Engine mount:
20180612_215321.jpg
 
Really nice setup, I've been looking for a motor mount for my ME1616 (W/C ME1507) for a similar kart project, was hoping to avoid getting one fabricated

I received the DLD and the DCF file a while ago for the ME1507 from John at Motenergy if you need it.

Can't wait to see it running, I feel as though we need our own EV kart league for motors around the 40-60kw range :twisted:
 
Thanks! I personally think the 1616 is too big for a kart. Maybe it'd fit something bigger well, but it's a huge ass motor and like 50lbs give or take.

(I have the files from Motenergy/Sevcon too, but I have better files that work a little more consistently if you need em).
 
I'll keep that in mind for the mount, might have to get one fabricated, though over in the UK there isn't many people who will do one off jobs.

Yeah I decided to go with the 1616 after talking with Nuxland, I'm going for the 50kw range and didn't want to fall into the same pitfall as Nuxland, his motor temps doing a few races hit 130c and he had to pull back from the race to avoid damage, and that was just keeping up with the shifter karts. The ME1507 is a great motor its just cooling it that's the limiting factor, forced air flow only helped so much.

Have a look at this video Nux made https://youtu.be/9iVC-Lc8a0I, and see the pace of the other karts and how he had to cut back at 7:30 because of the 130c temperature on the 7th lap.
 
If you can shoehorn something in a kart like that, do it!

Mine's a test bench and not really going to be raced just yet. I might get there, who knows!

I get batteries today :)
 
Awesome! The batteries look very robust, have you thought about a protective casing yet?

And for the mount I'm going to get a drawing together in cad and send it across to one of those online fabricators that can cut and bend, looking at 1/2" stainless, might be a good idea to collaborate on that to see if we can get a standard going for the ME1507 and ME1616, perhaps have it paired to one of the rotax max motor mounts
 
Those batteries look pretty impressive. I see you already got rid of the gas tank. :D

With a welder and some skill, you should be able to mount the larger motors. Possibly above or behind the axle.
 
Upperfoot:
I'm thinking 28-30 cells (as much as I can fit in there and get the highest voltage possible without going over the controller max). I want to make some plexi/lexan cases that are screwed together into eachother. I might opt for some cheaper HDPE material and have a clear cover on the top. You gotta show them off!

Lets colaborate on the motor mount. I use Autocad daily for 2D stuff. Haven't tried online fabricators, but I'm interested.

Fechter:
They do look good and they were a steal, so I figured why not. Gas tank was the first thing to go (engine was already gone). I'm trying to keep as much of it bolt on without welding the chassis. Also, I want to be able to test different motors with similar bolt patterns. The ME1304 fits just fine, but the ME1507 and ME1616 would require a new mount. The mount is nice, but the bolt pattern for the ME1507 isn't the same as the 1304 and I cannot get it fit on there properly.
 
fechter said:
With a welder and some skill, you should be able to mount the larger motors. Possibly above or behind the axle.
anyone intending to "race" competitively..or just for fun.. just be aware that kart races are won or lost in the corners..its not a drag race, power is not the priority,
Basicly it down to handling,, and fundamentally weight.
You need the least possible weight, located a low as possible, and as close to the center as possible.
An Ekart will inevitably be disadvantaged by battery weight, and possibly motor weight also (30 bhp kart motors weigh < 12 kg ) , but dont make it worse by mounting the motor behind or above the axle, and try to put as mch of the battery weight central, under the drivers legs.
I know there is a lot of space out near the side pods, but from a handling /corner speed point of view,..that is not a good location.!
 
Thanks Hillhater.

I think for now, that's where the batteries are going, so I can avoid welding to the frame. If I was going to race, I'd be using Lipo and a custom pack that is small and light. This is more of a fun kart/test bench for me. I do appreciate the advice for me and others, it does help!
 
Upperfoot said:
looking at 1/2" stainless,

Youngs Modulus is pretty much the same for all the steels so you may want to consider saving some money by not specifying a stainless alloy, some of which are very prone to work hardening and are more difficult to work with if you need to weld on them. If you need a high strength steel (keeping in mind it isn't stiffer, it just bends farther before taking a permanent set) you can order 4130 .25" plate in "hobby" sizes from Aircraft Spruce

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/4130sheet.php

cheers,
Michael
 
Upperfoot said:
Awesome! The batteries look very robust, have you thought about a protective casing yet?

And for the mount I'm going to get a drawing together in cad and send it across to one of those online fabricators that can cut and bend, looking at 1/2" stainless, might be a good idea to collaborate on that to see if we can get a standard going for the ME1507 and ME1616, perhaps have it paired to one of the rotax max motor mounts
That Burris mount is a good starting point..pretty universal and if you talk to Burris they might just have a suitable adaptor available. https://cometkartsales.com/Burris-Mounts-and-Combo-Mounts/
PS make sure you have the correct lower clamps to suit your specific chassis rail spacing.
But if you have to make something ..a "face mount" plate i assume,..stick with the billet Al , its better for weight and rigidity .
 
Sorry for lack of updates. This took a few turns. Many of you know that I had a business selling motors and controllers. I was put into contact with Topkart to supply them some components. Eventually, I worked with EVDrive (in Oregon) and Topkart to develop a kit that should be available later this year, called the Ion. I'm abandoning my Swiss Hutless cart because we'll have a Topkart chassis.

Here's an article:
https://kart360.com/2019/top-kart-usa-in-final-development-stages-of-competitive-ev-ion-package

Short video:
[youtube]miyi2gQZ7Qg[/youtube]

53863029_10107863700488043_5037102048059850752_o.jpg
 
Nice one bud! Did you get regenerative braking sorted for them or did they decide to just have the mechanical brake?
 
Hillhater said:
IM surprised there is no sign of front brakes ?
A 15kWh pack is pretty bulky..like having a passenger ,
And i dont think any kart should have traction control !
Yeah, I noticed that. The article says 15kW, not kWh, and it's roughly 4.5kWh. Gotta love journalists.

I think they'll eventually want front brakes!
 
Upperfoot said:
Nice one bud! Did you get regenerative braking sorted for them or did they decide to just have the mechanical brake?
They have some off throttle regenerative braking (aka neutral braking). They don't want to integrate an additional brake input at this time.
 
nice build!

can you provide any info over how the wiringloom worked?
just plug and play? i guess you need to program the controller to work with the motor?

greetings louis

would like to hear from you: curently building a street legal minibuggy with the zero 75-5 motor and the size 4 controller
 
We designed the wiring loom, so yes, it plugged in and worked immediately. The Sevcon had to be programmed for the motor, yes. The wiring loom includes a programming port.

Maybe I'm not understanding the question. Can you clarify?
 
hey,
thanks you aswered my question perfectly!
is there also any posibility that i can get my zero lcd screen working? so i can see the battery level and speed?
or is that to difficult?

greetings louis
 
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