Rad2Go E36 Build

[milesinfront]

So today I spun the C80100 for the first time! I think I fluked the wiring:- Motor spun in the right direction. Runs smooth at low revs, so I guess my sensors are wired right too! BUT - Motor cuts out at full throttle. I'm not sure if it's losing sync or it's the LV setting on my controller. Lyen preset mine for 20s, but for my test I was only running 13s. To begin with, the motor would spin up to a certain RPM then die. After a second if would run again. But after a few minutes of playing it would stop for longer and longer periods of time. I suspect that I'm right on the voltage cut-off, and at open throttle I was getting some voltage sag which crossed the threshold.

Now the other problem is that I'm having trouble reprogramming the controller. I've PM'd Lyen for some assistance...

I may have also possibly fluked the trigger wheel position! While I couldn't get to full throttle, amps never went over 2! Am I celebrating prematurely???

And some pics of the test:-

[milesinfront]

Doh, just realised that I was current sensing off one of the phase wires, NOT battery, so my no load current is still unknown... Lyen has replied asking for my model and serial numbers, which I have given. Hopefully I'll be able to have another crack at it soon, but am VERY busy with work for the rest of this week...

[milesinfront]

Lyen came up with 'the goods' on the controller programming, so another issue solved. Ready to re-test now!

[milesinfront]

Had some more time testing the motor/controller today. After fully charging the batteries, the intermittent no-run situations have gone, but I'm still having trouble. After a certain rpm (2/3 throttle) the motor runs rough, and stops. After playing with the trigger wheel angle, I did get it to run to full throttle about 75% of the time. It sounds awful! I don't know if it's a balance thing, bearing thing or the controller loosing sync. I do need to make a better bracket as the very springy bent alloy one is vibrating the trigger board HEAPS too, but even while steadying with my finger it still sounds BAAAD. And this is at 50 volts! The plan is to run ~75 volts!

The only good news was seeing 6-7amps no load current (+skirt bearing) at full throttle...

[Burtie]

You need to fix that trigger board vibration.

Beyond that:

Play with the distance to the trigger wheel,

Play with the timing. Only a very small mechanical adjustment can make a BIG difference, remember that 1 mechanical degree is equivalent to 7 edegrees with this motor.

Shield the sensors from any possible light interference

Make sure your encoder image has the right optical properties, look at the sensor signals with a meter or 'scope as you turn the motor, to make sure they are working as they should.

[milesinfront]

Latest news:-

Ordered and fitted new bearings to the C80100. They're 2RS' so no efficiency is gunna suffer some, but hopefully will be more reliable long term.

Welded the motor mount to the frame:- Ugly but effective!

Ordered and received roll pins for 'staking' drive sprockets.

Ordered halls for internal mounting. Motor is apart, so may as well glue some in and see...

[milesinfront]

Changed my mind again... Reassebled motor without halls. Thought of a much better way to mount the optical board, and incorporate a more precise way to adjust the timing... Will post pics when done!

[milesinfront]

Here's my progress on timing adjustment... The long screws may confuse, but they will be shortened...

[Bluefang]

You seem to be having fun with your project, all the cut out pieces your making really look nice

[milesinfront]

Fun? Yeah I suppose... It's definitely fun when all the parts fit and work properly! I just hope the effort yields the results I am looking for...

[milesinfront]

Another mile stone! Testing motor and opto board on frame. For the first time I was able to reach full speed! I was amazed how smooth the motor became once the revs went into crazy land! (54.6v x 130kv = ~7krpm?) Best no load current was a less than impressive 12.5amps. Not surprised considering the rubber sealed bearings I fitted. More alarming is the motor and controller temp. Getting hard to touch and I'm not even doing anything yet...

Quickly ran out of time, but after attaching the wheel and chain I could no-longer hit full rpm! Controller would cut out at about 1/2 throttle. I'm suspecting voltage cut-out again! Will re-charge the batteries and try again another day...

Dam these outrunners are noisy!

[milesinfront]

Quick update:- Stripped the motor and reassembled with internal halls. I did a quick bench test and the results are very promising! Controller didn't lose sync once, no matter how violent I was with the throttle. Motor is nice and smooth and quickly ramps up to full speed. I think I'm on a winner now, but am worried about long-term reliability of the halls and wiring in such a harsh environment... Time will tell! Hopefully a test ride tomorrow!

[milesinfront]

Quick test ride:- HOLY MOTHER OF GOD!!! This is one ANGRY scooter! Max amps is less than half what the unite was pulling (64 vs 150) and bottom end is twice as strong! I will need to increase the current limiting substantially as the throttle response is just silly...

[E-racer]

Yea you really dont appreciate an 80-100 till you ride one

[milesinfront]

New top speed - 57.3km/h! This motor/controller combo feels like a 2-stroke, with a supercharged bottom end! Initial launch is brutal, then the torque plato's. Just when you think that's it, it suddenly comes on 'cam' and there's a top end hit! It's SOOOO awesome! I've just parked the scooter and I'm still shaking...

I spent about 20secs at full speed and nothing is more than just warm. No hot bits or electrical smells. I'm a VERY happy camper! Will get some video ASAP...

[milesinfront]

Discovered some things today which I didn't know...

The motor is a 180kv version! Spins the rear tyre at just over 1510rpm with 13s pack. Gearing is 9/54t... (9060rpm)

I didn't realise that the current doesn't taper off as quickly compared the the brushed motor. (makes sense, variable electronic commutation vs. mechanical) My 60A current limit is possibly knocking a little off my top speed. (I'm too scared to look down and read the CA display at full speed.) eBike Calc predicts max velocity at ~80amps...

No load current (inc. drive train and wheel) is 11.5 amps.

[milesinfront]

Max amps are now at 110! I programmed the controller to 100 amps. I wanted to set it at 80 amps, but the software jumps from 64 to 100 for some reason...

My quick test ride included MANY unintended wheelies! What a beast! Wrong time of day to go for a max speed run, so the current record of 57.4km/h still stands.

Of course the only true measurement of power is turning rubber into smoke:-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXYLsrtP2ec&feature=plcp