TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by Murfix » Mon Nov 18, 2013 8:19 am

Oh nvm, I see now that this website is blocked here at work xD

My bad..
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by Jonboy » Mon Nov 18, 2013 1:44 pm

torqueboards wrote:Update - 11/15/13
Here is my broken alien motor mount. It kept falling off so I also welded it to the trucks but that didn't help. Parts kept on snapping/cracking. I'm sure, it's partly due to the stress from riding on uneven pavements. I thought it would last a bit longer but didn't.
ImageImageImageImageImage

I ended up switching to my old board/setup and put on my newly created Paris welded motor mounts. There's a lot more aluminum actually holding the motor up rather than 2 thin pieces of aluminum as you can see on the alien motor mount. The alien mount did last for a while, however over time seems like it has degraded and/or gotten worse.

This current setup is (1) 6374mm SK3 Motors, (2) 5S Batteries, 12S 150A FlierESC on Earthwing MiniGlider 33" w/ 20" Wheelbase.
ImageImageImageImageImage
* Wires are a bit long, should be exact length to keep everything nice and tidy.
* The 20" Wheelbase is a bit too small for a dual motor setup especially 10S batteries with the FlierESC which takes up quite a bit of room.

With the new welded motor mount, the board runs like a champ similar to when I first got the alien mounts. Seems the aluminum area around the truck hanger is a bit wider/bigger than it needs to be. I could shorten it and/or make it fit a little bit better. However, I went with a bigger one hopefully to increase durability and strength. The Paris Trucks are awesome trucks to ride, I think I like them a lot better than the Holey Trucks they have a lot quicker turning so it seems.

Upcoming setup - Build #1 - This build will actually be re-done to look more visually appealing and more functional.
Components - (2) 6374mm SK3 Motors, (2) 5S Batteries, 12S 150A FlierESC on Earthwing Hoopty 34" w/ 25" to 27.5" Wheelbase. This gives me approximately 5" to 7.5" of more space since the wheelbase is longer. More room for the second motor.

The next build all the wires will be much neater and shorter to be as thin as possible and with a nice electronics enclosure. Hopefully, something similar to PracticalProjects enclosure. I also purchased a smaller remote which I should be receiving soon. I'm hoping the new remote will fit in my back pocket for ease of use.

Torques how did you manage to bust up the ADS parts into so many bits... Also it looks like you've been running not thick enough truck riser blocks, If I'm not mistaken in one of your pics you've had a motor wearing away on the deck underside :?

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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Mon Nov 18, 2013 2:13 pm

They are good mounts just rough terrain puts crazy stress on the parts. The front of the board gets banged on the bumps on sidewalk cracks and pavement so all that power/force I would assume gets pushed to the motor mount and with a small motor mount it causes major stress. Flat ground new issues at all though. The drive wheel works great though and no issues with that, just wish they were cheaper.

Yeah, the underside was due to the previous ADS mount because I put no risers. It was my fault it was eating away at the board, wanted a shorter riser. The welded mount is a perfect fit without risers which I angled that way specifically, so it doesn't hit the board at all.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by Jonboy » Mon Nov 18, 2013 2:44 pm

I can see how a guys weight when turning and the motor binding up against the deck would soon cause problems with any mount. Regarding rough terrain, I ride pretty hard and the two mates I've leant my board to are animals. . No prob with my ads.. did you manage to smake the motor hard riding up kerbs?

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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Mon Nov 18, 2013 3:32 pm

Proper Motor Pulley and Belt Alignment
The mounts were solid for a long time and all of a sudden they must of gotten weaker from the constant smacking of the front trucks, bolts would become more loose (This issue could of added a big percentage to the reason why they didn't perform properly). I also highly agree with properly mounting the ADS mounts especially the Holey mounts. The screws kept loosening so I believe with all the stress + belts not being aligned properly all the force will smash the mounts altogether. It would have to be pulleys, belts would have to be aligned properly 100% of the time to remain stable. You have the force with the motor and the board/motor riding on rough terrain. Going 10-15 miles and front leg weight on the board and going up a 1/4" uneven sidewalk cracks, dips on sidewalk curves can probably trash the mounts overtime, more so if the motor/belts/pulleys aren't aligned properly and/or don't flex properly during turns and dips. ADS mounts are great except with rough terrain the mount has to be perfectly 100% aligned with motors + belts and no flex otherwise it causes a great deal of stress on the mounts, motor, belts, etc. If the bolts are loose, you would have to check it and make sure they are secured properly. Consistently running the board under the stress without proper alignment will ruin the durability of the mounts. This is all due to my own user error and is because I didn't want to walk my board uphill and/or had a distance away to travel to get to my destination. Also constantly checking my mounts after every block was consistently tiring. I made a decision to purposely ride them until they cracked/fell off. I wish they would of held up for my particular rough terrain but with bolts loosening every so often it's a hassle.

The reason I ended up getting them welded was for durability so I wouldn't have to re-tighten screws every so often and the pulley/belt alignment would be 100% every time. I would think the Caliber Mounts are much better and would support the rough terrain since the mount isn't like the Holey Trucks. Holey Trucks simply being held on by screws with endcaps. Caliber Mounts is actually held on by the aluminum motor mount itself. For my application, I would simply make the caliber mounts a bit beefier to support the stress of rough terrain which I plan on doing shortly.
Jonboy wrote:No prob with my ads.. did you manage to smake the motor hard riding up kerbs?
At times, because the curbs are not particularly normal and are uneven, rough terrain from city streets. With the pulley/belt not in 100% alignment it caused stress on the rest of the parts.

CONCLUSION - Keep pulley/belts in alignment 100% at all times to reduce stress to motor mount on rough terrain. Have enough surface space on motor mounts to spread effects of stress/force. (That's why my motor mount is one entire piece and isn't as aesthetically beautiful like the ADS mounts. LOL.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by Jonboy » Mon Nov 18, 2013 4:30 pm

I Have the Caliber ADS setup which I thread locked from the start and set the pulley alignment perfectly.. hence no problems I guess.

Regarding your "weld on" set up. after the truck and bracket have been welded does the complete unit then require any kind of heat treating :?:

What would be the cost of a truck & bracket welded up & ready to go?

Cheers

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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Mon Nov 18, 2013 6:14 pm

Jonboy wrote:I Have the Caliber ADS setup which I thread locked from the start and set the pulley alignment perfectly.. hence no problems I guess.

Regarding your "weld on" set up. after the truck and bracket have been welded does the complete unit then require any kind of heat treating :?:

What would be the cost of a truck & bracket welded up & ready to go?

Cheers
I used loctite on my bolts as well and from the stress it left a few bolts stuck in due to alignment + rough terrain.

It does not need any heat treatment. I was warned this by a few machine shops but remembered Matthias's build and he didn't heat treat it as well as some others which I forgot. The guy who welded it I also asked and he said it's not needed. He specifically said he also went to school for the "welding" to learn the actual properties and mentioned its BS. Since when welding it takes the oxygen/air from the material and actually makes it stronger. Correct me if I'm wrong.

From having it welded he just air dried it and it holds up perfectly fine. I would just make sure you clean/sand the area slightly down to get a better/cleaner weld. I welded it on both sides. It acts as one complete piece.
Last edited by torqueboards on Sat Jan 25, 2014 3:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by Murfix » Tue Nov 19, 2013 2:21 am

about the heat treatment, that could be correct. On steel, you can have residual stress after welding which is bad for the part's life (heat treatment removes this). On Alu though, the weld could be stronger than the metal itself. Not entirely sure though.
Non-perfect belt alignment shouldn't be a factor in motor mount breaking.

Oh man, when reading your posts I'm so glad I went for a mtb! You are butchering your build :o I hope you have some damping for your electronics...
Memo to myself: Screw it, just do it!
1 Apr 2013 - Start pre-engineering my first EV build!
6 Aug 2013 - Ordered all parts for my Emtb 8s 2x2kW 270kv Alien ESC setup.
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23 Sept 2013 - First test ride: AWESOME!
7 Feb 2014 - Upgrade finished: 3kW motors, 12S Alien ESC, entire new drivetrain and LED's!
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Tue Nov 19, 2013 7:37 am

Murfix wrote:about the heat treatment, that could be correct. On steel, you can have residual stress after welding which is bad for the part's life (heat treatment removes this). On Alu though, the weld could be stronger than the metal itself. Not entirely sure though.
Non-perfect belt alignment shouldn't be a factor in motor mount breaking.

Oh man, when reading your posts I'm so glad I went for a mtb! You are butchering your build :o I hope you have some damping for your electronics...
A MTB isn't portable :(. Otherwise, I might of.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by michaelkramer11 » Tue Nov 19, 2013 9:44 pm

I'm a total noob when it comes to e-boards. Just started researching like two days ago. I'd be interested in a pre welded setup if you have more available.

I've done a little boarding in the past but never too intense. Would you guys recommend going single or dual motor setup? Also, are these mounts compatible with the popular hobbyking motors?

If you could provide links to all necessary hardware (sprockets, gears, belts) I would most likely pick up a set from you.

Thanks for any and all advice!
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by larry502 » Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:05 pm

Motor mount looks pretty good. I design is almost identical to your but mine was handmade. I kinda wish i would have seen your before i made one.

Where are you getting your paris trucks? Are you not using the ebay link i send you a few months ago?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Paris-150mm-Bla ... 232b1c659a

For like 40.00 you can get trucks, bearings, wheels and hardware.

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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:26 pm

michaelkramer11 wrote:I'm a total noob when it comes to e-boards. Just started researching like two days ago. I'd be interested in a pre welded setup if you have more available.

I've done a little boarding in the past but never too intense. Would you guys recommend going single or dual motor setup? Also, are these mounts compatible with the popular hobbyking motors?

If you could provide links to all necessary hardware (sprockets, gears, belts) I would most likely pick up a set from you.

Thanks for any and all advice!
-Michael
Hi Michael, Welcome to ES. It's always nice seeing new people interested in Eboards. I can set you up with a pre-welded setup if you are interested. However, you would save money doing it on your own.

Single motor setup if you are only looking to go about 20mph. Dual motor setup is really only needed if you want to reach speeds above 20mph or you prefer the benefit of 2 motors (although heavier and more expensive). Currently, the welded motor mounts I have here are only setup for 63mm motors with a 32mm bolt spacing. Smaller motors have a thinner bolt space so it wouldn't work with my current welded motor mount.

I would recommend the following items if you have no preference:

LONGBOARD PARTS
LONGBOARD - $50-60 - I buy from MuirSkate.com. This one isn't too bad at $33.99. 36.5" Pintail - http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-75-x-36-5-NAT ... 565d6e848f
TRUCKS - 180mm Paris Trucks, 83mm ABEC Clone Wheels, Bearings, Hardware - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Paris-180mm-Lon ... 1013286451 $65.98. These most likely aren't authentic Paris Trucks as the weld was not perfect meaning the quality of the material is of less quality. Recommended to shave down the part that will be welded to hopefully produce a cleaner weld. However, they work great and am using them now. The weld still holds up it's just not as pretty!
LONGBOARD PARTS TOTAL = $125.98 + S/H, Tax

ELECTRONIC PARTS
MOTORS - (1) 6354 SK3 260kv - $60.22 - 489g - http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__ ... Motor.html
ESC - (1) EZRUN 150A PRO - $88.95 - 481g - http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems ... a-pro.html
BATTERIES - (2) ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mah 3S1P 20C - $45.80 - 808g - http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__ ... P_20C.html
ACCESSORIES - Extra 10 AWG Wire, Heatshrink, Low Voltage Meters, 5.5mm Gold Bullet Connectors
ELECTRONICS TOTAL = $194.97 + S/H, Tax + Accessories
WEIGHT = 1778g = 3.9lbs

DRIVE TRAIN HARDWARE
MOTOR MOUNTS - (1) TorqueBoards Welded Motor Mount - $35 + $40 Local Weld - 122g - $75
MOTOR PULLEY - Buy Aluminum HTD 5mm 14T - 2 Flanges w/ Hub - $10.51/each. Part Number: A 6A25M014DF0906 from SDP-SI.com and bore with 8mm. Best to create a flat spot for set screw on the motor shaft. You can do this with sandpaper, dremmel and/or local machine shop. + $15 bore = $25.51/each
DRIVE WHEEL PULLEY - Buy Plastic Pulley HTD 5mm 40T - 1 Flange w/ Hub No Insert. $4.84/each - Part Number: A 6L25M040SF0908 from SDP-SI.com. Drill through and bore through to spin around trucks. - $4.84
TIMING BELT - 5mm pitch, HTD 9mm width - 60 Grooves, Pitch Length 300mm, (Center Distance between 2 pulleys 79.80mm) - $7.84/each - Part Number: A 6R25M060090 from SDP-SI.com. - $7.84
ACCESSORIES - Drilled Fender Washer/Back Plate for Plastic Pulley and/or if Nylon Bolts are enough to hold in screws and/or screws. $10-15 or so. - $15.00
BATTERY ENCLOSURE - You can use duck tape and velcro similar to my janky/ghetto build. LOL Cost is free maybe some 3" velcro from eBay.
DRIVE TRAIN TOTAL = $128.19 + S/H, Tax
WEIGHT = 122g = 0.26g

TOTAL WEIGHT ADDED = 4.16 lbs w/o weighing everything listed. Other stuff should weigh maybe 5 lbs over + weight of longboard in general.

With that being said, you should be able to create an electric longboard for $441.30 USD or slightly more. Also, not including your battery charger too.
michaelkramer11 wrote:I'd be interested in a pre welded setup if you have more available.
As for how much the bracket would cost pre-welded.
$60 Paris Trucks & (1) Brackets $35 + Welding $35 = $130 TOTAL + S/H [LOCALLY]
*If you purchased locally. If I was to do it, I would have to add about $60 more to account for my time.

I would rather have you save money and get it done yourself. You can purchase the welded motor mount from me if you need too for $35/shipped to US and shipping is about $12.95 or so Overseas, I think.

Plastic Pulley Drive Wheel Hub/Cog - $10-$25
Currently, it seems the most cheapest way for a Drive Wheel Hub/Cog would be the plastic HTD 40T or 30T Plastic Pulley and you would drill through the middle so it spins around the trucks. While also drilling holes to fit M6 bolts through the ABEC wheels. You most likely won't need a backplate/fender washer which holds to hold the pulley onto the wheel. You may be able to simply add a nylon lock nut to hold it through since M6 bolts are pretty big the nylon lock nut should be big enough to not fit through the wheel. Saves some hassle not needing a backplate. You can always add a washer to add more material to hold everything together. This method is the cheapest. The pulley itself 40T HTD 5mm 9mm width only costs $4.84/each. What a deal! You can either have 3 M6 bolts through and/or 6 if you want it more secure.

Aluminum Pulley Drive Wheel Hub/Cog - $30-$50
Of course, this would be the more durable drive wheel and can probably be done the exact same way. Currently, working on one and should be a few weeks hopefully. Same concept except it's an aluminum pulley that will be counterbore with m6 socket cap bolts. The bolts will be flushed on the backside.

Have any questions feel free to ask away! :mrgreen: Hope this helps!
Last edited by torqueboards on Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:27 pm

larry502 wrote:Motor mount looks pretty good. I design is almost identical to your but mine was handmade. I kinda wish i would have seen your before i made one.

Where are you getting your paris trucks? Are you not using the ebay link i send you a few months ago?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Paris-150mm-Bla ... 232b1c659a

For like 40.00 you can get trucks, bearings, wheels and hardware.
Yes, I'm using the same ones. I'm sure, that guy makes a lot of money from us on ES :D Although, I don't think they are authentic Paris Trucks but doesn't bother me. I have another Paris Trucks bought from MuirSkate.com and it was a cleaner weld. I assume due to the aluminum casting process. However, I've been riding the eBay one and works fine and durable still.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by larry502 » Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:11 am

What size belt did you end up running on your mount?

You wanna sent me one? Price + Shipping to 47150 Louisville, Ky

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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:16 am

larry502 wrote:What size belt did you end up running on your mount?

You wanna sent me one? Price + Shipping to 47150 Louisville, Ky
You can use any depending on what your setup is. You can use http://www.sdp-si.com/cd/CenterDistance.asp?Sender=NB and make sure center distance is between 70mm and 85mm and you should be good. There's a good 15mm of adjustment by moving the motor mounts. I'll PM you regarding the mount, if your interested.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by michaelkramer11 » Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:15 am

@torqueboards

Thank you so much for the great info!!!!

Is there any way to adjust for alignment of the motor pulley/driven pulley? Or does that pretty much have to be done when welding takes place?

And I was kind of confused as to what all you would include for the $130 plus shipping. Is that for a pair of trucks with a bracket welded to one and a set of wheels/bearings/hardware?

And what were you meaning would cost $60 extra?
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:21 am

michaelkramer11 wrote:@torqueboards

Thank you so much for the great info!!!!

Is there any way to adjust for alignment of the motor pulley/driven pulley? Or does that pretty much have to be done when welding takes place?

And I was kind of confused as to what all you would include for the $130 plus shipping. Is that for a pair of trucks with a bracket welded to one and a set of wheels/bearings/hardware?

And what were you meaning would cost $60 extra?
You are more then welcome. The motor mounts as you can see in the image below gives you about 15mm's of adjustment by just adjusting the screws and the motor placement. From motor pulley to drive wheel pulley, you have about 70mm to 85mm for the center distance. You can use this tool here to figure out your belt width - http://www.sdp-si.com/cd/default.htm. If you look above, I've already mentioned which belt that would fit.

Image

As for the $130 price that is if you do it yourself. Which I would recommend IMO to save money. You buy the 180mm Paris Trucks Raw (Can't weld with a color coat on it) for $60. You buy bracket from me for $35 and/or you create your own and then have someone weld it for $35-40 within your area, an aluminum welder. Should take no longer than 10-20 minutes.

$60 Paris Trucks & (1) Motor Mounts $35 + Welding $35 = $130 TOTAL + S/H [LOCALLY]

For the price above, you can go with the eBay pair and buy it all for about $60 with wheels, bearings, hardware kit, etc.

$60 extra is if you want me to pre-weld it for you and ship it out to you. It's more cost effective for you to do it on your own, of course. It's just not worth my effort to buy trucks and go out of my way to get it welded for you. If you plan on getting one within the next 1-2 weeks I might be able to charge your just $30 on top since I am going to get some of my stuff welded. In that case, it wouldn't be out of my way.

Hope this helps if I welded it myself. It would be another story, but unfortunately I don't. :mrgreen:
Last edited by torqueboards on Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by michaelkramer11 » Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:32 am

If you really wouldn't mind, I would be willing to buy the parts pre welded from you for your asking price. I just want to be sure to get it done right the first time, and since you've done it before and know a welder, I'd rather pay you the $30 for your time if you are making a trip anyways.

These things look so awesome, I'm just dying to get one going. I know I'm being the lazy guy here, but after this first build I feel like I'll be more exposed and able to take care of some of the more mechanical stuff on my own.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:56 am

michaelkramer11 wrote:If you really wouldn't mind, I would be willing to buy the parts pre welded from you for your asking price. I just want to be sure to get it done right the first time, and since you've done it before and know a welder, I'd rather pay you the $30 for your time if you are making a trip anyways.

These things look so awesome, I'm just dying to get one going. I know I'm being the lazy guy here, but after this first build I feel like I'll be more exposed and able to take care of some of the more mechanical stuff on my own.
No problem. I'll send you a PM.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by LEVer » Wed Nov 20, 2013 1:08 pm

Nice. Now, if you could use your tail-guard more often for braking, you will make your motor bearings last longer.

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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Wed Nov 20, 2013 1:16 pm

Pediglide wrote:Nice. Now, if you could use your tail-guard more often for braking, you will make your motor bearings last longer.
Very good advice. I should practice my tail brake. I tend to use my brakes too much lol.
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by LEVer » Wed Nov 20, 2013 1:22 pm

The problem though is when you come down, it'll shake the motor since its in the front. You could try putting it on the back and have a slalom stance. :wink:

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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by michaelkramer11 » Thu Nov 21, 2013 12:54 am

Anyone have experience with this radio: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html

Seems to look a little smaller than the other turnigy radio and has a rechargeable lithium battery built in.

Also, have you used the 150 amp ezrun esc? Do you like it?
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Thu Nov 21, 2013 1:13 am

michaelkramer11 wrote:Anyone have experience with this radio: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html

Seems to look a little smaller than the other turnigy radio and has a rechargeable lithium battery built in.
The GT2 and the GT-2 are both good. GT2 has a rechargeable and GT-2 requires 8 AA batteries. I use the GT-2 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... Tx_Rx.html. Although, both are big. The GT2 is smaller which I have also but haven't used it yet. GT-2 works great just with batteries. I carry extras in my backpack just in-case.

There's also this pistol grip controller that HK was selling for a while - https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 35&t=54995. It's sick and smaller. I bought 2 but haven't received it yet. I'm hoping it will fit in my backpocket. I hate how the GT2/GT-2 are huge and don't fit in my back pocket. I have to put it in my backpack when I walk in a store or what not.

Here's a breakdown on the GT2 - http://diyelectriclongboard.wordpress.c ... 09/16/gt2/. I'd like to break mine down and try and fit it in a smaller controller similar to this cool one here - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:130972. If I get time, I'll design a 3D printed controller but that's after I make some battery enclosures for my new boards.
michaelkramer11 wrote:Also, have you used the 150 amp ezrun esc? Do you like it?
As for EZRun ESC, I haven't but I've heard great things about it and it's not much difference in price for HK 150A and Trackstar 150A. If I was to buy one the EZRun would be the one I would buy. I currently use the dual motor ESCs.
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torqueboards
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Re: TorqueBoard's Durable Welded Motor Mount Build #1

Post by torqueboards » Tue Dec 10, 2013 9:08 am

I'm offering a full mechanical package for an Electric Longboard Kit.

Full Mechanical Electric Longboard Kit's come with Paris style trucks w/ motor mounts for 50mm or 63mm SK3 motors, 2 motor pulleys, 2 drive wheel pulley, 2 drive wheel belts and set of 4 ABEC 11 Flywheel Style Wheels in Neon Green.

Single Motor Electric Longboard Kit - $225 + S/H
Dual Diagonal Motor Electric Longboard Kit - $325 + S/H

PM me if you are interested.

Welded Motor Mount Builds If I missed your board , please let me know and I'll add it.

Single Motor Mount Setup Cost
(1) 180mm Paris Trucks (wheels, spacers, bearings, hardware) with Single Welded Motor Mount = $140 + $15 S/H USPS Priority Mail = $155
(1) Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6354-215kv Brushless Outrunner Motor (USA Warehouse) - $60.93 - http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh ... duct=38747
(2) ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 3S1P 30C - $30.13/ea - $60.26 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... p_30c.html
(1) Hobbywing EZRUN-150A-PRO Brushless ESC for 1/8 or 1/5 Vehicles - $85 - http://www.valuehobby.com/hobbywing-ezrun-150a-pro.html
(1) HobbyKing HK-GT2B 3CH 2.4GHz - $23.63 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ttery.html
Motor Pulley, Drive Wheel Pulley, Belt = $80
Miscellaneous wires or so $20-40, Charger $30
TOTAL COST for a Single Motor Setup that goes 20-23mph = $494.82

Dual Motor Mount Setup Cost
(1) 195mm Paris Trucks (trucks only) with Dual Rear Welded Motor Mounts = $190 w/ $15 S/H = $205
(2) Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6354-215kv Brushless Outrunner Motor (USA Warehouse) - $60.93/ea - $121.86 - http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh ... duct=38747
(2) ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 3S1P 30C - $30.13/ea - $60.26 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... p_30c.html
(1) Hobbywing EZRUN-150A-PRO Brushless ESC for 1/8 or 1/5 Vehicles - $85/ea - $170 - http://www.valuehobby.com/hobbywing-ezrun-150a-pro.html
(1) HobbyKing HK-GT2B 3CH 2.4GHz - $23.63 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ttery.html
Motor Pulley, Drive Wheel Pulley, Belt = $160
Miscellaneous wires or so $20-40, Charger $30
TOTAL COST for a Dual Motor Diagonal or Dual Rear Wheel Setup that goes 30+mph = $810.75

Want to build your own drive wheel save a few bucks?

Motor Pulley - You can buy from SDP-SI.com which has 14T aluminum pulleys but I would buy the steel pulleys 14T, HTD 5mm, 9mm width from Polybelt - http://shop.polybelt.com/5M09-Pulleys-f ... s_c150.htm - $8.70. They come with a 6mm bore which needs to be 8mm to fit over the motor shaft of your motor. Steel pulleys have more threading and also more durable. The best way to have the pulley would be to get it keyed with a keyed motor shaft as well but can cost about $40-$60 for both. If there's not that much stress simply an 8mm motor shaft with a flat (can use a dremmel) and have the set screw sit on the flat. You can sand/grind a flat onto the motor shaft with a dremmel.
Drive Wheel Pulley - Buy a 40T, HTD 5mm, 9mm width from SDP-SI.com. You can use Part Number: A 6L25-040SF0910. $4.84. Simply bolt the Plastic Pulley onto the ABEC 11 Clone wheels which a 6mm or M6 bolt will fit right through with 6mm Nylon Lock Nuts on the other end. If you use real ABEC 11's use 5mm bolts and 5mm nylon lock nuts.
Belt Drive Pulley - Buy any HTD 5mm, 9mm width pulley from 53T to 59T from PolyBelt.com (http://shop.polybelt.com/5m-09-9mm-Wide ... er_c60.htm). A 54 teeth polybelt is $3.84/ea. They are decent but wear a lot faster than a more expensive belt from SDP-SI.com which are $7.59 for a 54T belt (Part Number: A 6R25M054090). Polybelt is great for testing. If you want a real durable belt than a SDP-SI.com belt is better.

Hope this makes everyone's builds a lot cheaper and looking to see more electric longboard builds :).
Last edited by torqueboards on Mon May 19, 2014 8:18 pm, edited 9 times in total.
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