VESC Capacitor Fell out.. What?!

Montiey

10 W
Joined
Dec 10, 2015
Messages
89
So far, I've had a far from pleasant experience building my electric skateboard. Nunchuck problems, DRV problems, but one thing I never expected was for bits and pieces of my VESC to simply fall off- well, sort of.
IMG_6317.JPG

IMG_6318.JPG

The center capacitor has broken it's leads off. I indeed intend to replace it before riding the board again, but I'll need to also replace the inline XT60 loop key connector that has melted, possibly from a bad solder joint (it just looks unhealthy!). Preferably with an XT90. Obviously I'll be much more gentle with that end of the VESC, but I wonder if it was a pothole or something else that did it in. Where is the best place to get an exact replacement?
 
Simple to replace with an identical 680uF 63v cap - i've gotten mine off Amazon or Mouser.

quick search -
https://smile.amazon.com/Nichicon-Electrolytic-Capacitors-10pcs-680uF/dp/B014JPMKQS

I looked on vedder's github for his CAP PCB: https://github.com/vedderb/CapPCB
Some capacitors that work from mouser are:
647-UPW1J681MHD6
647-UPW1J471MHD
667-EEU-FC1J471L

I'd make sure the measurements match so it'll fit. Vedder's BOM has a specific model for sizing - you can double check there too.
Code:
Termination Style: 	Radial 	
Capacitance: 	680 uF 	
Voltage Rating DC: 	63 VDC 	
Tolerance: 	20 % 	
Ripple Current: 	2270 mA 	
Maximum Operating Temperature: 	+ 105 C 	
Diameter: 	12.5 mm 	
Length: 	35.5 mm 	
Lead Spacing: 	5 mm
So the important data here to me is the size 12.5mm diameter, 25-35.5mm long, w/ 5mm lead spacing. The first one's he notes are 35mm long, the second 25mm long - so i'd measure which you have and match that length.


I would double check the other solder connections on the remaining 2 caps just in case they are all a bit loose. Or cracking from flex/vibration.

While you are at it - look under your power wire where the sensor plug goes to make sure the bottom pin isn't digging into the insulation of the wire - if it shorts it can kill your VESC. file them down a bit (round the edges), or a dab of hot glue to insulate and cushion...

Your loop key looks a bit rough... XT90 anti-spark is definitely a good one to have.

HTH - GL!
 
Thanks for the BOM info.
The caps you linked are 16x27mm and have a pin spacing of 7.5mm, but mine is 13x35 and has a pin spacing of 5mm. I'll probably replace all the caps at once, and put heat shrink or something all the way around them to protect the bundle from stress. I can even 3d print a sort of holder since the caps aren't perfectly side by side, and will get bent if shrunk as-is.

I don't think the port under the + wire is going to be a problem. It looks like the pins have been clipped, and the wire isn't all the way against the board in that spot anyhow. I'll look closer when I have the heat shrink off regardless.
And as for the loop key, I need a better connector, and to redo the soldering. I don't think the overheating is a fault of the XT60, but rather a cold joint causing heat dissipation. I have another XT60 on the battery end, and it's working fine under the same loads. Mainly I'll use the bigger connector so I can properly solder to the big fat wires coming off of the VESC.
IMG_6323.JPG
 
Ollin, it is indeed one of yours. I appreciate your offer no doubt, but if you could let me know where you source your caps from instead, or know of where I can get a small quantity, I would be grateful. I want to replace the 2 that are left, as the chances that they were exposed to the same stress that ripped the first one is obvious, but also grab an extra set for spares.

:)
 
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