4wd 3.2kw mobility scooter

Ianhill

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Sep 25, 2015
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Got myself 4 hoverboard wheels and 24s 10ah of lipo lying around at first I wanted to make a mountain board but then I though why not make a mobility scooter go a bit faster, so I ordered 4 wheels I'm in talks for 4, 12 fet 500w 48v 30a controllers.

My plan is to make it 4wd all controllers lead to one throttle, still have the Hare and a tourtouise speed adjustment but I'll swap it out to a four way rotary switch so I have 3 speeds and reverse and for front and rear brake ill use the brake high signal from the front to controllers separated aswell as rear worked by bmx levers on the bar and a twist throttle to go.

The lights will be upgraded all to led, front will have a dip and 30w ×2 high beam the rear will have a brake high and illumination.

Top speeds etc, I'm hoping for around 25mph with the setup and enough grunt to climb any tarmac surface, you know me all my build are cheap arse and light as I can get them I may add a 5v USB to this one for charging phones etc while I out galavanting or doing 25mph in the local ikea.
 
You might get some ideas from this one:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=91816
 
That's mental, An old escort goes for the over take nah nah fella get to the back and it's gone I think that would give a decent car a run for its money upto 60mph.

I'm looking to keep this stock foot print so I can drive Into a shop in granny mode and flick it into drift mode.

So I'll be looking to use the 4wd for good drifts and get the small tyres slipping like mad.
A hoverboard wheel will take 28amp bursts as a single unit so four of them should find it easyier and I'll have 110amp at 48v rather than the stock 18amp 24v.

To get the wheels on ill use a 16mm id cold rolled steel tube 3mm wall cut to small lengths and welded on so I can lower it and widen the wheel Base a little and add some camber to the front while I'm there, I'll get the seat low as I can and then shorten the handle bars a bit to make it a drift monster.

Only issue I got is the tyres are grippy I need to swap to grey mobility spec tyres which are available and they need to be slippy soaked in oil for few weeks or something.
 
These guys have the slippy tire thing figured out:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=84936&p=1279998&hilit=drift+trike#p1279998

Find just the right size of plastic pipe and slice off pieces. Deflate tire and press on. Reinflate tire to keep them on. When they wear out, replace them.

Ice works too. If your weather is cold enough, spray water on the patio and let it freeze. It might work better for drifting if it was only 2WD.
 
The front fork on that is a nice bit of work, it's kinda where I want to go with it only issue I got is the hoverboard wheels are solid no air.

I need to get the tyre slipping with the floor but not with the hub so I slip my power away I'll build it first then worry about tyres later I've been bite by tyres.

I got a load of copper here too and winding enamel so I could rewind them in time, from what I've read they use a plastic insulator that melts when pushed hard so really they all could do with a rebuild, better copper fill, use a fibre based insulation, enamel the windings, weatherproof the magnets and open the case for improved cooling they are cheap as chips so being fussy won't be an issue here.
 
It needs to be all wheel drive.

I have no idea if these things are single wheel drive or not, but lock the entire back axel together . Put an oversized motor back there so the wheels will spin well. Put a couple of hover board motors in place of the front wheels.
 
fechter said:
You might get some ideas from this one:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=91816

That thing is essentially a trike with a giant hub in the back. Pretty cool that it can do 60mph+. If the wheels were well balanced and on bearings, while small, they could do the speed on nice flat roads. God help him if he was doing 60 and hit a bump with no suspension!
 
The rear end is a sealed unit, a very steep reduction with loads of slop and a locked rear end, the cogs look to weak fir any power a boma would shread them in no time I like everyone's idea to go full on and build a super fun death trap but this has 200mm wheels that's very small and it has no brake other than electric.

Researching the hub motor I find it has 30 magnets around L40/D2/W6mm 27 stator poles that hold 15 turns 4 stands 0.3mm wire. aaabbbcccaaabbbccc with room for a bit more fill.

With any chinese lego motor there's a bit of variety so when I recieve them I'll get a kv rating and give accurate specs on the magnets used lamination thickness and copper fill to work out a therotical maximum power I'm thinking around 48v at 30 amp for 1400watt peaks on stock windings if I open the side of the case up with angled holes but that is pushing it big time im hoping the 4 motors will be helping each other with the torque demand so they won't get so hot I may just be lucky.
 
Ianhill said:
The rear end is a sealed unit, a very steep reduction with loads of slop and a locked rear end, the cogs look to weak fir any power a boma would shread them in no time I like everyone's idea to go full on and build a super fun death trap but this has 200mm wheels that's very small and it has no brake other than electric.

Researching the hub motor I find it has 30 magnets around L40/D2/W6mm 27 stator poles that hold 15 turns 4 stands 0.3mm wire. aaabbbcccaaabbbccc with room for a bit more fill.

With any chinese lego motor there's a bit of variety so when I recieve them I'll get a kv rating and give accurate specs on the magnets used lamination thickness and copper fill to work out a therotical maximum power I'm thinking around 48v at 30 amp for 1400watt peaks on stock windings if I open the side of the case up with angled holes but that is pushing it big time im hoping the 4 motors will be helping each other with the torque demand so they won't get so hot I may just be lucky.

All you care about is the axle shaft. Pull off the rest of the garbage parts. Put a t8f sprocket on the shaft and you are golden for driving a BOMA. Of course I'd want some other motor besides a BOMA, but hey you already have that.

Do you already have the mobility chair? No wonder you chose to go that route!
 
I got the scooter already, problem with using a boma Is the t8f sprocket 55tooth is nearly same size as the wheel so I'd have to use a 44 tooth rear and that's gonna give it a top speed that is to high for its stability and my safety.

Electric god you need to get that spare 4kw hub of yours on the front of a disability trike and burn tyres out.
 
Ianhill said:
I got the scooter already, problem with using a boma Is the t8f sprocket 55tooth is nearly same size as the wheel so I'd have to use a 44 tooth rear and that's gonna give it a too speed that is to high for its stability and my safety.

Electric god you need to get that spare 4kw hub of yours on the front of a disability trike and burn tyres out.

Hah! Yeah that would be hilarious. It will get a home somewhere, but not on a disability chair! I'm thinking of putting it in a recumbent trike. The 4kw hubbie goes in the back wheel and then if that's not enough "get up and go" then a second motor driving the front wheels via a diff.
 
Ianhill said:
I got the scooter already, problem with using a boma Is the t8f sprocket 55tooth is nearly same size as the wheel so I'd have to use a 44 tooth rear and that's gonna give it a too speed that is to high for its stability and my safety.

Do a jackshaft with a second reduction.
 
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I got the motors and opened them up to check them over and the design is OK and build quality is so so, there's a lock washer on one motor not on the other three and the windings on two have all the insulator sleeves on the other two are missing all the outers.

The bearings used are two 6003r's they are 17mm Id 35mm od 10mm depth, there's no wear at all in them so they seem more than upto the job, the laminations are not that thin I didn't measure but I'd estimate theres around 30 1mm sheets and it's a one piece design no alloy centre for heatsink just an axle with a lipped outer to align properly then a drift key to secure it

Main thing is they all work fine and after a refurb they will be better than new and perfect for my needs, Powerwise I'd say they look comparable to a my1016 brushed motor so 800w area will be max continously I'll get away with so I'm ordering 4, 48v 500w 30a controllers 12 fet with reverse that will give me upto 1.3kw bursts in max power mode so it will be over 5kw on max.

I checked the battery box and it's perfect for the 48v 20ah or 24 10ah cells I got so I can see this being quite some fun and a decent range too stock it had 24v 20ah of lead so Ive doubled my capacity and in the real world trippled the range.

I'll even keep the reverse beeper this thing has to be stock looking as can be for it to be a true sleeper wolf amongst sheep, it's not going to brake any speed records but I think with four motor's it will go anywhere
 
amberwolf said:
Ianhill said:
I got the scooter already, problem with using a boma Is the t8f sprocket 55tooth is nearly same size as the wheel so I'd have to use a 44 tooth rear and that's gonna give it a top speed that is to high for its stability and my safety.

Do a jackshaft with a second reduction.

Maybe on a mk2 version I could use a jackshaft with a 4kw boma the front tyres being powered then would be pointless specially at low speeds it would lift the front up easily, I think these four motors will give me enough pace for the chassis when they driven near their limits but it will be a while till I find out for sure but I know it will be night and day much lighter with very little to go wrong mechanically compared to stock I've moved the vulnerability to electrical so I'll make sure i get controllers from the smokeless robust China special company lol.
 
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