World Wide Electric Bike 36v kit, Fusin gearmotor review

[HTB_Terry]

The "speeds" are current limit settings, which is a handy feature. Very simple to implement in software. You can verify this by measuring the current when going up a hill. Take three readings, one per setting. I'd guess they are 8, 12, and 16 amps. The controller may or may not support regen. Any controller will pass some current to the battery through the internal diodes in the power mosfets. All gearless motors become generators when you turn them. Geared motors will engage the gears when turned backwards so they will generate in that case. When testing the hall sensors on geared motors, you might have to turn them backwards. So if you want regen, you will have to ride down the hill backwards.

[dogman]

Hey, there's a new skill to learn, riding backwards down a hill. I suppose for a real big hill you could unbolt the wheel and put it on backwards for the decent.

Pusher trailer with a hitch that can attach either way?

We need somebody with a dd motor with halls, and a cycleanalyst to see if the controller supports regen. non of my motors have halls. I suppose it does regen, or the lights wouldn't go on spinning backwards.

[Crash Machine]

Ya I kinda thought that when I saw the lights come on. I had imagined scenarios of me stuck somewhere spinning the wheel backwards for hours trying to charge the battery. Maybe not so far fetched. I'll try it with the anylst on just out of curiosities sake. It draws 4 watts just sittin' still with the key on, so...
The variable amperage thing makes sense now. It actually feels like a torque difference. I thought it was gonna be a phase change something. I'll test this soon just to see it in application. Really cool feature.
Second cycle on the Ping. I have the Fusin battery that came stock with the kit(48v10 Ah). So I'll be able to give a good comparison. Layman's terms, WOW. Go Ping.

[dogman]

Lousipower swears that it's not a simple amp limit switch. But he wouldn't reveal exactly what it was, just hinted that it does something to the pulse duration or timing. I felt that the difference in power use that I measured by monitoring the power used to recharge was due to the slow speeds using less power than the higher speeds. To get the torque, the amp limit would have to be the same. What I could feel, did not feel like the low setting had less power, just less speed. If it was a lower amp limit, the slow setting would climb a lot worse than it does.

Personally, I am pretty impressed with it, but wish I had gotten the 48v model. One of these days, I need to get the 48v controller for my motor. Even with the gears, 350 watts is a bit weak for the steep hill I climb to get home everyday. At 48v, I belive it climbs hills a lot better. I get up them, but very slowly compared to my aotema direct drive, than has twice the wattage.

The new headway packs are pretty exciting, but Ping still has the best battery avaliable for bikes under 1000 watts in my opinion. Some others are good, but only ping has the batteries out there in the world proving a year or two of reliability. Forget the round cell spot welded batteries.

[HTB_Terry]

OK, so it sounds like a throttle override. Three fixed settings or limits. The speed is controlled by varying the pulse width, so that jives with what he said. If you limited the speed manually, does it do the same thing? Competition is good, so another economical geard motor is welcome. You should definitely run it at 48V and see if it can take the abuse that the Bafang can. The motor itself would have to be either cheaper or have some desirable feature to be chosen over the proven Bafang. The controller with it's "three speeds" seems to be a good marketing strategy.

[dogman]

The caps are too small in the 36v controller to go 48v. There is a definite torque difference in the three speeds, It's subtle and some might not notice the difference. After a whole morning going up and down the same hill over and over, I came to the conclusion that the low speed really did have more torque than the high speed setting at half throttle. I think only the 48v version will be sold by world wide in the future.

[Crash Machine]

With the 48v kit the torque difference is noticable between all three gears. On my ride yesterday I decided to tackle a paricularly steep hill near my house. All the while monitoring my cycle anylst. Well the limitation isn't in the amount of amps. It does drop the amps momentarily under load but always rose to approximately 20 amps or more no matter what the gear, finally reaching a maximum of 34.78 amps. The wattage reaches a max of 1100 give or take. What the "gears" do seem to do is change the rate that it climbs to those maximums. Low gear always kept me rolling along no matter the grade and kept me under these maximums. I tried switching to high in the steepest part of the hill and received an interesting noise,vibration for my troubles. Switching back down a gear stopped this immediately. Probably where I got the 34.78 Amax?! So can you buy new gears for these things? Seriously? Downhill I reached a max. speed of 47.8 mph and playing with the throttle and brake got me a -8.78 amp min. very briefly. This adds up to 0% regen. and 0% total amps hours regenerated. Like I said briefly. I've got over a thousand miles so far on the 48v and I run it hard so we'll see.

[louispower]

Hi, all of you might be interested in such a test of our rege controller with a driect drive motor, and here it is made by a third party customer.
http://fusinmotors.com/distribution/test-report-on-the-24v-controller-part-1-t61.html ---part 1
http://fusinmotors.com/distribution/test-report-on-the-24v-controller-part-2-t62.html ---part 2

Der-Ming from USA has tested our controller with his 24v direct drive motor and posted his findings on our controller on rege & EABS.

Also a good news, we are having tests next week on updated geared motor to make rege & EABS works better with geared motor, we will posted our test results here and also on our forums.

Thanks,

[John in CR]

Hi Louis,

I have some big direct drive hub motors along with your 36V and 48V kits. If I try to take the 48V controller to it's limits by modifying the shunt, how many amps can those FETs handle? Do I need to change them out to IRFB4110's if I want to try to go to 50 or 60 amps peak?

John

[louispower]

Hi John,

we are sorry you could not change the controller by yourself. If what I rememberd is correct, your 48v controller is one with only 6 Mosfets, while our present controller is type with 9 mosfets.

If you want bigger current please email me your motor specifications, voltage level, and peak amp you need, then we could see if we could make it for you.

Thanks,

[dogman]

Now that winter is here, I'm proceeding to do some more torturing of the 36v motor kit.

I have finally got my hands on a half decent bike with slightly better steel dropout suspension forks, and some better travel on the rear shock too. So now that I have the bike, I have installed the fusin motor on a bike for single track trail riding. So I'll be pulling lots of hills, some of them steep enough to stall the motor. I won't have to worry much about overheating the motor now that it's cool outside.

I've been dying to try this motor on trail riding, but not with 40 mm travel forks. The new bike has 60 mm, a very rare item in steel supension forks. No way I'm putting a front hub on alloy forks, even with tourqe arms.

[torker]

Dogman, What type of fork is that? I have been looking for a donor mt. bike for awhile.

[dogman]

Here's a pic of the bike I just put the Fusin on. I didn't have a pic yet last night.

Mongoose IBOC with Fusin gearmotor.jpg (80.25 KiB) Viewed 930 times

The bike was found at the flea for 20 bucks. Possibly as old as ten years, It's the next grade of bike up from the wallbikes that sell for $160 or so. The forks are 1 1/8 headtube, 60mm travel non treaded. Really rare, I looked for a year and a half for this. No marking on the fork for brand name, but the decal says Strike on the forks. Spinner makes a lot of cheapie forks for the bottom end market, so they may be spinner forks. I have seen similar forks at the LBS on Trek hardtails selling in the $350 price range, but nobody ever seems to part em out on Ebay, dangit. Similar looking forks I see on Schwinn hardtails at wallmart, but those are only 40 mm travel.

I belive the Schwinn S 5 was a similar bike and may have the same type of forks. Link has one, if you want to ask him about his forks.

[dogman]

Just got back from a ride on the mountain trails nearby. I'm really happy how the Fusin performed. With weather in the mid 50's F, the motor never got very hot at all, but I pushed it pretty hard. the first 3 miles from the car climb hard, some of the dips in the gullies might be as steep as 25%. With energetic pedaling in the lowest gear, I was able to scamper up some hills I normaly have to dismount and walk. A few, like the 25% er I still had to get off part way up. The bike worked good too, I did bottom out the forks a few times, but in most cases I could ride the 5-10 mph I am comfortable with without suspension issues.

48v would have helped, but with my 36v 20 ah ping I got up 95% of the hills no problems, and I was able to ride twice as far as I would dream of on the pedals only mtb. I had a blast taking the long cut at every trail fork, and rode at least 12-15 miles. I really like the two wheel drive, with pedals driving the rear and motor driving the front. I had to learn to back off the throttle some to avoid spinning the front wheel, but on most grades, 10-15% on these trails I was able to learn to throttle just right to get power without spinning the wheel. I was using the low speed setting for the entire ride, which really does work great.

Along the way I came across a large group of riders waiting for the slower ones. Announcing that I was a cheater, I hit the throttle and threw gravel all over. Man they were all eyes and facinated. I let some of them take a spin, and they were all just blown away how easy they could climb. They were all testing it on a short but very steep hill, and just couldn't believe it. Then they'd try to pick up the bike, and couldn't belive the weight either .

[Russell]

And now the other side, with the magnets and halls visible,

fusin magnets and rotors 500 miles.jpg (83.51 KiB) Viewed 829 times

Now I see an advantage to the Fusin motor over a Bafang. The Fusin motor has a circuit board for the hall sensors which is much cleaner than the bunched up hall wiring on the Bafang and GM Mini Motor.

Bafang hall wiring damaged after 3,000 miles (red wire upper right)

Bafang 014.jpg (96.43 KiB) Viewed 828 times

GM Mini (Bafang) red/blk bundled wires (top) melted once but were repaired

MiniMotor 002.jpg (92.54 KiB) Viewed 828 times

-R

[dogman]

Yeah, that is a little cleaner on the Fusin. I'm amazed at what abuse Crash Machine's Fusin has taken without melting or smearing a gear. He rides a cargo bike! But the 36v version of the Fusin is just a bit anemic for me climbing the big hill home. The 48v version has a lot more power with a higher amp controller. Time to solder the shunt on mine. and see if that helps.

[amberwolf]

FWIW, more than two years later, this motor is still alive and almost kicking, though I managed to crack the clutch under startup load; there was enough room inside to put a hose clamp on the clutch to hold it together well enough to get me almost home (over 15 miles!).
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