A2B Metro - www.ultramotor.com - Video Page4

[The Stig]

Aha, I see. Well anyone know if I'm going to connect the a2b batteries in series do they need a diode connected to each battery in parallel to bypass the a BMS if one of them trips?

[Ypedal]

Update on the Metro:

http://ypedal.com/A2B/a2b2.htm

-New brake pads
-Gel Seat
- EVO pedals.

Working on a 6v Booster !!

[deVries]

the controller has to be bypassed to up the performance on the Metro.. it soft starts and limits current up to aprox 10 km/h, keeping power below 500w, then above 10km/h peaks up to 1000w.... i tried it at 48v and the top speed is higher but the soft start is still ever present and limitting.. only way around it as far as i can tell right now is to open up the motor and gut out the controller, run wires outside the hub and juice it up.

The motor has lots of potential.. it's just starved to legal power.

I rode my first commercial eBike today... the 2010 A2B. I was really disappointed in its hill climbing ability & its slow-soft start -pickup/acceleration is slow. Also, I think those "flat shaped" Kenda tires ride weird (not rounded enough) vs reg. bicycle tires I'm used to riding on.

Ypedal, if I could get an extra A2B motor would it fit in the front A2B dropout? I assume "no", since the front dropout is probably 100mm??? The guy has an extra A2B motor, so maybe I could get good performance if I used 2 of these if it would work in the front fork too OR, is the A2B Front Fork too weak to take an extra motor anyway?

I could use a different geared motor too, but I don't know if the sus-fork could take it??? Someone with a high post count on ES says with torque arms on both front fork arms, if it's a decent sus-fork, says motors can safely be mounted in sus-forks too

Any ideas or comments

[Ypedal]

Anything over 36v 20amps should be on the rear imo, yes i've done 48v setups on front forks but after having had a few " incidents " over the years, i'm now firmly against anything high power on the front fork.

The A2B motors are all rear as far as i know, for 135mm / 150mm(disk) so putting them on a front fork it out..

The motors themselves are capable of good power, but the internal controller needs to be bypassed.. !!

[chroot]

Have you tried use 9C or xlyte motor on A2B with Lyen controller? It probably too much work upgrade or major work on electric wiring setup.

The motors themselves are capable of good power, but the internal controller needs to be bypassed.. !!

[Ypedal]

I have plenty of other bikes in my collection with high power, the A2B will be left alone until the internal battery fails or something smokes, if i still own it by then i till get modded, but not for now since i primarily use it for friends and wet weather commuting

[deVries]

Anything over 36v 20amps should be on the rear imo, yes i've done 48v setups on front forks but after having had a few " incidents " over the years, i'm now firmly against anything high power on the front fork.

The motors themselves are capable of good power, but the internal controller needs to be bypassed.. !!

Thanks for noting your experience w/FF. Were you using two torque arms on the FF?

Do you know of examples of FF failures when using 2 torque arms

Have you decided to bypass your controller yet & just "upgrade" Or, you don't really want to do that mod before "failure" repair EDIT: Ahhh, I see your reasoning & answer here:

if i still own it by then i till get modded, but not for now since i primarily use it for friends and wet weather commuting

[chroot]

Oh I understand, sound good plan and let us know whenever your A2B starts modding in the future.

[Ypedal]

I've had 3 incidents in all involving front forks, 1 was expected and failed while power testing with wheel of the ground, applied brakes and whamo... the other 2 were on solid thick flat acceptable forks that should not have failed and i tightened the axle nuts personally and know for a fact they were tight but still spun out ( caused by fork flex ) .. neither had torque arms at the time....

regardless, anything over 500w needs to go on the rear imo.

[oatnet]

regardless, anything over 500w needs to go on the rear imo.

+1

[wymjymn]

I need to replace my 68-406 Kenda Kraze tires that are oem on my A@B.
I have found some available but have a sizing question.
The Kenda Kraze went out of production in 2009~10. The Kenda Flame 68-406 is available here and there. A Swiftor 76-406 appears to be a more conventional (rounded edges) tire. All tires carry a 20 x 3.0 designation.
Can I draw any accurate size information from the 68.406/76.406 etrto sizing with regard to the actual tire size???
I ask as there is only room to increase the diameter of the rear by 3~4mm before I have fender to tire interference.

Any advice would be appreciated..

And Ypedal….are you suggesting that the screw mount to the rear swing , near the pivot, is the area that allows for the transfer of NOISE?.....and if yes, just jbweld the fender to that mount area?

wj

[The Stig]

Anybody have any idea if the a2b batteries could work with Regen? Both batteries will be wired in series for 72V and the controller is a lyen.

Would bypassing the BMSs for discharge/regen be a bad idea?

What would ya'll say was the best and lightest available direct drive motor to run in the A2B at 72V 30A? I wanted a sensord rear HT2425 but they're not available yet

[Ypedal]

Depends on what you expect from it but a 9C motor on an A2B frame would be ok.. if mine quits before i sell it it's getting an X5 !... If the controller quits i gut it and keep the stock motor with an external controller... if the battery quits first i'll flip a coin..

I would not push too much regen into the stock A2B battery and certainly not push it at 30 amps, they are Sanyo 18650 cells of the high capacity variety not high-rate cells, the 11ah pack does ok at 20 amps but would suffer at 30.

[The Stig]

Yeah I'll probably be Setting the limit between 25A-28A.

I'll see if I can get a 9C in europe but I'll need new spokes too. But that means regen and hopefully I can limit the regen to something like 10A.

The lyen controller program has this parameter which probably for limiting the regen amps:
"EBS Level (optional)
This is to select the strength of electric braking system"


X5 on an a2b huh. Are you gonna put shove lipo in the frame?
I have my old stock motor lying around gather dust...

[Ypedal]

Alright, it's October and weather sucks balls right now.. supposed to clear up a bit by the weekend but man it's rough right now........

Rainy day project, add a few more volts to the " A " pack !!!

10ah PSI lifepo4 cell !

[Ypedal]

45v ! woot !

it's not much, but it will help with sluggish top speed ! i expect a few more kph !

If nothing fails within a few rides, i'll add 3 more volts !

[wymjymn]

so what top speed increase have you seen?...does it hurt the initial roll on acceleration?

wj

[Ypedal]

Ok, i did not want to post results until i had a chance to run this for a while.. since it's been pouring rain for the last 3 days commuting to work i've had that chance.. and results.

The acceleration is not much changed at all, it's still soft start as usual, but the top speed is a tad faster, since the operating voltage is 3v higher it results in aprox 2 to 3 kph improvement in top speed. Hey, every bit helps ! lol.

The throttle Led's are wired directly to the A pack, so un-affected by increased voltage to the motor controller.

Tonight, i add 3 more volts !

Bottom line here, the A2B is not meant for high speed, it handles like a tank ( compared to my other bikes ) so going 50 kph on this thing is certainly not a good idea.. 35 kph ok.. 40 max imo.. maybe with better tires.

[pjpeter]

:lol:

Question: Do you have any details on that Jeep bike? I have what could be an identical bike I was considering electrifying - I wasn't sure though how it would work out and if i could even find a rear rack for it. It'd be great to hear a bit more on it - I've also been considering whether to get an A2B Metro for 1900 CAD so it's great to see the side by side comparison.

Thanks,
Peter

[Ypedal]

Hmm.. i know i have a full folder of pictures from this build but canot find it.. only one i have on hand right now is this :

jeep.JPG (66.39 KiB) Viewed 1425 times

came together nicely, the rear rack was already on the bike when i got it for conversion.

Well, update on the A2B, the charger fan finally quit after 2 years, it may be victim of dog hair but i dont think so, i usually make sure the area is clear before turning it on .. but will investigate today..

[pastaisfood]

I'm looking at a used A2B metro today. As an ebike noob, is there anything in particular I should be looking for?

[The Stig]

Test what the capacity of the battery is to see if its still in good shape.

[pastaisfood]

Well, I bought it, $700. Seems to be in good shape, we'll see how the battery does!

[AussieJester]

Well, I bought it, $700. Seems to be in good shape, we'll see how the battery does!

WoW!!! fantastic price, i honestly would pay
that just for the bike without electrics, i really
like the frame on these, well suited to a non-hub
drive, would love to see an astro3220/recumpence drive
on one..:: hint hint :: YPeDaLMaN

KiM

[The Stig]

I recently finished hooking up the two A2B batteries in series using a Diode in parallel with each battery and I nice relay for my on off switch. However I am having intermittent current issues. The motor runs smoothly no load, but stutters and is underpowered when under load. If I disconnect one of the batteries and run it at 36V it runs smoothly. It's probably the BMS. Does anyone know if theres a way to remedy this and avoid bypassing the BMS during discharge?

Link to new topic about the issue: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=35078#p511018