Tppacks.com, Zippy Lipo 48v 15ah, LVC and Hyperion 1420i

[visuthdy]

I'm pretty confident that it's wired connected correctly. I followed the tppacks.com connection diagram example for 12S2P as described.
I guess my batteries are toasted . I read another member's thread under "battery technology" topic that happened the exact same way.
I saw this dead lipo recovery method on youtube http://youtu.be/DrpRn2Os-fA Have you ever tried it?

[Ypedal]

Do not follow that guy's advice..... seriously man..

*(i only watched half of that video, and i know what he's doing will result in the charger allowing lipo mode by bumping up the voltage in nimh mode.. ) he's got a tiny pack and only 2 cells.. your MUCH LARGER PACK = much bigger boom if shit goes wrong during the process.. and it very likely can. ( the guy was using an ESD bag as a lipo safety bag lmao.. had no clue what nimh or pb stands for .. and he's giving advice on lipo handling. )

If your packs are visibly puffed and at 0v, sorry man but it's over.. get new packs but dont hook it all up until you find what caused this failure.

- was the pack left connected to the controller ?

- Was the e-brake signal every hooked up at any point in time? Could you have plugged it in wrong at any point in time in your quest to make the system work ?

more details on what has happened are needed.

and i'd still like clearer pictures of how you have the main power leads hooked up..

[amberwolf]

A couple of weeks ago, I was able to to connect the 12S2P that output 45V. I had left the battery connected and now all four of my 6S packs are swelled up and not producing any voltage, not even powering up the CA.

Question: were they only at 45V at full charge? Because that sounds pretty low, nearly discharged (at best about half full?) for 12S LiPo, at only about 3.75V/cell. Normally full charge would be closer to 49.2V (4.1V/cell) up to 50.4V (4.2V/cell).

If they were left connected to the controller and CA, when that low a charge state, it probably would not take very long for them to discharge down to the "cliff" state, and be taken all the way down to nothing from there.

Assume 150mA (possibly a lot more) used by a controller in idle, plus the CA. Each hour, that's 150mAh. 10 hours would be 1.5Ah, a whole day would be 3.6Ah, which is probably a lot more than they had left in them if they were at 45V to start with.

Assuming normal full capacity of 10Ah at full charge of 4.2V/cell, you would only have a bit less than 3 days of idle power, even then, at 150mAh idle consumption.

So there might not actually be anything "wrong" other than not having enough power to be able to just leave them connected like that for any length of time.

[visuthdy]

Ypedal,
Yes, the pack was left connected to the controller. The e-brake signal was never hooked up. Pics is clearer detail of how the power leeds are hookup up.

IMG_20111208_080952 (1).jpg (79.88 KiB) Viewed 639 times

IMG_20111208_080815.jpg (64.21 KiB) Viewed 639 times

amberwolf,
No, the battery pack was never fully charged. In fact, I have never charged it since I received it from hobby king. I just hook up the batteries to test my electronics RC throttle/castle creation controller, and astro motor. I could not get the motor to turn so I just left everything connected and didn't get back to it until a few days later. Now, I know that was a huge mistake on my part to have everything connected. I just need to remember to disconnect the battery when not in the future.

[olemetry]

Sorry for my ignorance, but what is an "electronics RC throttle/castle creation controller, and astro motor"? It sounds awesome!

[Ypedal]

Sorry for my ignorance, but what is an "electronics RC throttle/castle creation controller, and astro motor"? It sounds awesome!

See pages 1, 2, 3 and 4

http://ypedal.com/RC/RC.htm
http://ypedal.com/RC/RC2.htm
http://ypedal.com/RC/RC3.htm
http://ypedal.com/RC/RC4.htm

[pdf]

I'm pretty confident that it's wired connected correctly. I followed the tppacks.com connection diagram example for 12S2P as described.
I guess my batteries are toasted . I read another member's thread under "battery technology" topic that happened the exact same way.
I saw this dead lipo recovery method on youtube http://youtu.be/DrpRn2Os-fA Have you ever tried it?

I tried this several months ago actually, without seeing the video. I left a low Ahr pack on the controller with the soft switch on the controller off. I would like to poll people to find out how much power their controllers pull when they are connected to the battery but switched "off". Anyway, I had used the pack and left it connected for a couple of weeks and the pack was dead. I connected the packs one at a time in, I think NiCd mode or some mode that allowed you to charge without the charger checking the pack voltage for low voltage. IThe plan was to get it up to the point where it could be charged in LiPo mode properlyl. Nothing blew up, nothing puffed significantly, and eventually the pack did come back to the point I could use the LiPo mode. However, there was a dead cell (see more below) that would not come back. I don't see any serious problem with this but DO IT OUTSIDE!!!! and don't be stupid. Get away from anything flammable and have a bucket of sand ready. Although I'd bet nothing will happen. After charging a little at a time, check the individual cell voltages. And only try one pack at a time.

When I looked at the cell voltages (I had three 6s packs in series on the bike) after finally getting it up to a voltage that I could use the LiPo mode with, the same cell (the number 2 cell as numbered by the charger) was dead in each pack and the other cells seemed to be OK; the pack voltages were low because one cell was dead in each pack. I made a pretty significant attempt to take the packs apart and replace the bad cell in two of the packs with a good cell from the other one. In short, it is harder than you think. It is pretty tricky to get a pouch out of a pack with the tabs intact. If I wanted to do it again, I would order a new cell (found out later you could do this) and just carefully cut out the bad cell and replace it with the new one in each pack. Although I have to say, although I am a pretty persistent do-it-yourselfer, in the end it just wasn't worth it. Depends on the value of your time. You also need a pretty large soldering iron to generate enough heat; there is a lot of solder on the battery tabs.

So you can go ahead and try it OUTSIDE on the ground away from anything that burns, but I don't think it will work. Look at the individual cell voltages. If one is zero, I think the chances of recovering it are very poor. Either replace the bad cell or get a new pack, that would be my advice, although I don't think it will hurt as long as you aren't careless about it.

[visuthdy]

Hi Ypedal,
I just purchased some four new lipo from HobbyKing. They are the Tunigy 6S 5000mah 20C batteries. I want to make sure that I don't screw up the batteries this time. Can you share your hyperion EOS1420i charger configuration set up? I'm using a Meanwell 24V power supply. I know yours is pack is different. I'm more worried about the "charge current" and "batt capacity" setting. Any insight you may have would be great. I tried searching in the battery technology but I was not to fine the exact answer.

Batt Type = Lipo
Batt volts = 22.2 Vpack (6S) or 12S for 12S2P bulk?
Batt Capacity = 5000 mAh (6S) or 10000? for 12S2P bulking?
Charge Current = ?
Temp Cutoff =
Safety Timer =
TCS Capacity = 95%
TCS End Action = Stop
TVC =
Discharge Amps =
Discharge Volts =