Crystalyte HS4080 72V 50A APM Display kit

sardini

100 W
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
148
Hello all

First mail with kenny from Crystalyte 23/7/2012, Ordered 25/7/2012, delivered 23/8/2012 express (3 days)
Communication was fine.
There is the unpacking video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CmfC4lWV5E[youtube]4CmfC4lWV5E[/youtube]
This my 1st ebike
Price paid $1429.00 (without customs tax (300$) ,express (3 days) $356.00,and wire transfer payment 30$.

Battery should be better packed

HS4080 rear wheel motor + 31mm 26" Double Wall Rim without Eyelets + 12G Spokes + Wheel/motor assembly
72V 48A Digital sensor controller for Crystalyte APM
Crystalyte APM Display
Twist grip throttle with No battery indicator
Electric brake cut off switch
Cruise function in APM display
72V 20ah Lithium Battery + battery bag + Key switch with harness wiring with charging port
72V 5A 220V AC battery charger for 72V 20ah Lithium Battery
Jacket for Connectors 6

Thanks kenny

Weights and more videos next post
 
Crystalyte kit delivery part two
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dg85bSA-VTU&feature=youtu.be
[youtube]dg85bSA-VTU[/youtube]

Battery Weight(kg)
Battery Weight.jpg
Motor weight(kg)
Motor weight_.jpg
 
The disk brake clearance was poor for my shimano deore hydraulic disc brake

So i had to put Screws with nuts for spacers

spacers.JPG

View attachment 8

And some washers at the other side

washers.JPG

And here is the Bike
bike.JPG




Another problem is the side bolts the are really soft

bolts.JPG

look the one in the middle no cup

I was trying to install the BBQ thermometer (tip from our guru Doc)

bbq temp sensor.JPG

BBQ thermometer .JPG

And after on hour of drilling i found that there is not enough space for the wire

View attachment 3

no space 2.JPG

View attachment 1

The side cover is from aluminium

So no BBQ temp sensor no speed test

I will try to install a wireless sensor
 
Kenny told me this was a single speed only motor because of width? I assume that is not the case from your pictures. Now I'm confused.

Tom
 
Tom i have install a really cheap 6speed cassette.you can't use the first gear but the otherswork like a charm .
My dropout is 135mm
Stef
 
Good to know. Looking forward to hearing your report on how you like it.

Now go have fun with it.

Tom
 
very beautiful hub motor, what is the top speed you can get easily On flat ? i saw that hub look great. have you tested and got your top speed ?

kent
 
hi Rodney
your 3580 was very impressive speed at 88.5kmh. the 3580 was a request custom build hub motor? i was wonder what is the difference between 4080 and 3580.

ken
 
kentlim26 said:
hi Rodney
your 3580 was very impressive speed at 88.5kmh. the 3580 was a request custom build hub motor? i was wonder what is the difference between 4080 and 3580.

ken
the only difference is the extra 5mm of stator for the 4080. And the extra torque from the 4080 because of the wider stator and magnets
 
hi, your bike looks hot ..do yo like it? i m looking to get 72v kit ... how fast is goes ? do you get good mileage on 1 charge ,let us know ..thx
 
Trackman417 said:
kentlim26 said:
hi Rodney
your 3580 was very impressive speed at 88.5kmh. the 3580 was a request custom build hub motor? i was wonder what is the difference between 4080 and 3580.

ken
the only difference is the extra 5mm of stator for the 4080. And the extra torque from the 4080 because of the wider stator and magnets


Hi Ken

As trackman said the only difference is in the 5mm in the stator. The only reason I went for the 3580 over the 4080 was the fact that it was single speed. Interesting that you managed to get a 6 speed cassette to fit.

Rod
 
Yeah the H40 series motors do have the singe speed freewheel problem. I just realized how important multiple speeds were when I blew a fuse 2.5 miles away from home and I had to peddle up and down hills. Long story short.... It sucked :p
 
i don't think you have a chance of feeding that stainless bbq wire thru the motor. remove the tip and you will see the sensor attached to two wires. the stainless is one of them. i think you probaly don't want it in contact w/ the motor axle or bearing...

for phase wire upgrades, you need to grind the slot for more room, but if i were you, since you're not doing a phase wire upgrade and just want to feed the wire thru, i'd get some 28g teflon wire and use it instead. you'll have to solder the ends at the sensor... i used a different sensor in the motor, so this was just to attach on the controller.. from here.
20120824_083319.jpg
 
GCinDC said:
i don't think you have a chance of feeding that stainless bbq wire thru the motor. remove the tip and you will see the sensor attached to two wires. the stainless is one of them. i think you probaly don't want it in contact w/ the motor axle or bearing...

for phase wire upgrades, you need to grind the slot for more room, but if i were you, since you're not doing a phase wire upgrade and just want to feed the wire thru, i'd get some 28g teflon wire and use it instead. you'll have to solder the ends at the sensor... i used a different sensor in the motor, so this was just to attach on the controller.. from here.
20120824_083319.jpg


Thank you
It is too hard to pull this out. how i will push it back i should find a hydraulic press from a local garage ? the rolling bearing and the axle will survive ?
Copy of no space2.JPG

Copy of no space.JPG



Thank you
 
Yeah, its a pain. No one ever told me how to cope so I just found my own way.it would have been great if the bearing stayed in the side cover when pulled off.but it often doesn't. In this case I found my 6"gear puller wouldn't fit unless I ground the tips to fit.so in that pooch you can see a bit of where I marked to cut. Anyway, you should be able to pull the bearing off that way. I found I needed to tape the jaws shut too btw, or get a friend to help... Now, removing the bearing may cause the white braided nylon to year but it shouldn't be bad and I doubt it will affect the wires beneath.once it budges it should slide off easy. Or easier. It won't pull the wires out.just below the bearing is a90 degree bend of the wire.if you are upgrading you'll need to grow that part of the slot...

Once you be modified the wiring, put the bearing in the side cover. Heat the race with a torch, lay the bearing over the hole, put a piece of scrap wood on top and smash it with a hammer. my method...

Don't think off doing this with the wire in there btw. You gotta remove the hall connecter and fleece the wires out beforehand.

Out may need too late but I am going to mark my side covers with scratches so I screw then back exactly where they were. I've sometimes fourteen an unwanted wobble and suspect gnd side cover position odds important..

G luck
 
GCinDC said:
Yeah, its a pain. No one ever told me how to cope so I just found my own way.it would have been great if the bearing stayed in the side cover when pulled off.but it often doesn't. In this case I found my 6"gear puller wouldn't fit unless I ground the tips to fit.so in that pooch you can see a bit of where I marked to cut. Anyway, you should be able to pull the bearing off that way. I found I needed to tape the jaws shut too btw, or get a friend to help... Now, removing the bearing may cause the white braided nylon to year but it shouldn't be bad and I doubt it will affect the wires beneath.once it budges it should slide off easy. Or easier. It won't pull the wires out.just below the bearing is a90 degree bend of the wire.if you are upgrading you'll need to grow that part of the slot...

Once you be modified the wiring, put the bearing in the side cover. Heat the race with a torch, lay the bearing over the hole, put a piece of scrap wood on top and smash it with a hammer. my method...

Don't think off doing this with the wire in there btw. You gotta remove the hall connecter and fleece the wires out beforehand.

Out may need too late but I am going to mark my side covers with scratches so I screw then back exactly where they were. I've sometimes fourteen an unwanted wobble and suspect gnd side cover position odds important..

G luck


I will try this THANKS

I want to thnx DOC for his pm msgs
 
i just looked at your unboxing vids.

that looks like a hell of a kit. your first? that's gonna be fast!

i've never seen a lipo pack built up like that. is that a bms on it? any idea if it's 20s? great to get the charger too. looks good. be careful with the AC in part. that can be a bit flaky. it loosens up and you might think you're charging but don't.

what the APM Display?

i know it's hard to think about it but drilling holes in that side cover could help tons in cooling it.

are you in greece? i saw the prosehi label. pretty lush tho. northern greece? or peloponnese?

g
 
GCinDC said:
i just looked at your unboxing vids.

that looks like a hell of a kit. your first? that's gonna be fast!

i've never seen a lipo pack built up like that. is that a bms on it? any idea if it's 20s? great to get the charger too. looks good. be careful with the AC in part. that can be a bit flaky. it loosens up and you might think you're charging but don't.

what the APM Display?

i know it's hard to think about it but drilling holes in that side cover could help tons in cooling it.

are you in greece? i saw the prosehi label. pretty lush tho. northern greece? or peloponnese?

g

I don't Know for fast but am really excited about this project .

It seems to be 20s 2p (4.2v per cell) . i think it is a bms and it balances the cell during charge (it has a charging port ) check the specs also.
View attachment Quentin Battery Specification 72V MCN.pdf


The APM DISPLAY monitors Speed/RPM/Current/Torque/Watt/Efficiency
and letting you tune the controller

View attachment APMDisplay_Owners_Manual_V2.pdf

So my friend i bought all the tools wish me luck for the BBQ sensor project


Its cool you find out that i am from Grecce its Athens actually.
 
se parakalo vrai paithaki mou, please, please, please don't ride that until you get some torque arms on it!

i looked at the pics but don't see any. if you even try it, you will get excited and open the throttle too far and the motor will spin in the axle and rip the wires and make you very, very unhappy. most of us have done it! don't let it happen to you!

i can't believe you bought a vice! :mrgreen: it's not necessary but it will help.

you might also need some jbweld to attach the bbq sensor inside the motor, under the windings. you don't want it to slip around...

those screws are terrible! i agree! i just broke one and now it's stuck ... :x

good luck!
 
GCinDC said:
se parakalo vrai paithaki mou, please, please, please don't ride that until you get some torque arms on it!

i looked at the pics but don't see any. if you even try it, you will get excited and open the throttle too far and the motor will spin in the axle and rip the wires and make you very, very unhappy. most of us have done it! don't let it happen to you!

i can't believe you bought a vice! :mrgreen: it's not necessary but it will help.

you might also need some jbweld to attach the bbq sensor inside the motor, under the windings. you don't want it to slip around...

those screws are terrible! i agree! i just broke one and now it's stuck ... :x

good luck!

Xaxaxaxa that was a nice one (se parakalo vrai paithaki mou)

I won't . i am waiting torque arms from doc, but am thinking order from http://www.ebikes.ca until doc is ready thanks

I bought new allen screws... but to say it right the guy in the tool store told me that they had glue on them and i should have warm them with a torch before unscrew .. i will try the other side and i post it officially .
Thanks again.
 
My 72v 20A Expedition Battery fits in the triangle!

http://ex-battery.com/Html/About1.asp?ID=50



The battery actually fits in the triangle !!! and you can even petal !!
Now the bike has much much much better handling!!

2012-09-06 19.10.51.jpg
 
I found a five speed cassette it was made for a race bike originally. The space between the gears is less than the MTBs cassettes .
its a little trickier to change gears but with a small spacer i can use the first gear also!.

IMG_3111.jpg

IMG_3112.jpg

IMG_3113.jpg

IMG_3115.jpg
 
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