I decided to give the old mac motor a whirl from em3ev and surprisingly didnt find much info on it here through search terms "mac motor". Anyway I thought I would splurge down a few details incase someone finds them helpful to decide what they want from a product and its ease of fitment. I have been contacted by another member from the uk for info on my purchase so guess he couldnt find what he needed either.
Purchase and delivery
Went onto http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=common/home picked my 10t 36v motor from the pic'n'mix section. Selected double phase wires (Ie two runs of standard cable not 1 strand at double thickness per phase), two freewheels with 11t smallest procket 9 and 7 speed, freewheel removal tool, usb cable, 40a infineon 3077, torque arm, alex dh rim option, extra throttle for spares, temperature probe and sal 2-4week delivery at £68.
Just shy of 4 weeks later (not bad over xmas and new year ) It arrived very well packaged with no damage. My conhismotor arrived pretty beat up and scratched. No instructions included but when I got stuck and googled the infineon controller on image search it took me back to em3ev to the controller section where the wires are labelled in a picture.
It was all automated and cost £395 going up to £411 with a paypal charge. I had previously asked 4 questions via the websites enquiry section but got no response (maybe i misstyped my email or something). To this day the order status says pending and the only aknoweldgement I got was that money had been taken by paypal. A dispatch email would be nice for people who dont know where cellman lives and get nervous buying online ha ha.
Installation on dh mountain bike
Pulled off my conhis DD slapped in the new wheel with the 9spd freewheel with the washer that looks to have been included to space the frame just right (it looks like a modded lock washer with the lug shaved off so it fits in the small freewheels slot). Spread my frame by 3mm max with very very minimal force at all.
Wires are shorter than my conhis but easily reach up to my cross bar as its a 14" frame and should handle the amp load better. My conhis wires got hot and melted at the terminals once running 36v into a 24v hub. If you have a 22"frame and want your controller on top of the cross bar it may be a stretch or position rethink needed.
Chopped and changed a few terminals to match my bikes ancillaries and ham fisted my standard 3 pin throttle plug into the infineon's 5 pin block easily for now.
Make sure you select ignition off while connecting the battery or you get an inrush pop. I used a 24v bulb anyway until I knew the correct sequence. Talking of popping I slipped with my voltmeter probe into my headways balancing multi pin slot and blinded myself as it got destroyed. I also turned my fingers a funny colour oops 3am isnt a good time for soldering games.
I had a 205mm disc laying around (Hope do them and 225mm ones), as you do. I think it made fitment easier work than trying to space the standard disc away from the hub to allow for the caliper to fit down the narrow gap and then have to move the caliper outwards somehow also. So I just bolted the disc on spaced my caliper upwards 30mm and bang it fits with at least 1mm clearance from the hub ha ha. I think it has something like 15mm clearance for the caliper between the disc and hub which didnt cut it for my shimano hydraulic unit. Cable activated calipers may have better luck if you need discs like I do. This way it sits proud of the hubs body and needs no spacing on the disc or realignment of the caliper (to the left anyway).
Here is the semi finished project. I still have a few things to do like battery protection and reducing the size of that huge bag. Although it is a good place for stuff and my datatool alarm and imobiliser from a smashed up motorbike. It beeps if you even touch it
Short test ride of 3 miles
Its criminal but I only had time for a quick test and now its snowing but will put some miles on it soon. I have no idea what my 40a controller is set to. It has three speeds. At a total guess it felt like 10a on slow 15med and 20ish high (I think I am talking battery amps here not phase amps as I am comparing to the ah draw on my conhis) but I was babying my new batteries. People say you dont need to but as someone who has observed heat and extra sag from the first few heavy uses, I will now take it easy. I have only had packs play up that got hit hard right out the box.
I used 1700mah of my 10.000mah pack over 3 miles and guess at a 20 mile range with some assist. I can update this when the sun comes out.
It felt grunty as a lowish rpm motor should and noise was only audable at lower speeds.
My battery consists of 12x10ah lifepo4 headway cells strung together with 12mm threaded grub screws carefully installed to avoid uneveness and cell damage. They have 5mm glazing foam underneath, wipping twine to support end cells with no metal plate and finally strung onto the frame and gorilla glued to prevent any chance of twisting round. I will probably cover them up at some point but I like the naked look for now lol.
Oh yeah the spokes are painted black and look nice and weather proof. They are spoked on the inner side of the left and outer side of the right flange. They are nice and tought. I build my own front wheel 14 years ago and is as perfectly straight as the day I made it. This wheel was very very close to my own standards of building regarding tension and trueness. I really thought I was going to be let down on this aspect and was pleasantly surprised I didnt have to tweak it.
I have high standards and I am a mechanical perfectionist. So to say I was 90 percent pleased with the transaction and quality of parts supplied is a big thing from me. I am only left wanting to know where I can get the controller software and will hopefully get a reply from cellman soon (only emailed a few hours ago). Any questions let me know and il see if I can help. I cant wait to rip up my 18% gradient hills soon!
Thanks Dan
Purchase and delivery
Went onto http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=common/home picked my 10t 36v motor from the pic'n'mix section. Selected double phase wires (Ie two runs of standard cable not 1 strand at double thickness per phase), two freewheels with 11t smallest procket 9 and 7 speed, freewheel removal tool, usb cable, 40a infineon 3077, torque arm, alex dh rim option, extra throttle for spares, temperature probe and sal 2-4week delivery at £68.
Just shy of 4 weeks later (not bad over xmas and new year ) It arrived very well packaged with no damage. My conhismotor arrived pretty beat up and scratched. No instructions included but when I got stuck and googled the infineon controller on image search it took me back to em3ev to the controller section where the wires are labelled in a picture.
It was all automated and cost £395 going up to £411 with a paypal charge. I had previously asked 4 questions via the websites enquiry section but got no response (maybe i misstyped my email or something). To this day the order status says pending and the only aknoweldgement I got was that money had been taken by paypal. A dispatch email would be nice for people who dont know where cellman lives and get nervous buying online ha ha.
Installation on dh mountain bike
Pulled off my conhis DD slapped in the new wheel with the 9spd freewheel with the washer that looks to have been included to space the frame just right (it looks like a modded lock washer with the lug shaved off so it fits in the small freewheels slot). Spread my frame by 3mm max with very very minimal force at all.
Wires are shorter than my conhis but easily reach up to my cross bar as its a 14" frame and should handle the amp load better. My conhis wires got hot and melted at the terminals once running 36v into a 24v hub. If you have a 22"frame and want your controller on top of the cross bar it may be a stretch or position rethink needed.
Chopped and changed a few terminals to match my bikes ancillaries and ham fisted my standard 3 pin throttle plug into the infineon's 5 pin block easily for now.
Make sure you select ignition off while connecting the battery or you get an inrush pop. I used a 24v bulb anyway until I knew the correct sequence. Talking of popping I slipped with my voltmeter probe into my headways balancing multi pin slot and blinded myself as it got destroyed. I also turned my fingers a funny colour oops 3am isnt a good time for soldering games.
I had a 205mm disc laying around (Hope do them and 225mm ones), as you do. I think it made fitment easier work than trying to space the standard disc away from the hub to allow for the caliper to fit down the narrow gap and then have to move the caliper outwards somehow also. So I just bolted the disc on spaced my caliper upwards 30mm and bang it fits with at least 1mm clearance from the hub ha ha. I think it has something like 15mm clearance for the caliper between the disc and hub which didnt cut it for my shimano hydraulic unit. Cable activated calipers may have better luck if you need discs like I do. This way it sits proud of the hubs body and needs no spacing on the disc or realignment of the caliper (to the left anyway).
Here is the semi finished project. I still have a few things to do like battery protection and reducing the size of that huge bag. Although it is a good place for stuff and my datatool alarm and imobiliser from a smashed up motorbike. It beeps if you even touch it
Short test ride of 3 miles
Its criminal but I only had time for a quick test and now its snowing but will put some miles on it soon. I have no idea what my 40a controller is set to. It has three speeds. At a total guess it felt like 10a on slow 15med and 20ish high (I think I am talking battery amps here not phase amps as I am comparing to the ah draw on my conhis) but I was babying my new batteries. People say you dont need to but as someone who has observed heat and extra sag from the first few heavy uses, I will now take it easy. I have only had packs play up that got hit hard right out the box.
I used 1700mah of my 10.000mah pack over 3 miles and guess at a 20 mile range with some assist. I can update this when the sun comes out.
It felt grunty as a lowish rpm motor should and noise was only audable at lower speeds.
My battery consists of 12x10ah lifepo4 headway cells strung together with 12mm threaded grub screws carefully installed to avoid uneveness and cell damage. They have 5mm glazing foam underneath, wipping twine to support end cells with no metal plate and finally strung onto the frame and gorilla glued to prevent any chance of twisting round. I will probably cover them up at some point but I like the naked look for now lol.
Oh yeah the spokes are painted black and look nice and weather proof. They are spoked on the inner side of the left and outer side of the right flange. They are nice and tought. I build my own front wheel 14 years ago and is as perfectly straight as the day I made it. This wheel was very very close to my own standards of building regarding tension and trueness. I really thought I was going to be let down on this aspect and was pleasantly surprised I didnt have to tweak it.
I have high standards and I am a mechanical perfectionist. So to say I was 90 percent pleased with the transaction and quality of parts supplied is a big thing from me. I am only left wanting to know where I can get the controller software and will hopefully get a reply from cellman soon (only emailed a few hours ago). Any questions let me know and il see if I can help. I cant wait to rip up my 18% gradient hills soon!
Thanks Dan