Dillenger 1000 Watt, 48 Volt, 10Ah, Front wheel kit

Hi, My name is Bob and I am an unfit,mid fifties,17 stone bloke in need of some exercise .

I live in Teesdale England which is very hilly so decided I needed an electric bike so that after riding away from home I could return(uphill) without having a heart attack so I bought a very second hand Cyclamatic.

It’s better than my standard Trax mountain bike but not by much as most of the hills round here are 14% or steeper so I decided to buy a 1000W kit.

After a couple of months research I decided on the Dillenger 1000 watt kit with a 10Ah battery.
http://dillengerelectricbikes.co.uk/shop/1000w-10ah-high-powered-electric-bike-conversion-kit/


It came this morning and I fitted it in a couple of hours but didn’t bother with the RPAS or brake levers yet as I wanted to know how well it would cope with the hills first.

It was an extremely simple kit to fit except that the rear rack mounting bracket was too big for my seatpost!

I made a temporary fix with some “O” rings and insulating tape and have now sourced some rubber to make a better fix tomorrow.

The battery took 3 hours to charge then it was time for a first test,wheel up in the air and throttle wide open it reached 69.5Kph which was a bit of a nice surprise.

The motor does have a bit of drag but its very little and the bike(Halfords Trax 18 speed budget mountain bike) can be pedalled unpowered without too much effort.

I should maybe point out here that the kit came with a torque arm although it was not on the kit list.

First run up the road with quite a strong side wind gave me 33.8 Kph on the flat and 24.3 Kph going up a 10% hill of about 300 metres,not bad as that was all without touching the pedals.

I then did a further 4K on slight hills pedalling with the throttle wide open and in top gear I was pedalling as fast as I could downhill to try and keep up with the motor,on the slight uphills it was still possible to stay in top gear as well.

Next I went down the 14% Billy bank and got halfway up the 24% hill at the other side(in 2nd gear but still going) when I got a puncture(in the rear wheel). I had to push the bike over a K home up the hill but it was not too bad as the kit has a “walking” setting where you hold a button on the lcd and it powers the bike at 6Kph.

I have ordered a pair of Kenda puncture resistant tyres now and they are 1.5 wide smooth tread rather than the 1.95 knobblies that were on so may give me an extra Kph or 2.

The biggest problem with the current setup is the disc brakes which are pretty pathetic but luckily there is quite a lot of engine braking when you roll off the throttle.

I will try and repair the puncture tomorrow so I can have another go but if its not successful I may install the pedal sensor so I can try that out when the new tyres come.

My goal is to be able to pedal to my local pub(3 miles away all downhill) and then be able to make it all the way home with ease.

Morning BOB, I have the 250 w Dillenger kit on my bike and it is really good. The 1000w in the front wheel would require a torque arm I think.
I have thought about one of these kits when I need abit more speed than the 250w. It will be interesting to see the top speed etc when you get it sorted.
Post up some pics.
Regards Graeme

Got pics but waiting for photobucket to sort itself out.
The kit came with a torque arm although it wasn't mentioned on the site.
I was impressed with the speed so far with the knobbly tires(at 65psi) and with me weighing over 17 stone!
I think once the new tyres are fitted it should be even faster.
It's a shame I got a puncture as I would have liked to have tested the non pedalling range out..

Before


And after (a work still in progress)



The dash


The torque arm kit that came with it

That 10Ahr battery will get you further than your 3 miles back from the local pub. You will be able to drink at some far away exotic watering holes now.

Cable ties are your friend, stuff the excess wires into that bag and it will neaten up.

Today I decided to test the batteries power so rode up and down the main road outside,3/4 flat going with hills at either end and one in the middle.
I pedalled up the hills to keep the motor going at 15mph and the results were.......

11.1 miles from fully charged to cutting out.
38 minutes riding time.
29.7Mph top speed.
17.9Mph average speed.

The front brake was dragging slightly so it worked!
The rear tyre has a slow puncture so was averaging about 35psi rather than the 65psi it should have been.
The advertised range is 12.5 miles and with the new tyres and brakes adjusted correctly I think thats achievable.
It also states that it will hold 21Mph on a 10% hill without pedalling but I think thats stretching things a bit far,new tyres coming Friday so next week we shall have the answer.

5.5 hours to charge from flat,a bit different to the claimed 3 hours.
Not a problem for me luckily.

That is a pretty fast machine you have there
I have to convert everything to Kilometers for it to make sense for me.
48 kmh is quick and averaging 29 kmh is good going, better tyres will make that even better.
The range (18 km) is not so good but I guess a 10ah battery with a 1000w motor this would be what you would expect.
When you are peddaling with the motor off is there any drag?
Have you checked the speeds with a GPS?
I do wonder about the accuracy of the supplied speedo.
Cheers, keep up the good work

There is a bit of drag from the motor but nowhere near as bad as the Cyclamatic.
I have ordered a mount for my phone/GPS and will get the correct speeds when it arrives.
I will be fitting the PAS next week so hopefully the range will be a lot more using that but you must remember I live in a very hillly area up on the moors. :wink:

Second and most important test this morning,a trip to the pub and back!
I put a new tube in this morning so both tyres are now 65psi.
The trip was 8,8 miles long (14.2K) and includes some pretty steep and long hills .
I did take my helmet cam but must have pressed the button twice as it was blank when I got home (Doh!!)..
I kept riding till the battery cut off again and got a total of 11.8 miles (19K) this time and again it took 38 minutes but at an average speed of 18.1 Mph (29.2Kph).
I used my gps this time(held in my left hand which made gear changing fun) and up to 24Mph it reads the same as the lcd but above that the lcd reported lower speeds than the gps and my maximum speed on the lcd was 33.1Mph (53.3Kph) but the gps reported 35.3 (56.8Kph).
Going under some trees at the bottom of a steep hill the gps went up to 46mph (74Kph) briefly but I think that was just a slight loss of signal.

If the battery went dead in 38 minutes it means you were drawing an average of 15.8amps which is about 750 watts. I think the motor is a 750watt motor with a peak of 1000w. Looks like you were drawing the full load that the motor can maintain without overheating, did the motor feel hot? 53kmhr is nuts.

Checked the motor a few times and it was barely warm really even at the top of the longest hill.
I am over the moon with it and once I get the new tyres on I will fit the PAS which hopefully with give me some better range.

I was looking at getting this 1000w kit but was put off by the direct drive as I like to reach 50-60kmhr downhill. I thought this motor would have resistance trying to get to these speeds so i was looking at mid drives but if you say the speed of the motor unloaded in the air is 69kmhr, this kit may just be what I'm looking for. When you reached 53kmhr did it feel like the motor was still working or slowing you down?

It didnt seem to be holding me back at all and if my bike was geared higher I could have pedalled faster.
It does have some drag unpowered but I can still pedal in 3rd gear whereas with the Cyclamatic I grind to a complete halt very quickly.
As I said it got up to 56Kph(gps speedo) down a 10% hill and that was freewheeling.

I have just fitted the PAS and it took almost 40 seconds from start to finish
The split sensor goes on the opposite side to the chainwheel and the sensor sticks to the downtube.
I shall be testing that out tomorrow.

The pas seems to work by generating a pulsing dc voltage each time the magnet moves past the sensor. I say dc (possibly diode) because it doesn't work if the magnets are flipped around, allowing you to pedal backwards without triggering the motor to go. Anyways, I've been having trouble with my pas at high cadence. When the magnets move past the sensor too fast it doesn't register and the motor cuts out. Let me know how yours goes, I'm interested to find out if it's just mine or all of them. Half a pedal triggers the motor to start.

Will do :wink:

I think one of these kits with 2 batteries might be the go.
One fitted in the triangle of the frame and the other out the back.

I really like using the PAS on my bike, in fact I disabled the throttle making it a pedal assist only bike. My ride home is an uphill grade (not too steep though) and I can do it in assist level 2 and feel fine! It definitely uses less power from the battery pack. I'll tell you this though, I had to plug the throttle back in the other day though because the arm came loose from when I installed the PAS sensor and magnet! I had the allen tool in the bag on my eZip Trailz, so I just rolled home throttle style!

yellagonga said:

The pas seems to work by generating a pulsing dc voltage each time the magnet moves past the sensor. I say dc (possibly diode) because it doesn't work if the magnets are flipped around, allowing you to pedal backwards without triggering the motor to go. Anyways, I've been having trouble with my pas at high cadence. When the magnets move past the sensor too fast it doesn't register and the motor cuts out. Let me know how yours goes, I'm interested to find out if it's just mine or all of them. Half a pedal triggers the motor to start.

Click to expand...

My pas works no matter how fast I pedal.
My legs were a blur down the biggest hill and it just kept powering.
I need higher gearing next,

Today I decided to test the PAS with a ride to the Commercial Hotel in Barnard Castle.
For this test I left the PAS in full assistance(5 on the lcd).
I also used full throttle for 1 mile to help on some really steep bits and to give my unfit body a bit of a breather.
As you can see on the map the route out was longer than the return as I went the scenic route.
I got my helmet cam to work today but it was pointed 4 foot in front of the bike!!
Tomorrow I will try and get it pointed correctly.
The total trip was 9 miles and total climb was 492 feet but again I rode up and down the main road through the village until the battery cut out...
Total mileage today was 16.4 miles (26.4K).
Total running time 58 minutes
Top speed 30.8Mph (49.6Kph).
Average speed 17Mph (27.4Kph).

The PAS cuts in after half a pedal revolution which I find ok but at first I found it a bit strange that when I wanted to freewheel the motor cut out and the bike would immediately slow down(because the first section was mostly uphill).
I soon got used to it though and found that as long as the pedals were moving the motor would keep going even if no actual effort was going to the rear wheel.

Loving the information. This kit is looking better and better. I like my 250 w kit but I am thinking one of these 1000 w kits in the rear wheel would make a fun ride.
Keep up the good work. Cheers

hell boys....
little baby 350W MAC motor on 48V and 25A 6 fet = 1200W.

I have 11AH, do best part of 60km/hr and easily will do 40km ride.....

Saw a dillinger 1000W bike here in Aus the other day was far from impressed

Like anything read more here and build something better.

Great Karl, why not use 1000V and get a million watts. (Maths not to scale) Motors are rated for their constant current draw. Sure they can go above it, but they can't hold it indefinitely. If you are pedaling you won't draw full load but manufacturers have to provide warranties. I'm glad it works for you because I have considered doing the same thing. I don't ride like it's a motor bike, I pedal so I also want to over run a motor for short periods with a thermal overload for back up.

Also, 350w motor designed for 36V will produce 622watts on 48V and will draw 12.97 amps (that's why you get longer range than a 1000w). The current and subsequent watts is limited by the impedance of the motor, no matter what the current rating of the controller is.

Sort of. There's quite a bit of headspace built in. In the rear that DD hub will take 2.5kW burst ok without too much hysteresis. It's not a Dillenger specific DD - its just another clone and there are plenty about on here.

Sticking a 1000W DD on a front fork though makes as much sense as a V12 in a FWD golf. Nor does mating it with a bottle battery.
Put a little geared motor on that thing if you want to have the "250w is enough argument" and keep it agile and matched to the bottle battery.

Hang on a minute Yellagonga, you only seem to post on three different Dillenger threads - please tell me you aren't Dillenger lurking as a regular consumer???

PAS sensor has stopped working yesterday
I shall contact Dillenger Uk customer service tomorrow and see how good there aftersales service is.
The wiring is ok and nothing has moved so thinking it may be in the controller.