Magudaman’s Off Road Build with History!

magudaman

10 kW
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Messages
695
Location
Bay Area, CA
Since I have none of my other builds here:

This thread represents my couple years of trying out different aspects of the small electric vehicle industry and what has resulted in my latest project. First I going to give some history that has lead up to this moment:

First electric vehicle is Go Motorboard x1500 which of course was only limited to road since it use solid wheels. This scooter is great, lightweight and foldable! But the drive system is friction biased and is terrible. It burns up tires quickly, especially if you use the regen system. But this was the one that started it all.

The next scooter is Shwinn Missile FS scooter. This scooter was pretty cool for some time and was my first attempt at trying to get something that had some off road characteristics.

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The full suspension and ability to have a standing position made it fun for some the simple gravel trails around my area. The scooter failed to have any real hill climbing ability since it was geared for 20mph tops and was only running around 1000w peak. So this was the first build I installed a 3 speed hub into the rear wheel of the scooter which gave me 3 speeds and better torque for hill climbing.

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After using this for about 4 months I had several failures in the 3 speed hub which required rebuilding and I finally got completely fed up and called it quits. The soft steel frame had been bent over time and I sold off what I could and cut up the rest of the frame and threw it away.

The next scooter was purchased purely because of cost. I ended up buying the Shwinn S1000 gear driven scooter.

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This scooter actually was really well build and re-instated my faith in Currie tech stuff. The motor was very powerful and surprisingly robust. They finally got the clue and were running neodymium magnets in their motor keeping it light and powerful.

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The only real weak point with this scooter was it direct gear drive. After send back one for tranny failure the new one I received was doomed from the start. With a controller upgrade and running newly acquired a123 batteries, I was running 140 amps peak at 32v.


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The amazing wheely poppin torque got my fixed and was a real blast off road with the ability to climb up anyhill.


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The tranny held up great, until I stripped the pinion gear which was also the motor shaft. If that scooter could have been #35 chain driven it would have been great.

My most recent (and still running) has been created from my fear of failing drivetrains over the years. I am now running a Crystalye 409 at 85v with around a 25 amp peak. It is mounted in a 26in wheel and on mountain bike frame. Peak wattage I usually see is about 1700 watts with a top speed of about 35 mph. This bike has held up well and is great for all my on road needs. But the bug has bit me again and I crave off road.

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SO my newest creation has some requirements.


1. I really want to use either a full suspension or downhill bike frame. I think the downhill would be best because it is strengthened everywhere, especially the rims.

2. I want lots of hill and wheelie popping torque. I have this hill in my back yard that nothing has been able to climb so far so. The S1000 was the closest but could get enough traction.

3. Must be brushless. I hate dealing with brushed core heating, inefficiency, brush failure, ect. I have seen through crystalyte how indestructible and powerful brushless can be.

4. The setup need to be chain driven. I want to be able to take this on very rough stuff with out worrying about magnets falling off inside a hub motor.

5. I will add more when I think of them

So now we are where we are today. I just purchased the first part toward this new project, THE MOTOR. This motor was too good to pass up and I felt the price was right. Here it is:

motorzk9.jpg



This is a BMC 1500w motor I am hoping to run on something like 48v 80a. It has a 7/8in shaft with a nice keyway. It appears to have built in thermresistor along with hall sensors. There is also beautiful 10 gauge wire already going into the motor.

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Here is a mock up of what I want to do, just not this bike. I really think it would be great if I could find something that has rim brakes but is disk ready. This way I can use the disk mount for a big sprocket.

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Well I was supposed to have this be a build thread but in my crunch for time never got around to it. I do have a ton of photos from building that I will try to get up here over the next couple weeks will keeping you all up to date as I continue to make changes and updates to the design and aesthetics.

During holiday season I finally got some serious time and used a ton of it to get this bike to where it is today. So last week I got the bike to a riding stage and this is what I came up with:


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closestage2.jpg


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stage1.jpg


tranny.jpg


Let me tell you it is a blast! I've been testing it with 33v 10s4p A123 packs with a top speed of about 24mph and did some riding recently running at 45v (10s4p+12v PB) and it hits around 28 mph. This is all with temp connectors and small restrictive wire in many places. I'm ordering my 16s2p Headway pack today with 100a cont. 200a peak bms, and a 600w (48v 10a) charger. I also got my high current Cycle Analyst on Tuesday too. Last ramble is I am experimenting with fiberglass panels for this project too! Gotta run and will be updating!
 
Umm, you're gonna have a cover for that chain, I hope? The kind of damage that would do to your leg...:shock:
 
Nice motor! :twisted:

I think you'd have to mount the motor to the swing arm to avoid problems with the chain length changing with compression. A BB drive might be another option.

Do you know what the rpm of the motor is?
 
fechter said:
Nice motor! :twisted:

I think you'd have to mount the motor to the swing arm to avoid problems with the chain length changing with compression. A BB drive might be another option.

Do you know what the rpm of the motor is?

Yah that is something I want to work out. I would once again like to avoid as much vibration on the motor as possible so was trying to avoid mounting it on the rear part of the frame. I am sort of wanting to model an Electric Moto Blade but with the advantage of pedals. I am hoping to contact the USA BMC design center to get some more specs on the motor. It is actually on rated for 24v and 1.3 hp. But am hearing from other sources as a 1500w and able to run upto 48v. I need some data. Keep you guys post on the project.
 
Tim O'brien at PowerPack Motors has done a fair amount of testing with that motor.
It's the big brother to the one I use on my Vego. If I can cram 6kw into a 600w motor, then if it scales, you could peak at close to 15kw input with an external controller.

Tim says that motor really pulls.

Does that one have an internal controller?

another mounting idea: you might be able to build a jackshaft that sits near the swing arm pivot. This would minimize chain length problems as well as provide double reduction.
I remember the Blade had something like this. It wasn't really a jackshaft, but a pair of sprockets with bearings stuck on a stationary shaft.

Here's a super-crude drawing:

Magudaman 2.jpg
 
Haha funny you mention Tim because he was kind enough to give me a huge write up about these motor and some other advise, he was my secrete source :roll: . I like that idea of using two sets, and I do remember seeing that on the blade's design; In fact I think the original blade had a rubber timming belt thing and then went to chain. I have to see if I can find a picture. This would also help keep my rear sprocket size down some. The motor doesn't have internal controller, it has three heavy leads running in and ran great on my sensorless motor controller from my RC. It does have two extra wire coming out of the hall sensor cluster but I think they are just a thermoresistor.
 
That motor is screaming for a 4110'd controller! I bet it would be a good match with those new Kelly brushless controllers too. Sort of a 1/2 Etek.

Too bad they don't make derailleurs for #35 chain.

Here's a pic of the Blade jackshaft. Somebody else made one similar by welding two sprockets together and pressing bearings into it. It was mounted just like an idler pulley. If you can get the center of the sprocket lined up the swing arm pivot, that would be ideal, but if it was offset by a couple of inches, I think you could deal with the chain slack.

Blade_86_gearing.jpg
 
Fecher,

Well I plan on using the new kelly controllers, especially since I recently blew up my 4110 controller (not even running at high current!!!).


SO I finally got a bike platform, sort of. I bought a bike but am going to go ahead and use it as my primary bike. I guess I'll use the Gary fisher shown above as the project donor. The replacement bike is a 2004 Giant VT3 that I ended up getting for $350. It was one heck of a deal, I was so happy. Here is a picture of the bike I bought:

04-VT3.jpg



So back to the project.

I am trying to decide if I should just sell the Gary Fisher bike. My concern has to do with the fact that the fisher bike was considered one of the lightest 5" bikes on the market when I bought it. All the tubes in the triangle are made of very, very thin aluminum so mounting may be an issue. I am afraid that if I try some sort of band mount I could crush the frame. I guess I will have to try and thinking of some ways of how to mount the motor.

The motor states CCW but can't I change the direct easy. What would the difference be? Is there something self tightening internally?
 
That looks like a good frame.

How did you blow up a 4110 controller? Other than somebody who hooked one up to the battery backward, I think this is the first report of one popping.

You can reverse the motor, but not by using the reverse switch in the controller. You need to re-map the hall and phase wires. Once you get it properly configured, it will run in reverse just like it did forward.
 
FINALLY UPDATED!!! I edited the second post up above check it out!
 
Hey nice frame!! Nice build too, that thing has got to hammer :)

You've gone a different path to me with the DH Team I got from Voicecoils (it's got a modded rear end for a hub motor).


You really got to cover that chain, I can just see blood and guts everywhere...and what happens as the suspension changes?

There's no way you could run a gear around the LH crank axle (bottom bracket)?

Anyway, congrats on getting that to work AT ALL, it's not simple.



Oh, and does yours have a really weird size bottom bracket? Like 90mm wide shell? I had real trouble when I was looking for a BB for the frame, ended up going with the original one.
 
You really got to cover that chain, I can just see blood and guts everywhere...and what happens as the suspension changes?

Well that was part of the reason for the crazy idler setup. That low linkage really sticks out when that suspension moves around so I had to put a idler very very low. Since I am not exactly directly at the pivot point I had to suck up about an 1/2in of slack. Hence my little idler/spring tensioner in the rear. Work great so far, I've rode off curbs, with the only conclusion being the need for a stronger spring. Got a 550lbs spring on the way verse the 450 I have now.

As for guards, I just got done with a foam mold for the belt side and plan to lay some fiberglass tomorrow. Then onto guards for the idlers in the middle.

There's no way you could run a gear around the LH crank axle (bottom bracket)?

Well I would have to go with a longer BB axle to have enough room between the crank and BB housing. That would be really nice and I thing that low idler is my only real serious problem because I am really worried about hitting it on something like a rock and ripping it off.
 
Update:

Got my Cycle Analyst mounted with a lighter-weight shunt and custom mount for the shunt

shunt.jpg


shun2t.jpg



I also had my first try at making some fiberglass covers to cover up the belt section, I think I might just cut this down some more and use it :)

Area that needs covered

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First try, next time don't put wax paper on the outside to hold sections down, I'll have to put a sticker there at the top:

onbike.jpg



Batteries will be here tomorrow, my weekend is planned now! Let the testing begin. Images soon to follow!
 
Who makes that shunt? I like it better then the one stocked by ebikes.ca. I need one that has a low profile like in your pic.
 
It is much thinner but it is actually longer in length and has a similar weight. You can find it here: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SNT-200/200-AMP-SHUNT-50MV-200-AMPS//1.html
 
The true 1500w motor seen in the earlier pictures is not available from anyone that I know of yet. You can get a motor rated for around 1000w continuous with a very odd 17mm shaft with a 3/16th keyway here: http://www.thesuperkids.com/15wabmcbr24m.html . According to its label it is actually only rated at 750w but that was when using the internal controller which is been bypassed giving you some extra power room. Since I am going to hopefully going be ordering some motors soon I am thinking about organizing a group buy since they are very expensive to order in small quantities.
 
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