Cowardlyducks - E-BikeE builds

Cowardlyduck said:
Update on this build.

After trying to get my spokes cut and re-threaded at 3 different bike shops and getting 3 different stories about how/why they can no longer do it, and some outrageous quotes,Anyone care to comment?
Cheers
Don't know what your after exactly but I just re-laced my Bafang CST with black spokes from this seller in Taiwan and its going pretty good.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Newson-Sporte-13G-Stainless-BLACK-Spokes-For-E-bikes-MTB-700C-/181521192560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a43819670&_uhb=1
 
TheBeastie said:
Don't know what your after exactly but I just re-laced my Bafang CST with black spokes from this seller in Taiwan and its going pretty good.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Newson-Sporte-13G-Stainless-BLACK-Spokes-For-E-bikes-MTB-700C-/181521192560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a43819670&_uhb=1
Thanks...wish I had seen them before I bought all these spokes. Would have been a less expensive mistake then.

Oh well, with a bit of time I will sort this all out anyway.

Cheers
 
AT LAST!!! :!:
P1070304.jpg


After many nights cutting and rolling new threads onto my spokes I have my 20" Allex rim radially laced to my "1000W" Golden motor. :D

Now I can start piecing together my build...hopefully it doesn't take too much longer to get an initial setup rolling. As mentioned previously, I plan to make (or get made) an 18650 pack to slip inside the frame.
For now though, I will just use what I've already got lying around and start with my old Stealth Fighter pack. No CA either to start with...that's also going to come from my Fighter, but I need to buy an Adaptto Mini-E first to replace it.

Cheers
 
briangv99 said:
Nice work CD, looks good too. Happy your persistence with the Hozan spoke machine paid off :D
Thanks Brian. Yes, I couldn't have done it without your generosity. :D
Speaking of which, I can now give you the tool back...will PM you. 8)

I started fitting out the bike yesterday. I was jerry rigging things off the bike just for testing and could not get things running for a basic test. After 2+ hours of troubleshooting, I thought I had pinpointed the cause of my motor not turning at all to a faulty throttle...then a spare throttle did the same thing.
Turns out my Infineon EB3 6 Fet controller doesn't like having really low LVC set. I had set the LVC to 10V so I could test with a PSU that maxes out at 15V, but it wouldn't run at all. Testing with my Stealth battery (~53V) didn't seem to help either. Then I re-programmed the controller back to some more realistic settings (i.e. 40V LVC, 25A max battery, 50A max phase current, etc.) and things magically started working. :mrgreen:
So glad that's all it was in the end...I would hate having to buy new parts so soon into the build.

Progress on the build should hopefully pick up in the coming day's. I'm changing jobs and have a little bit of time off in-between. :)

Cheers
 
So even before I've got this thing rolling I'm thinking of things to change...
I'm playing around with the idea of getting an ATS speed drive.
http://www.ats-speeddrive.com/tpl/all_sd_tc.html

By my calculations, with the 46t chain-ring on the bike currently, I should be able to comfortably pedal (70rpm) at 45kph with the 1.65 speed drive engaged. Without it I will max out pedaling at about 30kph. My final planned battery voltage of 57V nominal should match up nicely with the max speed with the speed drive, and if it's still to low, I can easily get a 50t or 54t chain ring up front to compensate.

Doing all the measurements, the Bike-E's BB seems to be standard size and should fit the drive no problems, but I can only find a few examples of others having done it before with the Bike-E.

Does anyone know of a place in Australia that rents out the Schlumpf tool set for installing these things?
I did find this place, but still seems to be under construction.

Cheers
 
Alan B said:
Seems like everyone who gets a BikeE considers putting batteries in the frame, but no one does it.
Thanks Alan.
We'll see about the batteries...I will just get it rolling first, then integrate the batteries, or build a new pack later on.

My handlebar configs now done. :)
I'm currently trying to figure out the best way to extend all these wires so they reach the controller.
P1070327.jpg

I plan to mount the controller towards the rear, so the stock wires definitely won't reach.

Removing the stock rear hub gears leaves a nice passage through the frame, if only I can cram all these wires through it...there's a total of 13 wires there...and I haven't even got a CA yet.

So I need a cable with lots of wires and quite compact. The old parts bin should have something...and voila!
P1070317.jpg

This DVI cable has 19 pins...but that doesn't necessarily mean 19 wires.

Fits like a glove!
P1070309.jpg


Turns out it only has 13 usable wires...good thing I only need 12 currently.
P1070318.jpg


Before I solder everything up, does anyone know of any better cables I could be using? Perhaps one with more or thicker wires, so I don't have to re-do it when get around to mounting my CA.
Or does anyone know any reason why it's a bad idea to use this kind of cable with very thin wires for extending these wires? From the looks of it they are 30awg.

Cheers
 
I think those wires should be fine. I ended up drilling out those holes out to accommodate the extra wires and I think I maybe even put one more new hole near where the old ones were. It wasn't difficult. Just realized today this is a Bike E thread. Very cool. I hope you get it going soon. While I love the MAC motor, I am keeping my eye out for a nice DD motor to put in another Bike E someday. I've never had regen on any e-bike I've put together and I'd like to play around with that.
 
StudEbiker said:
I think those wires should be fine. I ended up drilling out those holes out to accommodate the extra wires and I think I maybe even put one more new hole near where the old ones were. It wasn't difficult. Just realized today this is a Bike E thread. Very cool. I hope you get it going soon. While I love the MAC motor, I am keeping my eye out for a nice DD motor to put in another Bike E someday. I've never had regen on any e-bike I've put together and I'd like to play around with that.
Hey thanks for the comments.
The wires were/are fine. I finished soldering them all up the other day, and all handlebar controls are working fine. :)
Only issue was I made it a bit long, so had to coil it up inside the frame.
P1070332.jpg

I may shorten it later, but for now it's ok as is.

I can't say it was as easy soldering up my hall sensor wires though. To keep things consistent between my ebikes, I used a mini-xlr 5 pin connector.
$_35.JPG

Man those are a royal PITA to solder. The pins are tiny! Once it's all done however it's worth it as the connector takes up far less space, is water proof, and more robust. I did just learn the hard way however that Crystalyte and Golden motor don't use the same hall sensor colour combo...after connecting everything up! :roll:

Anyway, progress is continuing. I've been spending most spare time every day so far this week to get this thing rolling. My family will appreciate it once I'm finished as much as me as it's currently taking up half the living room.
P1070330.jpg

I'm hopeful It may be rolling tonight or tomorrow for it's maiden voyage. :)

Cheers
 
Well, just got it rolling. Strapped the old Stealth battery on for a quick test run.
Hit the throttle and I was like...
ba2.png

HOLY CRAP

The torque of this thing. I'm not sure if my controller is limiting itself...this thing pulls like a freight train. :shock:
I can't say I don't like it though. :mrgreen: I love it :!: :!: :!:
After 10 min of stop/start...loving the acceleration, the motor was not even warm...the controller was very warm though.
I think I will still need to do my original plan of heat-sinking it to the frame. I've ordered some thermal pads to sandwich between the controller casing and the frame. I plan on grinding the FET side of the controller shell flat, then screwing it to the frame using the FET screws with the heat pad in-between.

Anyway, will finish mounting everything, and post some pics of it's current state in the morning. :)

Cheers
 
I've now 'properly' mounted the battery.
This build is still 'slowly' in progress, but it's now functional to the point I can use it to commute. For me that's a significant milestone, as including the time taken to re-thread all my rear wheel spokes, so far this build has taken me over 5 months of mostly continual work when I found time, in order to get it to this stage.
Anyway, I'll let the pictures tell the rest of the story.
P1070339.jpg

P1070342.jpg

P1070343.jpg

P1070344.jpg

P1070345.jpg

P1070346.jpg

The battery is well padded where it rests on the frame, and back of the seat. The elastic straps take a lot of the weight, so the weight is evenly spread, not focused only on the main frame section in the middle. There is super soft padding inside the bag as well firmer rebound padding on the frame itself. The zip ties are there to prevent the battery falling off in an accident or very large bump. The bag is there partially to disguise the battery, and partially to protect it from any water splashes/rain. Although if I do ride in the rain, I think I will have to cover the whole rear with a garbage bag or 2.
P1070350.jpg

P1070351.jpg


There are only 3 concerns/issues I have with the bike at this stage.
The first is minor. The top edge of the battery sticks into my back a little through the seat mesh. I've maneuvered the battery down and back as far as I can without having to redo all my mounting, but I can still slightly feel it. It isn't a major concern when riding normally, but I can feel it when I hit larger bumps. I'll see how it goes, and if it's a big issue I'll have to reposition it further back.

The second problem may or may not be an issue. When I engage Regen, I can hear a slight creak. coming from the axle/motor area. I've tightened the axle bolts and torque bars as much as I dare, but can still hear the minor creak each time I engage regen after accelerating. It only occurs if I accelerate first, so it is definitely something to do with the shifting axle rotation force. I'm going to continue using regen and see how it goes. Best case it's just the rear stays or frame, worst case the axle somehow is moving, but even then, it's got 2 torque blocks, 4 torque washers, and 2 tight axle nuts...I'm pretty sure it's not going to spin in the dropouts.

The third issue is also minor. I can't use first gear as the derailleur hits the motor side cover bolts. Solution - buy lower profile bolts.

Not sure if I'll get it out for a longer ride today or tomorrow...I'm pretty sick with a cold atm, so pushing it to even cruise around the block if I'm honest.

Major things still to go on this build are:
-CA V2 (recycled from my Stealth Fighter when I get an Adaptto Mini-E for it)
-ATS Speed drive 1:1.65 - eta Jan-Feb 2015
-New battery pack - Built from 18650s to slide inside the frame. Currently planning for a 15 or 16s 6P pack with 4p sitting inside the frame before the rear stay mounts and 2p sitting behind the mounts before the controller. Measurement wise, it all adds up with room to spare. :)
-Re-mount the controller so it is heat-sinked to the frame.

Minor things still to do:
-Additional power button inside handle bar end for added security. Currently just the switch on the handle bar turns the bike on.
-New chain
-Re-mount the rear tire...I mounted it backwards. :oops: No big deal though.
-Light/s - Will probably just mount 1 or 2 of the standard ebay 'ebike' lights as they are so cheap and do a decent job.
-Light switch - Will use the other handlebar end to mount a switch for the light/s.
-If necessary, external cable routing in order to fit new battery pack.
-If necessary, better front brakes. Maybe some Magura hydro rim brakes...MT11 I think. The current brakes work...but not so well now with the added weight.

Any feedback welcome. :)

Cheers
 
Thanks Alan.
I just went for a 60km ride. The power and speed is great on this thing. To the point that I want to back off cause it's starting to feel dangerous.
I really need to reduce the tire air pressures. The lack of suspension is really noticeable on this thing when hitting uneven surfaces, tree roots, gutter lips, etc. A couple of times I felt really sketchy when moving fast over bumpy surfaces as the tires skipped and bounced all over the place.

I'm a little confused trying to figure out how much battery I used. As mentioned I'm using my old Stealth pack which is a 16S LiFePo4 pack. It was originally 20AH, but last time I used it I could only squeeze 13.5AH out of it. I suspect it may have a weak cell or 2 and the BMS is tripping it early.
After the ride today my multimeter measured 51.8V total at rest. This equates to 3.2375V per cell.
What I'm not sure of is what the at rest voltage equates to in terms of total pack usage. I suspect I used over 10AH, but have no way of knowing.
I guess I really need to get that CA mounted and setup...the bike feels naked without one. :p :lol:

Cheers
 
Well, as far as battery usage goes, my charger just finished charging after 2hours 20min. It's a 250W charger, and it tapers off towards the end like most chargers.
So best guess is about 550wh or 11AH used on that last ride which is roughly what I will be doing when I commute. That is about 81.5% of the total capacity this pack seems to have left and should give me more than enough range to continue making my commute.
I wasn't expecting that. So I may hold off the new battery pack for now, and continue using the old Stealth battery. I need to use the funds for the ATS speed drive and the Adaptto controller for my Fighter instead anyway.
That may change come next winter...this pack really doesn't like the cold and lost about 1/3 of it's capacity during last winter.

Cheers
 
Regarding the front brakes, I used a 90mm Sturmey Archer drum brake and I love it. All weather, no adjustment, and pads are supposedly good for 10,000 miles. The 90mm may be a little overkill though, there is a 70mm version that I think would probably be fine.

I think the speed drive sounds overkill. I rarely shift gears on mine. Only when I'm climbing the steepest hills do I ever even think about shifting, and I've got some pretty steep hills near me. I did go to a larger front sprocket though. I think I have a 53 tooth right now in the front and that's pretty good for my top speed of 21mph. I tried with a 63 too, but that was to big, a 55-57 would probably be just about right, but I don't have one of those lying around so I haven't tried.

After seeing your build, I've been looking at remounting my battery. I would love to get it in between the wheels and lower than I have it now, but the chain prevents me from hanging it below the frame where I would really like to put it. However, I am thinking I might be able to run it lengthwise on top of the frame in front of the seat. Did you consider trying that?
 
My battery is both on top and under the frame forward of the seat. It isn't pretty, but it works nicely. I will probably repackage the batteries and clean up the mounting at some point.

I'm interested in the drum front brake. Is there a match between the holes count in the drum and in the rim, or is a different rim required?

My brakes squeal like a banshee, it would be nice to fix that. If the front was quiet that might be enough as the rear is not needed much. Is there more info on those drum brakes around? Are they really the ticket here??

I agree that a lot of speed isn't really desirable on this bike. It is very efficient at low speed so the batteries really deliver long range, but the lack of suspension, small tires and reduced stability favor keeping speed down.

This morning I had to hurry a bit on my commute to make an early meeting, and I really noticed how much the suspension is working on the CroBorg. I certainly would not want to run fast on these lousy roads on the eBikeE.
 
You would need to drill some holes in your 16" rim. All the S-A drums are 36h as far as I know. I would also recommend radial lacing. I did 1X, but it wasn't a good idea. Radial would be fine and look better too.

There quite a bit of info on them out there, check Amazon. There is also a dynamo version too if you are looking for a charging solution. If you decide you want to get one, check with me, because I can get these for a very good price. 8)
 
I was actually thinking of getting a 5 spoke plastic wheel for the front...mainly for looks. :)
Not sure if something like this would fit though...the axle would probably be too wide.
mBdZWyoPyodBjuWlWRQQ7ig.jpg


The other option is just getting a 5 spoke front rim...but then I don't know how that works with rim brakes, if at all.
mL-IOnmnzPIwAWvloZYIbJQ.jpg


Even cooler would be a 3 spoke rim...but they're much harder to come buy in 16", and I wouldn't be as confident about it's strength.
$T2eC16VHJIIE9qTYKK(OBQE5kFl4Ew~~60_35.JPG


Cheers
 
Alan B said:
Are there any 36 hole 16" rims that one might use?

I'm finding 16" 36H rims available, for those interested in using a Sturmey Archer front drum hub.

eg: Sun M-14A.

Not sure which ones are any good, but at least there are some. At 16" they're a lot stronger than larger rims, so it might not be as critical. Any recommendations for a "good" 16" 36H rim?
 
A 16" wheel has no place on any kind of commuter vehicle, unless you think it's cool to have the fork torn off your bike by a pothole (and then use your face as a front wheel).

Also, the BikeE is by far the worst-handling vehicle of any kind that I have experienced firsthand.
 
Lol Chalo, you had to show up sooner or later. :lol: :roll:

A 16" wheel is not ideal sure, but this is a recumbent...what alternative would you propose given the frame/geometry design?
Also, given the intended purpose is mostly commuting on relatively smooth bike paths, I fail to see where any large wheel eating potholes are likely to come from.
That and the hookworm tire I've now thrown on it seems to be making the ride much smoother than it was previously.

Cheers
 
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