I burned two mosfets of my ezee controller while dragging my two kid uphill. Got a new 25A Infineon. System works again. But I need a better solution for the power switch. the contacts of my cheap switch behind my lock also did not survived the "accident".
Amberwolf pointed me at a soultion with an contactor on another thread, which could make sense in my special case (with two low current switches, one pushed by my lock barrel, another mounted on the case itself as external backup switch or "kill switch"). So I got my hands on a Kilovac EV200AAANA (hasn't arrived yet, found a cheap one, but only the 9 to 36 V version). See here:http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/ev200.pdf
I wonder while this is the 9 to 36V version if I am safe to go with my 36v ezee package (because its 38 zo 40 or so). And then: Am I right: this one does not require an external coil economizer?
How do I have to wire the thing together? Red or Black? Direction matters I think. And on the two thin wires the low current switch?
EDIT: Just read in the specs: Holding Current (Avg.) 0.13A@12V, 0.07A@24V 0.03A@48V 0.02A@72V Is that what the thing will draw from my battery If I do not have a hard wired kill switch. Is'nt this a bit much?
I asked amberwolf the same questions per pm, he responded:
I haven't used these specific ones, only know that they are one of the "gold standards" of EV contactors, used successfully all the time in conversions of cars, motorcycles, sometimes powerful ebikes, etc. I'd use them too if I could afford them.
Wiring...the smaller connections are going to be for the coil end. Some of them have the coil electronics/suppression built in; you can check the Czonka/Kilovac web pages to be sure if yours does, by model number, or there is a page somewhere here on ES that listed them, and also at least two pages over on DIY Electric Car forums that I have seen.
I don't know for sure, but I do not think the main contactor connections for the switching of power actually have a polarity. If they do, then you'll need to follow that.
If it's rated up to 36V it shoudl work on anything up to 36V, but if your system goes above that when it's fully charged (probably does) then you should check the specs for that model number to be sure it can take it. I suspect that the rating is for the coil, not the contactor part. But check first.
Also, remember that if you post your questions in your main build thread, *anyone* that knows can answer, instead of just the one person (or few people) you might ask via PM.
It'll get you faster and possibly better help than a single person can give, most likely.
so I took his advice and posted it here.
PS: I know this seems a bit heavy duty stuff for my setup but there's enough room I my box to mount that thing and Andersons just are no option for me if you followed my thread till now you'll understand...