electrifying a cannondale bad boy 700

[e-cannon]

Can u post some pictures / specs of ur rear mech/freewheel combo?

maybe those pics will help you. the 9 speed freewheel I got also from ebikes.ca.
there's also a technical drawing with the dimensions of the rear eZee hub:
http://www.ebikes.ca/store/diagrams/MeZeeR.pdf
cheers

[Zoot Katz]

I've been farting around with cardboard mock-ups instead of CAD while pecking and staring at a laminated pink foam form for about a month now.
The edges of the triangular battery box form need to be squared so the box doesn't end up twisted.
I'm doubting the ability of a hot wire to cleanly cut it because of the glue

As with most of my attempts to get EBII tuned in, it will probably take three tries before I settle for the results.

[sjacome]

hacked ur design in my bike, i like it ---- a lot.

specializedhardrockdisc2008.jpg (64.04 KiB) Viewed 1576 times

[e-cannon]

As with most of my attempts to get EBII tuned in, it will probably take three tries before I settle for the results.

hacked ur design in my bike, i like it ---- a lot.

yeah, go for it guys!
in winter it's harder to get the epoxy cured for non professional equipped people like we are (using probably natural ventilation). be careful with the vapors.

[e-cannon]

The edges of the triangular battery box form need to be squared so the box doesn't end up twisted.

I'm not sure if it is my English but that one I do not understand...

[grindz145]

This has to be the most refined bike Ive seen. All the weight low and in the frame where it belongs. Absolutely incredible. Cheers.

[ekline309]

sweet bike man...

[Zoot Katz]

The edges of the triangular battery box form need to be squared so the box doesn't end up twisted.

I'm not sure if it is my English but that one I do not understand...

A photo will explain it better I can.

masking tape lip at split

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I wanted to make sure the three sides were square, across their length, in relation to the two triangular faces.
There was an abrasive belt off a floor sanding machine. I cut and secured that to a flat surface to achieve the result I was after.
The six lamination of foam had shifted slightly in the glue up.
I've been documenting my first attempt but will post the finished results in my own build thread rather than clutter this one.

[e-cannon]

ok understand now. maybe you could just drive some long enough nails into the side to prevent any shifting.

[Zoot Katz]

ok understand now. maybe you could just drive some long enough nails into the side to prevent any shifting.

Yeah, the last two laminations were toe-nailed to prevent slipping.
I think the MKII version will use some method of indexing the stack.
It's better if the inked outlines on the foam line up rather than the cut line.
I used a jig saw. A template and hot wire would be more precise.

ps.I'm getting impatient and still consider it an experiment.

[adrian_sm]

I used a friends bandsaw, and cut the whole stack at once to my template on top.
Worked well before I decided to do something different for my enclosure.

Just make sure the table is square to the blade and go slowly. It was well worth the trip across town for the effort it saved.

[e-cannon]

UPDATE.

after just about 200 km my thumb throttle broke while pushing it down. no road irregularity, no brute force. fatigue of (cheap) material.
instead of getting a new one from canada or somewhere else I managed to repair it using some stuff lying around. it now features a steal core...
it's very comfortable. in fact it's more comfortable than the original one.

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[e-cannon]

UPDATE:
I burned two mosfets of my ezee controller while dragging my two kid uphill. Got a new 25A Infineon. System works again. But I need a better solution for the power switch. the contacts of my cheap switch behind my lock also did not survived the "accident".
Amberwolf pointed me at a soultion with an contactor on another thread, which could make sense in my special case (with two low current switches, one pushed by my lock barrel, another mounted on the case itself as external backup switch or "kill switch"). So I got my hands on a Kilovac EV200AAANA (hasn't arrived yet, found a cheap one, but only the 9 to 36 V version). See here:
http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/ev200.pdf
I wonder while this is the 9 to 36V version if I am safe to go with my 36v ezee package (because its 38 zo 40 or so). And then: Am I right: this one does not require an external coil economizer?
How do I have to wire the thing together? Red or Black? Direction matters I think. And on the two thin wires the low current switch?
EDIT: Just read in the specs: Holding Current (Avg.) 0.13A@12V, 0.07A@24V 0.03A@48V 0.02A@72V Is that what the thing will draw from my battery If I do not have a hard wired kill switch. Is'nt this a bit much?

I asked amberwolf the same questions per pm, he responded:

I haven't used these specific ones, only know that they are one of the "gold standards" of EV contactors, used successfully all the time in conversions of cars, motorcycles, sometimes powerful ebikes, etc. I'd use them too if I could afford them.
Wiring...the smaller connections are going to be for the coil end. Some of them have the coil electronics/suppression built in; you can check the Czonka/Kilovac web pages to be sure if yours does, by model number, or there is a page somewhere here on ES that listed them, and also at least two pages over on DIY Electric Car forums that I have seen.
I don't know for sure, but I do not think the main contactor connections for the switching of power actually have a polarity. If they do, then you'll need to follow that.
If it's rated up to 36V it shoudl work on anything up to 36V, but if your system goes above that when it's fully charged (probably does) then you should check the specs for that model number to be sure it can take it. I suspect that the rating is for the coil, not the contactor part. But check first.

Also, remember that if you post your questions in your main build thread, *anyone* that knows can answer, instead of just the one person (or few people) you might ask via PM. It'll get you faster and possibly better help than a single person can give, most likely.

so I took his advice and posted it here.

PS: I know this seems a bit heavy duty stuff for my setup but there's enough room I my box to mount that thing and Andersons just are no option for me if you followed my thread till now you'll understand...

[e-cannon]

for those who want to take a look at the switch...

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switch_02.jpg (89.76 KiB) Viewed 864 times

My rude opening doesn't make look it better...

[dnmun]

if your pack is always on the bike, you can eliminate the large current cables from the switch and leave them connected permanently to the controller by soldering them. but you need to put a switch inline on the small red wire which carries the controller circuit current from the battery to the controller.

the controller circuit current will drain your battery if left on, but the main current path through those big wires to the output mosfets is isolated and current does not leak out of your pack and through those wires unless you turn on the controller.

this also eliminates the spark when you hook up the controller to the pack.

[Crimson Head]

Wow - that must be the cleanest build I have ever seen. A masterpiece. Congrats e-cannon.

[e-cannon]

if your pack is always on the bike, you can eliminate the large current cables from the switch and leave them connected permanently to the controller by soldering them. but you need to put a switch inline on the small red wire which carries the controller circuit current from the battery to the controller.

the controller circuit current will drain your battery if left on, but the main current path through those big wires to the output mosfets is isolated and current does not leak out of your pack and through those wires unless you turn on the controller.

this also eliminates the spark when you hook up the controller to the pack.

thanks dnmun for the quick answer. I got my controller from ebikes.ca. there is no small red wire coming out from the controller. But: there is a switch on the controller itself. I will have to open the controller but I assume that this switch is exactly wired like you suggest:

On/Off Switch: These controllers have a rocker ON/OFF switch that shuts the controller off so that it draws no current. It eliminates the need for a high current switch inline with the battery pack.

that would everything make much easier for me. I first thougt this one was hardwired too.

Would it then be also safe to put the other (the outside mounted kill-) switch in series with my keyswitch? Or could a controller failure make turnig off inpossible without a hardwired killswitch (which I obviously try to avoid)?

[e-cannon]

Wow - that must be the cleanest build I have ever seen. A masterpiece. Congrats e-cannon.

thanks for the kind words!
cheers
boris

[dnmun]

for the failure mode where one of you mosfets shorts out and somehow becomes a dead short from the battery then you may want to include either a large fuse soldered into the wiring or use an anderson or similar connector in an accessible spot so you can disconnect the pack physically. then you can use your key switch to turn the controller current on and off by going inside the controller, take the output from your key switch which would be low current if you bypassed the key switch with your main cables. then connect the output of your key switch to the output of the toggle switch on the controller. that way you could use the key to turn off the controller current and disable the bike too. that would allow you to have two parallel switches also so if you lost your key, you could use the switch on the controller to turn it on, but otherwise leave it turned off. not secure, but they are gonna steal it anyway if it is unlocked.

[e-cannon]

that way you could use the key to turn off the controller current and disable the bike too. that would allow you to have two parallel switches also so if you lost your key, you could use the switch on the controller to turn it on, but otherwise leave it turned off. not secure, but they are gonna steal it anyway if it is unlocked.

I can't get to my controller without key... the barrel also locks my battery box. So that's not gonna happen. But also I will not have a second chance to start loosing my keychain... But anyway, I did it that way. Got in the controller and soldered wires for a parrallel switch. If it happens that my key switch will not close for any reason I will have the possiblility to open the case and reactivate the controllers switch. good idea dnmun.
I think I will install a hardwired emergency switch anyway. I just never know how much current this one should be able to take. Do you think a 20A switch is enough or even to much?
And what about that fuse you mentioned how big should that be in your opinion?

[dnmun]

use a fuse bigger than your max current. at least 40A or 50A.

[Pablo_1985]

The best battery box i have ever seen! i´m going to try to copy you

[auraslip]

I spent hours trying to figure out a switch for my build. I didn't even think to use the on/off switch built into the controller

Then again I have my charger in my battery box....and that charger doesn't have a on/off lead, but it DOES have a on off switch. I bet I could run that to my control box.

BTW I went with a hella power switch.

It's alright, but the problem I have with keys is WTF do you do with the rest of the keys when your riding? Leave them dangling from the side of your bike?

[e-cannon]

WTF do you do with the rest of the keys when your riding? Leave them dangling from the side of your bike?

yeah that's why my lock barrel just pushes an on-off push button and then goes back and the keys go back in the pocket where they belong...

[auraslip]

Your e-bike fu is strong.