Amped rear geared build

zelectric

100 mW
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
46
Location
San Diego, Ca.
First post. New to ebiking but learning a lot and having fun! :D
Updated pic: 4/24/10-GT Idrive xcr2000
0424101803a.jpg


First build:
I built up an ebike using the amped bikes rear geared motor. I recently relocated the battery to mount in the frame. Here are some early pics:
1029091422b.jpg

1029091418b.jpg

DSCN0972.jpg

Here is the battery in the frame:
newbatt2.jpg

Here is the link to the amped forum write up:
http://www.ampedbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=949
Z.
 
Nice setup, Z. Thanks for showing the Amped Bike geared hub. I have a direct drive front hub from Amped on my Trek. I have to admit, I really like that hub. It's very quite and pulls hard.

I'm just completing a second build. It's on a Tidalforce frame. I went with the rear hub on this bike, since my other one has the front. I almost pulled the lever and bought Danny's rear geared hub, but at the last minute, went with a BMC V1 instead. The biggest reason is because I could fit a 7 speed freewheel on it in the stock space and I think Danny's would only take a 6 because it is a bit wider. I hope to hear/ride Danny's rear geared sometime to compare the two. It is very stealthy. I think the average biker would not realize it's an electric. Have you ridden a bike with his front dd hub? If so, how does the power level compare?
 
DervAtl said:
Nice setup, Z. Thanks for showing the Amped Bike geared hub. I have a direct drive front hub from Amped on my Trek. I have to admit, I really like that hub. It's very quite and pulls hard. Have you ridden a bike with his front dd hub? If so, how does the power level compare?
Thanks!! This is my first ebike. The only other ebike I have ridden was a bionx so I can not compare the power of the amped dd hub. With my 36v ping I can cruise at about 20mph on the flats without pedaling and of course faster if I pedal. I have not done extensive testing of range but I always pedal and have gone 20 miles with hills and still had power. I think I am already wanting a 48v. :p
 
Nice bike Z ! :)
I like it a lot, especially the battery in the frame. :D It was impossible to do on mine. :cry:

About the throttle modification, what exactly is it ? I dont understand what it is. Is it an extension to allow to keep your shifter ?
I would like to know, because that I had some fitting problems with the throttle / shifter.

You first put the motor on a non-suspended bike, do you like more the new full suspension bike ?

I am looking at your torque arm, and I am not sure, but I think that it would be more solid if you would put it on the same side but upside down.
When the motor spins, it tries to spin the axle going backward.
The way you put your torque arm allows the axle to spin a couple of degrees if the torque arm slips on the side of your frame.

This is my torque arm :
_MG_8049%20%28Large%29.JPG


Then again, its hard to see on pictures !

Last thing, If you switch to 48 V, dont forget to get a 11 tooths rear cassette, otherwise you will not be able to pedal anymore :wink:
 
fredo gauvino said:
Nice bike Z ! :)
Thanks!! I like it a lot, especially the battery in the frame. :D It was impossible to do on mine. :cry:
About the throttle modification, what exactly is it ? I dont understand what it is. Is it an extension to allow to keep your shifter ?
Yes. I wanted to keep my exiting index shifter/brake lever combo. There is not enough room to mount the throttle close enough for my thumb to reach. It is just a very basic extension. Here is a better pic:
DSCN1015.jpg

fredo gauvino said:
You first put the motor on a non-suspended bike, do you like more the new full suspension bike ?
This bike is night and day compared to the first build on the donated pacific. In general I think full suspension is the way to go as it really helps soak up the bumps and at 20mph+ you really feel the bumps on a hardtail!!
fredo gauvino said:
I am looking at your torque arm, and I am not sure, but I think that it would be more solid if you would put it on the same side but upside down. When the motor spins, it tries to spin the axle going backward. The way you put your torque arm allows the axle to spin a couple of degrees if the torque arm slips on the side of your frame. Then again, its hard to see on pictures !
Here is a better pic of the torque arm. I bent it in a bit so it fits under the frame nice and tight. That thing is not moving in either direction. :D
DSCN1013.jpg

DSCN1012.jpg

fredo gauvino said:
Last thing, If you switch to 48 V, dont forget to get a 11 tooths rear cassette, otherwise you will not be able to pedal anymore :wink:
I want 48w but I barely fit the 36v in the frame. How does the 11 tooth work? Do you just swap out the smallest gear?
 
nice bike and a clean build
i really like that frame triangle i could fit alot oh lipo in there
 
Great :) I am reassured :D

I too would have loved to put my Lipos in the Frame. :(
I could have split them and put them this way :

IMG_7972In%20frame.JPG


I am sure that the handling would have been better. :roll:

But I've been told that when you stare too much at LiPos, They catch fire.

Seriously, I was afraid that some debris could be thrown by the front tire and the lower one would catch fire.
And the upper one, well, if it would catch fire, my balls would also catch fire. :shock:

Ho well, they are in the bag now.

Only my a$$ can catch fire now. :lol:
 
fredo gauvino said:
Last thing, If you switch to 48 V, dont forget to get a 11 tooths rear cassette, otherwise you will not be able to pedal anymore :wink:
I want 48w but I barely fit the 36v in the frame. How does the 11 tooth work? Do you just swap out the smallest gear?[/quote]

Oups ! I did not see the question at the end of huge photos :)

The gears are all in one piece that has to be replaced has a whole unit.

I ordered those two parts from Ebikes.ca :)

You will need this :
FW7Spd1132.jpg

with this tool :
FWTool.jpg

and this :
TL7335-7.JPG

Available at your LBS.

You also need to remove the hall sensor connector pins, because the tool has to access the center of the wheel. :(
Basically, you just hold the wheel and turn with the tool in reverse direction.
The freewheel is threaded and should unscrew itself from the wheel.
Then you replace with your new one !
I chose a 7 gears instead of the basic 6 gears, but I think a 8 might have fit. :roll:
 
fredo gauvino said:
fredo gauvino said:
Last thing, If you switch to 48 V, dont forget to get a 11 tooths rear cassette, otherwise you will not be able to pedal anymore :wink:
Oups ! I did not see the question at the end of huge photos :)
You will need this :
Thanks Fredo!! That is good info and I will be looking to get the 11 tooth on there soon. :D
 
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