True, true, true. But we aren't talking about a load of nicads are we? If I do race this bike, I most likely will put the battery, or at least part of it in the triangle. But unless I am confused, the weight will be about 10 pounds. My EVG bike, with 25 pounds of lead aboard, felt real good with the weight along the bottom of the frame triangle. But ten pounds is not so much weight. A 15 pound ping back there felt good last night. I'd try the ping in the frame but it just won't fit, its only a 14" frame.
This is a practice bike. I really hope to do much better for the death race. I may choose to go for the benefits of suspension. One corner of the track is very bumpy everywhere, and others have enough ripple in em from braking carts to make suspension a good idea. Let us not forget, the best suspended bike on the track won. So I may be riding a bike with no triangle at all.
My original idea was to put the battery protecting panniers up front, but only 5ah of 72v fits well up there,( on a fs bike) and I wasn't so pleased with the aerodynamic effects of it either. But two slim panniers with a fairing would tuck nicely into the wind shadow of my legs in back. Better handling will only win if you still beat fairracing 31 to the corner. Handling does need to be very good though, to corner at 35+ mph on that track. At some point I''ll weigh the bike with two scales and aim to have the same weight on each tire with me sitting on it in a tuck. Or is that wrong? What ratio should I be aiming for? I will want both tires to stick.
Edit, looks like if I redesign the panniers just a bit, they would both fit in the triangle so I can do that and try it both ways. For sure, if this was a rear hub bike, forward battery would get a lot more important. The 6x10 dirt bike has a bit too much weight in back and that bike does have poor handling by comparison. But the commuter, balanced for and aft perfect, handles nice till you start putting more batteries in the rear bags.
It's a work in progress, that's why I need to try different stuff now. But one of the key things I want is the ability to swap batteries as easy as I could with the pings in a toolbox. There simply isn't time to run a bike, charge it ,and run some more in the time avaliable between heats. Some of you may have that kind of charging capability, but my plan is to show up with lots of bricks of lipo and quick change them. So I need something better than lipo taped all over the triangle for sure!
For sure, one of the 1# requirements is for the lipo to be protected enough wherever I mount it, because a crash is going to be happening at some point. I can't see racing without ever laying it down.
THE LIPO RULES. NEVER ABOVE 4.3V NEVER BELOW 2.7V DON'T PUNCTURE
Ideal charging /discharging range for Lipo, 3.65v minimum 4.1v maximum
See battery technology section, FAQ thread at the top of the page for lipo noob info.