E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Rix]

QMS,

Here is a pic of my CA hot off the charger, it actually was at 86.4 volts but settled at 86.1. After I get on the gas for a about 10 seconds, the volts drop to 84 for a bit and then to 80.1. After I use about 230 watts, the volts drop and stay at 78.9-79.1 under no load for the remainder of the cycle. Even when I have used 1330 watts or about 16 AH, the volts read 78.9 with no load. On the gas it drops to about 72 volts though. I am actually thinking of increasing my LVC to 71 volts. When I drain the battery down to less than 20%, its still not getting near the 70 volt LVC like it should. When I originally cut my wattage limiter wire on the CA, the CA settings defaulted to 2055 wheel, 70LVC, and 66 Amps. Haven't touch it. I know I can change this. In fact, I was thinking of dropping the amps to 60 or 55. But I ride the bike smart and like the power. I am going to vent the hub. Just don't like wasted current turning to heat. Just got wait to go see my dad because his shop has everything I need including his knowledge for the shunt mod and speed controller reprogramming.

On another note, does anybody know anything about DNM's DH dual crown MTB Fork? I went to their site because I am really impressed with the Bomber's rear suspension. The rear suspension is so good that I have to actually down set shock to work with the RST One. DNM emailed me and said the fork would cost 530 USD delivered to the states. If their front forks work as good as the rear shock, I wouldn't hesitate buying it. The only downside is the fork is listed as weighing 4.5 kg which tells me that it may have some type of open bath designe and the weight is from the fork oil. Maybe I am wrong. Anyway if anyone has any experience with the DNM Fork, please let me know.

Rix

[cruzxia]

Interesting to know your default CA settings, my Bomber came set as follows:
LVC 69v and 65 amps. If I let the battery settle for a few hours after charging it drops to 80.1v.

After riding you should take a look at the following readings on the CA
Vmin and Amax, that will tell you how low you voltage dropped, and the max current, the two usually happen at the same time, unless the voltage goes below the LVC.
I find that once I have used about 1400wh if I accelerate hard the voltage will dip down to 70v (my new LVC setting) then the output limits to around 3800w. With the LVC set at 70v the Vmin goes as low as 68v, with LVC at 69v the Vmin will drop to 66v
It is because my CA takes a few seconds to react and limit the voltage. I altered some of the advanced settings in the CA and it improved slightly.
If I limit the current in the CA the reaction delay is very noticeable, It accelerates at full for power for a few seconds, and then shuts off the power back to the setting.

Re the forks, I have read plenty of reviews, trying to work out which fork to upgrade to. The Fox 40 forks get great reviews for the way the work, but they need constant rebuilding (service every 10 - 15 hrs), so they are out. The Mazocchi 888 RC3 is the way to go, they get great reviews for function, and everyone says they need almost no maintenance (service every 2 years) They weigh about 3.3kg, and I have seen them for around $850 in the US. The Mazocchi 888 TI comes in at 2.9kg, but it is not worth the extra $700 to save 400g, when your bike weighs 53kg

[Paul_G]

Friday Only MC rack sale...act quick....great for a Bomber

http://www.harborfreight.com/itc-deals.html

must be a member but its worth it for the fantastic prices for a year
29 a year and you get a 10$ gift card

http://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/ ... ges/20.jpg

[remf]

The Fox 40 forks get great reviews for the way the work, but they need constant rebuilding (service every 10 - 15 hrs), so they are out.

They really are nice forks. They need an oil change every 30 hours - that's easy. The damper rebuild is not so easy but only needs to be done every 100 hours. I think it'd be considerably longer if you're not smashing it constantly. Marzocchi 888's are just as good but they need oil changes & rebuilds too, it's just that they just don't stipulate intervals like Fox. I think they'd need the same servicing as the 40 if you're landing big drops. Open bath vs Closed bath...it really doesn't matter as long as you keep the oil clean.

[QMS]

Interesting to know your default CA settings, my Bomber came set as follows:
LVC 69v and 65 amps. If I let the battery settle for a few hours after charging it drops to 80.1v.

After riding you should take a look at the following readings on the CA
Vmin and Amax, that will tell you how low you voltage dropped, and the max current, the two usually happen at the same time, unless the voltage goes below the LVC.
I find that once I have used about 1400wh if I accelerate hard the voltage will dip down to 70v (my new LVC setting) then the output limits to around 3800w. With the LVC set at 70v the Vmin goes as low as 68v, with LVC at 69v the Vmin will drop to 66v
It is because my CA takes a few seconds to react and limit the voltage. I altered some of the advanced settings in the CA and it improved slightly.
If I limit the current in the CA the reaction delay is very noticeable, It accelerates at full for power for a few seconds, and then shuts off the power back to the setting.

Re the forks, I have read plenty of reviews, trying to work out which fork to upgrade to. The Fox 40 forks get great reviews for the way the work, but they need constant rebuilding (service every 10 - 15 hrs), so they are out. The Mazocchi 888 RC3 is the way to go, they get great reviews for function, and everyone says they need almost no maintenance (service every 2 years) They weigh about 3.3kg, and I have seen them for around $850 in the US. The Mazocchi 888 TI comes in at 2.9kg, but it is not worth the extra $700 to save 400g, when your bike weighs 53kg

Hey cruzxia, my settings and results are pretty much identical to yours How many KM'S have you clocked up on your Bomber so far? I agree re the DNM v the Maz's. I have used heaps of different forks and these are effing awesome Great range of adjustment,really plush ride over 'serious' bumps, super strong with 3rd crown(which the DNM's don't have) and really positive rider feedback


Rix, just wanted to check that AH reading you quoted 66AH didn't seem right You might want to check your wheel circumference setting in the CA also. I changed mine to 2020mm when i fitted the Hook Worms to mine! The factory setting was about 2080mm(i think) This will affect the accuracy of the speedo. Oh and just wondering also was that radar speed check done from a "cruiser"

[Rix]

Interesting to know your default CA settings, my Bomber came set as follows:
LVC 69v and 65 amps. If I let the battery settle for a few hours after charging it drops to 80.1v.
After riding you should take a look at the following readings on the CA
Vmin and Amax, that will tell you how low you voltage dropped, and the max current, the two usually happen at the same time, unless the voltage goes below the LVC.
I find that once I have used about 1400wh if I accelerate hard the voltage will dip down to 70v (my new LVC setting) then the output limits to around 3800w. With the LVC set at 70v the Vmin goes as low as 68v, with LVC at 69v the Vmin will drop to 66v It is because my CA takes a few seconds to react and limit the voltage. I altered some of the advanced settings in the CA and it improved slightly.
If I limit the current in the CA the reaction delay is very noticeable, It accelerates at full for power for a few seconds, and then shuts off the power back to the setting.

Re the forks, I have read plenty of reviews, trying to work out which fork to upgrade to. The Fox 40 forks get great reviews for the way the work, but they need constant rebuilding (service every 10 - 15 hrs), so they are out. The Mazocchi 888 RC3 is the way to go, they get great reviews for function, and everyone says they need almost no maintenance (service every 2 years) They weigh about 3.3kg, and I have seen them for around $850 in the US. The Mazocchi 888 TI comes in at 2.9kg, but it is not worth the extra $700 to save 400g, when your bike weighs 53kg

Cruzxia, Remf, I will check Vmin and Amax after my ride tonight. Since I am not constantly looking at it, I could be dropping below 72 under load and not seeing it. I am really leaning towards the Zocks RCV over the DNM DH front fork. They have less adjustment settings then the RC3 and can be had for $700 from Jenson USA. As my DNM shock continues to break in, its getting better. I think there is some anti bottom valving in this shock. I can set the compression all the way soft with spring preload turned out and its really plush over the woops. When I go off a 3 foot drop, I am not feeling it bottoming that hard. Bottom line is, I am switching forks because I don't like having to set the rear to work with the front, I should be able to set up the font and a rear to work best for me. As I am learning that's just not possible with the RST forks. Cruzxia would you try this for me? Turn your rebound all the way slow and your compression all the way soft on the fork. Then compress it up and down. Then turn the rebound all the way fast and the compression all the way firm and compress up and down again. What should happen is the first setting should make your fork compress easly and rebound very slowly. The second setting your fork should be hard to compress and your rebound will be quick. On my forks, i can barely tell any difference on compression settings and no difference at all on rebound. I am curious if this is just my fork or if this is RST valving in general. To the forum members, I am sorry for kicking a dead horse on suspension. Back in the forum I bragged to someone how I could set up the suspension and he commented on how crappy he thought the RST forks were on small stuff, that guy was right.

Paul, I am thinking about getting one of those bike haulers for my truck. I can lift the bomber into my truck, but after a ride, I am tired and its harder to lift bomber into my truck. Doens't help that my truck has a 1.5" suspension lift with a bed the size of a wheel barrow.

[Hyena]

Rix, just wanted to check that AH reading you quoted 66AH didn't seem right You might want to check your wheel circumference setting in the CA also

I think he meant A as in amp current limit. Unless he wasnt reset the CA and that's a cumulative value from a few rides.The tire circumference will certainly throw the speedo out, though it should be fairly accurate if entered properly. The most accurate though is by GPS, nearly everyone has one these days if not in their phone. The speed sometimes lags a second behind but for measuring true sustained top speed that's your best bet. While that radar reading might be accurate if that's a police car I wouldn't rule out it reading on the high side. Many a speeding fine has been contested on the grounds that the radar wasn't recently calibrated

Re: the DNM forks, I've been looking at those for another build too. They're not bad for the price but I'm not sure how good they'd be for offroad abuse on a bomber. I'm looking at them for more of a cruisery type street build. It's also worth noting that they're an upside down design which means they'll be collecting more muck if used in dusty and muddy conditions. Though admittedly some dirt bikes use this same design so that probably negates those concerns... But you'd want covers over them.

[QMS]

Rix, just wanted to check that AH reading you quoted 66AH didn't seem right You might want to check your wheel circumference setting in the CA also

I think he meant A as in amp current limit. Unless he wasnt reset the CA and that's a cumulative value from a few rides.The tire circumference will certainly throw the speedo out, though it should be fairly accurate if entered properly. The most accurate though is by GPS, nearly everyone has one these days if not in their phone. The speed sometimes lags a second behind but for measuring true sustained top speed that's your best bet. While that radar reading might be accurate if that's a police car I wouldn't rule out it reading on the high side. Many a speeding fine has been contested on the grounds that the radar wasn't recently calibrated

Re: the DNM forks, I've been looking at those for another build too. They're not bad for the price but I'm not sure how good they'd be for offroad abuse on a bomber. I'm looking at them for more of a cruisery type street build. It's also worth noting that they're an upside down design which means they'll be collecting more muck if used in dusty and muddy conditions. Though admittedly some dirt bikes use this same design so that probably negates those concerns... But you'd want covers over them.

Hey Hyena, yes i think your right re the current limit. I am just trying to figure out why Rix bike seems to be such a BEAST Lol yes the radar MIGHT be a little on the high side You would definitely neen to protect those upside down stanchions, they would be very vulnerable on Rix bike i think.

[cruzxia]

Rix

I tested the RST forks as you mentioned,

Rebound - the adjustment starts to work from about 3 clicks from min, and the rebound gets progressively slower as it is wound up. I can also here the restriction getting louder as the rebound is increased. The rebound makes a small difference from min to max.

Compression - Firstly the adjustment is backwards, It basically only seems to increase the compression on the last few clicks, and the increase in compression goes from none to extreme, where it is very hard to compress the forks.

I was the one who told you about the forks, before you bike arrived.

My biggest complaint is that they don't react over small bumps, so there is plenty of jarring through the handlebars.
If you can find a good lubricant to use on the fork tubes, they improve substantially.
Best I can get them setup with zero compression (to minimise stiction), and the rebound about midway. I also lubed the bushes in the forks, which has helped a bit with the small bumps. They seem to work quite well over larger jumps.

I will be interested to see which forks you get, and what you think of them, as I want to upgrade mine.

Qms

I have about 590km clocked up so far. Mix of road and trail riding.

[Rix]

Cruzxia,

Now I remeber your comment . Based on what you reported with your forks, I got problems with the vavling in the cartridge unit. I literaly can only detect a slight increase in compression turning the knob all the way in and no percieved difference in the rebound turned all the in or out. I shit you not, it is the same. I know forks, like shocks have to break in. I have put 11 rides on my bike with a total of 301 miles, (almost 500 KM). I have addressed the stiction issue. using a dental cleaning scraper, I pulled the top seal away from the tube/stanchion and squirt a bunch of Boeshield T-9 down into the seals. I did this at 4 points around each seal. Then compressed it few times, its not as good as Kawasaki's DLC on their KXF 450, but it pretty slick. And the added fork covers keeps dirt from contaminating the oil sheen on the tubes. I took a pic of my CA after last nights ride. Burned about 1180 W total. Climbed the east peak of Rattle snake which is hard to do in a 4X4 because of all of the rocks. I used almost 72 Amax, Vmin was 72.9. What I need to do is use about 1400 W then WOT on a hill and see what my Vmin is. Last night I also turned Amp max up on my CA to 67. Couldn't tell a difference between that and 66. After the climb, I touched the hub to see how hot it was. It was only warm. I learned that outside air temperature and wind conditions makes a huge difference on the amount of heat the hub motor generates. The other day I was riding around on the street (no climbs and not much WOT accel ) and the temp was 113F (45C). When I returned to the house, the hub shell was hot enough that I couldn't keep my hand on it for more than 1 second. That whole mechanical sympathy thing that Kepler talked about a while back definately applied here. Anyway thank you again for testing your fork out for me and reporting the results.

Hyena,

That why I was looking at those forks, the price. And I would tolerate the weight if the fork performed as well as the shock does. I really am impressed with the rear as it continues to break in. If you end up with the DNM, let me know what you think of it.

QMS

The radar unit is a police unit and we just had the biannual calibration checks conducted in March. Not as accurate as GPS but our radar units are certed for less than 1 MPH. The 56 MPH is true and actual measurment. I commented on cosign effect because the police unit was positioned stationary and flat. I was on a 2% grade at the time of zap. Radars are most accurate coming at or going away from in a straight line and on the same plane. Since I was actually closing the distance and my plane was at a slightly different angle (down hill) in perspective to the radar's position, I actually had to be traveling slightly faster than 56mph to get the radar to read my velocity at 56. Its the same in corners. Its part of that whole shortest distance between two points is a straight line thing. Anyway i am wondering if I have a 5403 instead of a 5404. The sticker has been removed, but the arrow pointing direction of travel is still on the hub.
Rix

[Rix]

Deleted double post.

[remf]

Rix, that is one nice Bomber! 56 mph on a 2% grade...well it's not a 5404, not even a 5403. Maybe it's a rogue 5402 ???

Can you lift the front wheel at all? 56 mph and if it pulls mono's...I want your bike

[QMS]

Rix, that is one nice Bomber! 56 mph on a 2% grade...well it's not a 5404, not even a 5403. Maybe it's a rogue 5402 ???

Can you lift the front wheel at all? 56 mph and if it pulls mono's...I want your bike

Maybe it is powered by "Unobtainium" and made from "Atomantium" (My spell check didn't like those two words)

[Hyena]

Maybe it is powered by "Unobtainium"

On the Sydney group ride on the weekend a little kid asked what was in the big box on my fighter (the frame)
I told him "hopes and dreams"

[QMS]

Maybe it is powered by "Unobtainium"

On the Sydney group ride on the weekend a little kid asked what was in the big box on my fighter (the frame)
I told him "hopes and dreams"

We SHOULD tell people that it is powered by a "Plasma inferno" and controlled by a "Flux capacitor"

[cruzxia]

Rix

Glad to help with the forks, I just bought some 888 Marzocchi forks, they are NOS 2007 RC2xVA with 3 year warranty, $550, all the reviews were good so I couldn't pass them up at that price. I think that they will be an improvement over the RST

You Amax at 72 is high, I would say that your motor controller is limited at 65A, so setting the CA above that wont help. I think you have a well matched battery with all cells delivering 100%, that may explain the higher top speed. fully charged, I managed 84kmh on the Smax, but I figured that allowing for speedo errors it was about 80kmh

I have used 10Ah and just went for a test run.
Amax 67.97 Vmin 67.8 Smax 77.7kmh

The run started at 4680w then the battery voltage dropped below 69v and the CA reduced output to about 4000w

So if you are still maintaining 72v at 65A when the battery is 2/3 used, you have a good battery. So when it is fresh of the charger it is probably 3 or 4 volts higher at max current which = faster

[full-throttle]

I just bought some 888 Marzocchi forks, they are NOS 2007 RC2xVA with 3 year warranty, $550, all the reviews were good so I couldn't pass them up at that price. I think that they will be an improvement over the RST

Nice buy

They are the last ones made in Italy. You'll be very happy with them.

Watch out for interference with the flat crown though.

[cruzxia]

Thanks for the tip. I just checked the RST forks are have almost flat crowns so hopefully I can get the 888's to fit.

[Rix]

Rix

Glad to help with the forks, I just bought some 888 Marzocchi forks, they are NOS 2007 RC2xVA with 3 year warranty, $550, all the reviews were good so I couldn't pass them up at that price. I think that they will be an improvement over the RST
You Amax at 72 is high, I would say that your motor controller is limited at 65A, so setting the CA above that wont help. I think you have a well matched battery with all cells delivering 100%, that may explain the higher top speed. fully charged, I managed 84kmh on the Smax, but I figured that allowing for speedo errors it was about 80kmh
I have used 10Ah and just went for a test run.
Amax 67.97 Vmin 67.8 Smax 77.7kmh
The run started at 4680w then the battery voltage dropped below 69v and the CA reduced output to about 4000w
So if you are still maintaining 72v at 65A when the battery is 2/3 used, you have a good battery. So when it is fresh of the charger it is probably 3 or 4 volts higher at max current which = faster

That makes since, eventually I am going to solder the shunt and crank it up a little. 80 amps at 80+ volts is good for 6.5 KW, which will be enough. If I need more than that, I will just get a Zero or a Quantya then. Good deal on the Zocks. I am told that the 888 haven't changed much over the las few years. I think your RC2 has both high speed and slow speed compression valving. If there is a knob inside of a larger knob on either the rebound and compression this will true. Or a knob inside of hex screw would also indicate this. Let me when you get it.

QMS and Remf,
I can pull a weelie around 5 MPH with a tug on the bars. I am not sure what hub I got but it works good. Hot off the charger 84-86 volts when I lift the rear wheel off the ground and give WOT, my wheel speed on my ca varies between 74.3 and 75.1 MPH (121-123 KMH). But thats with zero load. Last night I put some smaller profile tires on my bomber, OD is 23.5 inches instead of the Duro 3inchers which are 25.25 inches OD. Radar confirmed 54.5 MPH (89KMH) on the flat, no pedaling at all. My CA inidicated 58 MPH (96.3KMH) though. So the smaller tires are throwing off the MPH calibration readings. I will need to figure out how many revolutions in a mile these tires do and change my CA to reflect the new data. But what I also found interesting is how much my peformance increased every where with the smaller tires. More Acceleration, more torque, and more top speed under load. Its because of the increase in mechanical leverage advantage and lower rolling resistance. I know once I get the CA calibrated to the new wheel size my no load top speed of 75.1 MPH will drop. I looked up some pictures of a 5404 Clyte hub motor on-line. They show 5404 with a white arrow showing direction of rotation in the center of the hub. The number on mine has been taken off, but the direction of the rotation arrow is red. Does Cltye color code their hub stickers to indicate windings? I have ordered a 5404 through a Clyte dealer and will be lacing that hub to a 17" in a mini moto cross rim at some point. The 17 inch mini moto rim with a pirelli scorpion knobby 100 X 70 x 17" tire measures at 23" OD and 3.3 inches wide so it will definately fit in the swing arm. With the new forks I will be getting, I will definately need to drop the tubes in the tripple clamps to keep the head angle and geometry the same. I will loose 1" of ground clearance which I can live with. This project wont be happening anytime soon, but I can't wait to try it out.

Rix

[QMS]

Rix

Glad to help with the forks, I just bought some 888 Marzocchi forks, they are NOS 2007 RC2xVA with 3 year warranty, $550, all the reviews were good so I couldn't pass them up at that price. I think that they will be an improvement over the RST
You Amax at 72 is high, I would say that your motor controller is limited at 65A, so setting the CA above that wont help. I think you have a well matched battery with all cells delivering 100%, that may explain the higher top speed. fully charged, I managed 84kmh on the Smax, but I figured that allowing for speedo errors it was about 80kmh
I have used 10Ah and just went for a test run.
Amax 67.97 Vmin 67.8 Smax 77.7kmh
The run started at 4680w then the battery voltage dropped below 69v and the CA reduced output to about 4000w
So if you are still maintaining 72v at 65A when the battery is 2/3 used, you have a good battery. So when it is fresh of the charger it is probably 3 or 4 volts higher at max current which = faster

That makes since, eventually I am going to solder the shunt and crank it up a little. 80 amps at 80+ volts is good for 6.5 KW, which will be enough. If I need more than that, I will just get a Zero or a Quantya then. Good deal on the Zocks. I am told that the 888 haven't changed much over the las few years. I think your RC2 has both high speed and slow speed compression valving. If there is a knob inside of a larger knob on either the rebound and compression this will true. Or a knob inside of hex screw would also indicate this. Let me when you get it.

QMS and Remf,
I can pull a weelie around 5 MPH with a tug on the bars. I am not sure what hub I got but it works good. Hot off the charger 84-86 volts when I lift the rear wheel off the ground and give WOT, my wheel speed on my ca varies between 74.3 and 75.1 MPH (122-124 KMH). But thats with zero load. Last night I put some smaller profile tires on my bomber, OD is 23.5 inches instead of the Duro 3inchers which are 25.25 inches OD. Radar confirmed 54.5 MPH (89KMH) on the flat, no pedaling at all. My CA inidicated 58 MPH (96.3KMH) though. So the smaller tires are throwing off the MPH calibration readings. I will need to figure out how many revolutions in a mile these tires do and change my CA to reflect the new data. But what I also found interesting is how much my peformance increased every where with the smaller tires. More Acceleration, more torque, and more top speed under load. Its because of the increase in mechanical leverage advantage and lower rolling resistance. I know once I get the CA calibrated to the new wheel size my no load top speed of 75.1 MPH will drop. I looked up some pictures of a 5404 Clyte hub motor on-line. They show 5404 with a white arrow showing direction of rotation in the center of the hub. The number on mine has been taken off, but the direction of the rotation arrow is red. Does Cltye color code their hub stickers to indicate windings? I have ordered a 5404 through a Clyte dealer and will be lacing that hub to a 17" in a mini moto cross rim at some point. The 17 inch mini moto rim with a pirelli scorpion knobby 100 X 70 x 17" tire measures at 23" OD and 3.3 inches wide so it will definately fit in the swing arm. With the new forks I will be getting, I will definately need to drop the tubes in the tripple clamps to keep the head angle and geometry the same. I will loose 1" of ground clearance which I can live with. This project wont be happening anytime soon, but I can't wait to try it out.

Rix

Hey Rix, make sure you enter the "actual" circumference (not diameter) of the wheel into the CA, second screen in the "set up menu". The more accurate you are with this figure the more reliable the speedo will will be. Anyway you look at it though you have a deadly weapon in your hands

I have been checking the "official" Stealth forum lately and reckon if anybody needs any " proper Stealth" advice this is probably the place to ask it!

[Kepler]

Rix,

For that speed you must have a 5402 motor in your bike. Interesting you get over 100kph with the back wheel off the ground. Usually the CA will on only let you get 99kph and then start cutting out. Have a look in your setup menu and see what the max speed setting is in on your CA.

The Moto wheel sounds like it would be a great mod. Smaller wheel diam sure makes a difference in relation to torque to the ground. This is no doubt the reason why Stealths are designed around 24" wheels as opposed to the much easier alternative of a 26" wheel.

How did you manage to get a 5404 motor? Did you pick one up from someone who bought one during one of the recent group buys? Plenty of 53xx motors out there. Not so easy to get a 54xx motor unless you buy a minimum of 100 at a time.

[QMS]

Rix,

For that speed you must have a 5402 motor in your bike. Interesting you get over 100kph with the back wheel off the ground. Usually the CA will on only let you get 99kph and then start cutting out. Have a look in your setup menu and see what the max speed setting is in on your CA.

The Moto wheel sounds like it would be a great mod. Smaller wheel diam sure makes a difference in relation to torque to the ground. This is no doubt the reason why Stealths are designed around 24" wheels as opposed to the much easier alternative of a 26" wheel.

How did you manage to get a 5404 motor? Did you pick one up from someone who bought one during one of the recent group buys? Plenty of 53xx motors out there. Not so easy to get a 54xx motor unless you buy a minimum of 100 at a time.

Rix,Kepler i can NOW inform you that John from Stealh is indeed supplying NEW bikes with a different battery They are the same voltage but sourced from a different supplier and DO provide more torque on the newer bikes BMS ect. are the same!

[QuietRush]

There's actually a different reason for why they run a 24" rather than a 26". The 24" has proven to be a more durable and stronger wheel, 26" were prone to getting crushed under the dynamic loads they were experiencing - John apparently went through a lot of 26's before opting to go with the 24" option. Ultimately, customers benefit from a good R&D and finite materials analysis program.

[Rix]

Rix,

For that speed you must have a 5402 motor in your bike. Interesting you get over 100kph with the back wheel off the ground. Usually the CA will on only let you get 99kph and then start cutting out. Have a look in your setup menu and see what the max speed setting is in on your CA.
The Moto wheel sounds like it would be a great mod. Smaller wheel diam sure makes a difference in relation to torque to the ground. This is no doubt the reason why Stealths are designed around 24" wheels as opposed to the much easier alternative of a 26" wheel.
How did you manage to get a 5404 motor? Did you pick one up from someone who bought one during one of the recent group buys? Plenty of 53xx motors out there. Not so easy to get a 54xx motor unless you buy a minimum of 100 at a time.

Kepler,
My Max speed setting is in Miles Per Hour MPH, and set at 99 MPH. The wheel circumfrance is set at 2055 which must be really close because with the 3" duro, my CA speed was only 2 mph different (faster) than the radar readings. When I switched from the Duro for the low profile Arrow Prime Bite 24" x 2.75", my ca speed is now off by almost 4 mph. I say 4 but it could be a little less. When I did my no pedal speed run on the flat two nights ago with the new rubber, the radar flickered between 54 and 55 mph. That tells me that the radar was trying to read my exact speed which must have been split between 54 and 55. I was probably going 54.5 MPH, but my CA indicated 58mph, so the new rubber is off by 3.5 MPH. Anyway when I noted my no load top speed of 74-75MPH, I multiplied those numbers by 1.61 and converted to KPH (122 KPH). Not making these numbers up, I will lift the wheel and take a pick of my CA WOT and post it. Like you said, I had a lot of time to research online before my bomber arrived, and the various results I am experiencing are different than others. There is a Crystalyte dealer in California I have been speaking with. He has assured me that he can get the 5403, 5404, and 5405 on special order. I made sure he was absolutely clear that I was talking about the 54 series and not the 53 series. I am looking at $700 USD to get that motor airshipped to me. Just bought the rim and its on the way. I have laced wheels before but I will be consulting a wheel builder for this project, mainley to have the spokes custom measured, cut, and threaded, and I will be lacing in a 2x pattern if possible. I may have to resort to a radial lacing because the hub motor flange OD in conjuction with the 17 in rim. WIll have to wait and see what the wheel builder says.

Quiet Rush,

I saw your fighter video, looks like a fun machine. I agree with you that 24" wheels are stronger than the 26"s but I think Kepler is right about why Stealth used the 24", its mechanical advantage. Just the difference I experienced with the smaller Arrow Prime Bite OD 23.5" vs the Duro OD 25.25", was siginificant. In the gravel, from dead stop at WOT the Duro wouldn't spin a bit. The arrow prime bite breaks loose for a moment before hook up and it accelerates quicker. And if its true that I have mayhave a 5402, I need all of the mechanical leverage help I can get at 110KG body weight.

QMS, I think part of my success with the new battery was conservative break in I followed (First 2 rides not exceeding 2kw and the next 2 were easy rides kept under 3kw with max discharge of 1050 Watts). Besides the obvious, 18 Ah by 72 with around 1.5 KW capacity, do you know what the max C discharge rating is for these batteries? I am guessing between 6 to 10 C but I don't really have a clue. Just curious because I will be soldering the shunt at some point in the future and want to know if the battery can handle 5C continues.

Hyena, how did the July 15th ride go? Any videos? Was there a "who had the trickest Fighter and Bomber" contest? I can guess the winner for the Fighter. Anyway hope all is well with your health and I appreciate the tech stuff put out about your setup.

Rix

[Kepler]

Of course, forgot about mph as opposed to kph Makes sense now.

Good news on the 54xx motor. I really hope the supplier is up front on this one as to date is seems like the group buys have been the only way of sourcing these motors. $700 including freight sounds about right.

In relation to the stock batteries, I have no doubt they are better then 5C probably more like 10C. even at 80A peaks you will be below 5C and of course this is only for short bursts.

110kg now Rix. You are fading away By the looks of your avatar, you have given up the pints. You will be down to Fighter weight in no time.