E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[sn0wchyld]

Justtoby,
I appreciate the information on the batteries.

Sn0wchyld, the site for lizard skins is: http://store.lizardskins.com/products. I have enclosed a photo of the rear shock cover. Like the ones for my fork, its a flat piece of neoprene with velcro on the ends. Just stretch it around your shock and velcro together. As far as the front forks go, you can either order two Super Jumbo Chainstay Protector which I did that taper from 117mm to 107mm. They are really long and need to be cut to fit the forks. The RSTs One stanchion tubes are 36mm diameter which is about 113mm circumfrence. When I trim the super jumbo stay protectors for fit, I will trim from the short end. Or you can contact lizard skins in Utah via phone number on the website and have them made to order. I have had lizards skins custom cut and sew several Neoprene fork boot covers in the past for my dirt bikes and mountain bikes. They don't charge anymore than a comparable items and ship via Us Postal Service. Once my bomber arrives, I will put the covers on and post some pics.

Rix

ah cheers mate!
so they'll do custom length 'fork boots'? my norko has 200mm forks, so the standards just a tad short . How do you keep the chainstay protectors from riding up? do you cut holes in 'em like the fork boots have?

I've always wondered why bikes dont have covers for their shocks, I mean, most MX bikes seem to, so why not on DH? surely the weight isn't that bigger deal... my norko was 20kg stock, so an extra 200g of neoprene is hardly a burden.

[Rix]

Sn0wchyld,

These are the 2 ways I found to be the best. On regular forks (not inverted/upside down forks) the smaller diameter of the Neoprene boot goes towards the top at the bottom of the lower triple clamp with the bigger portion at the bottom where the stanchion enters the leg by the fork's cross brace. Since the cover is tapered and the bottom part is downward, it will slide up and down as the forks compresses and extends. I always used a small ziptie at on the top portion to keep the boot from from sliding down the leg. I have broken zipties before when I bottomed out hard. Otherwise no problems. Now if the Neoprene boot wont slide down the leg after fork compression, some dental floss or fishing line connected from about an inch above the boot to the fork's leg will pull the boot down when the suspension is extending after compression. this has worked well for me and suprisingly the boot doesn't fold under. If there is a way to clamp the boot around the fork leg below the stanchion entry, that works the best. However, forks with crossmembers dont allow this unless the boot is custom cut to go around the crossmember. Inverted Forks with no crossmembers are the easiest. Stretch the boot over the fork leg on one end and ziptie it. The other end push it clear to axel mount and ziptie that. short of a super hard landing that bottoms out and breaks the bottom ziptie, the boot stays in place and protects the stanchion shafts. I have never cut holes in the neoprene boots before so that could be an option as well. As far as custom ordering the neoprene for fitting, just call Lizard Skins and tell them what you want. I have done this several times and they always sent my order correct. For example, your Norco with the 200mm forks, tell them the tube diameter of the forks and how long you want the neoprene covers to be. Lizard Skins will take care of the rest. Not counting shipping, it will probably run you around $20-25 USD per pair. If you go this route, add atleast one inch onto the length for margin of error. There really easy to cut with sizzors and its better to have to much than not enough. Hope this helps.

Rix

[Tex]

I want a WHITE fighter so I can wear this with it
http://www.coolshityoucanbuy.com/2011/1 ... t.html?m=1

[Hyena]

I want a WHITE fighter so I can wear this with it
http://www.coolshityoucanbuy.com/2011/1 ... t.html?m=1

White fighter - check
Sufficiently nerdy - check
Cash to buy it - urrggghhh. It looks like it's only the armour anyway - it's the helmet I'd really want.

Technically you'd want the speeder bike helmet - something I somewhat shamefully looked into making a few years back

[Justtoby]

The storm trooper suit would look good with a Simpson bandit

[Tex]

Hyena. I owe you a call email back re the hadron I've kit. Tommorow.

[Elliot]

[quote="Hyena something I somewhat shamefully looked into making a few years back
[/quote]

I'd love to see that video where you drop in and win that bike race, but this time wearing the speeder helmet

[Stealth_Bombering]

Justtoby,
I noticed the frames as well. 100K right there in retail. Really neat. Do you have any information about the new upgraded batteries coming with all of the steatlh models? Besides most likely being lipo4, I am wondering if its either more capacity same weight or same capicity and slightly lighter weight. Rix

As far as I understand from Darin they are a new spec due to new supplier or new cells (probably due to slow supply) but Darin said there was no difference in output at all. Yes, still lifepo4.

I have a white bomber that I was hoping to have shipped this week. I was told some of the batteries didn't pass the final test so they sent them back to the manufacturer. The new shipment should be here in a couple of weeks and my bike is expected to be shipped out by the end of the month. Sounds like we are in a simular situation.

Just got my trailer hitch installed today so now I need to find a good bike hauler. I found an aluminum one for dirt bikes anybody try the amc-400 out yet? Below is the link. One of the images has the dimensions. My concern is that maybe the tires wouldn't fit properly between the rails or the rails may be to wide. If anybody has any input let me know.

http://www.amazon.com/AMC-400-Lightweight-Aluminum-Motocross-Receivers/dp/B000B8LIKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336793131&sr=8-1

While i'm at it does anybody have a recommendation for a light or dual lights? I found this article and was thinking about getting one of the magicshine mj-872 lights. I had a cateye on my last bike which didn't stay in place and was unreliable so was thinking of getting two lights. I am not riding in the mountains at night just around town so I don't need to light up the forest or anything crazy but it would be nice just in case the moment arises.
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/best-mountain-bike-lights-28195/

Here is my motorized bike background. My fist bike was an ezip which I modded to 27v which lasted about two months until I melted the motor Then I built a 48v BMC bike which was a huge improvement over the ezip. After a few months I had reliability issues with the controller, then I went through two batteries so I called it quits. After that I built a two stroke kit which was pretty fast around 35 - 40mph after all the mods. While it was fast it was just to loud and vibrated to much to be relaxing to ride. My next bike was a 4-stroke which was much more quite but had no torque, top speed was descent on a flat surface but the torque was defenitly lacking. After all that I decided an electric bike was the way to go and now that I have some extra cash I wanted to get a bullet proof bike that would be reliable and come with a warranty. I was looking at the optibike when I saw a link to the bomber after that I was sold. I was also seriously considering a Phoenix Paratrooper bike which I probably would of got if I didin't have the extra cash for a bomber. The Phoenix Paratrooper seems like a pretty good bang for your buck bike and being able to fold it is pretty cool.

Long story short I can't wait to get my bomber. Riding an electric bike is by far the most relaxing thing I have ever done. No phone to distract me, no texting, surfing the net, just piece and quite. Man I can't wait!

[Rix]

Hello Shane,

I am with you, the wait has been forever. Almost halfway through May then June and hopefully it's go time. I checked out the link for the bike AMC 400 MX Hitch Hauler. One website rated it for 400 Ibs or about 182 KG capacity while another site rated it for 450 Ibs or about 205 KG capacity. Eitherway if way more than enough for the Bombers. The bombers wheels will be much narrower than the ramp rails. Our bomber tires are about 3" wide, the rails are probably 5 inches. When your hauling the bomber, use two short bungie cords and wrap them around the wheels and ramp in conjuntion with the tiedowns. you could jump your vehicle and the bomber wouldn't come off the ramp. I used to haul my KTM 450 on a hitch hauler, but driving at night, my truck lights pointed up and everybody I passed flashed me becasue they thought my brights were on. Of course my the katoom is 247Ibs. So the batteries didn't pass the final test. I can't blame Stealth for making sure our Bombers are ready to go. Let me know whey you get your bomber, mine will probably be coming shortly after then.

Rix

[Rix]

Here is a pic of my Lizard Skins fork and shock protectors and a Felt Bermaster Tire. I really liked this tire on my old cruiser. I am hoping it can handle the power of the Bomber.

[coldfusion594]

Howdy! I do not own a Stealth Electric bike.... BUT instead of opening a new thread, what kind of motor does the bomber have? haha I can't find it anywhere!

[Cowardlyduck]

Here is a pic of my Lizard Skins fork and shock protectors and a Felt Bermaster Tire. I really liked this tire on my old cruiser. I am hoping it can handle the power of the Bomber.

It's not standard, but that's the tire that came on my Fighter. It's a great all rounder, but noisy as on the road/bike path. I didn't even need a bell to warn pedestrians I was coming as it sounded like a truck was about to hit them from behind when I was approaching.

I found I couldn't fit my Lizard skin around the swing arm. How are you doing it?

Cheers

*Edit* Oh, just re-read your post. Your not using them for the chain. Hmmm, maybe I can link 2 together for my chain.

[remf]

CD is spot on. I think the Berm Master is the best 3" all-rounder...big and tough, perfect for the Bomber. The semi-trailer effect is a built-in safety feature

[Mr Lowbank]

Had a near off last night pedal hit a rock and my balls had a close look the CA. Now in just need to know how to get the crank off. Is there a puller that will fit ?

[full-throttle]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

[Hyena]

Ouch, nice hit.

On a related note has anyone tried to remove the cranks on a fighter ? I imagine you need a special extractor tool with a hollow core to clear the thin shaft that runs through the schlumpf ? I went to take mine off on the weekend and ran into this problem, and quickly discovered when I couldn't drill a hole in my tool that it must be hardened...

[full-throttle]

google is your friend

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=37269&start=75#p572790
http://www.british-human-power.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3655&title=schlumpf-help
http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/handbuecher/WHB.sd.engl.pdf

Removing cranks
To remove a crank, proceed as follows:
- Hold the gear shift button with pliers and unscrew the tiny Allen screw M3
with an 1.5-mm Allen wrench.
- Unscrew the button.
- Remove the axle bolt with a 14mm box spanner. Check, to make sure that
the washer underneath the bolt didn’t remain in the axle hole.
- Insert the small tube from our tool set, before using a standard puller to
remove the crank. (an M6-nut may do the job as well, if you don’t have the
original tool set).
Very important: If not using the small tube or an M6 nut, you will destroy
the shifting shaft when pushing with a standard puller!
If using a different crankarm not provided by the manufacturer, make sure the
hole has a depth of at least 8mm.
Please also make sure that the right-side crankarm is not wider than 25mm,
to prevent it from touching the spider when being tightened.

[QuietRush]

What a coincidence Hyena. I'd had exactly the same conundrum but just solved it 24hrs ago with successful crank removal on mine, was lodged on well. There's a cheap little crank extractor tool from BBB that has a removable pin that fits nicely over the schlumpf - picked it up for ~$20 from my LBS. Will post a pic when I have a moment.

Looks like you can get it cheaper from Chain Reaction though, see http://www.myshopping.com.au/ZM--121444 ... ctor_BTL14

[Mr Lowbank]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

I did try that and the cap started to bulge I thought I was butchering it so thought there must be another way. As for tools like the BBB PowerPull Crank Extractor they wont work as the shaft is hollow and you cant see the end of the shaft. although you could put a rod inside the shaft and push against the bolt at the other end. but the Thread in the crank arm is a 1" (25.4mm) diameter thread, so is bigger than your standard thread. I need somethinhg like this RaceFace EXI Puller Cap in 1" http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=47582
both the main hex bolt and cap are right hand thread.

[glowwormbicycles]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

I did try that and the cap started to bulge I thought I was butchering it so thought there must be another way.

2 different systems being discussed for each bike Bomber vs Fighter

Bomber's Vboxx crank arms do have self extracting inner bolts. It's a nice easy system if nothing's seized up. No tools needed except the big hex wrench.

Fighter has a square taper BB axle hollow in the middle with the shift rod that sits through it. The Fighter needs the crank extractor with a hole in the middle as mentioned.

[Mr Lowbank]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

I did try that and the cap started to bulge I thought I was butchering it so thought there must be another way.

2 different systems being discussed for each bike Bomber vs Fighter

Bomber's Vboxx crank arms do have self extracting inner bolts. It's a nice easy system if nothing's seized up. No tools needed except the big hex wrench.

Fighter has a square taper BB axle hollow in the middle with the shift rod that sits through it. The Fighter needs the crank extractor with a hole in the middle as mentioned.

OK will give it another try if I pop the cap out I will have to go to plan B. I guess new crank will come with new cap?

[Hyena]

AH, I didn't think to make a little spacer like that. Even just sitting a small nut over it would probabyl suffice. *smacks forehead*

On an unrelated note, I'm still waiting for someone to post a pic of their steath tow bar rack

[Rix]

Hyena,
Checked out your fighter on you website. Looking at the pic, did you relace your hub motor to a 26" MTB Wheel? It looks bigger than the front. If so, I want to know how it handles. Is it pushing the front in the corners? Breaking loose? Stuff like that. BTW, great videos. Please keep em going.

Rix

[Hyena]

Hey Rix,
My fighter is running a larger width motor but the diametre is the same. The actual rims are the same 24" front and back but I'm running a bigger, knobbier tyre on the back for increased traction in the loose stuff and getting the power down. It might look a bit bigger for that reason, or it could just be the camera angle. A 26" up front would give it a nice dirt bike style stance though.

Here's my last 2 fighter vids which I didn't post here:

[Archer]

Hyena,
Checked out your fighter on you website. Looking at the pic, did you relace your hub motor to a 26" MTB Wheel? It looks bigger than the front. If so, I want to know how it handles. Is it pushing the front in the corners? Breaking loose? Stuff like that. BTW, great videos. Please keep em going.

Rix

I too checked out Hyenas fighter on his site and indeed it looks like the rear wheel is quite a bit larger.After a bit more viewing of the pic I noticed the ground at the front of the bike is going downhill.A slope if you will that loweres the front of the bike making the rear look larger.

True?