E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Hyena]

Ouch, nice hit.

On a related note has anyone tried to remove the cranks on a fighter ? I imagine you need a special extractor tool with a hollow core to clear the thin shaft that runs through the schlumpf ? I went to take mine off on the weekend and ran into this problem, and quickly discovered when I couldn't drill a hole in my tool that it must be hardened...

[full-throttle]

google is your friend

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=37269&start=75#p572790
http://www.british-human-power.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3655&title=schlumpf-help
http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/handbuecher/WHB.sd.engl.pdf

Removing cranks
To remove a crank, proceed as follows:
- Hold the gear shift button with pliers and unscrew the tiny Allen screw M3
with an 1.5-mm Allen wrench.
- Unscrew the button.
- Remove the axle bolt with a 14mm box spanner. Check, to make sure that
the washer underneath the bolt didn’t remain in the axle hole.
- Insert the small tube from our tool set, before using a standard puller to
remove the crank. (an M6-nut may do the job as well, if you don’t have the
original tool set).
Very important: If not using the small tube or an M6 nut, you will destroy
the shifting shaft when pushing with a standard puller!
If using a different crankarm not provided by the manufacturer, make sure the
hole has a depth of at least 8mm.
Please also make sure that the right-side crankarm is not wider than 25mm,
to prevent it from touching the spider when being tightened.

[QuietRush]

What a coincidence Hyena. I'd had exactly the same conundrum but just solved it 24hrs ago with successful crank removal on mine, was lodged on well. There's a cheap little crank extractor tool from BBB that has a removable pin that fits nicely over the schlumpf - picked it up for ~$20 from my LBS. Will post a pic when I have a moment.

Looks like you can get it cheaper from Chain Reaction though, see http://www.myshopping.com.au/ZM--121444 ... ctor_BTL14

[Mr Lowbank]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

I did try that and the cap started to bulge I thought I was butchering it so thought there must be another way. As for tools like the BBB PowerPull Crank Extractor they wont work as the shaft is hollow and you cant see the end of the shaft. although you could put a rod inside the shaft and push against the bolt at the other end. but the Thread in the crank arm is a 1" (25.4mm) diameter thread, so is bigger than your standard thread. I need somethinhg like this RaceFace EXI Puller Cap in 1" http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=47582
both the main hex bolt and cap are right hand thread.

[glowwormbicycles]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

I did try that and the cap started to bulge I thought I was butchering it so thought there must be another way.

2 different systems being discussed for each bike Bomber vs Fighter

Bomber's Vboxx crank arms do have self extracting inner bolts. It's a nice easy system if nothing's seized up. No tools needed except the big hex wrench.

Fighter has a square taper BB axle hollow in the middle with the shift rod that sits through it. The Fighter needs the crank extractor with a hole in the middle as mentioned.

[Mr Lowbank]

I don't think you need a puller - the cranks are self extracting.

i.e. turn the smaller hex counter-clock-wise. It will bottom out against the cap and release the crank.

I did try that and the cap started to bulge I thought I was butchering it so thought there must be another way.

2 different systems being discussed for each bike Bomber vs Fighter

Bomber's Vboxx crank arms do have self extracting inner bolts. It's a nice easy system if nothing's seized up. No tools needed except the big hex wrench.

Fighter has a square taper BB axle hollow in the middle with the shift rod that sits through it. The Fighter needs the crank extractor with a hole in the middle as mentioned.

OK will give it another try if I pop the cap out I will have to go to plan B. I guess new crank will come with new cap?

[Hyena]

AH, I didn't think to make a little spacer like that. Even just sitting a small nut over it would probabyl suffice. *smacks forehead*

On an unrelated note, I'm still waiting for someone to post a pic of their steath tow bar rack

[Rix]

Hyena,
Checked out your fighter on you website. Looking at the pic, did you relace your hub motor to a 26" MTB Wheel? It looks bigger than the front. If so, I want to know how it handles. Is it pushing the front in the corners? Breaking loose? Stuff like that. BTW, great videos. Please keep em going.

Rix

[Hyena]

Hey Rix,
My fighter is running a larger width motor but the diametre is the same. The actual rims are the same 24" front and back but I'm running a bigger, knobbier tyre on the back for increased traction in the loose stuff and getting the power down. It might look a bit bigger for that reason, or it could just be the camera angle. A 26" up front would give it a nice dirt bike style stance though.

Here's my last 2 fighter vids which I didn't post here:

[Archer]

Hyena,
Checked out your fighter on you website. Looking at the pic, did you relace your hub motor to a 26" MTB Wheel? It looks bigger than the front. If so, I want to know how it handles. Is it pushing the front in the corners? Breaking loose? Stuff like that. BTW, great videos. Please keep em going.

Rix

I too checked out Hyenas fighter on his site and indeed it looks like the rear wheel is quite a bit larger.After a bit more viewing of the pic I noticed the ground at the front of the bike is going downhill.A slope if you will that loweres the front of the bike making the rear look larger.

True?

[Hyena]

I think that photo is a bit misleading, I must have been standing closer to the back wheel or something.

I can't take a picture at the moment because it's in pieces (moar upgrades ) but here's one from a while back that's probably a better representation of how it really looks.

[Paul_G]

Fit a 13T Freewheel to your Bomber....64 Pic's posted by Jim Kirk over at:

https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgr ... l-vLcUT0xY

[Rix]

Hyena,
That Halo Contra you have on the rear looks great. Looks like it would really hook up in the loose stuff. Are the knobs bigger than the duro razorbacks that come stock on the new bombers? I like the rotor and calliper mods from Zero you have. Your fighter is really built for going fast, and stopping fast. Your latest videos are awesome. Hopefull my bomber arrives in 2 weeks. YAH!!!

Cowardly duck,
You mentioned you had the Felt Bermasters on your bike and they were noisy on pavement. How was the traction off road? Other than being noisy, was the tire durable? What about rolling resistance on pavement. If I could design the perfect Ebike tire, it would have the following traits: low rolling resistance, super traction in wet, sticky on dry, excellent off road, fast on road, very light, puncture proof, last forever. "Right". Seriously though, I am always on the hunt for good all around tires and would like to know what you think about the Bermasters.

Rix

[ManxE]

Hyena,

How easy are the Halo Contra's to get on and off compared to the Razorbacks? Likewise (@Cowardly Duck) - the Bermmasters?

Cheers,

ManxE

[Cowardlyduck]

Cowardly duck,
You mentioned you had the Felt Bermasters on your bike and they were noisy on pavement. How was the traction off road? Other than being noisy, was the tire durable? What about rolling resistance on pavement. If I could design the perfect Ebike tire, it would have the following traits: low rolling resistance, super traction in wet, sticky on dry, excellent off road, fast on road, very light, puncture proof, last forever. "Right". Seriously though, I am always on the hunt for good all around tires and would like to know what you think about the Bermasters.

Rix

Yeah, I don't think you'll ever find what your looking for. You'll always have to compromise on something with tires. It's like wanting a car that can go bush bashing (i.e. 4WD) but then also wanting it to have good fuel economy in the city(i.e. Hatchback/small car). Never gonna happen.

That being said, I reckon the Berm Masters might be one of the least compromising all round tire's around (like my Subaru Outback ). They don't stick as much as Hookworms to the pavement. Nor do they grab as much as Razor backs to the dirt. But they can do a bit of both.

Off road they were OK, not great, but good enough for fire trails, light single track and some loose dirt. I wouldn't won't to use them long term in mud or really rough stuff, but they can handle a little bit.

They do wear fast though. I only had mine on for 3 months and in that time I wore down half the height of the nobs on the rear. I'm running Crazy Bobs now as I mostly do commuting with my Fighter.

Here's a list of Pro's/ Cons I could think of for the Berm Masters

Pros:
-Multipurpose (All Rounder)
-OK traction on dirt
-Relatively Puncture Proof (I never got one)
-Can run low PSI (20 I think)
-Wide, for good contact/traction (3 Inch)

Cons:
-Can skip around under hard braking on pavement, or in the wet (due to the large gap between the nobs)
-Wears fast (on an Ebike)
-Not the BEST road or off road tire (i.e. compromise...as above)
-Heavy (>1kg each, not that that matters on an Ebike )

My plan is to leave road tires (i.e. Crazy Bobs, Hookworms, etc) on most of the time, and deal with the pain of switching to off road tires the night before I know I'm tackling some dirt the next day.

I'm thinking of getting these for off road. Probably get the 3inch for the rear and the 2.6 for the front.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=12381


Cheers,

*EDIT* OH...LOL, Just realised Hyena's got the Contra's too. lol, the name didn't click for me. That tells me they ARE a good choice then.
Hyena, what are your thoughts on running the 3" on the rear and 2.6" on the front? Would I just be better off running 3" front and rear?

[Rix]

Cowardly Duck,

Thank you for the info on the Bermasters. I will have to do some experimenting with tires/tyres. I am curious to see what Hyena says about the Halo Contra. Checked out the prices on the net, they are 30-40% cheaper than the duro razorbacks. That alone is enough for me to take chance on them if I want to go to a dedicated offroad full knob set up. Anyway thanks again for the breakdown on the Bermasters.

Rix

[ManxE]

Here's another video for you all. Enjoy!

http://youtu.be/S5nGvzsId7w

[deecanio]

Great vid

+1 for contra's and 24's .

D

[Hyena]

Are the knobs bigger than the duro razorbacks that come stock on the new bombers? I like the rotor and calliper mods from Zero you have. Your fighter is really built for going fast, and stopping fast.

Yep, it's a bit silly making your bike go alot faster if it's not going to be able to stop faster too! Not so much an issue offroad as largely your own skill as a rider to worry about but if you stray onto a road by accident you need to be able to pull up in a hurry when cars inevitably disregard you!
I never actually had the razor backs, only crazy bobs so I can't comment on the knobs. They ARE pretty chunky though. When I first started building / modding this I wanted it to be the ultimate offroader but after putting a few miles on it now I very infrequently come across terrain where I really need the big knobs so I'm thinking when they wear out I'll go with something a little tamer. I'm tempted to go with DMR Moto RTs which I"m a big fan of on my other bikes - they're a great all rounder though if you hit a patch of soft sand or mud you could come unstuck. They're more along the lines of the berm masters, though quieter and lighter I'd dare say. They're quite balloony too so offer some extra cushness - not that I need it with the ride set up I have on my fighter. The only down side is a relatively soft side wall which may be more susceptible to punctures it something sharp and nasty flicks up.

Hyena, what are your thoughts on running the 3" on the rear and 2.6" on the front? Would I just be better off running 3" front and rear?

Bikes of all types often run fatter tyres on the rear for grip so I see no issues with this. I guess it makes the steering a little lighter but one way or the other it's not really going to make much difference. I don't ride close enough to the edge of the bikes limits or mine for it to be an issue.

[Tench]

Hyena, have you tried the DMR Moto Diggers, i liked the RT's i fitted on the Bomber but opted for the Moto Diggers this time for the Big Hit, they are good enough to do rolling stoppies in the wet on pavement and dont move around on the soft stuff anywhere near as much as the RT's did, granted they may not last as long as RT's but they are in my view a better dual purpose tyre. I have always used the wire bead ones not the fold ups.

Simon.

[Hyena]

Hyena, have you tried the DMR Moto Diggers

That's what I've got on the front Sounds like our collective experience and preferences have aligned across the planet
I bought a set with a plan to fit them front and rear but then decided to fit the fatter rear one.
I think it's actually them rather than the fatter rear that makes most of the noise on the road. I don't mind it as it sounds pretty cool (check out the sound in my ride by vids) so I might chuck the other motodigger on the rear when I pull the 3" fatty off. And yeah I go for wire bead where ever possible.

I do have plans to go larger again with a bigger motor, 18x2.5" motorbike rim and 4.1" dual sport tyre but that might be for another build I think

[ManxE]

Just noticed a sale of bankrupt stock on ebay/amazon of 'Vuelta' 24"x3" downhill tyres. Bit of a gamble but interesting, given the general lack of such tyres on the market... Unfortunately, the sellers give few details and I couldn't find much info about them, but they look very knobby. Presumambly the company has now moved away from making tyres.

I ordered a couple and will try and give info on compound and tread/bead etc once I can compare them to the Razorbacks and Halos.

[M1k3]

currently using these tyres on rear of my kona stinky,only 1200w cyclone power but really pleased with them at this price.

[cruzxia]

RST forks working well.
I have had my Bomber for a month now. I found that the forks were great with the large bumps, but the small 1"-2" bumps the forks did not move. I rode a few weeks to see if they would loosen up with use, but they remained stiff.
I carfully lifted the seals and sprayed silicone spray in and around the seals.
I made a huge improvement to the fork action. With the small and large bumps now being absorbed by the forks.
Because the fork tubes are alloy they have high friction with the seals and bushes.

Cruzxia

[Kepler]

I found the same thing with the RSTs and have just lived with the lack of compliance on the small bumps. I will be interested to try a bit of silicon spray on the seals. Thanks for the tip.