E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Dlogic]

Kepler, Hyena, and Cruzxia,

Found the solution!!! Last night I squeezed two 4mm flat washer between the axel block and the swingarm drop out lip and went for a 13 mile ride using the crap out of my Regen. It stayed tight. I contaced Darrin (US Rep) and suggested that the Stealth "parts guy" go through the axel block (Torque Arm) bins and mic the the thickness of them top to bottom. If he can find two that are slightly thicker (.020) or thicker difference, send them to me. Kepler, sorry about the terminology confusion, in the gasser world those are referefed to as "adjustable axel blocks" and I am using gasser terminology to describe Ebike stuff which I am like a whitebelt cooley compared to you guys who are like 5th degree blackbelts. But I am learning slowly. Anyway back to the torque arms, your suggestion with the 4mm washers proved to be the solution. Thank you. I will be riding Lake Tahoe tomorrow and will post some pics. You guys have a good weekend.

Rix

I'v had the same problem and ended stripping the axle thread from over tightening. Not sure how to fix the striped thread, I am considering getting a new axle machined up with bigger flats where it comes thought the axle block. in the mean time I made some custom drop-outs/Axle blocks that fit the axle and swing arm tight so can't move(tap in to place with a hammer) (Just wish I did it before a striped the axle thread). I also adjusted the prong/axle slot on the swing arm with a hammer as the gap for the axle block was slightly bigger at the back ( probably from when it was welded). will test tonight nuts tighten to 45Nm a little bit further towards the end of the axle where it wasn't striped as bad.

Yup, the dreaded thread on those motors. Mine´s still ok, but i´ve come up with this pimp.

What you see here is a Cromotor that i run at 8,5 Kw. The threaded bolt in front goes right through the hole in the custom made motor axle. A full M16 * 1,5 thread sits on this bolt. On the back side of my custom axle i´ve machined 2 plain surfaces that sit inside an oval hole on my custom swingarm. The rim is a 19 inch by 2,15 inches motorcycle part from SM rims. Ultra sturdy but a bit heavy. Just like the beast that is slowly coming together in my work shop. If all goes well in a year from now a new thread will be opened here.


The side covers where polished. I´m still unhappy with the result so in a few days from now new coveres will be machined out of one solid aluminium block featuring integrated cooling fins. I wanna go for 10 Kw of continuous power!

[Rix]

Kepler, Hyena, and Cruzxia,

Found the solution!!! Last night I squeezed two 4mm flat washer between the axel block and the swingarm drop out lip and went for a 13 mile ride using the crap out of my Regen. It stayed tight. I contaced Darrin (US Rep) and suggested that the Stealth "parts guy" go through the axel block (Torque Arm) bins and mic the the thickness of them top to bottom. If he can find two that are slightly thicker (.020) or thicker difference, send them to me. Kepler, sorry about the terminology confusion, in the gasser world those are referefed to as "adjustable axel blocks" and I am using gasser terminology to describe Ebike stuff which I am like a whitebelt cooley compared to you guys who are like 5th degree blackbelts. But I am learning slowly. Anyway back to the torque arms, your suggestion with the 4mm washers proved to be the solution. Thank you. I will be riding Lake Tahoe tomorrow and will post some pics. You guys have a good weekend.

Rix

I'v had the same problem and ended stripping the axle thread from over tightening. Not sure how to fix the striped thread, I am considering getting a new axle machined up with bigger flats where it comes thought the axle block. in the mean time I made some custom drop-outs/Axle blocks that fit the axle and swing arm tight so can't move(tap in to place with a hammer) (Just wish I did it before a striped the axle thread). I also adjusted the prong/axle slot on the swing arm with a hammer as the gap for the axle block was slightly bigger at the back ( probably from when it was welded). will test tonight nuts tighten to 45Nm a little bit further towards the end of the axle where it wasn't striped as bad.

Lowbank,
I like the blocks, they look like they fit really tight. I thought I had the problem solved, but riding up at Tahoe and constantly on the Regen and throttle loosend my axel nuts. I did carry a wrench and tightend them on the trail and refrained from using the regen. They stayed tight. I orderd 16 flange nuts from the UK. Got the idea from Cruzxia. They should be here this week. I will give them a try. If this doesn't work, I am removing the regen wire completely and doing away with it. I like the regen option, but not at the price of constantly checking my axel nuts as soon I detect the slop. Let me know if your solution works, a week or so ago I placed a thin washer in my block to shim it up and it helped for a while. Ive toyed with the idea of drilling a 4mm hole in 2 places on the top of the swingarm drop out and tap it for a set screw. Then after I adjust the chain, I could tighten the set screw right into the axel block itself. Just an idea for now.

Kepler,
Those fighters are beutiful. Like I said, I may order a green fighter next year to go with my green bomber and now I know what the green one looks like. I am surprised with the differences between used current on the fighters. 690wh vs 450 wh. Thats around 33% less current from you. Impressive. Here is some pics from Spooner summit near Tahoe and Marlette lake. Serious climb. I took it easy and my hub never got that hot. But the controller did. Couldn't touch it at one point. Then I hit a down hill and it cooled quickly. I am wondering if the slow climb combind with the little air flow caused it. I was only drawing about 1500 watts continues and my speed was around 9-11 MPH (15-18 KPH). I got up over 8000 feet elevation (2500 meter or so) before I dropped down into the lake.

Dlogic,
Are you running that CROMO on your bomber? Good looking setup. Is that a 19" motorcycle rim? What the total outside diameter of your wheel/tire combo? Just curious. Unless some lacing issues come up, I will be running a 17"X1.40 on a CLyte 5404 in a month or so. OD with a 100x70/17 is 23 inches which means more mechanical advantage for me.

Hyena, in another life time, my job was searching and locating improvised explosive devices, IEDs. When I found them, EOD came in and either blew them up, or defused them. Anybody associated with the IED usually suffered from lead posioning. You definately would have had a bad day for riding around with batteries that looked like C4. And the funny thing about lipo packs are is they look like they could be PE with the wires coming out of them. Thank goodness the manufactures recognize this and use bright colors and labels. This weekend I went riding and had a close call. Came around a corner doing about 40 and behold, two mountainbikers riding side by side coming at me. The lady in my travel path appologized to me after I missed her and when off into the bushes. As a result of this close call, I will be wearing a full face helmet, gloves, knee/shin gaurds and elbow guards from now on.

Rix

[cruzxia]

Rix

Just check the thread count on those flange nuts, they look a bit skinny. In the photo I could only count about 4-5 threads which = 6-7 mm of thread contact area on the axle, that is the same as the nylocks, so thre will be no improvement.
The nuts I made have 11 threads, so it is 17mm of axle of thread contact area on the axle.

[Rix]

Cruzxia,

I'm wondering now if this company uses the same picture for all of their flange nuts. I say this because the picture looks the same for the M10 x 1.25 flange nuts they sell. Wont know for sure untill I get them.
Rix

[Rix]

Dlogic, I saw the size comments you wrote about the rim. I missed it the first time around.

Rix

[Mr Lowbank]

cruzxia
You can also get M14 x1.5 wheel nuts and flatten the end.
here are some nuts made from aluminium alloy
http://dasrestoparts.com.au/aluminium-alloy-wheel-nuts-porsche-style-m14-1-5-x-32mm-long-aluminium-finish-set-of-5.html



Dlogic
That is one nice looking set up but beyond my capabilities hope i catch the new thread

Rex
The problem is that you need to hold the axle and the swing arm tight to the axle block if you fix one the other will move.

I am looking at getting a new modified axle made with bigger flats and tight fitting blocks. Dose anybody know about any issues when pressing an new axles into the motor stator?

[Kepler]

Kepler,
Those fighters are beutiful. Like I said, I may order a green fighter next year to go with my green bomber and now I know what the green one looks like. I am surprised with the differences between used current on the fighters. 690wh vs 450 wh. Thats around 33% less current from you. Impressive. Here is some pics from Spooner summit near Tahoe and Marlette lake. Serious climb. I took it easy and my hub never got that hot. But the controller did. Couldn't touch it at one point. Then I hit a down hill and it cooled quickly. I am wondering if the slow climb combind with the little air flow caused it. I was only drawing about 1500 watts continues and my speed was around 9-11 MPH (15-18 KPH). I got up over 8000 feet elevation (2500 meter or so) before I dropped down into the lake.

Rix

That's a decent climb Rix. Not surprised the controller was getting hot at that speed and power output. To control speed, these controllers are basically switching the power on and off through the FETS. The faster you go, the less the FETs need to switch (basically staying on for longer periods) and as such, for a given current output, the more efficient they become. The controller may have run a bit cooler if you had rode a bit quicker however the power used to go faster may have also offset the controller efficiency improvement and still gotten just as hot. Bottom line is that low speed and steep hills are tuff on controllers (and motors). Both the Bomber and Fighter use 18FET controllers with genuine 4011 FETS. These are obviously up to the task as its rare to hear of controllers failing in these bikes.

[Rix]

Kepler,
Thats good to know. I was thinking I would be better off by WOT and completing the climb much quicker. I think when I get the 5404 and the 23 inch knobby on, that will cut down on the heat I occasionally generate. Probably going to be a month or two, but it will happen.

Cruzxia, I was thinking of getting some of those lug nuts and grinding the ends flat. Then I came across some deep castle nuts and bought a pack of 10. Lots of thread surface area. If the flange nuts I ordered dont work, I will use these and drill cotterpin holes at the ends of the axel. The only way the nuts would loosen then is to shear the cotter pins off. R&D to be continued.

Rix

[cruzxia]

The wheel nuts are a good idea, as the usually have plenty of threads and are hardened.
Don't use aluminum nuts, the thread will peel off on the flat of the axle.

If you fit the wheel nut on backwards so the flat face is against the chain adjuster, the tapered end will give a non sharp end to your axle. If you have a grinder you could grind down the tapered end to give a flat surface. The axle sticks out about 16-17mm so you could remove 4 mm from the nut and it will still cover all the threads.

I found these on ebay, (the nut is 21mm deep, so it will cover all the thread on you axle)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/24-Extra-Large-OPEN-ACORN-WHEEL-LUG-NUTS-7-8-HEX-D2228-/110603512280?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c07ba9d8

[Rix]

The wheel nuts are a good idea, as the usually have plenty of threads and are hardened.
Don't use aluminum nuts, the thread will peel off on the flat of the axle.

If you fit the wheel nut on backwards so the flat face is against the chain adjuster, the tapered end will give a non sharp end to your axle. If you have a grinder you could grind down the tapered end to give a flat surface. The axle sticks out about 16-17mm so you could remove 4 mm from the nut and it will still cover all the threads.

I found these on ebay, (the nut is 21mm deep, so it will cover all the thread on you axle)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/24-Extra-Large-OPEN-ACORN-WHEEL-LUG-NUTS-7-8-HEX-D2228-/110603512280?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c07ba9d8

Cruzxia,
I like these, huge surface area and would look great screwed on backwards. I have already spent $60 bucks on variouse axel nuts for the cause, might as well add a couple of these to my collection.

[cruzxia]

Bomber and Marzocchi 888 RC2X VA

I fitted them to my bomber, no major issues, the lock to lock has improved giving a tighter turning circle. There is no issue with the straight lower crown, it clears the frame by about 1/4".

888s1.jpg (228.53 KiB) Viewed 377 times

I had to move the lower crown down about 5mm past the minimum mark on the fork tubes so that the upper crown clamps the fork, but there is still enough travel (204mm) that nothing can hit if the forks bottom.

Adjustment
The VA adjustment allows you to set the spring preload, so they are easy to get the ride height set correctly. Also has compression and rebound adjustment and end of travel compression adjustment.
I am still setting them up, but so far they feel fantastic, absorbing all large and small bumps with ease.
Now that the front is smooth, I noticed the rear kicking a bit, so I will have to adjust it.

Cruzxia

[Rix]

Bomber and Marzocchi 888 RC2X VA

888s.jpg

I fitted them to my bomber, no major issues, the lock to lock has improved giving a tighter turning circle. There is no issue with the straight lower crown, it clears the frame by about 1/4".

I had to move the lower crown down about 5mm past the minimum mark on the fork tubes so that the upper crown clamps the fork, but there is still enough travel (204mm) that nothing can hit if the forks bottom.
Adjustment
The VA adjustment allows you to set the spring preload, so they are easy to get the ride height set correctly. Also has compression and rebound adjustment and end of travel compression adjustment.
I am still setting them up, but so far they feel fantastic, absorbing all large and small bumps with ease.
Now that the front is smooth, I noticed the rear kicking a bit, so I will have to adjust it.

Cruzxia

Looking good Cruzxia, It sounds like you need to slow down the rear a little. Dial in some the rebound on the bottom of the rear shock. I would adjust in 2 click increments at a time, then when you find the correct setting, you can fine tune by backing off a click or increasing by a click. After I get my motorcycle rim mounted to the 5404, I will be getting a set a Marzocchis also. I know what you mean with the rear kicking. Right now I have mine set slightly fast because the rebound knob at the bottom of the leg on the RST is useless and if I slow down the rear to where I would like it, the front would out run it on rebound evertime I went over a bump or jump. The RST is better than a rigid fork, but not optimal. Let me know what your rear setting are when you get it dialed, I will probably use that as a starting point when I get the Zocchs in a month or so. BTW, did you have to get a new head set, or were you able to remove the dish crown from the rst and reuse it with the Zocchs?

Rix

[Kepler]

Decided it was time to fit the derailleur to the Fighter. Not too difficult to do but there were a few things that should be pointed out.

Firstly the derailleur hanger that gets fitted to the bike needs to be tapped to accept the derailleur mechanism, at least this was the case for a Shimano XLT derailleur. The hole has been sized to accept a 10mm tap. you will need a tap with a 1mm pitch for this job.

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The cluster on this bike is an 8 speed 11-32 and with such a large first gear, I figured l should use a long cage derailleur to deal with large chain wrap. Mechanically this worked out well with no problems selecting all 8 gears. However, I think I will probably change this out for a short cage in the future just to improve ground clearance and overall look.

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Another issue I came up against was that the hanger was fitted quite far back on the swingarm. This caused the chain wrap not to be adequate especially on the 11 tooth. The fix for this was to move the wheel back as far as possible in the swing arm. Once this was done, I could stand on the pedals as hard as I could on the 11 tooth.

IMG_1448.jpg (56.41 KiB) Viewed 328 times

Shifter is a cheap Sunrace 8 speed twist shifter on the lefthand side of the bike. This is actually mounted in the inverted position as its designed to go on the righthand side. However I quite like it as you wind the shifter towards you to shift up. Kind of like twisting the throttle to go faster.

IMG_1441.jpg (63.41 KiB) Viewed 328 times

So now the Fighter has 16 gears to play with. Only done a few short rides so far but there is no doubt the extra gears are going to make it even easier to extend the range this bike. Having granny gearing will come in handy off road but I can see that I will be mostly leaving the Shlumpf in overdrive and just using the 8 speeds on the cluster.

I think I may have some issues with loosing the chain off the chain ring but will look more closely at this if the problem arrises.

[cruzxia]

Rix

I will be interested to see how you go with your 17" wheel and the 5404, I was thinking of using a 20" BMX size wheel, because there is a great selection of wide tyres. I equals ride at speeds of 0-65kph so using a 20" with the stock motor would probably give a top speed of 75kph but with a substantial torque increase.

Fitting the forks, the headset can be reused, the best war to remove the tapered lower locator from the RST forks is to use a 3/4" wood chisel. Put the flat side against the triple clamp and the wedge side against the bearing locator and tap it with a hammer, working your way round the bearing locator. This will not damage the fork triple clamp or the bearing locator.

I will advise the rear shock settings once I have had a chance to do a bit of off roading. I think it is skipping over the bumps, I have backed off the rebound completely, because on minimum it still has plenty of damping. I think that with the heavy back wheel the setup is quite different to a MX bike, because there is so much inertia in the wheel. (I also ride dirt bikes Kx500 in 250 frame) I bought the Bomber because you can ride it anywhere, and I like the "no noise". I liked the Bomber so much that I am building a light weight off road ebike at present, inspired by Kepler's fighter but I started with a Force GT as a base bike, it has great 6" suspension and it was light (13.5kg) I think it will weigh about 24 kg when finished.

Kepler

Good info on fitting the derailleur, I am interested to know what the front sprocket tooth count is and In overdrive what is the ratio? I am interested to know what ratios works with a 24" wheel.

Cruzxia

[remf]

I equals ride at speeds of 0-65kph so using a 20" with the stock motor would probably give a top speed of 75kph but with a substantial torque increase.

Yes but with a 20 inch wheel assuming you're using the same voltage, expect a lower top speed more like 55 or 60 kph. It'll be interesting to see how it looks and rides.

[Kepler]

Kepler

Good info on fitting the derailleur, I am interested to know what the front sprocket tooth count is and In overdrive what is the ratio? I am interested to know what ratios works with a 24" wheel.

Front sprocket is a 38 tooth. Overdrive on the Schlumpf is 1.65 so its like having a 63 tooth on the front. Great spread of ratios now.

[Cowardlyduck]

Decided it was time to fit the derailleur to the Fighter. Not too difficult to do but there were a few things that should be pointed out.

Glad to see more people doing this now. I think it's worth the extra hassles involved for the added flexibility a derailleur allows. Especially once the batteries run out.

Not sure on the details of how mine was setup, Voicecoils did a great job of getting it all up and running for me.

The cluster on this bike is an 8 speed 11-32 and with such a large first gear, I figured l should use a long cage derailleur to deal with large chain wrap. Mechanically this worked out well with no problems selecting all 8 gears. However, I think I will probably change this out for a short cage in the future just to improve ground clearance and overall look.

Mine is a 7 speed, with a long cage also. Voicecoils recently removed an extra couple of chain links for me to prevent chain hop (top and bottom gears), and this also means the cage doesn't hang quite so low when in top gear. Might be something you can also do?

Another issue I came up against was that the hanger was fitted quite far back on the swingarm. This caused the chain wrap not to be adequate especially on the 11 tooth. The fix for this was to move the wheel back as far as possible in the swing arm. Once this was done, I could stand on the pedals as hard as I could on the 11 tooth.

The hanger on mine was too far back as well I think...Voicecoils can confirm, but he managed to work around it. What's the symptom's seen when there's not enough chain wrap? I haven't seen any chain slippage on my 11T.

Shifter is a cheap Sunrace 8 speed twist shifter on the lefthand side of the bike. This is actually mounted in the inverted position as its designed to go on the righthand side. However I quite like it as you wind the shifter towards you to shift up. Kind of like twisting the throttle to go faster.

Mine's a Microshift. Nice and slim..works well, and I even managed to slip my wires for my power limit button underneath it the other day.

I think I may have some issues with loosing the chain off the chain ring but will look more closely at this if the problem arrises.

Yeah, so as mentioned, this was an issue for me...I've yet to confirm if removing the couple of chain links has eliminated this, but so far so good. I was seeing the chain come off both the front chain ring (both sides) and the rear cluster (both sides). One of the other issues I had was the chain would get sucked in between the tire and swingarm on large bumps. A quick jolt of the pedals seemed to sort this out and snap the chain back up. Since remounting the rear wheel in a different position it doesn't seem to be an issue any more though.
My main issue with the chain coming off was when shifting down to 7th (11T) too fast or hitting a bump and having the chain skip onto the axle next to the 11T cog. I would be ok with it if I could just shift back up to get the chain back onto the gears, but it doesn't catch even when I shift all the way up. I'm thinking I might kill 2 birds with one stone and utilize Cruzxia's clamp solution to clamp the axle and help stop the chian from dropping so low down when it comes off the 11T. What do you think?

Another issue that's just cropped up this morning is the chain ring guard (again) seems to close to the chain ring. My chains hitting/rubbing it quite badly...I'm gonna have to attack it with a spanner again to bend it out.

Cheers

[Hyena]

Wow Dlogic, way to up the ante with a cromotor on there
Out of curiosity, why the removable bolt through axle ? I assume the insert you've machined out have the flats on them that are actually holding the motor to the swing arm ?

Kepler, how did you go tapping a thread in that hole ? Do you know if the hanger is chrome moly as well or just mild steel ?
I got the hanger on mine as well incase I wanted to fit a derailleur but I imagine if that section is cromo it'd be a very hard on the die ?
What headlights are you running now ? Are they the $30 ebay ones painted black or something else ?

[Kepler]

CD, could you take a couple of shots of your setup in 1st and 7th gear? That would be good to see.

If you don't have enough chain wrap, the chain will skip under hard pedaling force especially on 11 tooth. If its not skipping, then it sounds like you have enough. It is also more likely to have the chain come off with too little chain wrap. The chain needs to angle back leaving the cluster gear at 45 degrees or greater. Mine is just on 45 degrees as it stands.

[Kepler]

Kepler, how did you go tapping a thread in that hole ? Do you know if the hanger is chrome moly as well or just mild steel ?
I got the hanger on mine as well incase I wanted to fit a derailleur but I imagine if that section is cromo it'd be a very hard on the die ?
What headlights are you running now ? Are they the $30 ebay ones painted black or something else ?

I am not sure if its Cro-mo but it wasn't too hard to tap. I think Cro-mo taps OK anyway.

The headlights came from a Chinese wholesaler that I was looking to do some business with in relation to on-selling. No margin in lights though so I just used the samples for myself. I think they are the same as the ebay lights you are talking about. I just got them anodized rather then clear. Nice strong light though. A single light out shines a magicshine 900 Lumens by a fair bit. The two together turn night into day. I angle them both out slightly for a nice wide spread of light. And yes, I am running a DC-DC now the two lights together draw 22W

[Cowardlyduck]

The headlights came from a Chinese wholesaler that I was looking to do some business with in relation to on-selling. No margin in lights though so I just used the samples for myself. I think they are the same as the ebay lights you are talking about. I just got them anodized rather then clear. Nice strong light though. A single light out shines a magicshine 900 Lumens by a fair bit. The two together turn night into day. I angle them both out slightly for a nice wide spread of light. And yes, I am running a DC-DC now the two lights together draw 22W

I've been planning on doing the exact same thing for my lights. Which DC-DC did you use? Where do you store it? In front of the battery? Does it get too hot?

I'll get those pics at some stage later in the week when I get the chance.

Cheers

[Kepler]

[quote="Kepler"

I've been planning on doing the exact same thing for my lights. Which DC-DC did you use? Where do you store it? In front of the battery? Does it get too hot?

I'll get those pics at some stage later in the week when I get the chance.

Cheers

I got the DC-DC of John at Stealth so I don't know what brand it is. Sits in the front section in front of the batteries. Didn't get too hot when bench testing. Considering I am using 22W and the lights are rated at 10W each, doesn't look like too much is getting wasted in heat.

[Cowardlyduck]

Here we go...this is my derailleur setup. It's 11T-34T.
Sorry for the bad photo quality/angles...it's really hard for me to maneuver the bike out of my laundry where I store it, so just took the photo's in there.

Fighter Derailleur

P1050928.JPG (244.19 KiB) Viewed 300 times

Bottom (7th) gear.

Fighter Derailleur Bottom gear

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Fighter Derailleur Bottom gear 2

P1050931.JPG (241.19 KiB) Viewed 300 times

Top (1st) gear

Fighter Derailleur Top gear

P1050936.JPG (199.76 KiB) Viewed 300 times

Tire clearance.

Tire clearance

P1050934.JPG (227.19 KiB) Viewed 300 times

The tire clearance doesn't seem to be an issue so much any more. I can shift into 1st even with these 3" Berm masters on, where as before I couldn't.

Cheers

[Hyena]

On an unrelated note your temperature stickers just reminded me of something I found the other day.
I've fitted my motor with an internal themostat that cuts out a hall if it gets too hot. I'm on the conservative side with it set at 100 C.
Riding home I gave it a bit of a pelting and as expected it ran fine. Stopped at the letterbox when I got home, chatted to the neighbor for 30 seconds then went to roll down the driveway and it stuttered, telling me the thermostat had tripped. It's a known fact these motors heat up more when stationary but I was surprised considering how cool it was (high single digits) The cover was only warm to the touch and my IR thermometre confirmed it was only 40 oC. Shooting through the air holes onto teh windings though showed they were at 102 oC.
This is on a bigger motor than the stock H35 on the fighters AND with air cooling. Granted I'm putting double stock power through it too but I just thought it was worth mentioning considering alot of people use the 'hand on the side cover' method for seeing how hot the motor is getting. In this cool weather it seems the side cover temps do not necessarily give an accurate representation of how hot your windings are. So don't ride harder than you might normally with a false sense of security from a non-scorching side cover.

[Cursed]

Hello dear stealth lovers,

Been reading this forum for a while now and since my bomber can arrive anytime soon i figured i would join the ranks.
The beast should have been here last week..well last month actually but they ensured me it would arrive this week with an 8 pot brake upgrade to compensate a bit ;p

I am wondering about one thing atm wich is; it comes with a competition wire and set for my country (Belgium) so it would be road legal in terms of speed not in watts,if i understand correctly.
Now would it just be possible to put a swith between the competition wire to ensure to be safe on normal roads and go full beast mode on the trails?

Anymore advice is always welcome

Greetings,
Cursed

Also;Some pictures of Bombers and fighters in the wild would be fun to watch,so gogo post em