Specialized Enduro Comp / BMC Build Thread

[Whiplash]

YEP, if I had never tried an R/C drive, I would DEFINITELY use a BMC or even better a MAC. Especially the new 1000W version from Cell Man with the wider gears and such! My brother has a High speed version of his on a nice F/S Giant that goes 37MPH on only 44.4V Lipo with 30A!!

[oatnet]

Thanks for the kind words, guys!

I finished dialing in the bike yesterday. I had the triple-clamps at the very top of the fork stanchion to raise the bike, but it was throwing the geomtery off. I lowered them about an inch and the bike is more stable. Adjusting the compression and rebound helped too. I drilled 2 more holes in the case, and moved the battery charging plug outside the case so I don't have to open the case for every charge. Best of all, I managed to peel off the awful, bright-red BOXXER stickers from the forks, now they are just a nice white that goes well with the silver frame.

I weighed the bike - lock, lights, bell, etc in place, everything for a normal ride - and got 78lbs for a bike that started at @35lbs, 43lb gain. Well, you add 18lbs for 1000wh of battery, 10lbs of motor, and 7 lbs of case/controller/cyclanalyst, I can account for 35 lbs right there. The other 8 pounds comes from choices for durability, like the hookworms, DH tubes, kevlar liner, and DX-32s, or comfort, like the Cloud9 seat, ergon grips, lock/lights/bell. It adds up fast.

I took it for its maiden voyage today, covering 24.22 miles at an oaverage off 29.3 wh/m, despite heavy winds, sandy paths, and a number of WOT runs. I started dropping voltage faster than I expected at @10ah, and when I got home, the 2 end cells in the 4-cell booster pack I just built were puffy and HOT, so they were over-discharged. They were cool and flat at the halfway point, so I don't know if they got crushed against the box during intial fitment, or if I got heat into them when soldering on the power leads. I'll have to play with them, worse comes to worse I have spares.

On the ride, I came across a kid on skates who had built a power puller using 4 lead-acid batteries, a triple-crown fork, a motor/chain/small wheel. Nice finish and really impressive, wish I'd gotten a picture. I did get a few shots of the bike. The forum seems to cut the pictures off, but there are clickable links at the bottom of the thread.

-JD



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[nicobie]

Clean bike! I like how the wireing came out.

Keep it under 1500 watts and it will last forever.

[jdbauman]

Hi Oatnet,

I am totally inspired by your build. I would really like to build a similar bike. I have been looking for Enduro Comp frames on Craigslist. I was wondering what you thought of this bike on Craigslist.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/bi ... 55520.html

I was also wondering if you know of any good sources in the U.S. for getting a MAC geared motor. Thanks.

Jerry

[jonathanm]

Shame about the cells......

I had a look around for those frames, there are some for sale here and there, but it is amazing how different the frame looks with a paint job and decals. I saw a yellow one on ebay that looked awful....it makes me wonder how many other frames I've turned my nose up at which would have looked beautiful with a sandblast and/or respray...This yellow one looks awful.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/Shimano-Specialized ... 1c1c1dce60

[torker]

Hi Oatnet,

I am totally inspired by your build. I would really like to build a similar bike. I have been looking for Enduro Comp frames on Craigslist. I was wondering what you thought of this bike on Craigslist.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/bi ... 55520.html

I was also wondering if you know of any good sources in the U.S. for getting a MAC geared motor. Thanks.

Jerry

Jerry, I also built an FSR Comp . I have some pics on my thread and more saved if you get one. Let me know. I bought mine, beat up and well used for 250. It does not have the good Fox float shock like the one you linked. Mine is older, probably mid 90s not sure. I've seen one like Oatnets for 550 here on CL.so the price seems close. Maybe you can offer a little less, never know.

[oatnet]

Hi Oatnet,

I am totally inspired by your build. I would really like to build a similar bike. I have been looking for Enduro Comp frames on Craigslist. I was wondering what you thought of this bike on Craigslist.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/bi ... 55520.html

I was also wondering if you know of any good sources in the U.S. for getting a MAC geared motor. Thanks.

Jerry

Wow, thanks Jerry!

That FSR looks good, it is a different frame, not sure how well it is equipped. My only concern about this frameset (2005 Enduro Comp 130) is that the dropouts are not very deep, part of the axle flats stick out. This constipated the build for a long time, until I addressed it with dual torque arms to prevent movement, and long, stabilizing torque arm mounts to retain the axle in the dropouts. I don't think this wheel would move even if I pulled out the bolts.

I have made (3) purchases of a123 prisimatics from cell_man in China, who also sells the MAC motor at a screaming good price, and would be my recommendation for a MAC purchase. For a BMC, I highly recommend Ilia for the best prices. I got this motor core on HighPowerCycle's sale, which was stunningly cheap, but I think the sale is over.

Jonathonm, it was a bummer about the booster battery, I lost (2) cells on it. I am still not sure if I didn't charge it to the same state as the 48v pack, or if it was damaged fiddling about in the case. I built a new 4s pack, ridden it to work a few times this week, but haven't given it the full drain yet. Yeah, I also prefer the understated factory color scheme/lack of decals on the silver frame, and the white boxxer forks too now that I have stripped the decals off.

This is my first full suspension ebike, and I really love it, hard to decide between this and the Vectrix in the morning.

-JD

[jdbauman]

Oatnet,

Where in SoCal are you located? Some of the Pics looks like Corona Del Mar... That's cool that you have a Vectrix too... Have you posted any Vids of it? I would love to see some pics or vids...

Did you lace your own rim on your BMC motor? I'm not sure I would trust myself doing that, but most of the LBS's where I'm at don't really want to mess with lacing electric hub motors I've noticed.

I may have to pick your brain on the cool upgrades you did. I really like the handlebars and seat that you put on your bike.

My idea for my build would be:
1. Specialized Enduro Comp Bike
2. MAC motor (maybe the 1,000 Watt beast from Cell_Man - How long does shipping take from Cell_man, I guess he ships from China?)
3. A Cycle Analyst
4. A LiPo battery pack. I would like to start with a 44.4 V (10Ah) and then maybe upgrade to a 66.6V (10Ah) pack at some point.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I can't wait to get started...

Jerry

[mvly]

how is the weight distribution? How hard is it to turn? I have mine just finished with the battery in the center (triangle area). How do you lock up your bike? In one of the picture it looks like you have a cable lock. Looks like a clean build. Any idea on Top speed and range on those battery you got for it?

[oatnet]

Random Pictures from the 4th and 5th - Mrs Oatnet's ebike, with 8" front disk, bafang rear, 16s3p a123 M1 battery in, and controller on, the ammo Box up front - for a stealthy, pedalable ride. On a 21 mile ride today she used 182wh, for 8.66wh/m.

Our rides locked together. This beach is usually empty but it was PACKED for the 4th.

IMG_4470 cropped 640.JPG (164.01 KiB) Viewed 1822 times

Just a shot I took at the beach that I thought was fun. AFAIK the 69 bikes are not electrified.

IMG_4487 super wow cropped_2_640.JPG (87.16 KiB) Viewed 1822 times

[dbaker]

Very nice build Can you recommend a source for the 36 hole wide rear rim

[oatnet]

Very nice build Can you recommend a source for the 36 hole wide rear rim

I use the Alex DX-32 rim - available everywhere, JohnRobHolmes or Ilia can hook you up.

-JD

[lcyclist]

Hi Oatnet,

Nice bike!

Where did you find those fork clamps you used to mount your battery box?

Thanks!

[oatnet]

Hi Oatnet,

Nice bike!

Where did you find those fork clamps you used to mount your battery box?

Thanks!

1.25" "weight clamps" or "accessory clamps" fit the 32mm stanchions. They are used to mount lead weights etc on tube-frame race cars. These have .25" holes for the mounting bolt, the ones with .50" holes are too big and heavy for my tastes. The vendor for these particular ones is Wehr's Machine Racing, here is the auction where you can buy them:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200344689577

-JD

[nicobie]

Thanks for the link. Exactly what I was looking for.

[oatnet]

Thanks for the link. Exactly what I was looking for.

You'll love them, they are nice and light.

-JD

[oatnet]

Ambrose asked to see inside the battery box, I realized I had other pics I could post of it, so here you go:

IMG_3008_640.JPG

The bottom of the box, where the 8gah wiring exits the box, each to a power switch, which fits into slots I cut into the bottom fins. Note the right side of the photo, the resistor in heatshrink, around the switch. I flip the OTHER switch first, and the resistor lets a the current trickle in to charge the caps in the controller. This avoids a surge at power-on, and gives me a nice way to power up the CA without powering up the full system - to check, or when wheeling the bike out of the garage... When the controller is charged up - a moment or so after the CycleAnalyst boots... Then I close the switch with the resistor, and the system has full current. I originally planned to epoxy the switches in, but the build seems fine as is. The wiring is hid from side view by the flaps the switches are installed in, and from the frunt by the bottom of the hinges.

(62.99 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

IMG_3013_640.JPG

The box sitting open, the two 8gau wires, wrapped in protective heatshring, terminated in 45a andersons (clamped and soldered) inside the case. You can see the bolts/locknuts/washers I used to secure the case to the clamps. I originally planned (6) clamps for this, but tested the waters with only (4), and it seems solid so I stuck with it. I have no idea what the long vertical object is, sitting on top of the case

(65.54 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

IMG_3014_640.JPG

A 50a circuit breaker with 8ga and (2) 45a andersons; it will go in the middle of the pack to give maximum protection by dividing the voltage.

(35.17 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

IMG_3015_640.JPG

Here is the first 8s16ah block of cells going in. It is standing up so that you can see the blue heatshrink I put around each anderson connection to keep them in solid contact. On the bottom is red plastic (from the lid of a storage bin we used as a litterbox) that goes over a layer of high-density foam, covering the bolt heads. More of the foam is at the base of the box (top of the picture) and has blue lines watermarking the height of the sub-packs. Note the channels carved in the foam for the power leads.

(55.73 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

IMG_3016_640.JPG

The first sub-pack installed. Note the power lead top left, tucked into place in the foam. the other side of this battery is connected to the circuit breaker, which is wrapped in red heatshrink (bottom right) and tucked into place.

(51.45 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

IMG_3017_640.JPG

Another layer of plastic, with the warning label indicating that this battery box is not safe for babies. Who Knew?

(49.96 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

IMG_3018_640.JPG

The second battery in place, more blue heatshrink overlapping the anderson's' heatshrink, to protect/clamp the connectors.

(67.56 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

IMG_3020_640.JPG

My first go with this motor was 48v, so I only had two 8s sub-packs in there with a big slab of foam. You can see how the wiring can be neatly folded away on the left side.

(64.13 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

IMG_3022_640.JPG

The back of the completed battery. Note the strain relief on the andersons, the clamps, and you can even see one of the power switches hidden away on the bottom of the case.

(88.51 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

IMG_3055_640.JPG

Here I am adding the 4s sub-pack to bring the pack to 60v nominal, or 74.7v off the charger, and about 67v under load. The lid was easily able to hold all three sub-packs standing on, this box is strong!

(70.99 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

[oatnet]

Here is the charging setup:

IMG_5181_charger.jpg

I got a bunch of these Vicor PSUs for really cheap, loaded with (8) 48v4.2ah cards that can be adjusted from 35v to 58v. Here Ihave them configured as 2s4p, which means I could pump 16.2a from 70v to 116v. It would require 240v to supply that much current though, and while this is 120/240v unit I only have 120v.

(104.5 KiB) Downloaded 58 times

IMG_5239 Charging port.jpg

Here is the charging port on the bike!

(94.3 KiB) Downloaded 58 times

[ambroseliao]

It looks like all of the photos are gone.

Ambrose

[deepfraught]

+1 curious to see the inside of box if the pics can be reposted!

[oatnet]

Hopefully we have seen the end of the disappearing images... I'm gonna keep the original post intact, to see if they ever come back. Here is a repost of the same pics, with the same commentary attached (assuming I got the comments back in the right order!).

-JD

The bottom of the box, where the 8gah wiring exits the box, each to a power switch, which fits into slots I cut into the bottom fins. Note the right side of the photo, the resistor in heatshrink, around the switch. I flip the OTHER switch first, and the resistor lets a the current trickle in to charge the caps in the controller. This avoids a surge at power-on, and gives me a nice way to power up the CA without powering up the full system - to check, or when wheeling the bike out of the garage... When the controller is charged up - a moment or so after the CycleAnalyst boots... Then I close the switch with the resistor, and the system has full current. I originally planned to epoxy the switches in, but the build seems fine as is. The wiring is hidden from side view by the flaps the switches are installed in, and from the frunt by the bottom of the hinges.

IMG_3008_640.JPG (62.99 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

The box sitting open, the two 8gau wires, wrapped in protective heatshring, terminated in 45a andersons (clamped and soldered) inside the case. You can see the bolts/locknuts/washers I used to secure the case to the clamps. I originally planned (6) clamps for this, but tested the waters with only (4), and it seems solid so I stuck with it. I have no idea what the long vertical object is, sitting on top of the case.

IMG_3013_640.JPG (65.54 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

A 50a circuit breaker with 8ga and (2) 45a andersons; it will go in the middle of the pack to give maximum protection by dividing the voltage.

IMG_3014_640.JPG (35.17 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

Here is the first 8s16ah block of cells going in. It is standing up so that you can see the blue heatshrink I put around each anderson connection to keep them in solid contact. On the bottom is red plastic (from the lid of a storage bin we used as a litterbox) that goes over a layer of high-density foam, covering the bolt heads. More of the foam is at the base of the box (top of the picture) and has blue lines watermarking the height of the sub-packs. Note the channels carved in the foam for the power leads.

IMG_3015_640.JPG (55.73 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

The first sub-pack installed. Note the power lead top left, tucked into place in the foam. the other side of this battery is connected to the circuit breaker, which is wrapped in red heatshrink (bottom right) and tucked into place.

IMG_3016_640.JPG (51.45 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

Another layer of plastic, with the warning label indicating that this battery box is not a safe place to store babies. Who Knew?

IMG_3017_640.JPG (49.96 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

The second battery in place, more blue heatshrink overlapping the anderson's' heatshrink, to protect/clamp the connectors.

IMG_3018_640.JPG (67.56 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

My first go with this motor was 48v, so I only had two 8s sub-packs in there with a big slab of foam. You can see how the wiring can be neatly folded away on the left side.

IMG_3020_640.JPG (64.13 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

The back of the completed battery. Note the strain relief on the andersons, the clamps, and you can even see one of the power switches hidden away on the bottom of the case.

IMG_3022_640.JPG (88.51 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

Here I am adding the 4s sub-pack to bring the pack to 60v nominal, or 73v off the charger, and about 67v under load. The lid was easily able to hold all three sub-packs standing on it, this box is strong!

IMG_3055_640.JPG (70.99 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

I got a bunch of these Vicor PSUs for really cheap, loaded with (8) 48v4.2ah cards that can be adjusted from 35v to 58v. Here Ihave them configured as 2s4p, which means I could pump 16.2a from 70v to 116v. It would require 240v to supply that much current though, and while this is 120/240v unit I only have 120v.

IMG_5181_charger.jpg (104.5 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

Here is the charging port on the bike!

IMG_5239 Charging port.jpg (94.3 KiB) Viewed 1536 times

[ambroseliao]

Thanks JD.

Ambrose

[chroot]

Nice FS ebike! I wanted see your opinion on Cloud9 seat and I was thinking get 2 of these Cloud9 seat from amazon with free shipping. Is it comforts sitting long trip?

Let me know

[oatnet]

Nice FS ebike! I wanted see your opinion on Cloud9 seat and I was thinking get 2 of these Cloud9 seat from amazon with free shipping. Is it comforts sitting long trip?

Let me know

Thanks chroot!

I am a big fan of cloud 9 seats, comfortable and durable, they are a standard item for me, and I highly recommend them. When I was planning a line of ebikes using those TF frames I sold here, I bought and tested a good 20 seats to see what suited me. Cloud 9 was the standout product from that test. Note that this is the super-wide comfort version, and not the cheapest brand, but if you've ever permanantly lost a road bike seat in your butt cleavage, this is what you want.

This same testing phase also got me hooked on Ergon grips, On-One 'Mary' handlebars, Dimension adjustable stems, Mirrycle's, and the Thudbuster seatpost. The combination took my rides from painful to comfortable, and I have used them on every build I have done since (except no tbuster on this FS bike). I still have a few seats left from my last order of (10) I also have a wide "exercise bike" Cloud 9 seat that rocks.

Around the same time, I picked up Maxxis Hookworms, Kenda 2.25mm downhill tubes, and Panaracer kevlar liners from ES 'OG' xyster (who I learned lots from, but he left here about the time cliques started to form). I have not had a flat in 4+ years and some 20k on eBikes.

Later on, I standardized on Alex DX-32 rims, they are a great match for the Maxxis Hookworm, the 38mm rim spreads the hooky into an ideal contact patch.

Way more detail than you asked for, I guess once I get started talking on products I believe in...

-JD

[chroot]

I went ahead ordered the cloud9 seat from amazon. Thanks for the review on the cloud9 seat.