emotor had better days!
- Thread starter sparky9
- Start date
StudEbiker
100 kW
I'd say that motor is toast man. Time for a new motor.
dnmun
1 PW
is that a C'lyte motor? is the stator rusted to the hub or can you get them apart?
that should be cleanable... got a gear puller ? :lol:
It is a c-lyte.
Its rusted tight, as in it wont turn at all.
I dont want to give up on it though for sure. If I can get it out of the case and give it a really good cleaning it should work again eh? I will give it a shot for sure!
Is there a safe place that I can tap on to try to get it out of the case?
thanks for any and all help!
Mike
Its rusted tight, as in it wont turn at all.
I dont want to give up on it though for sure. If I can get it out of the case and give it a really good cleaning it should work again eh? I will give it a shot for sure!
Is there a safe place that I can tap on to try to get it out of the case?
thanks for any and all help!
Mike
I'd spray it down with WD40 or similar and let it sit for a bit.. then put the gear puller on the axle and push it out.... i'd avoid hammers to prevent cracking magnets..
dnmun
1 PW
the body shops or auto parts stores carry a phosphoric acid solution used to clean rust before painting. it turns the rust to iron phosphate i guess which may clean the rust itself up so you can then get it out.
WD-40 will eat rust too, i used it the other day to remove the corrosion on the little studs inside my distributer cap. i think it helped, not sure. that was salt related so maybe water woulda worked on that.
don't beat, you may tear the magnets off the hub. try to find the phosphoric acid and see if it will cut the rust first.
if you never got it wet, it came with that water inside. did you buy it used?
WD-40 will eat rust too, i used it the other day to remove the corrosion on the little studs inside my distributer cap. i think it helped, not sure. that was salt related so maybe water woulda worked on that.
don't beat, you may tear the magnets off the hub. try to find the phosphoric acid and see if it will cut the rust first.
if you never got it wet, it came with that water inside. did you buy it used?
StudEbiker
100 kW
Okay, well, shows what I know. 
If you are goingto try to save the motor, the best (and I mean the BEST) thing for penetrating rust is Kroil. As the person that reccomended it to me said, put this on a rusty bolt and rusty bolts up and down the block get loose.
http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4
If you want to remove all the rust, the best method I know is electric.
http://youtu.be/NH9Cd-g23kw
If you are goingto try to save the motor, the best (and I mean the BEST) thing for penetrating rust is Kroil. As the person that reccomended it to me said, put this on a rusty bolt and rusty bolts up and down the block get loose. http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4
If you want to remove all the rust, the best method I know is electric.
http://youtu.be/NH9Cd-g23kw
So, I got both side plates off the motor, and sprayed a metric tonne of releasal into it. I was able to turn the motor a bit, but with a fair bit of effort. Im letting it sit overnight and see if its any better. I will try the suggestions you guys give because I dont think this releasal is going to be powerful enough. Releasal is very similar to WD40, as in it wont kill the rust. Thanks so much for all the great responses here guys! I appreciate it!
Mike
Mike
StudEbiker
100 kW
As long as you dry the motor out when you are done, the water will not be bad for the motor. That process will get rid of all the rust electrochemically. I have used that process on many items and it works great! That video is very basic. Do a little more research on it and there are better ways of doing it than they show in the vid. I used an automotive 12v battery charger, but hmmmm, I bet the 36v SLA charger I have sitting un-used in the corner would work great! 
bigmoose
1 MW
I second the Kroil recommendation, fantastic stuff. Followed by PB Blaster, easier to find at USA auto parts stores, and a harder to find product Gibbs Penetrant from http://www.gibbsbrand.net/industrialuses.html is off the charts good. The secret is not to rush the use of gear pullers, hammers and other persuaders. Let the penetrants work for a good 3 to 5 days.
PS: I don't think much of WD-40 ... nuff said.
PS: I don't think much of WD-40 ... nuff said.
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