neptronix wrote:Pie II on 36S2P is going to be stupid fast.
20S2P will already beat all the local high powered motorcycles i've encountered out here, and geometry / wheelies with a 26in. wheel in the front has became a serious prob.
You might actually have really good results with a Crystalyte HT in a 20in. rim. There is certainly a lot more magnet and copper in those motors, and the diameter isn't all too different.
If you have the means, you may want to lean towards that direction. It'd be something i would experiment with, personally.
The tradeoff might be worse heat dissipation however.
Good luck. You have a great chassis there. I wish i could get my hands on one of those - it's a poor man's stealth bike, imho.
monkeychops wrote:Like the metal box. It looks a really good fit.
Will you have the controller underneath in this configuration as well?
nicobie wrote:I wonder where a guy could find one of those?
shock wrote:Cool build! I like the look of the DIY aluminum box. I would fill that with LiPos and be done with it.
My Question is why 20" wheels and not 26"?
Brentis wrote:shock wrote:Cool build! I like the look of the DIY aluminum box. I would fill that with LiPos and be done with it.
My Question is why 20" wheels and not 26"?
I likes me some torque.
Given equal volts/amps, a 20" wheel will have more torque/less speed than a 26" wheel.
It should also run cooler/ be easier on controllers.
I am looking to build something closer to a moped than a bike.
So a tire upgrade seems prudent.
16" moped tires just happen to fit 20" bicycle rims.
I think it looks kool.
There are other reasons, but I am writing this on an iPhone, and my patience with this format just ran out.
Brentis wrote:Good job J.W.
I have considered sticking with an A123 pack(cell_man).
16s4p fits nice and tight, keeps the manufactured look,
and is basically maintenance free.
Alas, I need more voltage and capacity for what I plan.
I want an honest 64kmh/40mph bike.
Having the flexibility of Lipo, to run either a high voltage/low capacity fast bike.
or lower voltage/higher capacity commuter is paramount.
I haven't used the alu. case yet,as I am still saving my pennies for the lipo packs.
I'll be sure to update when I do.
It's reassuring to see a few of these frames being used.
Where abouts are you located?
Seems quite a few of these were sold in the UK.
Here in Canada they sold coast to coast @ Canadian Tire stores, but each store only moved a few units.
Too expensive I guess ($1000) compared to the Schwinn IZip @ half the price
and the same speed limit, of which they sold plenty.
Back in 2008 when I first got the ebike bug, not knowing anything E, I purchased the Strong.
I was impressed with full suspension, disk brakes, lights, horn, etc.
I rode it for 1 day before it mysteriously "died", in hind sight it was probably a simple fix.
I was pissed, a $1000 for 1 days use. I took it back to the store.
They told me that they had a guy who takes care of the ebikes warranty.
He only came to that store once a month though.
"Give me my money back."
"Sorry we won't except returns on bikes."
I calmly express my displeasure.
They decide that I can exchange for another. I didn't trust that it wouldn't breakdown to.
They suggested I take the Schwinn, plus a few hundred dollars, instead. Much lower rate of problems.
Glad I did, because if I got a full return refund, I may never have looked at another Ebike again.
I'm located in Ottawa and I remember the Strong GT's were sold for about $1200 regular price and $1000 on sale at Canadian Tire, I would never have pumped up that kind of cash for a consumer-grade ebike (meaning, govt-regulated noob machine with no ooomph). So I purchased the Schwinn Invidia--an IZIP with "unisex" frame--on sale for $400 with the intention of overvolting it and was satisfied with it for the first week or so but it didn't give me the ebike grin I got with my later builds. I also didn't like the build quality at all: the rear rim wasn't trued properly and I had to exchange the lead batts 3 times in 2 months because it only gave me 10km range or less on a full charge WITH aggressive pedaling. I have since converted it to a 7S10P LiMn setup, reduced the drive sprocket by 4 Teeth for higher top speed and sold it to a friend for cheap. That will be the last ebike I purchase off the shelf, if I can't build it myself I just won't bother.
By the way on page 2 of this thread you talked about the lateral strength of the swing arm pivot being that it was only 2 1/2" across with 1/4" tangs and if it would be able to take 60km/h + with heavy rims. When we reduce the rim size designed for the frame we're going to increase the stress on the swingarm and reduce load-carrying capacity. Being a steel frame it already handles like a pig and I personally lack the equipment (and the spare parts) to see just how much stress that pivot will take before getting a hairline fracture. We could use a different monoshock or if possible adjust the one we already have for slightly less travel. What do you think?
I also like your idea of using drum brakes for the front rim, where did you get the 90mm Sturney? All I could find was 70mm...
nicobie wrote:I hate that stuff. All it does is make a mess and doesn't work as well as regular yellow carpenters glue. Epoxy might help a little, but I'm afraid that anything you use on a plain butt joint in end grain will fail. Mortise and tenon joints would be the best. If nothing else, after it's glued up drill holes and glue dowels into each joint. Then if you skin the box on all sides with something strong it might hold up for awhile.
nicobie wrote:I hate that stuff. All it does is make a mess and doesn't work as well as regular yellow carpenters glue...
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