RC Turnigy 80100, FS Kona Cowan DJ, A123 build.

[kfong]

The RC setup is nearly complete. Here is a picture of the idler I had to build with my CNC. The wheel is out of black ABS with an internal skateboard bearing. Works very well. I also have the controller finally mounted. Quite happy with how everything is coming together. Currently I have the Turnigy on the bench to be fitted with hall sensors. I still have to build the battery packs out of A123's, but might use Lipo's to get it up and running. The shafts have all been keyed so the only things I expect to break are the chains. Alignment looks good, and I can adjust out any chain issues. It should be a fun bike to jump with all the components near the center. Very solid, should take a lot to break it. It won't be very stealthy but it's sure to turn heads.

final setup.jpg (100.74 KiB) Viewed 2317 times

Controller, I kept the mounting hardware light when possible.

Controller mounted.jpg (91.67 KiB) Viewed 2317 times

Controller mounted 2.jpg (91.75 KiB) Viewed 2317 times

[kevo]

Kfong, looking good, can't wait to hear how it rides and jumps. Where did you
get the Nuegart gearbox from (and do they have 12:1 as well)

OT Have followed your various builds and always been impressed w/ your work.
Wished you had a Bosch 36V interface board like your Dewalt version ...

[kfong]

Thanks Kevo,

The gearbox was pickup on eBay. I wish there was a better source.

I'm sure the Bosch would be just as easy to do, but it's not a battery I own.

[Ratking]

Clean build, looks promising and solid.
Good luck

[crossbreak]

In Germany you may have a gearbox to build en ebike from almost every producer if you ask kindly ( here in Germany there are alot of transmission producer).
I guess if you ask very kindly, almost any supplier would gain you a sample, if not for free when you have commertional interest. So it should not be too exhausting to get another of your 8:1 drives.



Btw suggest to keep distance betwenn BB and your motor box with a direct connection like i did in my (250W) tongxin project.
Chain tensioner:


Chain tensioner for fools but better than nothing

flew away at 1,2 ridden meters but now i've got sth. better... just develop ... (that's all the fun you'll get... besides of ... riding..?)

[kfong]

It's hard to tell if that's #25 scooter chain or a standard bike chain. If it's a #25, your bound to have troubles. I'm only using #25 for my first stage. My output stage is actually 1/2 link BMX chains. Much stronger than standard bike chain. The bike suspension itself pivots around the bottom bracket. No chain growth to worry about. Different from most suspension frames. I really don't expect to see any chain issues, other breakage. If that happens I will truly be impressed.

[kfong]

I finally have the sensors installed in the motor and running on the bench. Going to make a custom throttle for this bike. I don't want the position my right wrist gets during full acceleration or during jumps. Something similiar to a brake lever for the index finger is what I plan to make. The motor is running good with a 7.2 amp no load draw, WOT at 48 volts. The skirt bearing is probably causing the higher current draw. The winding is stock. Going to leave things alone till I see how it performs. Should have it wired on the bike today and finally tested.

Just got it wired up. Wheel spins fine, current is about 8 amps at WOT. I need to setup a temporary throttle. I really like how this build is coming along. I plan to put a small A123 pack in the triangle to keep the bike light. It's already easy to lift as is. Balance is at the triangle, so it should be a good jumper. Throttle response seems smooth and gradual. Can't wait to start playing with this ebike. This was a slow build, but I'm very happy with how it turned out.

[kfong]

Finally took out the bike with my Topeak 12s lipo pack duck taped to the top tube and straddled between my legs for support. Temporary till I make a custom pack. Started down the street, but notice the current limit was set low. Made it to the end of the block and on the way back I could smell the motor. Something wasn't right. Current now on no load is spiking past 25amps. I think the factory windings are shorted. So much for Turnigy quality control. Will have to take the motor apart and get it running again. Wasn't able to get full speed so first test run was disapointing.

[Kepler]

That's a real shame. This is an excellent build. I am following your progress with great interest.

[adrian_sm]

That sucks. Sounds like the motor is toast. This is the sort of story that will force me to open up my 8085 and inspect it all before I even turn it over.

If I was a betting man I would guess the windings were not tight, and one of the strands come out of a slot and got mashed between stator and magnets. I know some other have had issues like this in the past.

+1 on the awesome build. I am just contemplating doing a full suspension build with my 8085, and really like to see how others solve the problems. Cheers.

[kfong]

It took the steam out of the build. I've been riding my BMC in the trails so I haven't had much time to work on it. I will need to rewind the motor, something I'm not looking forward to. I have it off the bike at least. I did purchase an 80mm version recently from leader hobby. I will get it on the bike this weekend. Just finished cutting off the shaft and adding a keyway.

[kfong]

Update, I had both motors sent out to Thudster for rewind. He has been very busy with work and hasn't been able to get to them. In the meantime I saw a sale from Leader Hobby for the 80c100. I just recently recieved it and took it apart yesterday. The quality control is much better than Hobby Kings brand. I will be making a keyway for the shaft today. I've been busy myself, working full time. Any free time gets burned up by trail rides and other priorities. Hopefully this build won't drag on much longer, still have to start on the a123 battery build for it.

[querlenker]

What happened to this project?

[kfong]

It's called winter As soon as riding season starts up sometime in late April, I will work on it again. The last issue I had was the spur gears wearing out to nubs due to the torque. Need to find better quality steel ones. Never did get to push its potential. It did do 30mph. Need to program the Lyen controller, pretty sure current restriction is set. It's still at factory settings. Fairly light setup and well balanced. Can't wait to jump it.

[Ratking]

It's late April, and the riding weather is coming
Would like to see some more work done on this, we need to get more big rc setups running

[kfong]

Yes, I agree. Been busy working full time. I finally had time over the weekend to get back on to this build. I had trouble with the spur gear wearing out, had added a second one only to get the same results. Decided it must be the cheap metal it was made from since driven gear showed little sign of wear. When I tried to install the new gear, I found the original keyway too shallow. I had to bore out the hole to fit the motor shaft. It's nice to have a CNC, but it doesn't solve all your machining problems. I had a small file I could use but it just takes too long, which got me thinking. This is the end result New keyway, looks nice and clean.

This will be my new favorite tool.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m870AjLctk4

[kfong]

Looks like the hardware issues are resolved , I need to work on the controllers settings and battery next. With my GPS, I was topping out at 35mph with a 14S lipo pack. The throttle is predictable and not harsh, I'm hoping to improve the response time a bit through the controller settings. Wear on the gears now seem minimal. Need a new front rim, it has a bit of wobble at speed. Noise from the chain was noticeable, but not loud. I plan to put a housing on it, so the chain won't grab any clothing. Pretty sure it's current limited since it cutoff on me when I tried to climb a hill.

[kfong]

I wasn't able to reprogram the controller, I suspect the serial port is bad, but it could be the software communicating at a wrong baud rate. The software is sending the initialization sequence but I get no response out of the controller, or anything going on in the progress bar.

In the meantime, I've ordered another from Lyen as a backup and a spare for my on going projects. Currently, rewireing it so it can be swapped. Lyen recommend 12 FET 3077 Mark II Extreme Modder as a good choice since I won't be going over 72volts. I would prefer to stay away from higher voltages, just to avoid the extra saftey precautions. I will eventually take apart the current controller to figure why it's not programming as well as increase the traces and mod the shunt.

I spent last evening trueing up the front tire. It was bent badly by the previous owner. Very frustrating to work on, most of the nipples were rounded off. I eventually tore apart the wheel so I could adjust it from the spoke ends. Had to find a flat screw driver bit of the correct size and Dremel out the center, this made another useful tool. The front wheel is now usable. I will eventually need to buy a new front rim, since you really can't get the rim unbent by just spoke tension. I'm getting .1" variation. I will see how it works out first.

[kfong]

Had some time this weekend, picked up a new controller from Lyen. Had some issues with programming the old controller, need to take it apart and see if there is a buffer. Pretty sure the serial section is blown. Was able to program the new controller. Things were going good, but acceleration wasn't what I was expecting. Played with block time only to burn out the controller. Will have to take them apart and see what can be done to fix them Speed definitely improved, maybe I need to bump it to 66v to feel the torque.