GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

[deecanio]

ta, more reading to do then!

D

[andreym]

thanks! it's a nice size compared to MW. maybe time to order TWO.

i might be a bit concerned about charge rate for my old lipo pack. one cell has been dragging, so i gotta keep a close eye on balance there... thanks! maybe now i won't charge like a girl.

I really hope that was you g***r( 64) on ebay who bought one at Mar-23-12 08:23:46 PDT
because right now they are all gone I wonder who could buy the rest 10+ of them?

[GCinDC]

as a matter of fact, that was me.

wanted to try one first since there was no break in shipping two. perhaps i should have got two after all..

[andreym]

as a matter of fact, that was me.
wanted to try one first since there was no break in shipping two. perhaps i should have got two after all..

I`m glad you are lucky
considering your ~700wh pack i doubt you will ever want 2nd to use them in series
However you still can ask your friend dbaker if he have one spare in case you decide to leave one at work and the second one at home. That was the way it worked for me.

anyway to make it 41.5v you will need to short the pin D1 to the pin A3
and to make it power on the pin B3 should be connected to A3
after it powered on, you can use voltmeter to adjust the pot on the top of the case to the exact voltage you want.

I believe the following picture will explain where to solder AC-in(P1-P2) and DC out(P4=positive and P5=negative) wires
and do not forget to use at least 12awg wires for DC output - I tried 14awg initially and those were hot to touch after 2-3 minutes of use, So I replaced mine to 12awg.

[GCinDC]

the following picture will explain where to solder AC-in(P1-P2) and DC out(P4=positive and P5=negative) wires

andrey, you make it too easy for the other 10! thanks, i will need this soon!

that is: IF i get ONE ebike running. both are DOWN right now. i'm so mad, frustrated and embarrassed.

GT i drive:
- halls & phase wires test beautifully on ebike tester (get one if you don't have one)
- tried TWO identical working controllers, same problems - wheel spins but with no power whatsoever, and (slowly) at different speeds using speed switch!
- i've never seen anything like this.
- 83V everywhere
- perhaps the magura throttle line? maybe the inline resistor broke. i'll test a diff controller. that may explain random pulsing i had last week.
- or, maybe a rat crawled in the motor after charlie loosened the sidecover? i can test with another motor...
ok, that's a plan of action at least. less mad now.

DH COMP

I'm charging my battery to 4.3V

enjoying the island?? i wished we could have raced - that way this controller could have lived for longer than TWO rides!

- a hall is dead - or more likely shorted somewhere on the axle - that white plastic woven sheath is shredded near the bearing, so it was surprising it ran on friday
- but on Saturday, i poked the programming connector with multimeter probes and probably ruined the chip -
- that's just a suspicion. i was trying to find a 5V source for my temp sensor, and since there wan't a speed switch connector. one connector gave 5V between the black and other wires, but later lyen reminded me that was the programming connector when i asked him how to solder to the board to add a speed switch connector. might as well build up the bike right and do the proper upgrades. so i popped the controller, added the speed switch, but could not get the bike to run after that! even w/ speed switch disconnected. and something smelled a bit funny.

i may have blown the chip. i'm going to try to program it next, to see if it's alive.

if not, i'll be pretty pissed, as this destructive streak is getting out of hand.

i hopped on my road bike to commute this morning, but the gears are broken.

[binlagin]

Yea GC.... I can totally relate. I had problem after problem with my ebike this weekend and I'm still not back on the road after investing at least 20hours into it.

I'm feeling frustrated and defeated... but I understand that this is all part of the process. I'll try again tonight or tomorrow!

Good luck getting your bikes back on the road.

[GCinDC]

it's been a while since i programmed a controller. from a bit of research i've learned:
- cool XPD: open-source keywin e-bike lab replacement doesn't support new EB3 boards
- the EB212 programming cable different wiring scheme than EB312's

so now it's up to priority mail.

and if i'm bored tonight, i can rebuild DH Comp with 9x7 fatty M/C wheel and sensored controller. maybe even try to solve rear brake alignment issues...

[GCinDC]

nice monday entertainment, recognize anything FT?

[GCinDC]

As for the GT w/ sensored motor, its the old CA. Won't come on and when connected the wheel spins at anemic ~25 percent.

When CA disconnected the motors spin fine. New CA works fine when connected.

Either way I'll be riding an ebike to work tomorrow, with or without CA.

[full-throttle]

nice monday entertainment, recognize anything FT?

Just a few locations and the rider
Thanks for sharing. The drop from the bridge looks scary Like the bit of riding up the brick wall too

[GCinDC]

monster wheel back in, brake on. slight rubbing, a bit noisy. i might add another thin washer inside dropout adapter but the frame is already stretched more than i'd like.

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back together and ready to rock.

the gopro mount. finally upgraded cell phone (galaxy blaze 4G), better quality pics

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and working GPS... the ride is so smooth on that M/C wheel, but damned if i can't go more than 30mph...

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update:
..all great stuff. now i just have to remember to bring my battery charger to work next time. doh!

[hjns]

monster wheel back in, brake on. slight rubbing, a bit noisy. i might add another thin washer inside dropout adapter but the frame is already stretched more than i'd like.
the gopro mount. finally upgraded cell phone (galaxy blaze 4G), better quality pics
update:
..all great stuff. now i just have to remember to bring my battery charger to work next time. doh!

With a big bump, won't the front wheel bump the camera? Why didn't you point the GoPro mount upwards?
I love your monster wheel. When will you put a Cromotor in that one?

[GCinDC]

from yesterday's attempt. just demonstrating programming for anyone curious: usb > ttl driver working (controller attached, not shown). ebike lab program up, modded settings for eb312. start transmit. hold switch for 5 sec. nothing...

waiting on another cable to try again. if no go, the zombies are going to eat this one up. caps will be rolling.

a couple clips from today's commute:

if it looks drugged, that's youtube stabilization at work. won't be using that again..

With a big bump, won't the front wheel bump the camera?

did that answer your q? there was just enough room to clear the fork/wheel.

When will you put a Cromotor in that one?

dbaker's gotten all greedy about keeping his.

totally joking. i am tempted to throw the hs3540 in the trash but i miss the speed! i had no idea how many issues xlytes had...

meanwhile, dave, did you weigh that feather you're pedaling these days? probably weighs less than the shinko 244, huh?

[hjns]

With a big bump, won't the front wheel bump the camera?

did that answer your q? there was just enough room to clear the fork/wheel.

Yes, it does, more than adequately.

[Hyena]

nice monday entertainment, recognize anything FT?

What a maniac, that trials stuff blows my mind how they can just leap up in the air and down over things like that.
Some of that stuff was shot about half an hour from my house!

And yeah that youtube stabilization looks weird! Could be a cool effect if you wanted it in select places though.
Good to see you back riding. Hopefully the bad luck is behind you!
You clear, smudge free gopro videos make me sad

[GCinDC]

You clear, smudge free gopro videos make me sad

hyena beaten? naw... what happened to the clear epoxy and an optical grinder (preferably operated by a hottie in a white jacket) or, ok, by you with a dremel, electric razor or whatever... and yes, your little spot is noticeable (kids!), but i can ignore it. or better yet, if you can't fix it, maybe in postproduction you can create a round mask around the spot and insert a mini video of talking head narration? or something a la Bond intro perhaps?


so second day of commuting on MC wheel and the issues are thus:
- Max speed of 30mph on the flat! Granted, there's a slight rubbing of the tire to frame - i have to 'true' after every jump until i relace and undish the motor (and hmmm... i'm wondering if i can do that with the wheel on. i mean, removing that friggin tire is going to be a JOB with bicycle tools. or, perhaps i can unscrew each spoke (on the right side, that's laced on the rotor inside), bend the spoke enough to yank it out, and re-insert from outside of rotor, and tighten back up in nipple...?

Oh yea, but then the wheel is still in the 9X7 and I'm back to the speed issue...

On GT, with hs3540 on 26" tire, I hit 50mph going downhill! And now I can't do more than 30mph. i'm slowing down cars... it's like someone stuck me back in 2009.

I know I could add more Voltage, but all my stuff is geared for 20s...

So if i kept the MC tire and swapped the 9x7 for the hs3540, I should expect to get a top speed of 40MPH?

(Or a bit less considering the tire bulk, friction, etc - I think I could live with 38mph top speed in that wheel...)
nevermind the efficiency. that'd be ~13 min of fun before overheating...

Or, if I kept the hs3540 in the 2.5" hookworm (not sure how fast sensorless will be), that would compare to 9x7 in MC tire now as (much faster than shown, really):


By the way, is it me or is that HOOKWORM a hell of a lot better tire than the CST cyclops? I've run CST for years and thought since they looked the same, they'd feel the same, but I swear the hookworm is like butter up there in the front. Is the rubber that much better? I know that the tire says "Pro" on it, so maybe it's that, or the evil 'exxon'?

Anyway, I just hit mtbr forum to find out, and found this gem , from here:

[andreym]

Just another graph to make you think again about cro-motor
you should mainly look at the efficiency and torque here...

[GCinDC]

you guys are killing me.

my list of to do's is a MILE long.

i have to also think of my family...

speaking of which... at the cherry blossoms....

[chroot]

@greg- I have Cyclops CST and Hookworm tires, Both same company Maxxis made these tires and I just found out Cyclops CST tires went discontinue production. Good thing, I bought 12 of Cyclops CST tires last week for plenty backup years to run out.

For the comparison, The Hookworm is basically larger wide 2.5" and CST 2.4" and I abused tires pretty much thru the bad roads at high speed. I blew up the tire tube but itself the tires S U P E R B! except I find the Hookworm has kinda built-in Kevlar liner inside the hookworm tire. The Cyclops CST seems doesn't have kevlar liner built-in so I add the Stop 2x tire liner for the flat protection.

The traction, I pushed my ebike hard every corners (former motorcycle racing 600cc super stock class) and Both have been excellent traction.

The side wall, I find Hookworm has thick sidewall than Cyclops CST has super thin sidewall which is noticeable Cyclops CST act like sponge when hit the bumpy = AWESOME feeling smooth comforts ride so the Hookworm is bit rough every time hit the bumpy and your body scattered.

I just started using Cyclops CST, Haven't put miles on it yet, I put hookworm almost 7000 miles and still look brand new.

Did this answer your question?

[GCinDC]

former motorcycle racing 600cc super stock class

that partly explains why you buy enough for a large family.

i'm loving the hookworms.

re the lacing, this is what i'm talking about changing, as i can't center the wheel enough w/ truing. would it be best to have the butt ends INSIDE the rotor flange our OUTSIDE?

20120328_153126.jpg (159.99 KiB) Viewed 335 times

the outside ones look a bit bowed, so probaby better remve them and lace on inside?

[shorza]

from yesterday's attempt. just demonstrating programming for anyone curious: usb > ttl driver working (controller attached, not shown). ebike lab program up, modded settings for eb312. start transmit. hold switch for 5 sec. nothing...

Have you tried a different Comm number?

That removable battery enclosure looks great, and I may blatantly copy you with my next build. I don't have a frame yet, but am considering the DH Comp.
I'm planning 6 x 6s 8ah lipo. Do you think it will fit?
What's holding it in besides the elastic rope?
Are you worried about it falling out? or someone stealing it?

Cheers,
Chris

[GCinDC]

Have you tried a different Comm number?

yeah, the the usb > ttl driver's on comm 4, and i had to set it. if i didn't do it in vid, i did it later.

That removable battery enclosure looks great.... What's holding it in besides the elastic rope? Are you worried about it falling out? or someone stealing it?

Thx, but it's just a prototype to see how it works. Fits and removes fine, but i really don't need to remove it now that it's warming up and I can charge in place. And while the bungee worked great on the GT shape (particularly as i used it to hold my kryptonite lock on the right side), the bungee doesn't fit well on the dh comp. when properly tight, it's very secure, but you may have noticed in vid when it fell out, before it was bungeed properly.

Yes, always worried about bike being stolen, not so much about the pack, but I'm careful about where I park and for how long. I lock the frame and the pack (thru the handle).

I'm planning 6 x 6s 8ah lipo. Do you think it will fit?

no, not unless you carve off a triangle of the lipos . i did a quick mock up for you:

The attachment 3x6s8ah.jpg is no longer available

gotta run, but here are teaser photos for the next upgrade (drama):

The attachment 3x6s8ah.jpg is no longer available

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more later.

[crusoe]

That removable battery enclosure looks great, and I may blatantly copy you with my next build. I don't have a frame yet, but am considering the DH Comp.

Where is this enclosure you speak of?

[GCinDC]

Where is this enclosure you speak of?

you have to send me $5 by paypal and then i'll send pictures of it.

or, you can see pics of it in development from p. 1-5 of this thread, with the more recent here on p.6, but beware that you'll actually have to click the page number. (it's just a quick and dirty, nothing to rival keyne's and co..)

so, andrey, how did my wiring job compare to your diagram? your instructions were to:

car1248pinout.png (10.21 KiB) Viewed 256 times

1) AC in on P1/P2
2) Jump D1 > A3 (41.5V)
3) Add Power SW on B3 > A3
4) P4 = + and P5 = -

20120328_2157132.jpg (147.48 KiB) Viewed 254 times

I found it rather challenging to solder to the jumper pins and accidentally soldered two by accident, (foreshadow) but i finally succeeded on D1>A3, and then realized that since B3 is a shorter pin, I could cut up and insert a JST-XH to connect to the SW line....

Then I took particular attention to your suggestion below and chose 12g HK noodle wire:

and do not forget to use at least 12awg wires for DC output - I tried 14awg initially and those were hot to touch after 2-3 minutes of use, So I replaced mine to 12awg.

After soldering it all up, I plugged it in and measured 42V at the end! WOOHOO!

I knew I'd need to figure out a way to secure those connection points, but it was getting late, and I was determined to get this charger running for today (since I had a long noon errand). So I went and built the 20s -> 10s battery connector/plug, after carefully drawing it up, soldered it:

Then I was about to epoxy the connectors, ideally on the pack so it mated perfectly, so I put each connector pair in place slowly, thinking of etard's kff, and trying to convince myself that I did it all correctly, when I gently made contact with the last connector and suddenly heard this zapping, frying sound somewhere on the charger.

I yanked off the battery connectors and damnit, half of the strands of the 12g HK wire had frayed out over the jumpers! I should have tinned those leads, but instead twisted the strands and soldered them in place, but obviously didn't get them all!

Horror. Disbelief. Shame. Denial. Apathy. Disgust. It was after midnight so I went to bed.

This morning I unsoldered the HK noodle wire and soldered in place 2" of solid 12g household and made sure the other pins were clear. I plugged in the AC and was greeted with more odd electronic sounds, which I'm started to equate with ebike pain:


I let it go for a bit longer, and then the FAN cam on! A reprieve! I bravely hooked it up to a pack but nothing happened, and then checked the DC output and there was nothing, 0V...

What makes that sound? Any suggestions what to look for?

And stop laughing emil, or I'll make an animated gif of the last pictures you sent from that island.

I don't think dbaker will answer the phone next time I call. Don't worry, I haven't fried your ebike tester, yet...

[andreym]

What makes that sound? Any suggestions what to look for?

I believe this sound does not mean good news
I forgot to warn you about those unused pins, they should not be shortened to output or input wires.
If you are sure there is no more short and you still hear this relay clicking I`m afraid it is damaged
And unfortunately this thing is not so easy to repair because it is not simple Chinese charger that could be fixed by replacing crappy mosfet ...