GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

[GCinDC]

rear caliper w/ attached banjo at left. lever cable at right broke off banjo end, shown pointing up here:

i'd thought the new shimano fitting (black) would slide into calipers/lever body, but you can see it obviously won't fit.

but if i could find a reducer for the black fitting (7.8mm including threads) to mate the old hollow bolt (5.9mm including threads), i would do that.

or, there must be a shimano hyro hose/fitting that would screw into the existing sized body, but how to find??

[etard]

Holy Cow Greg!!

You're running into more problems than I usually run across, frustrating it must be!

Have you considered getting one of the scooter brakes like Farfle and Thud use? Cheap smooth and STRONG! Not sure if the rotors bolt pattern is the same, but maybe farfle can make you an adapter if you go this direction. The rotors are also twice as thick, so might be able to use a two bicycle rotors instead of the thicker scooter rotor.

Like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Left-Brake-Mast ... 064wt_1003

Good luck bro, I feel your pain...

edit:

One other option for that banjo bolt might be to find a regular bolt that fits and then just drill it out banjo style. Unless, the bolt has some sort of compression fitting at the end, in which case I wonder if a cardboard or rubber o ring would seal the fitting. Just some thoughts... You also may try some other local LBS to see if they have the banjo part in a junk drawer somewhere.

[Lenk42602]

rear caliper w/ attached banjo at left. lever cable at right broke off banjo end, shown pointing up here:

i'd thought the new shimano fitting (black) would slide into calipers/lever body, but you can see it obviously won't fit.

but if i could find a reducer for the black fitting (7.8mm including threads) to mate the old hollow bolt (5.9mm including threads), i would do that.

or, there must be a shimano hyro hose/fitting that would screw into the existing sized body, but how to find??

Greg,

universal hose kit, comes with a bunch of different fittings for all manufacturer-specific fittings:
http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Disc-Hose-U ... B004NN3BSS
(i know this wil work, had to order a kit for my rear wheel)

or you can just do a buy for the fittings only:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2907063538 ... si=y&cbt=y

Len

[GCinDC]

universal hose kit, comes with a bunch of different fittings for all manufacturer-specific fittings:
http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Disc-Hose-U ... B004NN3BSS
(i know this wil work, had to order a kit for my rear wheel)

holy confidence, batman. i love it, but how do you know? did you have shimano deore xt br m755's too?

i was up at the hardware store when you so psychicly wrote, etard. the hollow bolt is an M6 x 1.0 thread. i could totally drill a longer one out, add a pair of nuts in the middle to tighten with and mount an O ring on, but i'd need to compression fit w/ new hose somehow.


in the meantime, i'm going to hunt for more specs for the universal. how could it possibly be universal?? i'd first like to know how long it is, but if it fits m6 x 1.0, i'll buy it, even if i have to drive to ohio. lol. i need a road trip.

[GCinDC]

or you can just do a buy for the fittings only:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2907063538 ... si=y&cbt=y

i see. looks like you slide big nut and olive over hose, then insert banjo end into inner tube and tighten to seal.

i'm liking that, but x2 + hose adds up to more perhaps...

[Lenk42602]

i have only ever ordered the Gator Brake universal kit. The kit comes with every type of adapter you might need for any type of brake (X2). and a reference chart for what maufacturers use for their fittings....

make sure you push those inserts all the way in, so they are flush with the edge of the hose. can be a bitch sometimes..

len

[GCinDC]

ordered the silver mesh deal. thanks, len!

i should really start a tech thread on 19" x 1.85 Motorcycle wheels, cause it took me forever to figure it out, but for those of you who can't wait (moonshine), allow to clear up some mystery: the 1.85 refers to the inner wheel dimension.


the outer dimension is 2.5":


so for those of you thinking you'll fit a 21" MC wheel in DH comp, you'd have to run it on the rim, cause you'd never get a tire to fit inside the frame...

[gensem]

MC rims are all measure from inside, i did my own mistake ordering a 2.15 one at first, im running my cromotor in a 1.40 in a regular frame with almost no clearance... with a 1.85 you ll easily end with a tire thats 3.5" wide.

[Duc998]

mind if I ask you where u got your 44T and chainguard mate? I'm stuggling to find one. I ordered a 46T from ChainReactionCycles but
it was a outer ring not single drive doh. Also need the chainguard to stop my work pants getting caught

Finally starting work on my dh comp and shit I have to order more things! Have to get a left hand shifter, Chain ring + guard + anything that I find in this thread

Got my 9c in ok, bit worried about the offset with 26" with 2.2 tyre. I grinded the 9c axle stopper on the disc side a bit to push the wheel more towards the disc side. That way I did'nt have to use any washes for my rear brake mount and hopefully that helps with the dishing a bit as the amount of offset and the dishing required to get it to the center scares me a bit. I'm taking it to a bike shop to get it done.

[moonshine]

FINALLY!!!! SOME CLARIFICATION ON MC WHEELS!!! Thanks GC, im still gonna go with the 21" though. haha jk man. But my plan now...is to wait for JRH to get back to me. Although, what i'll end up doing most likely is keeping my 5404 laced in the stock 26"x 1.5" rim and then lacing the hubzilla into a nice 19"x1.85 excel rim. That way i can still zip around on my 5404 and patiently (forget) wait for the hubzilla to get a custom lace job. NOW IF I COULD ONLY GET KIWI'S DROPOUTS TO ARRIVE!!!!

[GCinDC]

mind if I ask you where u got your 44T and chainguard mate?

freebie from previous owner.

take your pick of the rennan chainrings that adrian cited, p5 (or the schlumpf type that alan linked to below. if you're just doing street, you don't need the bashguard.

Got my 9c in ok, bit worried about the offset with 26" with 2.2 tyre.

hmm. i wouldn't worry too much, as long as it's not banging the chainstay.

but really guys, the best thing is to post these kinds of questions and issues in your own threads. experienced folks will be more willing to help out, cause it's kinda thread jack. i don't mind it too much, but i'd much prefer to jump into your thread and help out. take tons of pics. some problems take time to work out and it just gets friggin messy to try to work them out in someone else's thread. i love that there are so many dh comps out there now, and consequently good solutions to similar problems. i'm subscribed to all of them that i know of, so happy to help out. and if you're not getting help on a post, you can pm me to request some help there.

i'll take a lot of pics of my new hs3540 when i open it up, but i can see the wire groove looks a bit deeper and rounder, and filled w/ epoxy or caulk?

anyone else got one from ebikessf and know the wiring diagram? the halls are on a mini xlr, so i'm trying to decide if i should just snip it and use the standard white halls connector - but i don't have a good crimper for that size contact. or maybe i'll add an extension with a mini xlr on one side and the standard white halls on the other. in any case, does anyone know the.... nevermind. i just did an image search of an xlr pinout and found this ebikes.ca image:


so then the next thing is to figure out how ilias wired the temp sensor wire (standalone white wire w/o connector coming out of wire bundle). the sensor inside the motor must be piggy backing on the halls current? so i'll need to piggy back on halls from the controller side to complete the circuit? or can a temp gauge run off a single wire, as long as it get current from somewhere else? hard to imagine...

[GCinDC]

waiting on universal silver mesh. from NJ, i thought they'd ship fast, but estimate in system is May 15. everyone comments on their fast shipping, so hopefully it'll come sooner.

but i'm just driving 75% using only front brake, which is new and a bit noisy - just an even hissing sound, but how long do they take to break in (pardon the pun)? i'm trying to avoid hard stops.

ilia said spokes are measured from the inside of the shoulder to the threaded end, which confuses me, but said he'd cut and rethread the ones he cut too long.

and in the meantime, i still trying to think through the lacing. i'm getting confused. i have been thinking about insert all the spokes from the tight side to dish the wheel towards the center, but browsing through the pics/vids of the old mc wheel, i see that's how it was spoked and it was too much! doh!

dished.jpg (42.9 KiB) Viewed 1006 times

i keep being confused cause when i have to true it, it's always upside down!

dished_rubbing.jpg (39.05 KiB) Viewed 1006 times

[edit]part of the answer depends on much a curved 9C is off center compared to an hs3540...

perhaps there's an in between lacing pattern...

[GCinDC]

left handed cell phone vid of potential future unauthorized DC ebike race track:

video aborted at sight of fuzz a bit further down the track

[Stone Meadow]

but i'm just driving 75% using only front brake, which is new and a bit noisy - just an even hissing sound, but how long do they take to break in (pardon the pun)? i'm trying to avoid hard stops.

Your pads are almost certainly fully broken in after a few rides. In case they aren't...to "break them in" you can use the following procedure for pretty much any organic or semi-metallic pad: accelerate up to about 30 mph (or as fast as your bike will go if it won't do 30), then slow to a stop using moderate brake pressure. The idea is to get heat into the pads and bed them into the discs, so don't use unusually light braking. Rinse, repeat half a dozen or so times, then let the pads cool off to ambient temperature and they are ready to rip. If the pads are not getting really hot, use more braking effort and start the count over again.

Added notes: the procedure above should be used with clean/new discs. Be sure to remove any old pad residue from the discs (emory paper then wash & rinse the discs) before bedding new pads unless the new pads are the exact same make & model as the previous ones. With new discs be sure to clean off any varnish, grease or other anti-rust coating them come with in the box before bedding new pads.

[GCinDC]

holy crap, it WAS a race track! never knew about the 2002 Grand Prix of Washington, then cancelled because of noise.

grandprixtrack.jpg (77.34 KiB) Viewed 927 times

a bit long for an ebike track, but better than a parking lot.. and convenient bike paths nearby for easy escape.

meanwhile, there are times when the embarrassment is almost too much and it seems only the asylum awaits.... i was studying my 26" hs3540 when i realized i've got mine backwards, with the extended side on drive side rather than the disk side...

20120509_131044.jpg (228.56 KiB) Viewed 927 times

compare to:

a simple casual mistake that i'm surprised could be made. and an offset solution?

and charlie fans will appreciate this. at the park, he came by and asked me to take off his shoes. why? to get better footholds of course...

my other kids could never have done this at 2yrs 4 mo...

stop using moderate brake pressure. The idea is to get heat into the pads and bed them into the discs, so don't use unusually light braking. Rinse, repeat half a dozen or so times, then let the pads cool off to ambient temperature and they are ready to rip.

thanks! of course i forgot to clean the new pad tho i was careful not to touch the business ends. i wouldn't have thought to rinse them. i'll try that. the rotors are brand new, perhaps no name. hope that wasn't a mistake. cheers. appreciate the answer!

[Stone Meadow]

stop using moderate brake pressure. The idea is to get heat into the pads and bed them into the discs, so don't use unusually light braking. Rinse, repeat half a dozen or so times, then let the pads cool off to ambient temperature and they are ready to rip.

thanks! of course i forgot to clean the new pad tho i was careful not to touch the business ends. i wouldn't have thought to rinse them. i'll try that. the rotors are brand new, perhaps no name. hope that wasn't a mistake. cheers. appreciate the answer!

Don't rinse the new pads...just the discs. That's to prevent emory paper residue or the former pad's material getting mixed in with the new pads, or tearing them up.

[Sacman]

NICE!!!
Charlie's a natural monkey... I like it.

[GCinDC]

I still find it hard to believe that DH-comps have some kind of a offset in their swing arms.

i took a closer look with the wheel off. damn...


but check out the ding.

i marvel the original owner didn't limp.

the gold level is square to the frame


and yeah, reversing the rotors would only make it worse:


so i unlaced the wheel, removing the 135mm spokes:


and i relaced it with the old 130mm spokes, with all the spokes going in from the drive side, therefore drawing it closer to the disk side, trued it up pretty nice i'd say and whipped that mofo tire on.


tomorrow i've gotta find a radio shack that's got mini xlrs..

[GCinDC]

couple clips from the lacing

[GCinDC]

motor wires are so short! will have to move the controller again. before i do, someone help: how is the temp sensor (white) wired?

last time i played around w/ multimeter i fried a controller chip. i ran my temp sensor off halls current. surely it needs some current to operate, right?

i bagged the mini xlr and attached my standard connectors. want to run stock for tests before upgrading.

so sleepy. i attached wrong (female) halls connector...

[Hyena]

someone help: how is the temp sensor (white) wired?
last time i played around w/ multimeter i fried a controller chip. i ran my temp sensor off halls current. surely it needs some current to operate, right?

No necessarily - it depends on what type it is. If it's a 3 leg chip type it's probably running off the 5v hall supply, if it's a thermistor it's essentially a resistor that changes resistance with temperture, in which case it's probably piggy backing on the -ve hall wire. Put a multimeter across the white and black wires and see if you get resistance. Failing that you could always ask the supplier

[full-throttle]

Do the new HS motors come with the temperature output?

Would be interested to see whether it's LM35 or thermistor based

[Hyena]

Do the new HS motors come with the temperature output?

Not standard, I guess it was a custom order. Something I wish I knew about when we were ordering the 5400s (and my other others) as I would have definately had it included! Trying to get Kenny to do even routine additions seemed hard enough though.

[GCinDC]

ah, here we go, from here:

New 2012 Crystalyte H3540 cruiser rear hub motor. NSK bearings. Honeywell S411 hall sensors. Built-in 2K thermal sensor ....

i see someone else had a question..

more research to be done. the wire exit looks much better than the last hs3540. looks almost filled with epoxy. and i almost hate to remove the side covers. i'll be pissed if one of the bearings sticks on the axle. better to remove the rubber caps before lifting the sidecover? they've never survived one of my battlefield surgeries...

[GCinDC]

thanks to len for the link to the alligator universal hose kit. the hose is stainless mesh w/ kevlar and plastic coating and the kit came w/ a bag of fittings. cool hipster at the bike rack on Q st cut the cable for me for free. the rest was cake.

ready to bleed: