Genesis V2100 Build

[cohberg]

I just took the rear shock apart and it looks like the "piston" is nothing but a metal rod with rubber gaskets. i guess that gets added into the to be replaced list.

[boppinbob]

I also have a Genesis V2100 build. I am pleased so far with the outcome. Mine is a 72v lipo system with a Crystalyte Hs 3540. If I add more lipos I might put my controller where yours is located. My controller is on a rear seatpost mounted rack. I'm thinking about getting rid of the front disc because it sucks and getting bulldog linear pull. Did you notice it has a mount for linear pull brakes on the front? I sure would like to get farfle's swing arm. One of these nights I'm gonna get drunk and pm him to send me one. Budget be damned.

[cohberg]

Did you notice it has a mount for linear pull brakes on the front?

Linear pull as in v-brakes? (a brief search of " bulldog linear pull" didn't come up with anything)
If so, no, there are not any posts for v-brakes on my fork (and to my knowledge any genesis bike fork).
Why would you go backwards from superior disk brakes to v-brakes? Just increase the size of the rotor or get some hydraulics if you need more stopping power.

I sure would like to get farfle's swing arm. One of these nights I'm gonna get drunk and pm him to send me one. Budget be damned.

lol. yeah i might try fabbing my own: that swing arm is pretty sweet.

My controller is on a rear seatpost mounted rack.

I'm curious. I've seen a lot of builds with the controller all by itself on the rear rack. Why would you put something that needs to be cooled in your slipstream. I put my controller near the front wheel on the frame for cooling and weight distribution. Granted its more likely to get damaged by crashes, water etc.

[cohberg]

Started hand filing the paint off the dropout in preparation for doctorbass torque arms. It looks rough, but thats because the dropout itself is not perfectly flat and I need to file it all level




Finished wiring up the hub and hot gluing everything down. Stupid USPS is late again so I didn't get my varnish today. Will varnish and then reassemble the hub when the varnish arrives.



Its a mess, I know. But all the hot glue, zipties, tape and fiberglass insulation is to try to make it as durable as possible. With the varnish on, it should look a lot cleaner

[boppinbob]

Granted its more likely to get damaged by crashes, water etc.

That was my thinking, but It's no biggie to move the controller if I decide to go from 20s1p 8Ah zippys to 20s2p to give me 16Ah then I'll need that rack for 4 more lipo bricks.

[boppinbob]

PS I'm glad to see you are getting those Torque Arms. Those aluminum dropouts are dodgy at best on a high powered bike. I lost a gear on the rear derailleur because it shifts the derailleur 3/8 of an inch outward, but peddling is useless above 15 mph anyway. Losing the gear might because I did not dial the adjust the derailleur very well also. I changed the shifter brake modules and installed Shimano trigger shifters and used Crystalyte brake levers brake inhibits that cuts the motor off when the brakes are applied. I thought I didn't need it until I was startled by a truck that pulled out in front of me and my stopping distance way increased by my not cutting the throttle fast enough.

[cohberg]

PS I'm glad to see you are getting those Torque Arms. Those aluminum dropouts are dodgy at best on a high powered bike. I lost a gear on the rear derailleur because it shifts the derailleur 3/8 of an inch outward, but peddling is useless above 15 mph anyway. Losing the gear might because I did not dial the adjust the derailleur very well also.

Well on my GM, the first gear is usable but the derailer scratches the side cover: I just don't shift there, haven't felt the need to remove it.

I changed the shifter brake modules and installed Shimano trigger shifters and used Crystalyte brake levers brake inhibits that cuts the motor off when the brakes are applied. I thought I didn't need it until I was startled by a truck that pulled out in front of me and my stopping distance way increased by my not cutting the throttle fast enough.

Well i have throttle and front brake both on the right hand side. Its either throttle or braking and i ride with my index finger on the brake. i found the brake cutoff to be dangerous in heavy traffic situations so as a backup my main cutoff is on the throttle in case of runaway.

[boppinbob]

i found the brake cutoff to be dangerous in heavy traffic situations so as a backup my main cutoff is on the throttle in case of runaway.

I hope I like the new setup. I like the idea of having some sort of emergency cutoff anyway. PS I didn't mean I took a gear off the freewheel. It just won't shift to the last gear.

[migueralliart]

The 203mm to me were the best upgrade so far. I wish we could have a better option to put a rear torque arm, something that'll look nice. I just don't know if I need it running 36V sometimes 48 with no regen...

[cohberg]

The 203mm to me were the best upgrade so far.

definitely

I wish we could have a better option to put a rear torque arm, something that'll look nice. I just don't know if I need it running 36V sometimes 48 with no regen...

with no regen and esp at that power level you'll be fine. Its primarily the regen that causes the aluminum fractures: the rocking motion fatigues the metal over time.

[cohberg]

Productive and frustrating couple of days.



Varnished the stator with Sprayon Clear Varnish . Would definitely recommend to anyone venting their hub

I also got my torque arms from doctorbass and dp420'd them onto my bike





Now for the frustrating part.

Like the noob I forgot to jot down which color phase / hall each wire was before replacing them with lower gauge stuff, so i'm stuck trying all 36 combos. The only problem is that I have tried all of them a couple times and none of them work

Well one of the combos kinda works but its loud as hell (constant growling) and I need to spin it to get it to work.

The halls are functioning well, and none of the phases are shorted out. Could I have a controller issue?

Arg.

So in the mean time i'm going to prep the new meanwell I got for the r33 mod with external pots (both voltage and current), voltmeter, and fan cooling.





Video to come of hub motor retardation.

[cohberg]

edit

[cohberg]

Its been a long while since I've had time to update but I feel that its good practice (however late) to keep a rolling list of upgrades or mods so that others can evaluate and learn from the collective knowledge pool.

So here goes.

Historical

Going back to the original greentime controller fails, it turns out that when my phase wires melted, it shorted with one of the hall sensor sense wires. Interestingly enough, it only damaged the single input pin on the cpu. I tried a cpu swap from a hua tong but without a heat gun its pretty difficult. I actually managed to get it operational, but it exhibited a lot of jerky behavior. I eventually discovered that several vias on the board had been partially vaporized and after repairing several of them under the cpu, I ran out of room for "vias" (drill a hole and drip solder through) and had to scrap the board.

I ended up getting a 18 mosfet 4115 controller from Lyen. I regret not getting a 4110 but my reasoning behind still stands: I don't want to run components at their rated limit. I'm still running 24s but now I have the option of going to 28 or 32s. Also, I have to admit that I thought that the programming ability was very overrated but after having that ability to flash and re-flash my controller rapidly I've decided that its a huge advantage over having to open it up and solder changes. I also have a backup 15 mosfet chinese controller now in case I blow a mosfet on the Lyen.

After putting a couple hundred miles on the bike with the new controller, I had a I had a rim shearing incident. The cheap chinese rack that came with my starter kit fell apart en route to school and one of the support beams got caught in the spokes. As a testament to the strength of the 12 gauge spokes, they tore cleanly out of the rim and were in good shape. After a week and 40 dollars, I was back! This was solely to the collective knowledge of the 'sphere. if I had gone to the local bike shop it would have cost me over 200 dollars and I would have been bikeless for 2 weeks! I really recommend watching ypedal's video on relacing/rebuilding wheels. It was very helpful. Also Eighthinch's Bueler rim is a perfect match for golden motor's rim because of its ERD, width and construction.

After that incident, I wanted to move my big pack (24s 10ah) into the triangle because I didn't want to ever deal with a rear mounted battery (handling was horrible). So using only dp460 (slightly better characteristics than dp420) I made myself a battery mount. It has 4 bolts that allows me to remove it completely from the bike in minutes and also allows me to securely mount my controller mosfet side facing out.

To be replaced with better pictures



The only reason that I made such an elaborate / bulky system is because I really don't have any tools on me and dp460 is really the way to go when your frame is aluminum.

I also implemented a Dr.Bass/Tench style charging/balancing system using DB-37 connectors. The difference between 1 plug and 18 plugs is ... well, 18 times better

Observations

DB37 connectors are really easy to work with, would recommend.
Magnet wire is a great way to upgrade phase wires, also would recommend.
Cycle Analyst is really only priced that way because its the only game in town. Arduino + Android is the way to go.
The stock fork on the genesis is S#*t.

Planned Upgrades

Jeremy/Kfong soft start system
Full implementaing of Tench's run plug system
Onboard charger (zero style cabling)
New fork
Paint
Replace Derailleur
Arduino + Android

I've put nearly 500 more miles on the bike. Here is to thousands more

[cohberg]

[DragonPhyre]

How is the bike? I see you don't use a Torque arm... How is that working out for you?

EDIT: I missed the entire second page... Derp. Nevermind... I guess I can wait for those arms before I go out again...

[cohberg]

I guess I can wait for those arms before I go out again...

To be honest I was running a lot more power before I put the torque arms on (7kW+ burst) and I had zero problems. Granted that was without regen, I would tighten the axle bolts down as hard as I could and I regularly inspected it.

But yeah torque arms are just good insurance if nothing else.

[cohberg]

Update time:

Completed Mods:

• Super ghetto tench-like system *Using nothing but a drill bit (read no drill, just the bit), pencil knife, hotglue and a soldering iron #win
  
  
  
  
  
• New RockShox XC 28 front fork. A steal if you have amazon prime + warehouse deals.
  
• New rear shock. Still generic but its so much better than the crap piston that comes with the bike.

Those last two mods, in concert, have completely changed the bike. Super docile, more throttle controllable and way more stable at high speed.



Album Link

To Do:

• Replace rear gear cluster: utter GM garbage.
• Use Molex connectors to make a real run plug
• Temp sensor install + Hub motor rewind

[DragonPhyre]

I guess I can wait for those arms before I go out again...

To be honest I was running a lot more power before I put the torque arms on (7kW+ burst) and I had zero problems. Granted that was without regen, I would tighten the axle bolts down as hard as I could and I regularly inspected it.

But yeah torque arms are just good insurance if nothing else.

I'm not doing regen so you think I would be fine with the one that e-bike kit sends out? There's no real good angles to install it... I think I might just do it anyway, just incase it helps in some way. I want to get out there again!

Update time:
[*]Super ghetto tench-like system *Using nothing but a drill bit (read no drill, just the bit), pencil knife, hotglue and a soldering iron #win

How did you make this system? I was so not looking forward to connecting all those connectors to my battery charger.

[cohberg]

How did you make this system? I was so not looking forward to connecting all those connectors to my battery charger.

I have class in a few so this will be brief. If you want me to do into detail later lmk.

At pack level:

• I used a block of balsa as the base
  • on the "plug" side (battery side):
    
    • for male plugs: drilled 17/64" through-hole | 5/16" quarter inch deep (for base of plug)
    • for female: 5/16" through hole
  • for the "run" side
    
    • just soldered together bullets using solid 8ga copper into a U shape (male female with solid copper above forming the bottom of the upsidedown U), inserted them into the "plug" side, lubed up the "plug" side surface to prevent sticking to the face, hollowed out the other half of the balsa wood, then used a metric-f**kton of hotglue as a poor man shapeable and injectable polymer.

To charge (cell level):

• Using cell balance plugs: wired up the batteries to the dc-37 connector at cell level.
• Female end has everything disconnected grouped by cell number (groups of 6 ie: on dc-37 pins 1-3,20-22 is ground 4-6,23-25 is cell 1)
• On male side, solder blob for each group of 6 to charge

Recommend you go with the much nicer looking (and better documented version)

[cohberg]

I'm not doing regen so you think I would be fine with the one that e-bike kit sends out? There's no real good angles to install it... I think I might just do it anyway, just incase it helps in some way. I want to get out there again!

If you are really that worried, make your own, or just get a couple of wrenches and hose clamp them to your bike, lot of that has been done on the forum

[cohberg]

[DragonPhyre]

So what did you do with your rear gears? It looks like you removed the derailleur for the torque arm?

[cohberg]

torque arm does have a m10 tapped hole for the derailler, just never got around to re installing the chain + derailler

[DragonPhyre]

Ah, so I would have to go get a new longer bolt to keep the rear gears... I see said the blind man.

[cohberg]

actually no, the torque arm (at least for dr. bass) has the standard tapped hole, the genesis derailleur bolt should carry over and be long enough.