Hobbit wrote:Yeah, all the series-ing, paralleling is done on the motor/charger side of the plug. Quite brilliant really. I'm pretty sure thats why icecube deleted most of his photos. Guys were pumpIng him for detailed info, getting him to do all the schematics, then just pulling out and doing it themselves essentially stealing his designs..not fair, damn trolls.
Trackman417 wrote:Now that's true craftsmanship right there!I wish I had as much room as you. My garage has so little room, my brother got deterred from making a bike due to no more room after mine
By the way how amp hungry is the 4080? Do you have any efficiency results as to how much amps it eats and at what speed?
Hobbit wrote:as for "power hungry" at 55 amps and 70 volts the motor does about 66kph. I think Hyena has his up to low 70's though. There's been some private discussion that this motor my in fact possibly have a few different winds floating around. I've taken it up a 2 km long hill that rises about 150-200 metres from start to finish at full throttle and the side cover feels about 15 degrees warmer than ambient using a "palm meter"
Hobbit wrote: The colour isn't even close to matching the bike frame but I was a fraid that it might look a little feminine. I've gone with a matt aqua.
I'm just noting that the next NOOB who says they are running Crystalyte at 50 amps ( 'cos that's what it says on the box ) may actually be running 55 amps.
Also it seems pretty clear that this motor is NOT a 4080.
In the meantime, I'm off to Newcastle, WOOHOO.
Hyena wrote:Looks good mate, maybe add some frangipani stickers on there as well - should finish it off nicely
(co-incidence that when I googled "frangipani bike" that was the first pic that came up, in the right colour and everything ! haha)
Hyena wrote: What's your freewheel speed on a full charge ? From memory it's high 90s, which is the right wind (reference my test vid of the 4080 that ended up on my fighter HERE
Hobbit wrote: bizarre geometry AND a seat the size of a bodyboard.
100 kph so that's promising.
Yeah, I reckon I 've got about 12-15 kg's on Argh and I loaded his bike into Millenium Volkswagen, I reckon mine's about 20 kg's over that, too...........Poofy AND fat ...might have to go have a good hard look at myself
Hobbit wrote:Ok... so Igot fairly discouraged and stalled the progress of the battery box for a little while there. I was considering scraping it and starting over but It's pretty damn close to complete so I'll see it through. The JB weld was a total fail. not sure if i didn't get the blend exactly 50/50 or it was so damn cold that night that it didn't cure right but 2 days later unclamped it and just popped the join apart with a little tug. so I've pulled out the rivet gun and ran out of rivets! I'll grind away the "rivetty bit" sticking inside the box to avoid lipo puncture shudder then cover whats left with neoprene sheet for a smooth cushiony lipo cubby house. The colour isn't even close to matching the bike frame but I was a fraid that it might look a little feminine. I've gone with a matt aqua. might put a clear coat over it for longevity...who knows.
Hyena wrote:Yeah you should always run the fuse over, it's not like a controller rated for 50 amps is going to explode and tear a hole in the fabric of the universe if it sees 70 amps or so. My exact same controller is running 100 amps so it's not like you're protecting anything. They're basically just there to stop short circuits or major failures, which with a big lipo pack behind it happy to squirt out several hundred amps
megacycle wrote:How you getting the stock 72V/50's up to 100A.
Trackman417 wrote:Your new battery enclosure, is atleast 10X better than your first one!
............... Not that your first one wasn't good
Nice color, is that spray paint?
icecube57 wrote:... I moved up to an 80A maxi and didnt have anymore problems.....
Hyena wrote:You have much to learn young grasshopper
I had the controllers made beefy as shit coz that's how I roll
The current limit is set at 50a for a variety of reasons, as a default, because most lifepo4 BMSs wont deliver over that, because noobs will burn out motors if they sustain higher currrent draws etc.
Mine is reprogrammed in the software (which as per discussions in my build thread i'm not sure is possible with the later models) but you could achieve the same by modding the shut. For your 5404, solder a copper nail across it* and hang on
* I joke of course, but the 5404 can take as much power as this controller can put out
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