Avanti Commuter - Update

[Kabbage]

Well, I lurked here for long enough to find out how to build my first e-bike, so thought I should finally share what I built.

I wanted something to replace my Honda CR600F on my daily commute (15km round trip). I looked at all the 'commercial' e-bikes, but decided most of them were just ugly, and overpriced. I had a trusty old Avanti Ridge-Rider which I bought years ago, but I wanted something new, with them fancy hydraulic disk brakes, and good-quality accessories, and, after looking for a year or two old bike at a good price on bikeexchange.com.au, gave up and just got a new 2012 Avanti Aggressor 26.1 as the basis for my build. Motor is a X-lyte3540 from Justin at Grin/ebike.ca, with a standardish 25A controller - no speed records here...

I also wanted to attract minimal attention, and was always going to have panniers to lug all my crap to work and back, so putting a battery on the back was just easiest - though the handling can be a bit weird.

The battery took me ages (and lots more lurking here on e/s). I was tempted to go Lipo, but reliability is a key motivator for me (having replaced my motorbike, which 'just worked'), so I decided to go with 12Ah of Headway LiFePO4's from Headway Headquarters, and that's working very well so far. I guess the main downside was getting stuff shipped from CA/USA to Oz was pretty expensive...

Running Continental Sport Contact's (1.3 front, 1.6 rear)

Here it is:

the bike

More bike

There you go!

[Ykick]

Nice and clean! I would've put batteries in triangle but it looks like you're on the right track!

[Kabbage]

Thanks!

I should have said that I removed the front shifter and chainrings to minimise cables on the handlebars, and I figured I wouldn't need them. I stayed with the middle ring, which works quite well, but I have lost the chain a couple of times (need some sort of restraint, but haven't managed to find a nice one - any recommendations?). This does mean I can't keep up pedalling at full speed. Considering putting the chainrings and shifters back...

I've also just started breaking spokes on the stock Crystalyte rim, so just ordered some new spokes from JRH and going to get it laced into a Mavic EX325 downhill rim...

[adrian_sm]

Nice clean looking bike. But damn, that front chainring is tiny.

Yeah, I would put the front chainrings and derailuer all back on. They should keep you pedaling, and help stop the chain jumping off.

- Adrian

[Ykick]

I tried sans fore/aft derailers and even with a fixed length chain but too many chain hop-offs. I eventually put em back on but simply locked into tallest gear 48/13 using no cables. I lug the motor from stops and enjoy some pedaling around 20 MPH - especially when scooting up slight grades to help take sustained load off the system.

In practice, I find no interest in trying to pedal a dead eBike in any gear. I can do 7 MPH flat level if I must and of course downhills are fine in top gear. But no amount of gear reduction inspires me to pedal up even slight grades - might as well just walk it up in those situations. Knock on wood but I've never experienced an electrical failure that required a walk/ride of shame. Nope, only flat tires and for those you either fix it or walk it....

I recently topped 1,000 miles on JRH 13/14 single butted spokes in 9C motor Mammoth Fat rim. Hasn't seen a spoke wrench yet and I can't say that about the original Chinese spokes and cheap rim. I was always tweaking spokes until this combination.

Looks really good, I like em clean, mild weight, uncluttered and still a bicycle. Big mess of wires/cables becomes much more obvious to casual observers than a large hub motor in the wheel and minimal clutter.

Please give Mirrcycle mirrors a look and of course bicycle safety materials! Especially, if only recently beginning to share roadways with cars.

[StudEbiker]

I am always surprised at those that say they don't use the front chainrings. I always found it easiest to only use the front chainrings. Basically set the rear in a middle/high gear and only shift the front. If I get on a really serious grade would be the only time I would touch the rear.

[Kabbage]

Looks really good, I like em clean, mild weight, uncluttered and still a bicycle. Big mess of wires/cables becomes much more obvious to casual observers than a large hub motor in the wheel and minimal clutter.

Yeah, I agree. I am thinking of moving my CA into my rear bag too now; I mean, I don't really need to know my instantaneous speed/energy usage - a checkup at home at the end of the trip is fine. And I plan most 'longer' trips pretty meticulously to make sure I don't run into range issues. The CA is a dead-giveaway, so I think a power cable for my light, which is currently powered from the CA, and it's relegated to the bag...

Especially, if only recently beginning to share roadways with cars.

Does 15 years on a 600cc Honda count?

Actually, I've kept using my good Dainese gloves, they're sweeeeet.

[Kabbage]

I am always surprised at those that say they don't use the front chainrings. I always found it easiest to only use the front chainrings. Basically set the rear in a middle/high gear and only shift the front. If I get on a really serious grade would be the only time I would touch the rear.

Tips for young players... You are absolutely right, I should have kept the front chainrings and had a 3-speed, rather than keeping the rear and having a 9 speed. At the time it seemed like a good idea, and it works 65% of the time...

[Ykick]

Looks really good, I like em clean, mild weight, uncluttered and still a bicycle. Big mess of wires/cables becomes much more obvious to casual observers than a large hub motor in the wheel and minimal clutter.

Yeah, I agree. I am thinking of moving my CA into my rear bag too now; I mean, I don't really need to know my instantaneous speed/energy usage - a checkup at home at the end of the trip is fine. And I plan most 'longer' trips pretty meticulously to make sure I don't run into range issues. The CA is a dead-giveaway, so I think a power cable for my light, which is currently powered from the CA, and it's relegated to the bag...

Especially, if only recently beginning to share roadways with cars.

Does 15 years on a 600cc Honda count?

Actually, I've kept using my good Dainese gloves, they're sweeeeet.

I've gotta ton street m/c experience plus rider training and it helps. I cringe when people who've never shared roads with cagers come here, build a 30MPH bike and jump right into traffic riding. Good experience for you, but do you miss mirrors? I feel totally naked without 'em.

[Kabbage]

... build a 30MPH bike and jump right into traffic riding. Good experience for you, but do you miss mirrors? I feel totally naked without 'em.

I have speed limited my bike to high 30km/hrs (around 24mph), because I found over 40km/hr, while do-able, did not feel satisfactory for long-term safety, if you get what I mean. Great for a blat, but also drew too much attention, and given traffic lights and things, high 30's works out just fine in terms of commute time. Too many overtaking manouvers over 40kmh too....

I am fortunate that my route to work is 85% bike lane. Or should that be, I have selected a route that is 85% bike lane.

Regarding mirrors, I don't really miss them, no. I find that I have much better visibility with a bike helmet c.f. a full-face m/c helmet, and much easier to turn to look over my shoulder.

[biohazardman]

I had chain problems as well and since I only use the 52T chainring I removed the derailleur and used one of these chain keepers. http://www.paulcomp.com/ckclamp.html No longer loose the chain ever. A good mirror here you know you need one. http://www.amazon.com/Mirrycle-MTB-Moun ... B0009R96YK I know what you mean about the handling with all of that weight in the back and much of it high up as well. Still I did it for a few thousand miles before I built bike two correcting things I did not like on the way. A good looking build you have done.

[Timma2500]

but I have lost the chain a couple of times (need some sort of restraint, but haven't managed to find a nice one - any recommendations?).

Yep, i've had good success with Paul's Chainkeeper (not me!), just bought a 2nd one for my latest build. Light, minimal and not too hard on the wallet.
http://paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html


Nice tidy bike btw. Good idea to lace a dh rim on the back too, cheap insurance in the long run.


Paul

EDIT: Crap, i didn't see biohazardman's response above! Thats 2 votes for the chainkeeper i guess!

[Kabbage]

A good mirror here you know you need one.

Really? I don't feel the need so far...

A good looking build you have done.

Thank you Master Yoda Biohazardman

[Kabbage]

So, here's an update: had some good advice in this thread; so don't say I didn't listen.

Firstly, I was losing spokes left-right and centre, so I bit the bullet and got some custom sapin 13g spokes from jrh, and have had them put into a new Mavix EX325 rim. Neato.

While I was at it, the front 3 chainrings got put back on, and the rear shifter taken off, and had the dodgey 9-speed freewheel removed and replaced with a Shimano 6 speed (or it might have been 7), which was stripped back to a 13t singlespeed. Sweet. So I'm now at 44/13 on the big chainring now (rather than 34/11), which is much nicer - I can keep up at full speed now. And the having the gears on the LHS and only the throttle on the right is much nicer.

What else? Oh, I got a new 5.5mm dc extension cable from the boys at ebikes.ca, to supply my 'cyclelumenator' and have relegated the CA to the bag at the back. Perfect now that I don't have the need to see how far I've gone, or how fast I'm going at all times...

Oh, and my 1.6" Continental sport-contact on the rear crapped it - the sidewall went all squirly and you could see the bead, and it caused a horrible big lump that smacked on the ground every revolution. Very disappointing, only had it for 6 months... so it's been replaced with a Schwalbe Marathon (1.5")

Finally, you can't really see it here, but I took Kiwi's advice, and put a little 'ex-bike tube condom' over the motor connectors to keep them dry.

But, I haven't got a rear-view mirror yet, sorry....

Here are the revised photos...

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Thanks to all those who commented and helped me make it a better bike!

[kiqnkf]

The battery took me ages (and lots more lurking here on e/s). I was tempted to go Lipo, but reliability is a key motivator for me (having replaced my motorbike, which 'just worked'), so I decided to go with 12Ah of Headway LiFePO4's from Headway Headquarters, and that's working very well so far. I guess the main downside was getting stuff shipped from CA/USA to Oz was pretty expensive...

If you want stuff shipped from the Untrusted States of America, call John from 123engines, (03) 9466-4817, aka "jt imports".

Get ya stuff sent to California, and he ships it here for very good rates, (to Thomastown) but it does take a while.....

[Samd]

Good looking ride. Hope to see it on the Melbourne ride in a few weeks!

[Kabbage]

Thanks samd,

Was hoping to wangle my way to the ride, but broke my arm yesterday, so laid up at thee Austin till tomorrow, and not likely to be able to ride for 6 weeks malforturisment.

[Kabbage]

Was hoping to wangle my way to the ride, but broke my arm yesterday, so laid up at thee Austin till tomorrow, and not likely to be able to ride for 6 weeks malforturisment.

How's that for optimism 2 days into a broken humerous?!? 6 weeks!

Heck, I had the brace on for 5 months - and I'm still not clear to ride after 6 *months*. I've got sufficient movement back now to be 'able' to ride - but my arm is still in such a state that a fall would be quite likely to break it again - so *still* off the bike.... ahahghgg.

[biohazardman]

Ouch that's a long time to be off the bike. I was assaulted and nearly killed a couple years back. I was slow to mend, cuz of the HEP-C, severe head and neck injuries from the assault. But was and able to talk again in a few weeks and be back on my bike in a couple of months when I got my balance back. Just lately found myself able to drive a car decent again though. For the last couple of years I thought my driving days were gone permanently. Be patient, take the time to heal up good, the bike will be there for you when you are ready. Make sure you take care of the batts in the meantime.

[Kabbage]

Well, I've finally done a little swap-out for the C'lyte 3540 to a smaller BPM 36V500W 11T (see http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=46682).

So now it looks like this;

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I ended up having to get a 180mm rear disk and caliper spacer to allow the caliper to miss the hub. Interestingly, turns out that my bike has 'post mount' for the rear caliper - apparently this is unusual, and nobody seemed to be quite sure about how to go about getting a spacer. Anyway, it turns out that it is arranged in exactly the same geometry as the standard front post mount (makes sense when you think about it), so I could use a standard shimano front 160-->180mm caliper spacer. Sweet.

I also got a new shimano 180mm rear disk - it is a good quality 2-piece floating disk (because that's all they had at CRC) - there is a small issue with the black inner ring in that it doesn't sit quite flat against the hub - and also it seems to space out a little further than a 'standard' one-piece disk - beginning to think I should have found one of them, but oh well. I also had to space the axle out a bit further (two nuts inboard of the dropout!) to enable the bigger disk to miss the mounts. Nothing is ever bloody simple, is it. Still getting a bit of disk rubbing on the caliper, not sure how to get that sorted... dammit.

anyway - the bike is now noticeably lighter on the rear-end than the C'Lyte, and the performance seems pretty similar over all. A little bit louder - but nothing to write home about. overall I like it, and will probably use this as my 'standard' setup rather than the C'lyte, which I will keep as a swap-in-swap-out spare, for redundancy. Hated having to catch the train whenever I had any spoke or other issues. Now I can get that sort of thing 'sorted' off-bike, while maintaining commutability on the other.