Drew12345 Titus SuperMoto Bike

Well, time to upgrade my other bike that was a hub drive. I mainly used it for riding on the street. It was light but was horrible at handling because of flexy titanium rear triangle and because it was hard tail. So upgraded to a stronger downhill full suspension frame I got off ebay for cheap. My goal was stronger rear triangle for heavy hub, rear suspension, and able to ride offroad.

So the frame is 2007 Titus SuperMoto. To save money, I switched as much stuff over from old bike as could: Crystalyte HS3540, Lyen 18fet, CA v3, 100mm fork, shifters, rear derailleur, handlebar. The new stuff I had to get was seatpost, headset converter from 1 1/2 to 1 1/8, front derailleur, cables. In order gain better performance, I downsized to 24inch wheels. I sent roadrash my hub and he built a downhill wheelset.

My first ride, I had no electrical issues but plenty of non-electrical issues. First thing was that it wouldn't shift into biggest chainring. Next, I realized the rear shock was almost fully compressed when I sat on it even though I pumped it up. Made it very low to the ground. The second thing was my front brake. When I almost went off road because I wasn't paying attention, I slammed on brakes and front brake gave out. Found out it was because the bolt holding cable wasn't tight enough. I almost crashed because of it but somehow recovered. So decided to turn around and head back home and fix this stuff.

My second ride was much better. Everything mentioned previously I fixed except the rear shock. I pumped the rear shock even more, but still same issue. So shock needs to be rebuilt or buy new one. Since this was air shock and wanted coil, I ordered a new one off ebay for 1/2 price because it was old. Will take couple weeks to get here.

I was very pleased with ride. I was only riding 14s but happy with performance. I knew I would lose some top speed because of smaller wheel but seemed the same max speed of 31 mph/ 49 kph. It had better acceleration and most important, didn't overheat at all like it did my previous setup.

Next on list.
- Charge up my 18s setup and try out today or tomorrow.
- Paint controller black (light coat)
- Clean up wires some more (only 90% done)
- 2 months from now, order MXUS 3000 v2 hub and build a moto wheel from roadrash.
- upgrade front fork to longer travel and put geometry back correctly
- upgrade to larger rotors



[youtube]8WTRx8See1c[/youtube]

I forgot to mention in my previous post, that I had my power cable running up the seatpost to hide it. But I made the cable to short and when I get off my bike, it would disconnect. So now I ran it outside of seatpost and no problems disconnection.

I put my additive bag with 18s setup on my bike yesterday. To me, 18s is fast! With the smaller wheels, acceleration is much faster. I can get up to 40 mph/64 kmh fairly fast. And as mentioned previously, the smaller wheels makes it not overheat as fast. In fact, I didn't get above 60c once but fairly cold outside. I'm sure once summer gets around, it will overheat but it's running really well right now. Definitely big difference compared my 26 inch wheels. Waiting to get my new rear shock and than can see how it performs offroad.

I'm looking into 18s 25r setup that I can put in my backpack right now but not sure if I can afford it. I like the stealth look of having in my backpack. I really like my other battery setup in my backpack with em3ev 14s 25r. Also, with the cable running by seatpost instead of from handlebar like I did on previous bike, it's much more stealth now. You don't see this long cable running from my handlebar.

Cool new build.

I have the same problem with my air shock. I pump mine up to the hardest possible and it still sags. It's fine now with 12s2p only and bafang. It's the extra weight and yes I was going to try to fit my coil one on again upside down now that I know where my batteries clear in the triangle.

the bag does stand out but isn't it a relief on your back? The more weight forward and lower makes for nice anti wheelie - the ability punch more torque in acceleration and it absorbs the bumps like a gymbal for a camera.

Thanks John. Surprisingly, I got my shock in only 2 days from Canada. Supposed to be 2 weeks. Installed it last night and works great. I still need to adjust it but rides so much better.

it looks the part now.

envy

I wish it would stop bloody raining. I can't remember 3 months of rain for a long time this summer.

I want to get out do more single track and that way I will know sooner if I can stay with my bafang.... Sucks cos I'm only working 3 days a week but can only look at my bike...

Nice...... another Tits SuMo! Here's my steed taking a cocktail break during a recent Blizzard Rama-Ride sportin' new Conti 240 studded Winter shoes:




It's a NOS 2005 frame spare that I never used when I raced DH....... I got it directly from Chris Cocalis shortly before he was "ran-out" of Titus (then formed Pivot) and the racing program was dumped. The new "Tite-ass's" never knew he gave me 2 spares (SuMo and Switchblade), so I didn't tell 'em. It was set-up with a revalved DHX-4 w/520 spring, the Dan(Ha-Ha) Hanebrink front bumper I only used once for 1 lap at a 24 hour DH event. So, wanted to try e-hucking this summer but knew nothing about it (or ES forum), and this is my second e-cuntraption, pretty basic Clyte set-up....... Don't laugh, I'm getting better!!!

Here's the uhhh (ahem) build thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=65448

And Drew, is your new coil-shock a little stiff? Let me help you with your Horst-Link set-up...... I'm definitely a newbie with E-Shit electrically, but I got years of experience racing bicycles, moto-x, off-road buggies and snowsports. From your pics, it looks like you have the coil-shock mounted in the short travel upper position (prolly where the air-shock was mounted). You should change that to the long travel lower position. Then, to keep your stand-over height reasonable and front geometry slack, you would need to move the Horst-Link into the coffin-corner, which will be the hole closest to the top of the frame down-tube. This will allow full-travel of the suspension (your not pedaling anyway?) letting that Fox DHX work and take the hits instead of yo ass! I will get you the tech sheet on that, but meanwhile, look at my set-up if you don't understand what I'm sayin........

Cool. Just responded to your thread. Nice parts on yours. I had to pull stuff from my XC bike to get it up. I'm going to work on another video this weekend. It's really cold out right now so no riding this weekend.

John Bozi said:

it looks the part now.

envy

I wish it would stop bloody raining. I can't remember 3 months of rain for a long time this summer.

I want to get out do more single track and that way I will know sooner if I can stay with my bafang.... Sucks cos I'm only working 3 days a week but can only look at my bike...

Click to expand...

Hey John. Regarding my backpack, it never feels sore while it's on. But I did hurt my back running 3 months ago and can tell my back is more sore the following day. Prior to hurting my back, it's never hurt from backpack. I'm getting MRI in couple weeks to see if I got pinch nerve. Sometimes I do like having batteries on my bike. It depends. Definitely more stealth having in backpack and feel like I have more control when on my back. But sometimes I like not wearing anything especially when I get off the bike.

I rode the bike offroad but not real single track. This is a much better bike but could tell it's really hard doing technical single track because of heavy hub. So not happy about that. It's great for faster SingleTrack and perfect for fire roads like you have. Will see as I ride more offroad.

That sucks you have so much rain. Is it always like that during this time of year? I thought that only happens during winter. Always look forward to seeing your next setup.

Yup, found 'em....... here's all 4 set-up's for different shocks and purposes:

View attachment superoption_1mono.bmp
View attachment superoption_2mono.bmp
View attachment superoption_3mono3.bmp
View attachment superoption_4mono.bmp

Do you have the other Horst-Bars that came with the frame? You may want to change them.
Sorry, but these are the best copy I have....

SDog

Thanks SDog. I only got the frame with rear suspension you see off ebay. I didn't get anything else with it. When I bought new shock, I just got same length and swapped in same position. Curious, do you need different length shocks to switch between the various positions?

Can you show me closeup of your non disc side torque arm?

hey thats a cool frame with so many options for the suspension....

torque arms, are you running two? ive had no problems with ebikes.ca on the drive side and $25 one on the disc side. forgot the thread page on es but this is it


we had drought for 10 years and now its gona back to rain through summer not sure but it feels like when I was kid....

I'm only running the one in pic. Previously, I was running the ones from ebikes.ca but don't like hose clamps. A pain to take off if need to change tire or flat. I would get doctorbass ones but don't want to epoxy them to my frame.

This is a great frame made in Titus's heyday, well-developed, over-engineered (every tube is hydroformed double butted aluminum) and manufactured on precise jigs to high-standards- $$$$! Titus(Chris era) developed this frame so riders could change suspension set-up quickly for different events, XC to DH! But unlike it's namesake, Supermoto, that performs good on a variety of surfaces on one track, it was designed so with a few small changes it was competitive on any day at one event, a sorta single arrow quiver!

Yes.... There are 3 Horst-Bar rocker links available for this frame, Standard (XC-ST), Coffin (FR-DH) and TALAS(Travel Adjustable Linear Air Spring(?)fancy name for lock-out shock), you have Standard. Not sure if you got all 3 when you bought the frame or if the LBS's set them up for a specific shock and sold links/shocks as an accessory?

Looks like you have a Fox DHX-x.x (x.x= 2.0,3.0,4.0,5.0), so you want to use either:
1) "Coil" hole and your "Standard Rocker" if 7.875" length or
2) "FR" hole and "Coffin Rocker" (my bike) if 8.75" length and
I would recommend mounting shock to the lower "long travel" position on the rocker, since you're not concerned with losing energy pedaling and suspension performance is more important for e-bike. Upper position reduces the leverage (stiffer, less travel).
From there, select a spring from 350 - 650 lbs (ideally unloaded) depending on total unsprung weight (partial bike, battery, rider and gear) or preload the spring you have so either way it compresses 1/4 - 1/3 (hard rider - girly rider) of the total suspension travel.
From there use compression and rebound dials on shock for different terrain. Ideally, you want to dial in full range of travel without bottoming....

This is basic suspension set-up, most riders don't know to do this or; think they can ride better varying from this..... I find most of the time, they're wrong!

drew12345 said:

Can you show me closeup of your non disc side torque arm?

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I can get you a pic of disc-side torque plate next week. It's Presidents week, I'm working in VT, Killington is packed and don't have my bike here.

drew12345 said:

I'm only running the one in pic. Previously, I was running the ones from ebikes.ca but don't like hose clamps. A pain to take off if need to change tire or flat. I would get doctorbass ones but don't want to epoxy them to my frame.

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dood I have never undone the hose clamp since I put it on over a year ago. there is a bolt you undo in seconds....

I still have my tube clamps on while im not using the torque arm now. the bottom section is in a bag with the rest of the stuff I need to put back on for the high powered hub

My previous bike I did that and the torque arm hit my derailleur so still didn't work. However, haven't tried on this bike. Thanks for reminder. Will let you know.

skWarDog said:

...I would recommend mounting shock to the lower "long travel" position on the rocker, since you're not concerned with losing energy pedaling and suspension performance is more important for e-bike. Upper position reduces the leverage (stiffer, less travel).
From there, select a spring from 350 - 650 lbs (ideally unloaded) depending on total unsprung weight (partial bike, battery, rider and gear) or preload the spring you have so either way it compresses 1/4 - 1/3 (hard rider - girly rider) of the total suspension travel.
From there use compression and rebound dials on shock for different terrain. Ideally, you want to dial in full range of travel without bottoming....

Click to expand...

Wow, sDog. Thanks for great advice. You really know your stuff.

Because they don't sell the slime super thick tubes in 24", im going to put Mr. Tuffy Liners in here.

Also working in basement because too cold in garage.

While I had the wheels off, I wanted to true the rear wheel. For reason, it was not true when i got it from roadrash. Maybe something happened during shipping because box was in bad shape.



View attachment 1

Dishing gauge and all, damn you a pro!
Dude, I was lurking through your Trek thread and started getting nightmarish flashbacks of swampy, rooty, snake snotted terrain! Then I noticed your in MD, home of the Green Marble Enduro! I'll have to check the ECEA schedule, maybe after the KTM gets done bending me up, I'll have something left for the SuMo.......
Super nice ridin' video though with telemetry and all, Good Job! Nice builds too..... Ride On and Be Safe!
SDog

I wish I was a pro. I picked up that truing stuff before I got into electrical bikes thinking I would build my own wheelsets but not quite there yet. I can at least true a wheel. Prob next year start building my own.

Thanks for compliments. Sounds like you do a lot of races. You must be really fast.

It's been sooooooo cold so haven't been riding.

So decided good time catch up some todo items for this bike. So I took controller off and gave it couple of light coats of matte black. Also upgraded main wiring to 10g. Hope paint holds. Was trying to speed up drying process by putting light on it. Will see.

I might tackle wires on handlebar or paint rest of mid drive on other bike.

Been awhile since I posted a video. Here is one I rode the other day on abandoned golf course

[youtube]4VqeFsr69O8[/youtube]

looks serene and a bit eerie, abandoned places always have a bit of negativity to them but here you got cute ducks and my favourite rolling hills.

I used to get drunk at night and spin around the golf course here when I was super mad about riding my bike at first. But at night its so freaky you dont know if theres a big bunker over the hill.

Looks fun fast and stealthy....

camera in a box? quiet as ...

I rarely mount mine after breaking the handle bar mount....

makes me miss my clyte.... a week after busting mine I got my crappy 1kw motor on but its making sick grinding sounds every now again and the phase wiring and sheath gets hot so dam fast I dont think it likes being run at almost 4 times its design,

fun going 10km faster though

what was your top speed on that bitumen path?

cheers

Hey John. It was eerie but a lot of fun. It's was fun riding in the sand pits. Bummer paths were not smooth so it was a little bumpy. My top speed was 40 mph/64 kmh. That's fastest this bike goes on 72v.

I had my gopro in usual open case with open back. This bike has hub so was quiet.

Look forward to seeing you get your LR kit as I mentioned in your thread. Should climb well.

Getting mxus hub soon so should be a much better motor. Will see. Hope don't have to take as many breaks with it getting hot.

drew12345 said:

Getting mxus hub soon so should be a much better motor. Will see. Hope don't have to take as many breaks with it getting hot.

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you were overheating a bit then?

It's amazing was venting does and dropping the wheel size. On short rides on thinner motor unvented 26" I just pretty much could run full power for a few minutes and I still bloody killed the hall wires.........