Freeride Ebike QS205 22s10p sabvoton 72150 unlocked

Show off your E-bike creation here.
martinmertik
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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Oct 26, 2017 5:41 pm

kdog wrote:Use .2mm Ni minimum thickness.
Rearrange your pack to double the depth ( rows 10 deep)so you have 10 series connects rather than the 5 you have now.
8x.2mm Ni can take about 8-10 amps continuously and 15 for short periods. More than that heats it up quick smart. At 20A it gets hot, 30A very very hot , 50 dull red glow, >60a it's bright red hot.
I suspect you'll need to solder copper strip/wire over the top, also learn up on current sharing, and look at how to attach your power leads.
Being split is also going to raise the complexity. Do some more homework before you start.
I can't rearrange my packs because only this shape is going to fit my bicycle. I can connect those two pack with hard copper wire like it would be only 1 pack. Packs are going to be in their 6mm thick plastic boxes and separated for only a few centimetres. I don't have a spot welder so I will probably just go with thick quality cooper wire. I just don't understand how I should do connections between the cells. For power leads I plan on using 2 awg cable with some sort of connection that will hold up to 200A peak

martinmertik
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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Oct 27, 2017 11:53 am

I forgot to post a picture how pack looked on a bike before:

Image

I rearranged my battery pack so now it's easier to make connections between the cells.

Image

And this is how it looks now

Image

What do yo think guys? Which option do I choose?
Do connections look okay, I tried to apply high power current sharing method: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... k+mistakes ?

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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by kdog » Oct 28, 2017 12:47 am

that's a better layout for your cells, except that in your drawing you have only 4 series connects... 200a/4= 50amps per series connect. then there is the issue of the cells nearer the connectors doing an unfair share of the load and the ones further away not pulling their weight.
For 200A you NEED to have a connection from every cell to the corresponding cell in the next group. each cell and connect will then see 20amps max. which is much healthier and they will all do their fair share (see diag)
you will need to make sure that similar current sharing and correct gauge of wire is used to connect the main power leads. I would suggest a bridal of say 10x 10-12g wires (one on each cell) all married up to join the main power lead (but there are other ways)
a temp probe embedded in the pack would be good to help monitor goings on.
+ --- o
+ --- o
+ --- o
+ --- o
+ --- o
etc
(P connections not shown)

martinmertik
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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Oct 28, 2017 9:32 am

kdog wrote:that's a better layout for your cells, except that in your drawing you have only 4 series connects... 200a/4= 50amps per series connect. then there is the issue of the cells nearer the connectors doing an unfair share of the load and the ones further away not pulling their weight.
For 200A you NEED to have a connection from every cell to the corresponding cell in the next group. each cell and connect will then see 20amps max. which is much healthier and they will all do their fair share (see diag)
you will need to make sure that similar current sharing and correct gauge of wire is used to connect the main power leads. I would suggest a bridal of say 10x 10-12g wires (one on each cell) all married up to join the main power lead (but there are other ways)
a temp probe embedded in the pack would be good to help monitor goings on.
+ --- o
+ --- o
+ --- o
+ --- o
+ --- o
etc
(P connections not shown)
In link that I attached in my previous reply it shows how batteries should be connected for high current sharing and so I applied his method.
You said that I need to make series connections between all 10 cells right? I'm not sure what's right haha.

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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by Joachim » Oct 29, 2017 5:17 am

Image
Image Image
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martinmertik
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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Nov 04, 2017 5:42 pm

I got some updates for you guys.

Got my BMS, it's a beast. Compared to battery pack, size wise.
Image

I also reconfigured both of the pack in a new shape and used isolation paper on the cells.
Image

On monday I will get the rest of the parts and then I will start the aasembly.
Last edited by martinmertik on Nov 08, 2017 2:36 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by Voltron » Nov 04, 2017 5:54 pm

"In link that I attached in my previous reply it shows how batteries should be connected for high current sharing and so I applied his method.
You said that I need to make series connections between all 10 cells right? I'm not sure what's right haha."

For maximum current flow and even sharing there's no beating full coverage tabs that bridge the groups if you're planning on pulling big amps for long periods...

Battery porn from Madin88..
bigtab.jpg
bigtab.jpg (120.28 KiB) Viewed 584 times

martinmertik
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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Nov 04, 2017 7:13 pm

Voltron wrote:"In link that I attached in my previous reply it shows how batteries should be connected for high current sharing and so I applied his method.
You said that I need to make series connections between all 10 cells right? I'm not sure what's right haha."

For maximum current flow and even sharing there's no beating full coverage tabs that bridge the groups if you're planning on pulling big amps for long periods...

Battery porn from Madin88..
bigtab.jpg
That makes total sense to me. I just wasn't sure what what right. I will makes connections to all cells like you mentioned :)

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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by Voltron » Nov 04, 2017 7:28 pm

It's not that one way is right or wrong... But for what you have planned, more metal more better... :D

martinmertik
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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Nov 04, 2017 7:48 pm

Voltron wrote:It's not that one way is right or wrong... But for what you have planned, more metal more better... :D
Then great. I will use thick copper wire and I will solder it together. I will post some pictures on Monday.

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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Nov 10, 2017 3:49 am

I have some pictures comming up later today :D
At the moment I'm ordering the last components that are required for the build.
Could anyone please link me the circuit breaker that matches my build? So I can order everything today.
thanks

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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by Rube » Nov 10, 2017 8:34 am

Blue sea resell circuit breakers that suit. Can't remember who the manufacturer is. https://www.ebay.com.au/i/282526055255? ... dispctrl=1

martinmertik
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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Nov 12, 2017 4:13 am

Hi guys,
so about circuit breakers, they are 12v-24V 300A breaker. However I saw them on a lot of ebikes. Do they work with higher voltage ebikes too? like mine?
I got all the parts except they forgot to send me nuts for spokes so I'm waiting for them to come from china. It takes a week to arrive.
I ordered 22s charger, XLR panel and XLR connector also I ordere DP-CA plug so I can connect it to controller.
I finished my battery packs. Only thing that's missing is to tidy bms terminals with heat resistant tape. Here are some pics:

Image

Image

It took me a whole day haha. Soldering series copper connections with wire that thick was pain in the ass. But now I'm finished and happy with the results :)

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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Nov 12, 2017 4:50 am

Will this switch work for me if I connect it to ignition terminal on controller?
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Car-Battery-Cut- ... Swh81ZnrIy

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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by SlowCo » Nov 12, 2017 5:30 am

That's a lot of heat you have pushed into each can :shock:
Especially because you soldered the parallel connections on top of the cans also in stead of in between. I hope you didn't damage the cells too much.

martinmertik
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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Nov 12, 2017 7:05 am

SlowCo wrote:That's a lot of heat you have pushed into each can :shock:
Especially because you soldered the parallel connections on top of the cans also in stead of in between. I hope you didn't damage the cells too much.
I think that I didn't damage single cell. Cells got barely warm to the touch. During soldering I applied soldering iron just for a few seconds.
All cells stayed at the same voltage... 3,55V

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Re: 20KW LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike

Post by MadRhino » Nov 16, 2017 1:32 am

martinmertik wrote:I plan on using regen.. Looks like I'm in big trouble.
I will solve this out somehow haha
Your dropouts can (and better) be extended a few inches. For that, they need to include caliper nount on the left side, derailer or tensioner mount on the right side

You can bolt dropout plates on your swingarm, but welding is best if you know a pro to do it. The motor fit in the plates can be tru-axle or pinch. Pinch is faster service and versatile, tru-axle is tuned once for good and smaller. 1/4 steel or Ti plate is perfect for tru-axle, thicker for bolt-on but can be made hard Alu.

Here is an example, the Alu mounting plates have been welded-aligned-treated-faced in lieu and place of the original dropouts, with 1 1/2 ‘’ extended, 1’’ raised tru-axle dropout plates mounted on. The dropout plates could be pinch instead of tru-axle, they also could be longer, or higher with 5 mounting holes to make 3 geometry settings... or you can have proprietary plates for each motor that you want a quick swap and different geometry for your ride. Different metals too...

F62980BA-E113-4E24-9534-96BEF3805527.jpeg
F62980BA-E113-4E24-9534-96BEF3805527.jpeg (80.81 KiB) Viewed 425 times
C13FDCA8-4180-4641-A95D-20C3A9818270.jpeg
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martinmertik
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Re: 20KW LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike

Post by martinmertik » Nov 19, 2017 3:13 am

MadRhino wrote:
Nov 16, 2017 1:32 am
martinmertik wrote:I plan on using regen.. Looks like I'm in big trouble.
I will solve this out somehow haha
Your dropouts can (and better) be extended a few inches. For that, they need to include caliper nount on the left side, derailer or tensioner mount on the right side

You can bolt dropout plates on your swingarm, but welding is best if you know a pro to do it. The motor fit in the plates can be tru-axle or pinch. Pinch is faster service and versatile, tru-axle is tuned once for good and smaller. 1/4 steel or Ti plate is perfect for tru-axle, thicker for bolt-on but can be made hard Alu.

Here is an example, the Alu mounting plates have been welded-aligned-treated-faced in lieu and place of the original dropouts, with 1 1/2 ‘’ extended, 1’’ raised tru-axle dropout plates mounted on. The dropout plates could be pinch instead of tru-axle, they also could be longer, or higher with 5 mounting holes to make 3 geometry settings... or you can have proprietary plates for each motor that you want a quick swap and different geometry for your ride. Different metals too...


F62980BA-E113-4E24-9534-96BEF3805527.jpeg

C13FDCA8-4180-4641-A95D-20C3A9818270.jpeg
Your solution looks great I will do something similar to your bike. This week I will go to a workshop and we will modify the dropouts :)

martinmertik
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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Nov 19, 2017 3:24 am

Hi guys.. my eebike is alive 😁😁😁😆.
I'm still waiting on nuts for spokes and CA-DP connector for controller mod, tripwire, 22s 10a charger and few more things. In the video I linked below my dropouts got already bent ☺. Controller was set to 60A.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_ ... 1815222475
I will buy three electrical waterproof boxes. Two will be for each battery pack and one for bms and (controller)? I don't know where to mount it. I do not want to have it outside the box because of water, but I'm also affraid that it will overheat in the box.

martinmertik
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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Nov 29, 2017 6:02 pm

Hi,
I have an update for you, and a question too.
So first of all, I got all the parts now. Controller, batteries, BMS and circuit breaker are stored in electrical waterproof box. I will add two 80mm fans with their own switch too and some cap so when it rains the box stays waterproof.
I haven't connected dc-dc converter yet. I will also have a smartphone charger on my bike.
At the moment I'm waiting on my dropouts adapter to be finished. So this is the problem:
Few days ago I did a test with cycle analyst. Firstly I modified my controller for CA-DP connector and wired everything up. When I powered on my ebike and when cycle analyst turned on it started to add a throttle itself. Motor started spinning and stopped after a few seconds and it did that in a loop until I turned of my ebike. I wired everything right. The only thing that it isn't as it should be is that I used 2.2k ohm instead of 2k ohm resistor on a grey throttle signal terminal. Do you think that this is the problem? I was planing on doing some further testing but I'm affraid that the dropouts won't hold the motor in it's place.
When I disconnect the Cycle analyst and have throttle wired directly to the controller everything works normal.

Today I turned on my ebike just to check cycle analyst's menu and functions. I connected everything except the motor because I don't want it to spin again by itself. And this is what CA does.
https://youtu.be/1eZ4ntEEL6Q
I don't need to touch any buttons and CA goes through menu and goes into settings by itself. Is this because I didn't connect the motor or do you think I have a faulty unit?

Thanks

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Re: LUDICROUS Freeride Ebike-QS205 22s10p subvoton 72150

Post by martinmertik » Dec 05, 2017 4:58 am

My cycle analyst is version 3 but it had 2.4 software, so I updated it to v3 so I solved this problem. There are some pictures of my box that is going to be attached to my bike.
Image
Image
Image

Only thing that needs to be finished is my adapter for dropouts and that's it :)

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