auraslip wrote: But just to be clear - you roughed up the drop out with a file
auraslip wrote: Did you also rough up the torque arm as well?
auraslip wrote: Mind were covered with some sort of corrosion or something.
auraslip wrote: Did you use a solvent?
auraslip wrote: Did you apply pressure as it was curing?
psycholist wrote:keysersoze310, You had a problem with a very loose fitting axle, resulting in a lot of rocking play in the torque arm and loosening of the axle nuts.
Did you ever resolve this issue? If you continued to ride in this state, something is bound to fail.
The integrity of the doctorbass torque arms require that the axle nuts be tight as well as a snug fit in the (torque arm) dropouts.
What might have occured here, is that you continued to ride with this condition and the loose axle nuts, accompanied by the constant rocking, caused the system to fail at it's weakest link...The epoxy bond.
I'm not implying that you did this. Just a possible scenario
auraslip wrote:.. I guess it got warm and weakened and the torque from the drill popped it off. You can debate this all you want. I don't think I got it too hot.
neptronix wrote:Because the docbass torque arms i bought are so loose, they are basically $35 worth of scrap metal to me. I don't see how they'd work as clampers, especially when you're gluing something on, then stressing out the bond that glue ( ok, epoxy ) has made.
John in CR wrote:psycholist wrote: Gotta be the poor quality epoxy.
OR ___________ . I'll leave it up to people to fill in the obvious answer on their own.
neptronix wrote:I don't believe in this glue stuff.. just does not calculate. bolt or weld it on..
izeman wrote:i think epoxy is a really great thing. if used properly and if you got the right stuff.
there must be a reason why today many parts in cars are glued and not bolted or welded. glueing is superior to welding/bolting to some degrees and to some it's vice versa. it*s as simple as this.
drilling a hole with a not 100% good drill can make the plate very hot. and heat is the only way to remove epoxy. and once it got hot it's like dried jewing gum. can you pry the remaining epoxy off with a screw driver easily? if it falls of in small crumbles than you know it got too hot.
However, they are EXTREMELY sensitive to the materials being bonded, and prep involved. You can't glob some smoo on sanded paint and think its going to hold back 20HP. I was a bit worried when I initially noticed rather inexperienced people trying out DP420 for really critical stuff, looks like there was good reason.
The drill bit was probably dead by the time you got to the bike piece. The expensive drill bits require low rpm and frequent cooling, even dipping in water a number of times for each hole extends the life tremendously. Get it hot with too much rpm and you can kill it in seconds. Typically a squeaking sound while drilling tells you the bad news.
Users browsing this forum: Yahoo [Bot] and 3 guests