New Bafang Crank-Drives

Guys I have a 965 Display (not the 965A) and the manual states that I can change the battry type in the menu. "UbE means user define voltage" But how do I define it? Is it only through programming it doesn't seem possible to change it via display.

8.11Battery parameter : Get into parameter setting state, the location of speed icon display
symbol bU0, press the UP/DOWN button can change this parameters as follows,
24/36/UbE. This is represent the Battery rated voltage, UbE means user define voltage.
Display:
file.php
 
Is it OK to just put this watt meter in series between battery and controller?

I had done of those cheap eBay blue meters and thats what i did. Made sure i used good quality soldered bullet connectors and it worked fine.

Meter died after a couple of weeks though. :(
 
Allex said:
Guys I have a 965 Display (not the 965A) and the manual states that I can change the battry type in the menu. "UbE means user define voltage" But how do I define it? Is it only through programming it doesn't seem possible to change it via display.

8.11Battery parameter : Get into parameter setting state, the location of speed icon display
symbol bU0, press the UP/DOWN button can change this parameters as follows,
24/36/UbE. This is represent the Battery rated voltage, UbE means user define voltage.
Have you tried connecting the software? I got the cable from empowered, but haven't tried yet.

I just got my C965 display and motor as well, and just installed it on my road bike and took it for a spin. Insane power, but very unrefined. I will be reading through the software thread and trying all suggested settings.

What is the latest version of the 8Fun software? I saw (2) links on the programming thread, and downloaded the software from those links, but is a new version needed to interface to different settings/code/menus for the C965?

Thanks.
Garrick
 
Allex said:
Guys I have a 965 Display (not the 965A) and the manual states that I can change the battry type in the menu. "UbE means user define voltage" But how do I define it? Is it only through programming it doesn't seem possible to change it via display.

8.11Battery parameter : Get into parameter setting state, the location of speed icon display
symbol bU0, press the UP/DOWN button can change this parameters as follows,
24/36/UbE. This is represent the Battery rated voltage, UbE means user define voltage.
Display:
file.php
5 button == c965A I believe?
Pretty sure battery voltage can be modified in password protected settings.
 
Hello all,

Believe me or not and forgive me if this is a repost of information but I frequently speak with Vendors (Both friends and clients) so in addition I speak with many Chinese attempting to procure the best revisions of everything and to at minimum ensure we don't get a version with a known issue (IE: 750w version 1.0 had 6 FET issues and perhaps some minor issues we knew nothing about.

Then came patch 1.01:
This patch was done by dealers using Bafang Protocol 1.0 software (ControllerST written in delphi from way back, who uses Delphi even Visual Delphi anymore?) which many if not most of us have already, I've had since before Legrand Cruise but was NDA hence my project to reverse engineer the serial protocol and create the codebase opensource for all to benefit but before I could get 30% done the software was leaked but not by me so no more need for open source.

Please not the version 1.0 protocol was for this x1 BBS-01 - 6FET version

Next Came version 2.0, the 9FET unit

Surprise, new bafang protocol was 2.0 for the changes they made to take advantage of the 9FET setup - mind you overheating even at legitimate 25a and 48v was still an issue but it seems more a gearing and rider issue at this point *(Correctable with shift point indicator).

Then I believe it was Paul aka Cell_Man who figured out how to replace the ring gears, why? because the existing ones using now v2 software had a gearing issue so he offered a much needed aftermarket a solution, combined with claims under warranty (which only US Vendors with Reputable Chinese vendors were able to obtain).

So then emerges the v3 unit which was fantastic, no real controller issues (used within spec and geared properly, the latter they have yet to offer customer materials which focus on this but in truth these aren't supposed to be end user kits but installed by trained professionals or at least very experienced non professionals but whom know what they are doing and then some.

Guess what the issue with v3 became? Bearings! Yep somehow they figured out their bearings were failing (not an issue with v1,2,3) but introduced when gearing was fixed.

Software version for those internal controllers? Simple, can you guess - yep 3.0

Finally I became aware from a small vendor overseas (not alibaba or BMS battery related in any way) who at first handnt believed me, or wanted to) so he had just received an order of 50 units, 35 of which were states bound the rest all over. He broke the first one out (we were skyping) and loaded up the new Controller ST and guess what - v4 drives.

Since then ( a few weeks ago ) he's been pushing it as hard as the stock controller with some removed throttle delay / ramp setting for nearly 200 miles with no temperature or other issues at 15S or 55.5v.

No grinding, play, overheating or well.... no issues at all.

Moral of the story, for the least amount of headaches... ensure your vendor has v4 drives, which we currently do not as they are about to set sail but if you can't find one in the next 3-6 weeks, contact me via PM I will be glad to reserve one for you.

My costs are higher (because I didn't jump at the first POS vendor crap offered to me).

I should have batteries more than capable of powering these full tilt BBS-02 750 v4 units available shortly too, just arguing with the US Manfuacturer over Cell Type to be used to ensure weight, long life and rapid charge ability.

Hope that helps clear some of these cheaper kits up for people, in the end they may be fine for you but why risk it.

-Mike
 
opperpanter said:
How to determine which drive you have? (mine are from. Dec 14). Only by loading programming software via programming cable?

No you just need to have the Controller ST and copy corresponding to your setup however don't write if your not sure... v4 is for v4 drive and don't hate the US vendors most aren't hip to this either, not their faults... just a backlog of the v2 and v3 units lower volume vendors have been pushing to clear the way for better versions, why did you think they were coming in off the boat so darn cheap right now?

Go v1 with external if v4 isn't available to you, much happier in the end.

Again I'm awaiting an order of v4 units, so PM me if you would care to reserve one.... SHAMELESS PLUG but I went to alot of trouble to get these imported and locate the v4 versions of the BBS-02 750.

We have some other surprises to go with our kits, but I'll save that for the debut.

-Mike
 
opperpanter, no c965A is the thre button type, less built in options what is seems like
https://www.greenbikekit.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/9/c965a-manual-8fun-bbs01-bbs02-kit.jpg
 
Thanks for the information Mike.

Is there a link for anyone to download the different versions of software?

I have a C965 with a four directional button and center power button. I actually prefer the large plus and minus buttons on the top bottom and would like to have that by my left thumb for quick access to PAS level.

Do you recommend any rework to a v3 drive now to improve the bearings? Preventative maintenance?

Thanks,
Garrick
 
mwkeefer said:
opperpanter said:
How to determine which drive you have? (mine are from. Dec 14). Only by loading programming software via programming cable?

No you just need to have the Controller ST and copy corresponding to your setup however don't write if your not sure... v4 is for v4 drive and don't hate the US vendors most aren't hip to this either, not their faults... just a backlog of the v2 and v3 units lower volume vendors have been pushing to clear the way for better versions, why did you think they were coming in off the boat so darn cheap right now?

Go v1 with external if v4 isn't available to you, much happier in the end.

Again I'm awaiting an order of v4 units, so PM me if you would care to reserve one.... SHAMELESS PLUG but I went to alot of trouble to get these imported and locate the v4 versions of the BBS-02 750.

We have some other surprises to go with our kits, but I'll save that for the debut.

-Mike
More explicit: How do I know whether my unit is v1, v2 or v3?
 
mwkeefer said:
opperpanter said:
How to determine which drive you have? (mine are from. Dec 14). Only by loading programming software via programming cable?

No you just need to have the Controller ST and copy corresponding to your setup however don't write if your not sure... v4 is for v4 drive and don't hate the US vendors most aren't hip to this either, not their faults... just a backlog of the v2 and v3 units lower volume vendors have been pushing to clear the way for better versions, why did you think they were coming in off the boat so darn cheap right now?

Go v1 with external if v4 isn't available to you, much happier in the end.

Again I'm awaiting an order of v4 units, so PM me if you would care to reserve one.... SHAMELESS PLUG but I went to alot of trouble to get these imported and locate the v4 versions of the BBS-02 750.

We have some other surprises to go with our kits, but I'll save that for the debut.

-Mike

Mike what are the serial numbers and date codes to know someone has a v4?
 
I remember some people were interested in pannier mounting batteries so I thought I'd upload a couple of photos of my build.

There is a Turnigy Multistar 16ah brick in each of the panniers driving a BBS02 750w. The bikes handling characteristics are not
compromised as the weight is kept very low. Pannier mounting also makes for quick removal when it comes time to recharge.

RIMG0118.JPG

As you can see the bike is quite stealthy.



Some car audio fuse bling.

So far travelled around 260klms with no problems.
 
Bumping for information. It sure would be helpful to get a clear answer on version determination. At least a v4 cut off date?
'



tomjasz said:
mwkeefer said:
opperpanter said:
How to determine which drive you have? (mine are from. Dec 14). Only by loading programming software via programming cable?

No you just need to have the Controller ST and copy corresponding to your setup however don't write if your not sure... v4 is for v4 drive and don't hate the US vendors most aren't hip to this either, not their faults... just a backlog of the v2 and v3 units lower volume vendors have been pushing to clear the way for better versions, why did you think they were coming in off the boat so darn cheap right now?

Go v1 with external if v4 isn't available to you, much happier in the end.

Again I'm awaiting an order of v4 units, so PM me if you would care to reserve one.... SHAMELESS PLUG but I went to alot of trouble to get these imported and locate the v4 versions of the BBS-02 750.

We have some other surprises to go with our kits, but I'll save that for the debut.

-Mike

Mike what are the serial numbers and date codes to know someone has a v4?
 
Can't remember who used the term first on ES Face book but it made me laugh and well this "disrespectful name" for the popularity of a lower powered motor stuck.

Anyway, I am enjoying my bafang at 30tx48t. Also thanks to Kepler removed the display and speed sensor. I'm happy with just a cell alarm on a set of my batteries. The rest is looking at the road boys.

[youtube]XK6tTT-qyDc[/youtube]
 
opperpanter said:
Hi all,

I have a 750W BBS02, with a 14S NCA pack (all by em3ev).
How will the display now it's 14S (58.8V) and not 13S (54.6V)?

Thanks,

Opper

Kepler said:
The display will be fine except the battery level will always show full or close to full. Standard cutout for the drive is 41v. It can be programmed up to 43v however 44v cut is ideal for 14s. If Paul programmed it to the max 43v, a battery level of half on the display is about as low as you want to go.

I run 14s also which is one of the reasons I did the Cycle Analyst conversion.
What would be the difference between setting the battery voltage to "Ube" (user defined) instead of setting it to "48v"?
 
ESrs, this is my way to thank you all for your comments and forum knowledge!
My completed BBS-02 13sLiPo; only pedal activated with cutoff key.
Base is a Rockrider FR-6, 140mm F&R matched with 200mm F&R hydraulic brakes.
In a single world; FUN
It is lovely to ride!
Hope you like it!
IMG_20150329_174718_1.jpg

IMG_20150329_175150_1.jpg

IMG_20150329_175233_1.jpg


Thanks!
 
I got to ride some Haibikes today back to back with my Bafang - A 27.5 xduro FS and a 29er hardtail xduro. Both bikes were nicely designed, user friendly and rode very well. I was surprised by how little difference there was in the ride feel of the motor when compared to my 750w Bafang. I was expecting much more from the torque sensor and some of the other selling points for the bike. Shifting was nicer. Price was much higher. Crazy thing is I will likely plunk down some cash for it - because of the fact everything is integrated so well. This is a great setup for the casual e mtbiker. My wife is going to love it. :lol: I'll keep riding the bafang.
 
Still no one forthcoming with the mysterious v4 serial numbers or manufacture date? What happened to the "debut"?
 
So I tried to find some detailed info on all the different chain rings / adapters that are available, but it's difficult to find information about chain lines.

The italian 42T chain ring, how much better (compared to stock 44T) will the chainline be (how many mm)?

The lekkie 42T blue chain ring, how much better (compared to stock 44T) will the chainline be (how many mm)?

How much worse (compared to stock 44T) will the chainline be when using a BCD104 spider adapter?
 
Does anyone know of a switch I can buy that connects to Anderson power poles? Right now I am connecting them manually every time I want to ride and I feel like over time I am going to wear them out. What I want is something that connects on both sides, one side to the motor, the other to the battery and has a switch or something to make the connection live. Does anything like that exist??
 
opperpanter said:
So I tried to find some detailed info on all the different chain rings / adapters that are available, but it's difficult to find information about chain lines.

The italian 42T chain ring, how much better (compared to stock 44T) will the chainline be (how many mm)?

The lekkie 42T blue chain ring, how much better (compared to stock 44T) will the chainline be (how many mm)?

How much worse (compared to stock 44T) will the chainline be when using a BCD104 spider adapter?
Using adapter is waste of time and money, you will be probably able to use only lower few cassette sprockets.
With Lekkie or Alcedo chainring, you will have around 2mm better chainline.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=68455#p1036216
I would say, best option is 42t custom chainring and 12-36 Shimano HG 400 cassette. 9-speed-cassette and chain are stronger than 10-speed.
 
Using the adapt is not a waste of money if you have steep hills and a taste for going custom.

I am pretty sure I can climb steeper slopes than any bafang crank driver can with my 30t race face using an adapter and 48t rear sprocket @ 60-54v ...

[youtube]sIPavVv1VEI[/youtube]
 
I just made a gear change switch for my cyclocross commuter. It has drop bars, so I glued a reed switch to the underside of the hoods and a magnet to the lever. I soldered a bunch of resistors, probably 130 kOhm worth in series with the reed switch on the throttle channel, and now the motor runs super slow whenever I shift, and there's no unnecessary pause, effectively shifting under muscle power only. I had to set the starting torque in throttle mode to 1% for it to be able to run that slowly. I was worried that the bike would run off if I touched the shifters while standing still, but it's easily managable.
 
tahustvedt said:
I just made a gear change switch for my cyclocross commuter. It has drop bars, so I glued a reed switch to the underside of the hoods and a magnet to the lever. I soldered a bunch of resistors, probably 130 kOhm worth in series with the reed switch on the throttle channel, and now the motor runs super slow whenever I shift, and there's no unnecessary pause, effectively shifting under muscle power only. I had to set the starting torque in throttle mode to 1% for it to be able to run that slowly. I was worried that the bike would run off if I touched the shifters while standing still, but it's easily managable.
Do put up a picture of you can - would be interesting to see. Have you got it interrupting on down and upshift or just downshift?

Michael
 
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