V moto E max 120 s

Hi
and welcome to the forum im fairly new myself, i have the 120 s which has the reverse button, its on the left side of the handle bars but its just below the left brake lever its a blue button and its very handy ti have with the heavy silicon batteries.
On the right side of the handle bars is the boost button , when you turn the bike on its in normal mode and if i hold it for a couple of seconds it switches to Max mode and if you hold it again it switches to Ego mode , not sure if mind has boost i just keep it in Max mode for around 20 miles distance before Batteries are flat. i keep it in max most of the time and only switch to normal when im in a 30 mph spped limit, hope that helps you.

Thanks kevin
 
Cheers Kevin for your reply. The blue button, that's exactly what I've been expecting - well, there isn't one on my 110s (so I presume no reverse either...). Weird, there must be a different versions of them available. I got the manual book with my bike, there is no mention about the reverse at all and regarding the boost switch it says exactly "a single press will increase power but not maximum speed, active for 60 seconds, then it must be pressed again (if required), is only effective when the scooter is driving at a minimum of 5km/h, frequent use decreases the range" How do you know what mode is your 120s currently running? Do you have any indication for the normal/max/eco on the display?
 
Kevin1963 said:
Jonescg

You mention below that as long as it isnt over 58.4 v fully charged I should be ok, so when I up grade to lithium can I have 18 cell pack at 3.25 volts per cell x by 18 cells = 18 x 3.25 =58.5v.

Thanks kevin

Yes, but you would be carrying around a lot of dead weight for not much gain. You could be undercharging your pack and you wouldn't know.

About the only over-voltage you can safely get to is 17 LiFePO4 cells in series - 3.60 V x 17 = 61.2 V. This is at the absolute limit of the bike's capabilities, as everything onboard has 63 V caps. Any higher they pop.
 
yes on the speedo displays in the lcd display it displays EGO then Normal then Max as I toggle between the three modes but as I said its in normal when you switch bike on but normal is only 30 mph which is OK as we have lots of 30 mph limits on our roads so it controls my speed and stops me getting speeding tickets but soon as I hit any incline I switch to Max mode so I can maintain 30 mph and when im out of the 30 mph area I can go 43 mph. check for the blue button again because i didnt find it first time, if you put your hand on the left handle bar and reach over the handle bar with your first finger next to your thumb this finger can just reach it if its there, what type of battery is fitted to your bike ? as mine is still the silicon heavy batteries but if yours is a newer model with lithium it will be 60 / 70 kg lighter and would not need reverse.

Cheers kevin
 
I've checked again and the reverse button definitely, 100% isn't there and yes, 110s is fitted with lead - acid batteries, so it is heavy indeed :) Must be the version without the reverse. Thanks for your help
 
I was just thinking today regarding the reverse button and I've had a look at mine and if you really wanted reverse it would mean replacing the complete left handle assembly which can't be too expensive so it maybe worth asking the dealer you bought the bike from as it may have the extra connection cable there already assuming that the sevcon controller has this function, myself I will be replacing the silicon batteries with Lithium when the silcon batteries die and because the Lithium batteries weight 65 kg less the bike will be easier to handle as it currently wrights 200 kg and will drop to 135 kg roughly.
Cheers kevin
 
whereswally606

How are your batteries doing are they charging OK yet and ready for testing ?. Im currently using my silcon batteries on a 63 plate 120 S with 1500 km on it and do a 13 mile round trip each day and have covered 208 miles without any problems, my current range on max setting is 20 miles but after my 13 mile work trip my batteries only take 1.1/2 to 1.3/4 hours to charge so im going to try a longer distance tonight now ive charged the batteries a few times to see if this has increased at all , is it correct to say that these batteries will charge more times if as I am only running them down slightly as opposed to fully draining them?.
let me know if you are thinking of lithium conversion as if we could buy together maybe we would get a better deal as we dont live too far away from each other , im in Sheffield.

Cheers kevin
 
Yeah, charging not great, I have them paralleled 1s4p but they sit at about 8.5v at the moment. I like the idea of doubling up on cells for a group buy but I've not got the cash for at least 2 months. Saw a load of 36v 4ah toolkit batteries in my local b&q at £34 each down from £130. Was very tempted but it's a lot of work to make up the packs
And is need 15of then for a 40ah 48v pack so £510 before even putting in my time as labour. If we do group buy it would be good to use your lead acid with mine as a home solar bank. Anyway just a thought as I don't know whether you'd have a use for them.
 
whereswally606

Im probally looking to wards end of year for lithium up grade as my batteries are OK but lets keep it in mind if there is a possibility of buying more than one set, so if any body out there is considering Litium this year please joint in and let us know as more sets will equal better discount.
I contacted V moto direct a few weeks ago just to get a ball mark figure for there lithium conversion kits to fit straight into our 48 v bikes as is with sevcon controller see below, what do you think of these ?
Hi Kevin,

Thanks for your inquiry first.

We have 2 options of the lithium kit.

A. Lithium without BMS
Capacity: 48V60AH
Battery warranty time: 16 months
Battery cost: 980 USD (EXW)
Labor time of converting it: 30 minutes
Charger: No need to change

B. Lithium with BMS
Capacity: 48V52AH
Battery warranty time: 24 months
Battery cost: 1,625 USD (EXW)
Labor time of converting it: 90 minutes
Charger: need to change too, above quotation included the charger cost

Ive got solar panel on my house which were a free goverment fit scheme and they really do work, its cut my electric bill down by at leaset a third plus now the suns out I charge the bike when i get home from work for nothing, im also in the process of fitting a solar diverter in my garage so if my system starts to export electric this device switches on and heats my hot water for nothing plus i save gas as well.

whereswally606 where abouts do you live in Chesire ?

Cheers kevin
 
Cheadle, good to know about the solar. I've got some flexible panels 319v which I would run through a server psu to get down to 12v to charge sla. Anyway I think I'd go with bms but I think we would do better if we shopped about abit.
 
Had a look on ev-power.eu at 48v 60ah combos without factoring a bms and came to about £860 each not much better than what vmoto quoted.
Different topic
Did manage to score a 36v 4ah maclister battery for £34 from a local b&q first one blew up on first charge, second one I had them charge for 100mins in the shop before taking with. Will be using in my car with a step down convertor to take auxiliary loads off my 12v. Hopefully this will see my mpg go up as the cars own dcdc is lossy.
 
Jonescg

Can I ask you how to remove the back wheel for tyre change ? Also can you disconnect the cable and hall sensors quickly ? Do they have quick release connectors.

Thanks kevin
 
The hub motor has a dozen Allen key bolts holding the side of the rim on. Deflate the tyre, take these out and the tyre complete with inner tube will come right off. Same in reverse, but you might need a set of clamps to help compress the rim far enough that you can get some thread started for a few of the bolts.
 
Thanks Jonescg

So theres no need to disconnect any electric is that correct ? and I can fit this with winter tyres my self which is much better than my recently sold Aryfield which i had to remove alot of body panels to disconnect the wiring to change tyres.
Jonescg do you have any other useful info on this bike that may come in handy for future ref ? as im loving the extra speed and even though it is a bit heavy with the Silicon batteries when they die the lost of weight when converted to lithium will be brillient

Cheers kevin
 
So I reinstalled the batteries, have been charging them with 3 seriesed server supplies current limited by a meanwell clone with a fechter v3 limiter all set at 57.8 volts which gets me a charging current of 12amps not bad. Will road test soon.
 
whereswally606

Hope it works for you let me know how you get on, it may take a few charge discharges to fully recondition the batteries if they have fully recovered,
Just to give you an indication of what i get from my 63 plate silicon batteries, i have now consistently rode 21 miles on max power down to the one bar and then gone home between 30 amd 40 mph so all seems good my only concern is i ride to work and back 13 miles and then charge the batteries but to fully charge it only takes around 1.5 hours as they are not fully drained, i read some where that it is better to partially drain your silicon batteries and they can last up to 300 charges compared to 100 charges if you fully drain them every time, not sure if its true or not what do you think ?.
What age is your E max ? and does it have the Sevcon controller or an earlier version, it all depends on age of machine.
We were also talking about the lithium up grade at some point and I have a full PDF document from E max for the two lithium conversions I requested if you ever want it just send me your E mail and i will send to any body interested.
 
Yeah I only put the batteries back in yesterday, gonna make a bypass lead to the battery which disconnects the controller while charging. Since I'm not using an official emax charger it's probs a smart move. I will pm you my email for that PDF else can you not upload it to this thread? I've got an older model since my controller is the proud eagle one. But I've got the programmer for it to up the settings for when I upgrade the battery. My commute is 22 miles each way so will need a second charger no matter what. I need to find someone who can repair the one I've got or buy one I found for sale in Conwy off eBay for £150.
 
Great success this weekend, finally had my detached concrete sectional garage/Workshop connected with a seperate consumer unit for 240v (standard uk) and also fixed the emax charger. Had to temporarily sorn the bike till I insure it but things will move faster now I have the original charger working. Basically the green on led became disconnected so I replaced it with a spare uv one i had from a light box project for doing pcb development. Anyway lots of fun testing it this weekend.
 
whereswally606

So the only thing stopping the charger working was a loose connection on the chargers green LED light ? thats madness but also useful to know if it happens to mine. How are you doing with the batteries ? ive run mine now Feb march and nearly all of April and covered 442 miles without issue (touch wood) thats a total of approx 34 charges, hoping i will get all this year on the batteries and then im swapping to Lithium, you havent send me your E mail address yet and i will send you the PDF for E maxes convertion to Lithium using there kit, its over 40 pages so its best going by e mail.
im loving the extra speed with this bike and when the batteries are replaced accelaration and hill climbing will improve with the weight loss.

cheers kevin
 
Yep loose led was all, haven't had time to test since need my cbt and to insure it. But there's a carpark small on two doors down from my house which is mostly empty. Given the emax a few gos on that. Will pm my email
 
Kev, my neighbour noticed that my brake light is permanently on when the bike is on, is this true on your emax or does it come on when you brake (ie when a brake light is supposed to) can you take a pic of your controller wiring under the seat so I can compare visual with mine.
 
Regarding your brake light when he says it's on he's not mistaking it for the side lights, so if my light switch is off when I turn bike on the back light isn't on but if I press either brake lever it lights up , if you leave your side light switch in the mid position and turn your bike on the back light is lit but if you press either brake lever it gets brighter , so check this first.
The only internal pic I have at moment of controller is on the side of the sevcon controller I've attached it below if you can't see it let me know and I will e mail it you.

Cheers kevin
 

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Okay yours must be a newer model but maybe the msu is similar. Definitely not mistaking the brake light for a side light. Just fixed my indicator which broke when I walked past it in my previously cramped garage, since boarding my loft I regained order in the garage and projects should progress again. Was a silly thing really the plastic which the screw fixes into perished on the amber filter. It's fixed now with MacDonald's straw, turnigy heat shrink, a wallplug and some hot glue. Seems less ropey than the other one now.
As I look at the msu from behind the bike the connected on the right has 4 cut wires, only the center 2 vertically of the 10 holes have connections. I took a photo which I'll post later from my phone.
 
Did you receive the PDF for the lithium conversion ? And what reg plate is the bike as that will determine the type of controller it has
 
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