Wouldn't it be easier just to sleeve the original shaft?
Miles wrote:What kind of clutch-bearing is it?
buzzfirst wrote:Hello, If you have centers for the headstock and tailstock it should be doable to turn a shaft that length on your 4x machine. Center drill each end of a piece of stock, mount the stock between centers, and turn the 12mm part then turn the 6mm part. When turning between centers you can remove and remount the part without losing your center. You could get the 6mm part close (but big) and test fit it, put it back on the lathe and take another small amount either with a tool bit, file, or emery paper, repeat until done. Do you have an outside micrometer or at least a caliper for outside measurement? Option 2... If you only have a 3 jaw chuck mount a piece of oversize stock, turn the entire needed length to 12mm then turn the 6mm end on the tailstock end of the part. That way you can test fit the 6mm end in your motor without removing the part and everything will stay centered and circular. Start with a good piece of known steel or you may just waste your time. 1/2 inch drill rod would be perfect as you would have just enough to true the rod up in the chuck before you got to 12 mm and it is easily hardened after you get the dimensions correct.
erth64net wrote:Maybe, but it's not keyed, so I worry about slippage; this particular design is hopefully where I can say "done", and finally give the whole setup a few months of solid "reliable" usage...
Miles wrote:erth64net wrote:Maybe, but it's not keyed, so I worry about slippage; this particular design is hopefully where I can say "done", and finally give the whole setup a few months of solid "reliable" usage...
You'll get the sprag clutch with a keyway, then?
buzzfirst wrote:With a turned shaft you would simply loosen the set screws and disassemble. With adhesive you would either have to press it apart, pound it apart or heat enough to soften the adhesive(which would wreak havoc on the bearing seals). Even though the hammer method is more fun you would still have to hold the bearing while hitting the shaft. Once apart it would have to be cleaned of all the old adhesive and reset in adhesive.
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