$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Hey, can anyone reccomend a 72V controller for which is sure that it doesnt have a massive delay? As far as i know, the 72V 1500W one has the delay, what about the 1000W version? Also, how low is the LVC for the 84V version and does it have the delay? Also interested in this programming thing, has anyone tried it with keywin software?
 
I have red somewhere that lower power controllers have no delay. Can anybody confirm that for 500w sunwin controler? I have 1500W 72V and it has a 1 second delay.

Also I spent a lot of time playing with self-study. I changed phases and halls in manny random combinations. Somehow always when motor is spinning in reverse there is no delay, but for forward there is, no matter what direction motor spins first (re-connecting selft study changes direction) -.-
 
If you turning controller on with self-study wires connected and it rotates in wrong direction just press throttle and it will change direction and match halls. Then wait a while and disconnect self-study wires. It should work fine after that.
 
- I power on first
- than connect the self-study
- than if I want to change direction, I disconnect and reconnect the self-study

I will try to turn the throttle while self-study is connected when i get to my bike later.
 
Strange I have the 1500w 48-72v and I have suffered no delay with the throttle i get full amps from the moment I full twist the throttle and my shunt gauge confirms this.
 
My Sunwin controller (60v,1500w,18fet's ) is holding up extremely well, it pulls 140 amps on the battery side (measured with calibrated Fluke clamp), on a 20s 26ah lipo. I think it's unbelievable! I used 1 XT90 connector from my battery but it got quite hot, now I use 1 XT90 connector (+and-) for the + and 1 XT90 (+and-) for the -/ground to keep them cool (2x90amp)
After seeing the amp draw I knew my controller was going to have a short life, but I was wrong! Still alive after 450km of torture.

The only thing I hate is the delay, because of this 0-40kmh is not the full amp's I would like, 40-90kmh is great, almost to much.

First I thought it was the controller switching from sensored mode (0-40kmh) and sensorless mode (40-90kmh) but if I go to wide open throttle and hold my scooter with my legs and the brake as long as possible, the delay stops at 30kmh instead of the usual 40kmh.

I'm starting to think it's hallsensor related, so Ianhill can you do a little test for me/us?
I'm very curious to know what happens if you (Ianhill) switch 2 wires on the hall sensor cable/connector and leave the rest as it is.
Then do the self learning procedure (otherwise it would not run) and test your setup for delay again, if you don't have any delay with 2 hallsensors switched the delay is not hall-sensor related I think.
 
Will do, I'm in the middle of swapping the wiring to 10awg to the battery and 12awg to my motor I'm using the xt90 in and a mt60 out as I only plan on 3kw max ill ride that get feel for it and add another controller, motor and gear it down but its in bits at the moment getting some loving so the begining of next week I should have some answers for you its strange how some have a soft start and others don't and I don't have experience with circuitry to get a definitive answer I earn my butter in installation and theory.
 
I bought two 84V 1000W controllers from sunwin (one as spare) for my bicycle.
The label says "SH84U35GV15T-WZ3".

Both have immediate start, no delay.

Stock current limit is
Speed I: 33-35A (oscillating a bit)
Speed II: 50-51A
Speed III: same 50-51A.

so Suggs may be right when guessing the second number is the current limit.

For the spreadsheet, if still relevant:
Board: ENO 15CM-V8.1
15 FET MXP1007AT

Controller gets a little warm @4500W max. Thicker wires and beefing up the board traces did not help much.

There's an additional feature I have not read in this thread:
Set speed switch to III (IIRC black & blue connected).
Accelerate to full speed, keep that speed for about 5 seconds.
There is an extra boost, you gain about 7-10 kph. Voltage and current change fast (about 85-90V), not easy to watch on the CA.
That effect only shows under load, not when the wheel is in the air (btw, no-load-speed @Speed III is crazy, this goes to eleven! :mrgreen: )

What is this? Going sensorless? Field weakening?

What battery current do you think is "safe" when modding the shunt?
 
on the 2000w 80v i needed to lower the low voltage cutout. all you have to do is unsolder the blob on the pad and you have no lvc :D
]
 
Just taken delivery of my 48v 18fet controller. Took less than 10 days to the UK.

6a750830-eb35-4431-9f8f-5af6a136220d_zps3b7dxbk1.jpg

IMG_4034_zpsiwoy74zz.jpg
 
Can anyone tell me what size phase wires to order to go with this controller please? I'm pretty new to this. Cheers
 
While reading the translated page of the sunwin 500w empty motherboard on http://www.ddc.net.cn/offerlist/1031130/500952.html I noticed a few things, might be just bad translation but this is what I "found":
12, HI: speed or three-speed switch high-speed vehicle speed and strength increase, real afterburner acceleration. Three-speed switch is compatible with high-speed (three-speed switch connection: HI-speed, ground, TX low, default normal speed) effective ground. Afterburner acceleration (speeding) (the Hall mode is active, no Hall invalid)

13, LO: button three-speed or three-speed circulating default normal speed, click speed, low speed and click, then click the normal speed. Such rate cut cycle. Connection: ground, signal line (ground active)
Click to expand...

So LO can be used as a button, tapping LO to ground (like a click) to cycle between modes: low, normal and high speed.????

Also this:
1, XX: motor learning mouth wires, power lines and feature cable connected, and learning lines connected, turn on the power (electric door lock), the motor will automatically enter the state of learning, such as learning to pull the motor run reverse at this time insert identification line, the motor reversal, or open learning lines have been transferred to the rotation, the motor will reverse. OEMs for ordinary use, you can not learn lines, direct labor adjustment phase. No Hall and maintenance staff based on personal habits, learning lines choose to use use. Special Note: After completion of study learning lines must be disconnected, and good protection, so as not to run into the frame malfunction, affecting the normal use of the controller. Connection: ground and signal lines (effectively grounded)
Click to expand...
Does this mean that if the motor spins backwards you have to change 2 phase wires (doesn't matter witch one) and don't change the hallsensor wires, then do self learn aggain.??
This might be the reason for the delay some people (incl me) have. I had to reconnect the self learn to make it go forward fist time.

Then this:
32, 33: Current sampling ports normal standby This 2-pin voltage is about 1.26v

The first 3435 feet: current pickup signal amplification normal standby voltage of about 0.12

If the four-pin voltage may result in abnormal limiting current limit is too small or could not, (if the pin voltage is not normal, please check R9, R10, R28, R29)
Click to expand...
So Instead of soldering the shunt wires you could also change the resistance of these resistors.
 
My controller was acting real strange today, I noticed my wheel spun backwards and I had paired the controller to an identicle motor but its not actual the same one just I have two as i plan on going dual motor in time, so i connected the self learn and it spun the correct way so I let it rev to max and stay there for 10 seconds or so then turn off and disconnect the self learn then when I would turn back on and press the throttle the motor would go backwards again it done this 4 times then on 5th attempt it finally self learned the correct way and spun correct way on the throttle very strange.
Any ideas ? I know there's 36 combinations maybe the controller was confused I really don't know this one and I hate not knowing what went on but the wiring was correct every time its been fool proofed with connectors that only fit the correct way so I really don't know why, And all halls where healthy when checked no leakage between phases all is well in the motor gremlins maybe.
 
I ended up swapping the outer two phase and hall wires, and running it reverse.
 
Ianhill said:
I had paired the controller to an identicle motor but its not actual the same one just I have two as i plan on going dual motor in time
Click to expand...

Don't be fooled into thinking the motors will have the same wiring combination. I have two identical motors and they are wired differently (in terms of wire colours)

Ianhill said:
so i connected the self learn and it spun the correct way so I let it rev to max and stay there for 10 seconds or so then turn off and disconnect the self learn then when I would turn back on and press the throttle the motor would go backwards again it done this 4 times then on 5th attempt it finally self learned the correct way and spun correct way on the throttle very strange.
Click to expand...

My self learn function works as follows:
With no power to the controller, plug the self learn cables together (white wires on mine). Then power up. The wheel will start to spin. If it spins in the correct direction unplug white wires. If the wheel spins in the wrong direction, turn the throttle slowly/carefully until the motor changes direction. Once it's rotating the correct way, unplug the white wires. Don't power the controller down before unplugging the white wires.
 
I was doing it incorrectly then because I would turn off then disconnect so that was my problem on the 5th time I bet I messed the order up to the correct way just by luck.
 
I'm using the 48-72v 1500w adjustable controller and a 12s 16ah lipo pack, when the speed setting is on max it pulls 1.7kw or 34amp upto 30mph and then it hulks out and chucks 2.8kw 54amp at the motor and boosts me upto 41mph ive gone up steep inclines give it the death and it barely gets warm.
 
speedmd said:
I am looking to buy the 72v 1500 watt controller for mid drive setup, but they list also a 48v -72v variable input 1500w one that is a bit larger. Does anyone know them both and advise on which may be a better setup.
Click to expand...

I have both and the board/components are the same. The only difference being, you can change the LVC to either 48v/60v/72v on the variable one. That's what the variable part is on this controller.
 
Ianhill said:
I'm using the 48-72v 1500w adjustable controller and a 12s 16ah lipo pack, when the speed setting is on max it pulls 1.7kw or 34amp upto 30mph and then it hulks out and chucks 2.8kw 54amp at the motor and boosts me upto 41mph ive gone up steep inclines give it the death and it barely gets warm.
Click to expand...

Have you set up a 3 speed switch or just wired it for max speed?
 
Ive got a 3 speed switch, I'm using the ignition barrel and key that came with the scooter so I have to stop to change it over or slow down to do it one handed but to adjust the speed setting there's a wire with three colours black yellow and blue black to blue is high black to yellow is low left unconnected is medium.
The original controller was super jerky on the throttle like on off switch unless it was set to slow speed, this one can be revved decent its not perfect but a massive improvement for me really transformed the scooter.
In time I want to rewind my motor to lower kV go 16s lipo steepen up the gearing and maybe a lick of solder on the shunt to get me around 50mph.
Only problem I got is when the boost kicks in if I'm on a slippery surface wet leaves etc i start to wheel spin on a electric scooter at 30mph :) I was shocked when it first happened at 30 it used to be flat out with this controller its just getting started my motors revving to 8k rpm to hit 40mph and seems less heat in the motor where as it got quite warm with old controller on a long steep climb same now barely gets it mildly warm, it's keeping up with traffic on the road to 40mph no probs ive done 9 miles in 20 mins mountain roads too big climbs it took me 45mins on my old brushed ride and used more energy.
 
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