$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Thanks guys, most likely to go with the fixed voltage as it is a more compact case going by the specs. Is it odd that it would pick up power at 30 MPH. Jerky throttle on the first unit? Is it possible that it failed the self learn settings of the motor or had a throttle issue? Looks like a good value if it holds up.
 
speedmd said:
Thanks guys, most likely to go with the fixed voltage as it is a more compact case going by the specs. Is it odd that it would pick up power at 30 MPH. Jerky throttle on the first unit? Is it possible that it failed the self learn settings of the motor or had a throttle issue? Looks like a good value if it holds up.

What I meant was the scooters original controller was jerky, the sunwin revs quite nice, I swapped to go to 16s but with this controller I would say 12s is plenty for most on boost but I gonna push it but further but the motor needs a rewind first, Ive discharged 12s 16ah through it in 20mins it was a completely flat out harsh ride the controller was no warmer than the batterys and they were only mildly warm for the cost the whole scooter kicks arse it owes me around £300 complete I had the scooter for £90 :)
 
So the programmable angle is tossed out the window for these Sunwin controllers, is that the case?
I havent really been doing anything lately, other projects. Fall season, winters coming.
The only thing I am looking for is a small yet powerful DD motor, and I will use one of my two Sunwin controllers.
I have not yet hooked any of mine up. So I will have questions about wiring for sure.
 
Does anyone know the max Erpm of these controllers ? I have got 20000erpm and 8000 mechanical (3pole 9n6p motor) I think the motor is my limiting factor, I believe the controller switches to sensorless when in high speed turbo pursuit mode so what's the limiting factor then is it saturation, laminates and the structure of the motor itself or does the controller still play it's part I know current and voltage will limit my speed but what I'm interested in is the erpms ?
I'm wondering as to how well it could perform on a high pole count hub motor top erpms achieved any one ?
 
So has anyone figured out the programming on these controller? I got a 48v1500w on the way
 
BeachRider2016 said:
So has anyone figured out the programming on these controller? I got a 48v1500w on the way

I doubt there is any programming with these controllers. But we can always hope right.
 
Ive had a typical 1000w controller came with one of the kits I got on ebay. I took it apart last night to take a few pics to share.
Also got a monsterous 24fets one to show its internal. I couldn't get a clear picture of the chip and didn't write down any info :cry:

After modded the shun with a solder piece of wires from a 10G wire, the Amperage went way up to 60A. So that's roughly 2800w goes into my 1000w hub. Speed didn't increase but torque went dramatically.
 

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And here's the monsterous 24fets version:
 

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Greetings!

Love this thread. I picked up a SunWin 48V 2000W 24Fets. I hooked it up to a GoldenMotor BLDC 1.5kw. I am running a 48v Lithium 21ah pack with BMS. Its fast as hell on a new Baja MiniBike Build I am doing.

After just running it at a short period, the cable from the motor that has the hall cables + the small gauged phase cables is extremely HOT. The Motor is not even warm. Do you think by me getting the 2000w version and not the 1500w did this? I set the speed setting to Low (yellow and black grounded).

Temporarily I have some bolts holding the phase cables together with the controllers ring terminals. At that point its not hot, it doesn't get hot until 6 inches towards the motor. I am waiting for some gold plated 5mm bullet connectors to arrive to replace the ring terminals.

What do you guys suggest I do:

1) Take motor apart, replace phase cables with 8 or 10awg wires.
2) cut a shunt trace to limit the current on the controller (I read that people do that to slow it down)
3) just get the 1500w version and be done with it
 
If the 3 speed switch isn't installed. Which speed will the controller be set to?

Thanks
 
jase1979 said:
If the 3 speed switch isn't installed. Which speed will the controller be set to?

Thanks

Someone posted here in the 15 or so pages that its "Medium" speed is default with nothing jumpered. I am not sure if its correct, but when I shorted Black and Yellow, I could tell there was a little less speed.

Black and Yellow = Slow
Black and Blue = Fast
Nothing = Medium
 
KozmoK said:
After just running it at a short period, the cable from the motor that has the hall cables + the small gauged phase cables is extremely HOT. The Motor is not even warm.

From what i understand the motors windings are in the stator a big lump of iron with good heat transfer properties but the phase wires coming Into the can are in the magnetic field but they are floating in air so they have worse heat transfer properties an heat gathers thats why its the first spot to melt on a phase is typically the start of the phase or the ends turns, So if the phase wires are floating in air coming into the case its good practice to use a thicker gauge than the winding to help with this weak spot, what you can feel is the heat dissipating along the cable try upgrading to a 8awg if it will fit more the better but keep a eye on the stator core temperatures.
 
Simplest way is to cut the phase wires as it exits the axle, then install thicker wire.
Or you could go all the way back to the windings, but fishing all the wires through the axle of the motor can be a bit of finagling. If you like the motor, and you can find some PTFE Teflon wire then that is your best bet. And of course do 8mm gold plated bullets.
 
markz said:
Simplest way is to cut the phase wires as it exits the axle, then install thicker wire.
Or you could go all the way back to the windings, but fishing all the wires through the axle of the motor can be a bit of finagling. If you like the motor, and you can find some PTFE Teflon wire then that is your best bet. And of course do 8mm gold plated bullets.

Thanks, its not a hub motor, but just a motor with shaft (goldenmotor BLDC-108) - so it might be easier to take a part. But I see the bigger the wire will help dissapate the heat from the smaller wire closest to the motor. I will try shortening the wire, it currently is 2ft long and I only need about 10" - will cut and and put in the gold plated bullets. It seems the phase wires are only about 12
 
Here is the 96v 1000w & 15000w Models

96v 1000w
Fet: IRFB4115 3329 2E 31
Caps: 160v 470uF

98fFHhsm.jpg

ACrGYoem.jpg

5KOv0rGm.jpg

FgNZH4hm.jpg

QHGLTrwm.jpg



96v 15000w
Fet: IRFB4115 329P JS 21
Caps: 160v 470uF

icndUrqm.jpg

m9ABa2Om.jpg

X785Df4m.jpg



Both have a cause of death. Blue phase tracers to fets obliterated. Exact same area as well.
NAYcB3um.jpg

CkPs5odm.jpg

5mnv031m.jpg



Both where running 108v 20ah acid deep cycle.

The 96v versions have another pcb board on the VCC side on the pcb that the 60-84 do not have.
N0kaZrkm.jpg


I have..
60v 1000 - Still running - Silent
72v 1000 - Still running - Silent
72v 1500 - Still running - Noisy
84v 1000 - Still running - Silent
96v 1000 - Blown - Silent
96v 1500 - Blown 1st one - 2nd one still running - Both sets are noisy

The noise may be due to the limit of the hub motors. Silent under 1500. Loud with 1500w controllers
 
I see 417 items,
Searched "Controllers"
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/m.html?_ssn=hksunwin&_armrs=1&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=controllers&_sop=15
Prices seemed to have risen a little bit. But otherwise I dont notice much difference.
 
Must be coming from Australia thing, as shown by this link. (only 32 items)

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/hksunwin/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
 
His prices keep creeping. Aussies get a good chance to bid due to odd hours


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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