KiwiEVs next project fast EV

Not that I have any experience, but I'd be tending towards an extra cross member and suspend a loop from there.

There are some forms of motorsport that require driveshaft precautions like that. Maybe there are some examples that could be used for inspiration. I guess the main difference is they are usually installing the protection inside a transmission tunnel.

http://www.jbrcaustralia.com/index.php?page=59
 
Merry Christmas Guys

I have a little / big problem L

I was taking a customer out for a ride in the shop truck Christmas eve, fully charge 165 volts no-regen leaving our shop downhill (that’s OK) I got to the sealed road and decided to do a 1st gear start wheel spin 2nd gear wheel still spinning and into 3rd going great J
Then I was coming back up to the shop on our dirt road and gave a lot of gas in 2nd it sounded like it over spun? Then popped the fuse. Nothing was hot BTW.

It’s my duel AC-35 set up, hour glass gave a code 14 – pre-charge fail

I replaced the fuse key start and code 14 again popped fuse bugger

Checked over contactors controller with multi meter found the following:

-both contactors shorted can’t even tap with hammer to open
-both controller + and – connections have a hard short across them even with Neg power lead disconnected.
-no residual power or volts across terminals

I haven’t got any other 1239 controllers to check terminals but all our 1238 controllers are open circuit between + and – terminals which I thought would be the case.

Any help would be great Guys Thanks
 
If it overspun, is there a chance it induced a voltage back into the controller higher than the FETs could handle, and popped them? Popped FETs could read dead short across main battery input.
 
How, why would it have overspun? Sounds like a controller firmware issue if it did... I wouldn't have thought it could happen unless you shifted down a gear at super high rpm?
 
I was only in 2nd gear and punched the thottle in power mode I have done this before and rear end gets crazy loose in the dirt. I was recommended a 350 Amp fuse when I bought the kit, which in hind site seams too small. I was giving her heaps of gas before but I only drove 5 miles total.
Would the fuse blowing give the FETs no where to flow?
I understand the contactors welding at 500 Amps each and the fuse blows.
I connected the curtis hand programmer up and diagnosed just gives pre-charge fail and secondary controller fault no code.

Any ideas or am I up for 2 controllers and 2 contactors

Cheers Kiwi
 
Good news I hope

I have no other faults except the welded contactors so just waiting for things to open so I can order 2 contactors and a fuse.
Off to Petrol head heart land with the electric ute Summernats hotrod show wish me luck.
Cheers Kiwi
 
How did it go at Summernats? I hope you weren't anywhere near that guy who fell off the ute.
 
galderdi said:
How did it go at Summernats? I hope you weren't anywhere near that guy who fell off the ute.
Click to expand...

It was a 100 meters down the road from our static display bloody tragedy mate.

We had over 12000 people thru the stand, was still a hard sell the people below 18 years and above 40 years were more respective and were keen to know more.

If someone could put together a burnout vehicle that could last 2 minutes and blow tires you would win over the masses.

Cheers Kiwi
 
I'd give it a go in mine. But it's front wheel drive so it still might not get the reaction. I would be tempted to run fake V8 sound through a big amp for the first half of the burnout and then suddenly turn it off to really confuse them.
I attended a couple of static shows last year with some good interest. But the best one is being held on Feb 12 which is the same date as my first competition for the year.
 
Just a quick update

Installed new fuse and contactors, good and bad news the secondary controller fired up ok the primary has a pre charge fault smoked the bleed resistor and relay, replaced and smoked new bleed resistor so I think I'm up for one controller.
The joys of EVs :evil:

Cheers Kiwi
 
Well, you could use a brushed motor to mechanically spin a 3phase BLDC, that is electrically linked to the drive motor's phases, and cause that motor to drive the wheels... ;)
 
:lol:
amberwolf said:
Well, you could use a brushed motor to mechanically spin a 3phase BLDC, that is electrically linked to the drive motor's phases, and cause that motor to drive the wheels... ;)
Click to expand...
 
The Toecutter said:
It's got some nuts. Was that 50% maximum possible input power to the motor?

I'd hoon it.
Click to expand...

No that was at slew rate 0.4 I can go to 0.1 slew rate and battery was only at 50% just being nice to the old girl for a start :p

It barks the tires I need to get a wheel alignment done and have a long to do list.

Cheers Kiwi
 
So a few updates

The ute I ended up blowing the primary controller FETS :twisted: lucky we are suppliers now and with the help of HPEV and EV West have a replacement on the way :D

The 66 BUG is on the road hooning did its first Friday night lapping around town amazing the people that come out and look at her and are blown away when they see the motor. The power is more than enough for this old girl :mrgreen:

Cheers Kiwi

Couldn't help laying some rubber on the driveway 8)
 

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