Now THAT'S A SWITCH !!

Doctorbass

100 GW
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
7,495
Location
Quebec, Canada East
like you already know, my old switch turned into plasma few days after updating to 100V 90A.. so i decided to get the BEST solution i can get: The New 500A 320VDC Kilovac contactor !

I bough 3 of them to rebuilt a totally new plasma proof Serie/Parallel switch!

They have the special coil econimozer that is a circuit that reduce the hold current from 12W to 1.7W !!

They are Aerospace grade.. when i'll plan to make a flying electric bike... 8) :mrgreen: i'm jocking...!


Doc
 

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there's a place near me that I can get em for like 120 USD... got mine a few months back (2 of em) for 100 USD. Great contactors.
 
Wow, westguarde still has them for 99 bucks a pop!!!! nice!
http://www.wesgarde.com/newproduct_Kilivac.shtml

500+A carry, 2000A interrupt at 320VDC (operating voltage 12-900VDC)
Built-in coil economizer – only 1.7W hold power @ 12VDC and it limits back EMF to 0V.
Hermetically sealed.
Coil voltage for the EV200 AAANA is 9-36VDC
over 50,000 cycles if you precharge.
No back emf diode needed.

http://cafeelectric.com/downloads/ev200.pdf
 
I got 2 of mine at 105$can each from an Ontario supplyer (Wesgarde) and the third from ebay at 75$.

Hello Stephane,
2 pcs EV200AAANA @ $105.00 ea = $210.00
GST = 10.50
Shipping& Handling = $15.00
Total $235.50
Thankyou

Diana Jentas
[DJentas@wesgarde.com]
Sales Rep
Wes-Garde Components
http://www.wesgarde.com


Also, The LEV100 is cheaper 64.50$ can and can take 100A

Doc
 
Hi folks.

I am COMPLETELY new to this, please bear with my ignorance..

What are these switches used for, exactly? Is it to provide disconnecting means between the battery and controller?
 
Lol Doc, I just fitted one of those to the 144v 500A TTX01 motorbike, what are you doing with that on an Ebike:p

Nice small contactors huh? Half the size and weight of the one on my Aprilia, and half the current needed to switch it too!
 
Doc,
whats the coil voltage? (avail with 12v dc coils???) What do you think it can switch for current and hold continuous at 100v? at 14.4?
 
It' s good to hear from you Jozzer! 8)

I just bought and installed 3 of those on my electric bike to switch from parallel to serie with my two 50V 23Ah pack.
They replace the common serie/parallel (3pdt switch) like the Allbright. see this topic: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7351&p=111265&hilit=+serie+parallel#p111265

The plan this summer is to have a 4 electric speed!!.. i'll use 50V or 100V (and that will allow me to charge both pack in parallel without any disconnect with my 1500W portable charger :twisted:

Also, i plan to add a 3PDT relay that i've bought on ebay to switch the X5 motor winding from WYE to DELTA and to get a 1.73 ratio.. so instead of being limited in speed at 100V with my 5305 to around 75kph.. i'll reach to around 95-100kph at full current full volt :twisted:

I also want to test that in the 1/4 miles drag lane!

This idea of switching the winding while accelerating to get more high end acceleration.. you know.. just when the back emf is close to the max voltage at full throttle and that your acceleration become to decrease?...

This idea is similar to the Killacycle is using two motor that are switched from serie to parallel to give it a kickdown at half speed...

so with serie/parallel and WYE/DELTA.. i'll get 4 combinaisons to test :twisted:


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Doc
 
ohyea said:
Doc,
whats the coil voltage? (avail with 12v dc coils???) What do you think it can switch for current and hold continuous at 100v? at 14.4?


These contactor are the cream de la cream!

they are aerostapce grade and have no problem with arc blowout.. they can endure 500A switch.. but they are rated 250A at 900VDC and 500 at 320VDC make or brake!!!

Their coil take from around 10V to 36V .. they have a circuit inside that adjust the right current to hold the contact and to minimize the current consumption as low as 1.7W !! to hold max current!! :mrgreen:

Carrying a continuous current of 500 Amps with a 2000 Amp interrupt rating; the hermetically sealed case allows operation in explosive and harsh environments. The EV200 has a built in coil economizer offering a low hold current of 1.7W @ 12VDC and limits back EMF to zero. A 9-36 VDC coil range and diode protection come as standard features. Other coil ranges available. their brake contact capability is 208 000W :twisted:

http://cafeelectric.com/downloads/ev200.pdf

They also have the EV100 lower current.

Doc
 
wow, safe to say you could have gotten by with the 100's it looks like! I need one to parallel my a123 pack to my Headway pack.
 
Super switch! but I cannot fathom spending that much...
My low cost switch(plug) will do for me, capable of handling 90A. Used in conjunction with precharge resistor separately wired to key switch.

stuff used:
- four pairs 45 Amp Contacts and housing
- 12awg wire in pairs(8awg equivalent)
- Powerpole Pak outer shell
- hair band :lol:
 

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shinyballs that's a nice option too.

Mine is when i need to change while runing so i need something fast!

Doc
 
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The Police in your area must all be totally blind! :twisted: :lol:
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Doctorbass said:
 
Show the Alternative Fuel tech! How will the masses understand, learn if
we try to hide it? yesterday, i rode side by side with a cop car going 30mph, no flashing lights.. and this is not the first time.
I'm not afraid to show my shit, do you?

btw, except speeding a bit sometimes, I always obey traffic rules and regulations.
 
:twisted:

That's why i use a cover to hide these "mad scientist" connections !!.. and also to avoid rain/snow to reach them

Doc
 
Hate to sound like a newbie but I've never understood how contactors are used. Can someone explain it? Like, what are the functions of the three Doctorbass is using? And is there a physical switch on the contactor (like a lever or pushbutton) or do you wire a separate switch in with the contactor somehow?
 
Contactors are just big relays: a lower-power coil electromagnetically closes a higher-power switch.

Typically, contactors are used to connect a drive pack to a controller, so the system has an on/off switch for the high power section.
Precharging2b.jpg

Doc is using contactors to switch portions of his drive-pack from parallel to series.
file.php

(Coil supply & switches not illustrated.)

CGameProgrammer said:
Hate to sound like a newbie but I've never understood how contactors are used. Can someone explain it? Like, what are the functions of the three Doctorbass is using? And is there a physical switch on the contactor (like a lever or pushbutton) or do you wire a separate switch in with the contactor somehow?
 
Now I understand Doc's wiring diagram, but am clueless regarding your circuit diagram, Tyler. Why is the keyswitch in parallel? And why is the diode and killswitch where you placed them? I read the wikipedia article on contactors and now understand a small amout of power is used to electromagnetically close the main switch in the contactor, but I would think you'd put a keyswitch and killswitch in series along a 12VDC line from a DC-DC converter (or whatever) and have that go to the coil input. I'm assuming there is just one positive and one negative lead for the coil, or is it more complicated than that?

EDIT: Well after further thought, I now see the keyswitch needs to be closed for the coil circuit to close, but I still don't know why you felt it had to be done that way or what the resistor by the keyswitch is for.
 
CGameProgrammer said:
EDIT: Well after further thought, I now see the keyswitch needs to be closed for the coil circuit to close, but I still don't know why you felt it had to be done that way or what the resistor by the keyswitch is for.

The keyswitch and the resistor will also pre-charge the big caps in the controller so that you don't get the huge "pop" when the main power is connected. For any setup of 72V, or higher, I think this is a great idea. I can't tell you how many sets of connectors I've fried on my 72V/5304 setups, before adding a small pushbutton with a resistor to precharge the caps.

-- Gary
 
Gary, Re your adding a small pushbutton switch with resister to precharge the caps.

1. For a 36v 600w hub, what should the rating of the PB swith be?

2. Is a 1k 5w resister correct for a 35a controler?

3. I am using a enclosed switch so don't see the flash, so, how long need the circuit be closed to charge the cap?Thanks Gary. I'm living and learing. Fooling with the wires is almost as much fun as riding the Ebike. Tks again......
 
The 1k 5W resistor should be more than adequate (plenty of headroom if you upgrade to higher voltage ).

The precharge switch can be small, since the resistor is limiting current.

It should only take a second to precharge the caps.
 
[youtube]RQmAynHhhPE[/youtube]

thanks doc!!... i finally put it on my bike...

i need to find a way to insulate the contract to avoid someone getting zapped!

Doc... how do you power the contactors if you don't mind me asking?... do you use a seperate battery?

-steveo
 
steveo said:
[youtube]RQmAynHhhPE[/youtube]

thanks doc!!... i finally put it on my bike...

i need to find a way to insulate the contract to avoid someone getting zapped!

Doc... how do you power the contactors if you don't mind me asking?... do you use a seperate battery?

-steveo

I'm using a old LCD monitor power supply as a DC-Dc.

It' s a 12V 4A switching that normally take 100-240Vac but i discovered two years ago that some of them acept DC current at input !! some can take from as low as 20Vdc only!!

so that make you a cheap dc-dc that can take any voltage from 20 to 240V ac or dc !!

you can also buy some from ebay at 9.99$ that are rated 12V 4.5 A. they generally all work!

if one dont work.. you can try reversing the polarity at the AC input.. sometime it only can take one polarity cause it's dc and not AC at input.

sumarry: many simple AC switching power supply adaptor can work as Dc-Dc !!

since these Ev200 can take between 9 to 36V DC input you can use ant of these adaptor that have between 12 to 24VDC.. they will work.

I know that many laptop psu that have like 18 to 20Vdc output generally work fine for that too.

You only need to ensure that the inruswh current when the contactor energize can be supplyed correctly. and that the psu have at least 4 or 5A output for that. You can also add a capactitor in parallel at the output to help for the inrush current of the contactors.

My actual mongoose work fine with a 4A 12V external psu from LCD monitor connected with 50 or 100Vdc on my konions.

Doc

I hope that help!
 
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