KiwiEVs next project fast EV

okashira is using another invertor and doing the coding himself , then using that to run the spark drive unit.
 
Well I finally hopefully sorted out the Hilux its back on the road, problem now is the gearbox is moved to the drivers side from the torque. The mount is only in the middle at the back, and is twisting from the front when I floor it.
I dont know if there are any upgrades for Toyota 5 speed gearbox mounts?

So I think know why I blew my primary controller, it was from the bearing encoder in the motor failure this could be due to 1100amps and high rpm lots of EMF. Which a magnetic bearing encoder would not like. To give HPEV credit they gave me a new controller half price and a free optical encoder to bolt on the front, I was out of warranty.

So it cost me
1 x controller
2 x fuses I blew one seeing that was the problem
2 x contactors tgey welded when the fuse blew
1 x optical disc I bent the first one installing.

Still its great to have back on the road doing solar power free miles.

Cheers Kiwi
 
kiwiev said:
Well I finally hopefully sorted out the Hilux its back on the road, problem now is the gearbox is moved to the drivers side from the torque. The mount is only in the middle at the back, and is twisting from the front when I floor it.
I dont know if there are any upgrades for Toyota 5 speed gearbox mounts?

So I think know why I blew my primary controller, it was from the bearing encoder in the motor failure this could be due to 1100amps and high rpm lots of EMF. Which a magnetic bearing encoder would not like. To give HPEV credit they gave me a new controller half price and a free optical encoder to bolt on the front, I was out of warranty.

So it cost me
1 x controller
2 x fuses I blew one seeing that was the problem
2 x contactors tgey welded when the fuse blew
1 x optical disc I bent the first one installing.

Still its great to have back on the road doing solar power free miles

Cheers Kiwi
so even the ol' warp 9s can do some serious gearbox twistn' then eh? 8)
 
kiwiev said:
I blew my warp 9 3 years ago they dont like reving for very long lol,

Thanks for the kinds words guys.
Cheers Kiwi
sorry i missed that :lol:
so which gearbox mount twisting beast was the culprit?
 
ridethelightning said:
kiwiev said:
I blew my warp 9 3 years ago they dont like reving for very long lol,

Thanks for the kinds words guys.
Cheers Kiwi
sorry i missed that :lol:
so which gearbox mount twisting beast was the culprit?

The duel HPEV AC-35 its only 190 ft lb but twice what the ICE motor put out not sure how I'm going to stop it

Cheers Kiwi
 
So the Toyota Hilux is going well in the cold my 18 km trip into town uses around 16 % in the summer it was 12 % but once the batteries have had a bit regen and acceleration they warm up after this and range stays the same.
My reptile battery heaters help a lot, also I am running my ceramic heater on the way in 1500 watts heats the car up in about 10 minutes then I turn it off.
May do the hill climb in the spring I can take the tub off which is about 200kg.

Cheers Kiwi
 
Had the Toyota Hilux up on the hoist today to check out the gearbox twist I managed to squeeze in another washer under the drivers side motor mount to push the motor gearbox back over. Still need to work out a solution at the gearbox tail shaft end.

you can see in the photo the gearbox is not level with the sway bar. :evil:

Ordered new front disc pads and slotted drilled rotors

Cheers Kiwi
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3815.JPG
    IMG_3815.JPG
    70.7 KB · Views: 3,349
  • IMG_3816a.JPG
    IMG_3816a.JPG
    30.8 KB · Views: 3,349
Jayls5 said:
Could you tell me what your current nominal voltage is and how much it sags under full ~1000A load? Thanks!

According to the curtis controller hour glass read outs I can get 550amps per controller and min voltage 138 volts this is with the pack hot off the charge at 168 volts. 170 volt controllers will fault.

Cheers Kiwi
 
The EV ute is becoming a daily driver we had light snow today, and with the reptile heaters on in the battery boxes it really stops the voltage sag, got down to 132 volts on the hills.
Also the Amazon ceramic heater is great keeps the edge off the cold, I really wish I had mains power so I could charge more and drive more, it all revolves around my stand alone solar system. On a sunny day I can make 40 KWhs. Got home early from work and finally made up a frame for a lid on the back of the tub hopefully this will be more aerodynamic. Will glue the lid on with sicaflex tomorrow and peel off the plastic.

Cheers Kiwi
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3822.JPG
    IMG_3822.JPG
    59.5 KB · Views: 3,275
  • IMG_3823.JPG
    IMG_3823.JPG
    44.9 KB · Views: 3,275
  • IMG_3824.JPG
    IMG_3824.JPG
    45.8 KB · Views: 3,275
Cowardlyduck said:
Looking great mate!
You could always upgrade the cells in your cars/bikes and use the used cells in your solar setup for some extra off-grid capacity.

I can't recall, does the Hilux have a lockable center diff that you retained? How does the 4WD system go with the electric motor pushing it along?

Cheers

One day I would like to up grade the cells and that would be great idea for the solar. The Hilux is 2wd and has a lsd diff.
Cheers Kiwi
 
So correct me if I'm wrong here. You're running 48S1P 160A Winston LiFePO4 cells.

Going uphill you've got sag to 132v pack voltage, which equates to 2.75v per cell under max load. Total pack weight, 282 kg (620 lb) for ~24.5 kWh at 100% DOD.

If you were to swap to Tesla modules, you could do 7S2P (modules), (42S148P cell level). You would charge to the same voltage for a nice safe ~80% capacity (4v per cell) charge. Pack weight would increase to 350 kg (770 lb) for a conservative estimate of 50 kWh usable even with undercharging.

Tesla modules at 1100A discharge would be 2.36 C. Your voltage sag would be far less, allowing higher peak power through the vast majority of the discharge curve, which I think would more than make up for the slight increase in weight. Basically... more than double the range and faster by just changing the cells. I know it's an expensive investment, but if you could purchase a salvaged base model Model S, you could yank them from that. :mrgreen:

Just throwing it out there.
 
Jayls5 said:
So correct me if I'm wrong here. You're running 48S1P 160A Winston LiFePO4 cells.

Going uphill you've got sag to 132v pack voltage, which equates to 2.75v per cell under max load. Total pack weight, 282 kg (620 lb) for ~24.5 kWh at 100% DOD.

If you were to swap to Tesla modules, you could do 7S2P (modules), (42S148P cell level). You would charge to the same voltage for a nice safe ~80% capacity (4v per cell) charge. Pack weight would increase to 350 kg (770 lb) for a conservative estimate of 50 kWh usable even with undercharging.

Tesla modules at 1100A discharge would be 2.36 C. Your voltage sag would be far less, allowing higher peak power through the vast majority of the discharge curve, which I think would more than make up for the slight increase in weight. Basically... more than double the range and faster by just changing the cells. I know it's an expensive investment, but if you could purchase a salvaged base model Model S, you could yank them from that. :mrgreen:

Just throwing it out there.

That's a great idea, my pack only sags to 146 volts in the summer.

We don't get many Tesla wrecks down in Australia yet the odd one or too but we have our names down, I could turn my Winston pack into a fast charger do you know if one more cell would be enough?

Thanks Kiwi
 
Also got the tub lid on to day really happy how it turned out, will test tomorrow on my run into town to see if it makes a difference. :?


Cheers Kiwi
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3832.JPG
    IMG_3832.JPG
    43.6 KB · Views: 3,238
  • IMG_3831.JPG
    IMG_3831.JPG
    52.9 KB · Views: 3,238
kiwiev said:
That's a great idea, my pack only sags to 146 volts in the summer.

We don't get many Tesla wrecks down in Australia yet the odd one or too but we have our names down, I could turn my Winston pack into a fast charger do you know if one more cell would be enough?

Thanks Kiwi

I'm not sure what you mean by "one more cell" being enough. For a fast charger? Of what?

By the way, the rear cover looks great. It's nice to be able to tell if mods like that make a difference just by monitoring cruising power consumption.
 
If I connected up 49 s 1 p and used a solar controller i can get and program to charge to say 170 volts could I directly plug that into the Tesla pack and dump 20 kwh into it? I can find any sort of charge controller for that on the web.

Cheers Kiwi
 
Love the tray mate!
You know what I see when I see a large flat sky facing surface like that....the perfect place for a whooping big solar panel.
You should totally load up the tray (and roof for that matter) with solar panels for some extra juice. Yeah, it won't be much, I know from first hand experience, but it would give you maybe 5% extra range per day, plus reduce the charging load on your off-grid setup. It would also allow you to just leave it parked outside when not in use and over the course of a 2-3 weeks would charge from empty to full....just like my recumbent. :)

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Love the tray mate!
You know what I see when I see a large flat sky facing surface like that....the perfect place for a whooping big solar panel.
You should totally load up the tray (and roof for that matter) with solar panels for some extra juice. Yeah, it won't be much, I know from first hand experience, but it would give you maybe 5% extra range per day, plus reduce the charging load on your off-grid setup. It would also allow you to just leave it parked outside when not in use and over the course of a 2-3 weeks would charge from empty to full....just like my recumbent. :)

Cheers

I Know mate but 1500mm x 1850mm isn't solar panel friendly lol unless you know off some??


Cheers Kiwi
 
kiwiev said:
If I connected up 49 s 1 p and used a solar controller i can get and program to charge to say 170 volts could I directly plug that into the Tesla pack and dump 20 kwh into it? I can find any sort of charge controller for that on the web.

Cheers Kiwi

As long as you're using a charge controller to limit the amps being fed between the two packs, I wouldn't see a problem with it. It would be the worst idea ever if you didn't use a charge controller though, because the only thing that would dictate the charge rate would be the voltage differential and the resistance between the two packs. It would surely exceed the continuous charge rate if you had a dead pack on one side and a full on the other.
 
kiwiev said:
I Know mate but 1500mm x 1850mm isn't solar panel friendly lol unless you know off some??
I used the 15W semi flexible panel from Jaycar on my recumbent. There is a 100W version:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/100w-12v-semi-flexible-solar-panel/p/ZM9155
100w-12v-semi-flexible-solar-panelImageMain-515.jpg

The great thing about these is you can easily trim off the white boarders for some extra room if you need it. I did that on my recumbent panel and it's been fine.
You could fit 3 of those on your tray, probably another on the roof, and if you want another couple on the bonnet. That would give you 600W of potential charging power in full sun.

Or if you want something a bit cheaper, 2 of these would fit perfectly on your tray and give the same 300W
https://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-150w-monocrystalline-solar-panel/p/ZM9059
12v-150w-monocrystalline-solar-panelImageMain-515.jpg


Or even better a combination of both since your tray is flat to suit the rigid panels, and the flexible panels will easily conform to your roof and bonnet.

And yeah, obviously like Jayls5 said a charge controller is a must, but I'm sure you already knew that. There are plenty of cheap 600W capable MPPT charge controllers out there.

Cheers
 
Back
Top