HP ESP120 48V (51.4V) 57A 3KW Server Supply Thread

liveforphysics said:
I recently gave away the 6 of them that I had or I would be a tester for you. I'm glad you've got them figured out, and I'm shocked more Zero owners are jumping on running them as home fast charging stations (just because they are a little heavy and bulky to carry for only 3kW).
Click to expand...
For a long time I used two with a 12v meanwell as my 6kw charger for my zero. Its handy but its not often I need to fast charge at home.

I still have that kit to build up as well... I am thinking about getting 6 more of these for fast charging for my car.
 
Arlo1 said:
liveforphysics said:
I recently gave away the 6 of them that I had or I would be a tester for you. I'm glad you've got them figured out, and I'm shocked more Zero owners are jumping on running them as home fast charging stations (just because they are a little heavy and bulky to carry for only 3kW).
Click to expand...
For a long time I used two with a 12v meanwell as my 6kw charger for my zero. Its handy but its not often I need to fast charge at home.

I still have that kit to build up as well... I am thinking about getting 6 more of these for fast charging for my car.
Click to expand...

For a car where you can just load them into the trunk and unload them at the track or dyno they would be pretty ideal for $/Watt.

They are like 100Watt/$.
 
I only need two ESP-120's to charge my batteries, so they live permanently under the passenger seat without too much drama ( other than salt air )...

Actually Just answered a question for myself... "if only they were liquid cooled" maybe I could liquid cool them by attaching a copper tube to the huge heatsinks and using an over-clockers cooler... hmm.... More drama, more to go wrong... Apparently a 0.05 micron filter may remove sea salt. The problem is actually condensation on the body as it cools once powered off I think.
 
If I ever get mine going, my thought is to have it onboard as a mountable module in the same place that an exhaust pipe would go- my Native even has the exhaust bracket still on, so that's an easy mounting point. Maybe I'd put it inside a pipe or something to keep it dry in case I got caught in the rain. Some appropriate connectors for AC in/DC out, thoughtful hardware to mount/dismount, and I'm good to go!

Although I can't help with any of the tasks listed, I am going to risk trying my unit on DC input. The flashing light/no output status I can't shake will be be enough to go on, I think, to see if it dies with DC input. As long as it does the same thing on AC as it does on DC, I think it's safe to say it's DC-compatible. I want this in order to be able to use it from the 200-250VDC available from my Prius HV battery, which would allow mobile/rescue charging.
 
liveforphysics said:
Arlo1 said:
liveforphysics said:
I recently gave away the 6 of them that I had or I would be a tester for you. I'm glad you've got them figured out, and I'm shocked more Zero owners are jumping on running them as home fast charging stations (just because they are a little heavy and bulky to carry for only 3kW).
Click to expand...
For a long time I used two with a 12v meanwell as my 6kw charger for my zero. Its handy but its not often I need to fast charge at home.

I still have that kit to build up as well... I am thinking about getting 6 more of these for fast charging for my car.
Click to expand...

For a car where you can just load them into the trunk and unload them at the track or dyno they would be pretty ideal for $/Watt.

They are like 100Watt/$.
Click to expand...


And quite simple to "make go" non of this non sharing CAN documents BS.
 
SpmP said:
The problem is actually condensation on the body as it cools once powered off I think.
Click to expand...
Just ensure the temperature of the coils doesnt' drop below the dew point at the time, and you'll be ok.

You could use a thermostat to cease circulation a bit above the highest temperature you know a dewpoint will occur at, placed just past the outlet from the PSUs.

Or you could use an air humidity sensor along with an air thermometer a bit away from the setup (so it's heat doesn't register) along with an op-amp setup to combine the two readings (or MCU with appropriate programming) to determine the approximate dewpoint, and use that to offset the thermostat's reading to shutdown the circulation pump.

Or simply ensure your coolant is never dropped below the dewpoint. ;)
 
OK, news from my DC input experiment:

The PSU does not function on 220VDC input. However, interestingly, it started to function on AC just fine after I tried it on DC! I didn't try it on AC today before I tried DC- I should have. I'm happy it's working now, and I hope it turns out to be reliable!

I also tried a Sony APS-162 on 220VDC. It powered on just fine, although I did not load test it due to lack of time/setup.
 
aaah, oversharing... WHilst playing with my new cell top modules I managed to overcharge one cell all night.
Now dead, 0 ohms, and slow charging didn't recover it.
So there you go LiFePO4 is very sensitive 8(

Anyway, more serious matters, I am re-doing this charger sooner than later and have a question that one of you may know off the top of your head, or have a unit they are happy to kill in the process of finding out:

I2C has a separate power supply - i.e appears to be isolated from PSU -ve, and I want to modulate the output voltage via a I2C DAC, but the voltage out of the DAC needs to be 0-5V (or - something) relative to PSU -ve.
Can I tie the I2C ground and the PSU -ve together without BANG! and other adverse effects?

I could try this at home some time, but also risk then having one dead cell and one dead charger... feeling over cautious atm 8)

When I am done the block diagram and basic schematic I will ping you guys to check the github repo.

Anyone know of any easy Arduino -> Android frameworks or whatever. Old cell phones are cheaper than largish LCD's! Using Bluetooth or WiFi
 
All right, a picture and some words.
Feedback is greatly appreciated:

https://github.com/spmp/LiFePO4-Charge-Controller/tree/VersionDeux

I notice that for some reason I protected the Vsense pin with a Schottky diode to VCC, why? Is this faster/better than a zener? With a 1.1 Vref, then a 1.8V zener should have enough time to conduct right?
 
nedfunnell said:
OK, news from my DC input experiment:

The PSU does not function on 220VDC input. However, interestingly, it started to function on AC just fine after I tried it on DC! I didn't try it on AC today before I tried DC- I should have. I'm happy it's working now, and I hope it turns out to be reliable!

I also tried a Sony APS-162 on 220VDC. It powered on just fine, although I did not load test it due to lack of time/setup.
Click to expand...

It's old thread but I am having same issue. Is your PSU still working after it recovered? Any idea why it started working again? I don't understand how applying 220VDC would fix the issue.
 
IT is an old thread!
Sorry I can't help.
My ESP120's are still charging my LiFePO's happily.
I am slowing moving towards a new circuit board and controller, but interested in others efforts before I dive too deep. Who else has working controllers they would like to share?

I am looking to build modules to plug into the ESP120, one master controller, with the rest slaves so they can be stacked horizontally to support whatever voltage required. https://github.com/spmp/LiFePO4-Charge-Controller/tree/VersionDeux
Wow, that was two years ago, moving very slowly 8)
 
analog8484 said:
nedfunnell said:
OK, news from my DC input experiment:

The PSU does not function on 220VDC input. However, interestingly, it started to function on AC just fine after I tried it on DC! I didn't try it on AC today before I tried DC- I should have. I'm happy it's working now, and I hope it turns out to be reliable!

I also tried a Sony APS-162 on 220VDC. It powered on just fine, although I did not load test it due to lack of time/setup.
Click to expand...

It's old thread but I am having same issue. Is your PSU still working after it recovered? Any idea why it started working again? I don't understand how applying 220VDC would fix the issue.
Click to expand...

It was working the last time I checked, but I don't have it in use so this post was probably the last time I took it off the shelf. Still no idea why the DC would have done anything- if it did and it wasn't just random. I've been thinking of trying this PSU off of 360VDC from my Chevy Volt, I'll post back if I do. Hopefully they used 400v rated components on the input side.
 
Hi guys!
A few days ago, I became the owner of this wonderful power supply. I read the whole topic, but did not find answers to a couple of questions, since I read the forum through an online translator.
My questions:
1. How to calculate the output voltage limiting resistor at 60.5 volts?
2. From what point to take the negative voltage to feed to the contact, where was the trimmer before? To adjust the voltage above 53 volts.

Good luck!
Victor.
 
Victor8 said:
Hi guys!
A few days ago, I became the owner of this wonderful power supply. I read the whole topic, but did not find answers to a couple of questions, since I read the forum through an online translator.
My questions:
1. How to calculate the output voltage limiting resistor at 60.5 volts?
2. From what point to take the negative voltage to feed to the contact, where was the trimmer before? To adjust the voltage above 53 volts.

Good luck!
Victor.
Click to expand...
I have one of these kits I need to dig out!
 
Calculation of the OVP resistor.
Please correct if it is wrong or has errors.
I will try to derive a formula for calculating the OVP resistor (the one that is on the bottom of the board). Initially, the OVP resistor, for a voltage of 51.7 volts = 47k. For 63 volts = 2.7k. This means 63-51.7 = 11.3V, and 47000-2700 = 44300 Ohm, 44300 ÷ 11.3 = 3920 Ohm / Volt
If you need a voltage of 60.5 V, then 63-60.5 = 2.5Volt × 3920 = 9800 ohms.

Victor.
 
Victor8 said:
Calculation of the OVP resistor.
Please correct if it is wrong or has errors.
I will try to derive a formula for calculating the OVP resistor (the one that is on the bottom of the board). Initially, the OVP resistor, for a voltage of 51.7 volts = 47k. For 63 volts = 2.7k. This means 63-51.7 = 11.3V, and 47000-2700 = 44300 Ohm, 44300 ÷ 11.3 = 3920 Ohm / Volt
If you need a voltage of 60.5 V, then 63-60.5 = 2.5Volt × 3920 = 9800 ohms.

Victor.
Click to expand...

So Maybe a 10k pot would work so it can be adjusted?
 
JoeG said:
I've had mine up to 56V by applying -0.6 volts to the voltage adjust pot pad. At positive 6, it goes down to about 24V. You have to remove the voltage adjust pot to apply the voltages. See attached picture. This mod is based on the work of a German group at this link, http://translate.google.com/translate?h ... md%3Dimvns .They don't state what negative voltage is required to get to 63V, but most likely it will be less the -5V. The rear pot pad gets the voltage, the front goes to the PSU's DC negative. You connect your control voltage ground to that.
Joe
Click to expand...

Who can tell where to connect the wires, instead of the cut trimmer?
 
JoeG said:
I've had mine up to 56V by applying -0.6 volts to the voltage adjust pot pad. At positive 6, it goes down to about 24V. You have to remove the voltage adjust pot to apply the voltages. See attached picture. This mod is based on the work of a German group at this link, http://translate.google.com/translate?h ... md%3Dimvns .They don't state what negative voltage is required to get to 63V, but most likely it will be less the -5V. The rear pot pad gets the voltage, the front goes to the PSU's DC negative. You connect your control voltage ground to that.
Joe
Click to expand...

Tell me where to connect the wires, instead of a trimming resistor, to adjust the voltage above 53 Volts?
http://www.ke9ns.com/SSAMP.html
Here is another link with the description, but because of the translation error, I can not understand where the orange and black wires are connected, instead of the amputated trimpot. Help me to understand.
 
You need to remove the trim pot to get the increase voltage mod to work. From the link you listed "Then you need to open up the power supply to remove the potentiometer used to set the output voltage level. The Red Arrow shows the small POT. Remove it and solder a lead to the leg on the side side (closest to the screw in the photo). You need to apply neg vdc to this point to raise the voltage beyond 53vdc. -1vdc = 56vdc. -2 vdc will get you 64vdc output"
 
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