$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

Yeah the lock would be paired to the 2 stage ignition on a moped etc, I've got a bluetooth sinewave controller im using that on my hub motor to keep it quite as I can rather than the bldc inrunner and chain on the scooter that can stay trapiz for the foreseeable.
 
I laced up my Conhismotor motor into a good quality double walled Sun-ringle Ryhno Lite with nipple rings (not sure what thats called), but had to drill out the valve hole for a shraeder, I love them locking valves on the Continental tubes. I just trued it up side to side no up/down, I never realized there was that factor.

I bought me one of those Controller Testers from EM3EV, so it should be easy for me to match the phase and hall from the Conhismotor Sinewave to the Sunwin.

To be honest, I have never gotten my Sunwin controller to run, havent really tried neither. I am always to eager to ride. Been out of the game for a few weeks now, used to do 30km at a minimum per day which is one full charge on my pack. About an hours charge with my Meanwells and I go again, usual ride on a weekend is 50km.

I am looking forward to hooking up the Sunwin and noticing the difference between the Conhismotor Sinewave controller and the Sunwin controller. I think I will be delightfully suprized. Just gotta rearrange my battery to 60V or go for my 84V for even more crazy ass speed. The Conhismotor Sinewave lists its rated aperes as 22A at 42Vmax(36Vnom) but I constantly go 1500W(35A), sometimes 1800W(42A) and max out at 2000W(47A) for a short period.

If I like the way my Sunwin rocks out, I will stick with them. To be honest, I dont really see a benefit to the Sinewave controllers. I am not really impressed with the Conhismotor kit I bought, but I am a heavy dude, was 330lbs now with my new meds I am reaching 400lbs.

I do some mods on the Sunwin, like beefing up the shunts for more current and beefing up whatever rails I need to do.

Does anyone have any good pictures of beefing up their shunt & rail?
I would love to have a peek at them. I may jut use a copper bar on the rail, and see what tricks are used on the beefier shunt.

I do want to buy a 48V just for the LVC, I know you can mod these for LVC.
 
I soldered the corner of the shunts only on my board there's a capacitor that is bit of a pain to get the iron tip in amongst but get some good heat in there and make sure the solder flows well heat the shunts a bit with the iron tip I did first, I didn't mod the traces and the controller still runs with barely any noticable heat and it's in a enclosed box on my scooter,

Unless a sine controller has field weakening and regen etc then the only gain to sine is a fractionally better efficent waveform but if it's a cheap controller I'd rather go with the trapiz and get more area under the waveform for more energy use but extra torque so in this respect the sunwins stand up quite well and only a decent sinewave controller with regen and field weakening is a worthy upgrade in my eyes.

Yes the rim needs to be true on all axis and centred best way is spoke length then finish on a truing stand.

I had cheap 6.5 tyres and it's caused me a nightmare on my scooter they are well over 1cm out of true the vibration is mad they dangourous and for the bin had a full refund amd ordering quality tubeless tyres problem is the market is flooded with China quality at that size there no decent approved tyres other than expensive racing tyres to soft a compound for my use I don't want a new tyre every 50-100miles.

I've also got a a2b metro build I'm tinkering with and that's got moped rims coming for it so that's gonna be fun getting spokes made and laced luckily there's no rush really and I'm I'm striding for a nice finished feel and look so I'm all out on this one balls to the wall no cheap parts are going to make it to this one.
 
I was curious about this controller and made a bid on a 72v 800w. It's not 14.99 usd anymore. Seems the sunwin boys have read this thread and rised prices. Cheap anyway and worth a shot for sure.
I have in stock 100v caps and irfb 4110 but i noticed the caps were already 100v and i thought wtf? why not give a chance to the brand new fets that come installed so i just beefed up the traces. My hands shake a lot lately and i did a lousy job but working anyway so i went ahead. I am not into ebikes lately so i had my nephew test it. The result was better than expected. His bike made 70 kmh with a peak of 95 amps on 18s battery. I read somewhere bsatom saying his breaker trips so i put a 100amps breaker.
before10.jpg

after10.jpg

fets10.jpg

speed10.jpg

amps10.jpg

breake10.jpg

I dunno how long will this controller last but for the price i paid it's worth it so far.
 
Had a quick look though this post and it looked like there still isn't any programming software for it.
I tried using something i had on my PC for Infineon controllers, i believe, but that didn't seem to do anything.(fair enough ;) )

Which lead me to wonder if i was connected to the right pads on the PCB so i started probing around.
Looking at the TX pin there certainly was some data being sent out on power up.
ASCII "U" plus a non readable byte, x10, about 20 bytes total @38400bpS. (I'll post the data files later)
So this all seemed reasonable so i thought I'd have a look at the RX pin.
There was data there too but unfortunately the software seemed to be sending out at about 1000bpS.
Then things got a little weird because i realised the PC wasn't actually sending anything out but rather the controller was transmitting more data on the RX pin!? (once again I'll post this data later)

can anyone confirm this, just wondering if i have a faulty controller?
 
bj001 said:
can anyone confirm this, just wondering if i have a faulty controller?
Maybe it's not a programming port, but rather an LCD (or other display unit) port?
 
Does anybody know whether these controllers have regen? I have a 1500W ShangHai SiCan Industry controller, which looks exactly as these Sunwin Controllers. I can switch it between 48V/60V/72V and it has 3 wires for braking. Brake High, Brake Low, E-ABS. I have E-ABS turned on and when I brake with brake low connected I can feel a strong drag from the motor, but I can't measure any current flowing back to the battery, only sometimes it shows very little current flowing back for a very short time (like 0,7A). Anyone tried to measure regen on these controllers?
 
No regen unfortunately, it uses power to slow the motor it's must be out of phase or something but definitely no regen but I've never used the braking feature to measure how much power it would use I thought I would give this time for my motor to get some slack and move some heat to my disc brake rotors.
If a motor is in regen or power constantly then running it past nominal is risky there's never cooling time so if your flat out on it then down steep hills it's going to get baking hot regen needs to be used wisely only on a motor that's not pushing peak power for long durations with lots of bug down hill regen spikes, And same for the battery theres no down time so it need a to be oversized to deal with the added stress and heat, I know people will tell me bollocks but it's true regen is a cruel mistress it's doesn't always give you more power it can end your rides day too mosfets frying the lot so be careful and allow wiggle room if regening.
 
PeterEnis said:
I have E-ABS turned on and when I brake with brake low connected I can feel a strong drag from the motor, but I can't measure any current flowing back to the battery, only sometimes it shows very little current flowing back for a very short time (like 0,7A).
EABS seems to be a term used more for actual powered braking of the wheel, rather than regen. If yours is like this, then it usually brakes harder than regen, and stays hard down to a much lower speed (some can actively hold the wheel still even at a stop). But it *uses* power to do this, so you'll see power still being consumed rather than recharged, if you're watching your wattmeter during braking on a ride.

I have EABS on the right rear wheel of SB Cruiser, while the very similar controller on the left rear wheel only has regen. There is actually significant brake steer toward the right due to the much higher braking forces of the EABS.
 
I've contacted Sunwin on Ebay and they told me it doesn't have regen. So it's really just an electrical brake. What's interesting that it doesn't use power to brake, my wattmeter always shows 0W when I brake. I guess it just shorts the phase wires at a high frequency for braking. It's a really strong brake and it works until 5 kph. Also my motor (9C clone) gets super hot when I brake at 70 kph on a steep hill, so I won't use it.
 
Samd said:
Well I scratched off the 72v LVC pads on the pcb and it didn't run 10s. But it did run 15s. Can't test 13s or 14s.

And it's nice and smooth.

Also it runs sensorless!!!

Thats good news, hopefully all of Sunwins controllers are sensorless. Really did not want to swap out my MXUS 3KW in Crystalyte DH rim to my wimpy ass Conhismotor. Now I just run MXUS 3K with Sunwin Sensorless and hopefully ride tomorrow.

Can you confirm all your Sunwins ran sensorless, and if so, hows it done? Any jumpers? Is it that self learn wire(s)?

I might as well get out my 72V Sunwin and start playing with it. Really want to ride again, I feel naked and afraid without my wheels man.

Also I hope someone responds today.
 
I think its wise to have a spare controller that is sensorless, Greentime has them at a decent price.
I hope to have something fabbed up today until my SS41 sensors come in, they are so small that I lost my few spares. This time they are being taped to the tote box. Also good to have 2 or 3 running systems so when one needs some loving you can ride the other one.

I havent seen any Sunwin 36V controllers, that would be my third purchase from Sunwin.
 
Couple hours in trying to hook up my 60V cont to my MXUS, One cable is labeled "Speed" by Sunwin which I assumed to be speedometer, but the wires are red, black, blue which I should have clued into. Was fussing around with the "Self Study" while "Self Study" was spinning and I snip off "Speed" and it changes direction. Thats a good sign. The "Speed" connector is the throttle, which makes sense, and its not Speedometer. I just thought it was some crazy Chinese wiring.

I have ANOTHER set of 3 wires that are snipped that I (that's right I) labeled Throttle, BLUE, YELLOW, RED. The stock Sunwin label is long gone. What I did was labeled them when all the tiny Sunwin labels were on when it was new. I dunno what I did there LOL. Does anybody know what those set of wires is labelled as?

Hopefully I can get dis beatch rolling!

A good practice I do is take a picture of all the connectors of the brand spanking new controller when it arrives, then use the Paint program to label the wires, and print it out.
 
Arggghhhhuh I am so happy I got eeerrrrrrrrr her going! The 4T MXUS 3kw on 60V is going to be much fun. I put lesser wires in her, 14awg ptfe teflon, the 12awg I couldnt quite get the cover plate over and it was always scraping my wires. Battery is now up for additions before I can ride her
 
I'm using a 4T MXUS (4504) in a 20" wheel on the left side of SB Cruiser, powered by a generic sensorless 15FET (probably similar to this Sunwin) modded from it's default 30-ish Amp ability by adding a fourth shunt, running on a 14s EIG pack (58v full charge). By itself it accelerates the heavy trike quickly, in a few seconds from 0-20MPH (the limit here). It's drawing 70-80A after the mod, at points during that acceleration. WIres are thin (probably 14g, maybe 12, cant' remember), as I had to replace the destroyed originals when I got it used.

In combination with an HSR3548 in an identical wheel on the right side, powered by an older Grinfineon 40A 12FET, the acceleration from 0-20MPH is sub-4-seconds. :)

It's fun. :)
 
I just unsoldered the blob of solder which I assumed was the LVC printed 60V. Just gotta be careful of the voltage now. I did not see a 48V marking on my pcb, the only ones I saw are 60V, 72V and 84V. Cant wait to do the shunt mod. With sunwins trap waveforms, the sine waveforms is a dream!
 
markz said:
Whats the total weight of that setup?
I don't actually know exactly.... :oops: Too heavy. I'd guess the trike itself weighs at least 300lbs, and I'm 180. But it can pull more than it's own weight easily enough (most so far I think is nearly 600lbs of dog food plus the trailer's weight--that was before the recent changes, so it could do it even better now. I'd like to try towing a car, just to see.... :lol: ).


the cut-off voltage is 52V
I might be thinking of a different controller, but there are some that have jumpers for the pack voltage you're using, soldered to the board inside.


Shunt mod looks like a good idea, more amps is always good!
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Until the controller blows up. ;) Remember that once you do a shunt mod, the controller's info on how much current is flowing is always wrong, so it can't protect itself anymore.

I did mine by adding a shunt in parallel (taken off a dead controller) so that I would not have trouble undoing the mod if it was problematic (but hadn't yet smoked the controller).
 
Whats the deal with the two voltage controllers, looking at the 48V+72V and its a whopping $72cdn.
Must just be higher voltage capacitors and a switch that toggles the LVC.
 
Been having troubles with my 60V 800W unit. When I disconnected the red wire from the 5 sense, it runs perfectly. At first I thought one of my hall sensors was acting up, typical symptoms were happening. I know somewhere here on ES wanted that 48V 1500W at auction that ended yesterday :twisted:

Is there any real difference between the controllers, other then the LVC pads and the capacitors?

Once the controllers get to 2000W the price from hksunwin jumps quite a bit, whats that for, extra solder?
Same goes for the 2 voltage controllers.
 
I've finally set the man cave up with a decent workbench and I'm starting to get things done! Yes!

I've been playing with both the 1000w and 1500w versions of the controller without being able to get any movement from the motor at all (motor is a 1500w Leaf motor, already tested with a Grin Controller and worked perfectly immediately before starting to play with these controllers. definitely not a motor issue). The current setup is:

- Phase wires to same color phase wires on the motor
- Hall sensor wires to same color hall sensor wires on the motor
- Throttle wires to correct corresponding throttle wires on throttle
- self learn white wires plugged into each other on start up

No joy whatsoever.. hmm its like its not either getting the signal to allow turning on or theres no power going anywhere for some reason? not sure what the story is here.

All the other wiring from the controller is not plugged into anything. The wiring not plugged into anything includes:

- two unmarked grey wires with male and female JST (as if they are to be plugged into each other). Google tells me these are cruise control wires and shouldn't be creating mischief.
- two unmarked blue wires with male and female JST (as if they are to be plugged into each other). Google tells me these are e-abs control wires. Not sure what the story is with these.
- red lock cable?
- yellow brake hi cable
- 'speed' cables
- phase cable? what?
- anti theft cables?

1500w version also has a 'display' cable. not sure what display its design to use?
 
wipped open the 1000w version to see if theres any on board LEDs.. nada working.

been googling to see if there was a manual with these things that I was meant to get.. other than a picture or two on amazon there really doesnt seem to be any guidance out there on how these things work.
 
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