New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

andyme said:
oh no....first of all: many thanks for the fast reply...:)

i got myself extra long crank arms, just received them today....i can't believe this :shock: i cannot return them anymore and they were expensive and also i want to have longer crank arms...i will have to find a different solution....shoot...

do you know the reason behind this construction? I just cannot understand this...is there a thread where this is being debated?

What's to debate? This is a feature of (all?) mid-drive bikes; the motors typically push the chainline outboard from the center of the bike, and that's why the pedal is shifted outward. The Bafang people have apparently solved this with a special pedal arm, which is why Speady pointed you in that direction.

If you can't find the longer crank arm you want, I'm sure one can be made for you! My advice would be get the right Bafang unit Speady mentions and then have it lengthened. All this would take is a competent welder / fabricator, but a one-off might cost you $100 - depends on how friendly the workshop who does it is to you! :)
 
andy, this was my solution:
bjorsa said:
Oh, I also solved the ridiculous q-factor by ordering these (took A LOT of googling, I feel proud to be able to forum elf help at last):
https://www.mirandabikestore.com/cranks/27-delta-0-standard-cranks.html#/11-color-black/32-length-170mm/101-interface-interface_isis/109-q_factor-q_16
Left crank: 55Q:21
Right crank: Q:0
They have the added benefit of, you know, not being made from cream cheese, like the stock cranks possibly are.
 
thank you guys, i am having a hard time trying to understand why they make the right arm same as the left one and leave people bent on the bike..tthis cannot be healthy for the hip joints....anyways...thanks for the input. since i want to stick to my new 185mm crank arms i will try to see if i can find another way of solving this matter. but i will get one of the 2 proposed arms for the other bike. 8)
 
[youtube]w2R1Mac2jSY[/youtube]

36T and 11/32T, 36V 10Ah batt, 15A at display, this motor is a old version that can run 48V battery, i will make a video at 48V later .
I don t know if it s normal rpm for a 36V and would like to know if someone have the same results ....

carpe diem .
 
I just received the 52v version of the TSDZ2 (from eyebyesickle)... still don't have my battery but have a couple of questions I haven't found answers to:

1 - The motor has a cover (chainring side) where the wires go into. It has a small (couple of mm)exposed gap between the cover and the motor. Does water/mud going in there affect anything? Should I run some tape over the gap or something to make it more waterproof?

2 - Has anyone connected lights to theirs? Mine came with the cable that supports front and back lights, but wondering what kind of lights would work. I recall reading it's 6v output but that seems like an odd voltage for lights.

3 - Anyone hack the Bafang magnetic brake sensors to work with this system? I have hydraulic brakes so can't use the levers it comes with. I'll cut the wires from the TSDZ2 levers and splice them to the Bafang sensors, but those are 3 wire. I know I can probably figure out what wires to connect with a voltmeter but if someone has already done it then great :)

thanks!
 
Hi forsa355,

1/ You don't need to seal this hole. Behind the cover there is a cavity where you can insert wires that are too long. The wires coming from the motor are sealed between the motor and the cavity, so that no water can reach the unit internally.

2/ At least here in Europe 6V is a very standard voltage, it allows to recycle the lamps fueled by dynamo. Supernova or Lupine, both high-end German manufacturers, sell self-regulated lamps which can accept 6V-12V without any modifications.

3/ I am not competent, I let experts answer your question
 
In fact i just realized that rpm max are about the same at 36V and 48V, the only difference is due to the the supplementary force of the motor using 48V at same amper ( here 13 A ) .
Usefull rpm it s about 100 rpm max .
My motor is a standard 36V 4000 rpm .

I thanck using the same motor at 36V and 48V that it had better rpm at 48V ( using 90/100 rpm instead of 75/85 rpm with 36V batt ) but it s only watt influence ...

here a small video, climbing 4/5 %, 36V vs 48V : https://vimeo.com/237063713

it s seem ( just personnal feeling ) that max torque at 36v is at 75/80 rpm and at 48V 85/90 rpm .

If someone could make somme tests with a 4500 rpm/52V tsdz2 !?

forum534348_L.jpg
 
Forsa, the brake cut-off on the TSDZ2 is a simple switch whereas the bafang detects a magnet target and is quite different. The TSDZ2 cable is quite short (and I had to cut it to get it out and re-solder) so you’re a little limited to where you put the switch. I glued it to the body of the brake and attached a post to the lever and it works.

However, unless you are using the thumb throttle which can stick on, I doubt you’ll ever need the cut-off. The motor stops as soon as you stop pedalling.
 
You could just convert the rear brake into a mechanical disk brake, it's not as important as the front. If course that all depends on how you ride, if you do alot of very technical singletrack downhill, you probably want to best brake performance possible. I think for most other non-competitive riding situations, a mechanical rear brake is fine. Then if for some reason the bike wants to drive off randomly, you just have to use the rear brake the cut it off.

There's also this Tripwire style brake cutoff, works on hydraulic brakes too, it's $40. http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/tripwire.html#models
 
James Broadhurst said:
Forsa, the brake cut-off on the TSDZ2 is a simple switch whereas the bafang detects a magnet target and is quite different. The TSDZ2 cable is quite short (and I had to cut it to get it out and re-solder) so you’re a little limited to where you put the switch. I glued it to the body of the brake and attached a post to the lever and it works.

However, unless you are using the thumb throttle which can stick on, I doubt you’ll ever need the cut-off. The motor stops as soon as you stop pedalling.

The TSDZ2 is just a simple switch... I'm hoping the Bafang sensors work like a normally open switch and I can just splice the wires together. Or do the Bafang sensors need power to work?
 
I posted a short review on page 10 & 11 in the spring.

After 5000 km, I can definitely recommend this motor. The only issue I've had is that it has "skipped" gears a few times when pushing hard and lately I've been more careful with it. The Chinese don't seem to understand that a 100 kg guy with clipless pedals might also want to enjoy their products. Apart from the gear issue, the quality has still exceeded my expectations. Not bad for a ~400 € motor.
 
Hello,
I am very interested by this motor.
I plan to buy a 48V 500W version + a 700Wh battery.
I almost ordered a kit from recycles-ebike.com but no payment methods are available on the site ? Plus They don't answer my email telling theme it doesn't work.
Strangely I noticed that eyebyesickle removed the link to this website recently.

Anyone informed ?
Any links to a reliable reseller that ships to France (I am especially concerned by battery quality)

Remi
 
I JUST moved US warehouse locations, and am trying to get the website smoothed out. I have to go through each ad individually, to adjust shipping/tax etc...and it's taking forever, and I was getting overwhelmed with emails! I just got settled into the new space, and will be working on the website all weekend! Thanks
 
I can confirm that eyebyesickle has top notch customer service after the sale. With his relocation , it may take him a few days to get things smooth again, but I was very happy with his customer service .
 
rumme said:
I can confirm that eyebyesickle has top notch customer service after the sale. With his relocation , it may take him a few days to get things smooth again, but I was very happy with his customer service .

I'll throw in my support for eyebyesickle as well... I haven't even begun my build yet and he's been very responsive to my questions in PM. He sent me a Paypal invoice once I picked what I wanted to buy.. didn't specifically use his website to by my motor etc.
 
remremi said:
Hello,
I am very interested by this motor.
I plan to buy a 48V 500W version + a 700Wh battery.
I almost ordered a kit from recycles-ebike.com but no payment methods are available on the site ?

Remi

I also recommend eyebyesickle or http://recycles-ebike.com. Helpful and responsive to inquiries.
If you're purchasing from France you can save on the exchange rate by using transferwise.com
 
mrhedstrom said:
I have tried to read this thread but can't find what I'm looking for. I have bought the TSDZ2 VLCD5 36V 250W with y connector for lights at 6V. I haven't received it yet so I can't test or look at the controller myself. My question is, does anyone know the max load for this output?
In previous posts I have read that this is the green wire to the sensor and it's regulated to 6V. Hopefully someone in this forum know the answer or someone has a controller accessible and could follow the green wire and see what component is used for 6V reg.
I've been asking since June about this. I've bought some lights and stuff, and will wire it with a solid state relay and an external voltage converter cause no one can confirm an ampaciy for this control line.
 
squee22 said:
mrhedstrom said:
I have tried to read this thread but can't find what I'm looking for. I have bought the TSDZ2 VLCD5 36V 250W with y connector for lights at 6V. I haven't received it yet so I can't test or look at the controller myself. My question is, does anyone know the max load for this output?
In previous posts I have read that this is the green wire to the sensor and it's regulated to 6V. Hopefully someone in this forum know the answer or someone has a controller accessible and could follow the green wire and see what component is used for 6V reg.
I've been asking since June about this. I've bought some lights and stuff, and will wire it with a solid state relay and an external voltage converter cause no one can confirm an ampaciy for this control line.

6v @ very low output - .5 amps...

perfect for a cheap pair like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Bike-Friction-Motorized-Generator-Dynamo-Rear-Tail-Light-Headlight-6V-3W-/142201598857?hash=item211be03389:g:6NgAAOSwXcRZbckx

but you dont have to use the dynamo generator part.6v@.5a is 3w...

the lights from this light are just for visibility, not so much a 'headlight'
 
eyebyesickle said:
squee22 said:
mrhedstrom said:
I have tried to read this thread but can't find what I'm looking for. I have bought the TSDZ2 VLCD5 36V 250W with y connector for lights at 6V. I haven't received it yet so I can't test or look at the controller myself. My question is, does anyone know the max load for this output?
In previous posts I have read that this is the green wire to the sensor and it's regulated to 6V. Hopefully someone in this forum know the answer or someone has a controller accessible and could follow the green wire and see what component is used for 6V reg.
I've been asking since June about this. I've bought some lights and stuff, and will wire it with a solid state relay and an external voltage converter cause no one can confirm an ampaciy for this control line.

6v @ very low output - .5 amps...

perfect for a cheap pair like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Bike-Friction-Motorized-Generator-Dynamo-Rear-Tail-Light-Headlight-6V-3W-/142201598857?hash=item211be03389:g:6NgAAOSwXcRZbckx

but you dont have to use the dynamo generator part.6v@.5a is 3w...

the lights from this light are just for visibility, not so much a 'headlight'
Oh thanks. So the relay is the right call for me.

I'll update you all on the project when I have time to do it.
 
Does anyone know the part number or SKF-number of the left side crank bearing(s)?

Or perhaps the dimensions? I think it is 28*15*7, but I need it verified.
 
So, I was going to chime in with another "me too!" about Eye being a good vendor, but I'd just gotten a replacement VLCD-5 from him for one that didn't work right and hooked it up and the damned thing - new one - didn't work at all!! ... OK, by "at all," I mean that the throttle system didn't work. This was a vital point for me because I have an injured leg and can't add much of any power to the bike on my own - which is why I have a throttled system in the first place. (It did power up.) I was pretty annoyed, pissed off, etc, BUT, I knew better; it was late, maybe I made a mistake, bent a pin, etc. So, I did the right thing and STFU already.

The next day I had some time and went methodically through it. I unplugged everything and checked, no bent pins. Got it all back together and I was thinking I'd have the same result because I found no errors... BUT NO! It worked fine! :D I can just guess that unplugging and re-plugging had fixed some glitch somewhere. A good guess would be one of the throttle-related parts. A brake cut-out switch could have prevented the motor from turning at all, or the throttle might have not been fully seated or something and so it didn't get the signal. ... I really don't know what it was, but today I took it out on a ride!

Today I went 7 miles with the San Rafael - the bike whose VLCD-5 just got changed - over virtually flat ground (doubt there was 10' in elevation change over any of it - just curbs and the like), at about 10' above sea level, towing my usual trailer, one way empty and the other way loaded with around 100 lbs - and me at around 200 lbs (6'3") and the bike itself - not quite but almost entirely using the throttle and with me putting in some but not much energy due to my bum knee. I started with a freshly charged battery and recharged when I got back. Traffic was fairly light but there were lots of stops and I went as fast as I could. I was shocked I got it up to around 24 MPH, 8) though most of the trip was peaking more like 20 and ... I forgot to capture the average, but it's still in the bike if I go look! AND... It took 3.41 Ah to do those 7 miles. I was most pleased when I got it up over 20 MPH in fairly thick traffic for all of a half mile or so, and I got a lot of respect from drivers who, I imagine, were thinking that here's a bike pulling a loaded trailer at over 20?! Bravo! :lol: There were no near-misses this time!

Here's the charger following the top-up after the trip:

file.php


So, that's 0.49 amp hours per mile, or, 2.05 amp hours per mile! Not bad, methinks! Now, it's true, back in June when I was in good shape (before I injured my leg), riding my Legran (with TSDZ2 48V 15A), I could get a lot more than THREE TIMES that, not much short of four times, I still consider this an awesome feat. With the Legran, I think my theoretical maximum range is around 95 miles, give or take a few, and the theoretical here is only around 26.

It's also worth reporting that I got better miles per hour by LOWERING the gear from top gear some. I think I was in 52 X 13 or maybe 52 X 15 when I reached around 24 MPH. When I was in 52 X 11, it was more like 17 or 18 MPH max. ALSO worth noting that I have 29" tires! AND, this is one of those special 18A units Eye sells; I bumped up the setting in the VLCD-5 to .. um... I think 30A! :D Another point worth mentioning is that after I left I noticed I had a low front tire. However, I didn't bother to fix it due to time - I had to run this errand without additional delay. I DID have a hand pump with me (and enough spares on board to replace a flat if need-be), but my plan was to keep a sharp eye on it and stop and add air if ever it became a real issue. But, it didn't change much on the trip. However, low air pressure will increase rolling resistance considerably and thereby decrease efficiency and top speed, so again, with today's result I'm pretty happy.
 
RTIII said:
Here's the charger following the top-up after the trip:

file.php


So, that's 0.49 amp hours per mile, or, 2.05 amp hours per mile! Not bad, methinks! Now, it's true, back in June when I was in good shape (before I injured my leg), riding my Legran (with TSDZ2 48V 15A), I could get a lot more than THREE TIMES that, not much short of four times, I still consider this an awesome feat. With the Legran, I think my theoretical maximum range is around 95 miles, give or take a few, and the theoretical here is only around 26.

How happy are you with the Satiator? The charger that came with my battery makes a whirring noise (fan, clearly). Tempted by the Satiator but it's almost the cost of the motor, given I'd have to import it and pay taxes. Looks neat though, especially as it's quiet, adjustable, extends battery life, allows faster charges and shows the Ah used.
 
aja said:
RTIII said:
Here's the charger following the top-up after the trip:

file.php


So, that's 0.49 amp hours per mile, or, 2.05 amp hours per mile! Not bad, methinks! Now, it's true, back in June when I was in good shape (before I injured my leg), riding my Legran (with TSDZ2 48V 15A), I could get a lot more than THREE TIMES that, not much short of four times, I still consider this an awesome feat. With the Legran, I think my theoretical maximum range is around 95 miles, give or take a few, and the theoretical here is only around 26.

How happy are you with the Satiator? The charger that came with my battery makes a whirring noise (fan, clearly). Tempted by the Satiator but it's almost the cost of the motor, given I'd have to import it and pay taxes. Looks neat though, especially as it's quiet, adjustable, extends battery life, allows faster charges and shows the Ah used.

I love the Satiator. I have two rates of charge programmed in right now for my "48V" lithium ion pack, 4 and 8A. I nearly always use 4A, and that's what you see the results of on the screen. I like how intelligent it is. If you leave it connected for some time after "charge complete", if you have a good BMS in your pack, you'll find the BMS will go into a cell leveling mode - at least, mine will. A minute or two after "charge complete" and the rate is zero, the BMS will ask for a little power to top up individual cells and the Satiator reflects this, telling you that its' now adding a little, what the rate is and what the new total is - its like auto-restarting the charging except that it knows the battery is the same one so it adds to the pre-existing statistics. The first few times I charged my brand new battery pack, the time this took was considerable. But as time has gone on, the balancing effort takes a lot less time - at least, that's my perception.

My only complaint of it is that they use this very well made, well designed, but VERY heavy intermediate jack (male / female pair) in order for the unit to accept alternative leads to different kinds of battery terminals. (Looks to me it's the exact same jack as is used for microphones in the USA - and other "professional" music connections for a sound stage.) I think they offer 4 kinds of what I would call a pig-tail (that goes from the intermediate jack to the battery) and you can also, of course, make your own. The problem is that they put this intermediate jack way out on the end of a fairly long lead so that the adapter lead you then connect to it is fairly short - WRONG WAY AROUND, if you ask me! FAR smarter would be to have that heavy adapter on a shorter lead and have the final pig tail be as light as possible and as long as needed. For me, it matters because the final connector into my battery isn't nearly as robust and hanging weight off it is a stupid idea. So, I have to somehow or other deal with supporting that weight other than just using the connector at the battery. But, I've gotten used to it.

Now that I think of it, smarter still would be either use a much lighter jack OR skip the damned intermediate jack entirely. I don't need the jack and I'd be just fine having two or more cables going all the way to the charger when I want to switch what connections I'm using. I guess they figure this way is faster and people want faster. -shrug-
 
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