My version of Friction Bike.

Ansis99

100 mW
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
38
Location
Latvia
After some years of thinking, finally I made my version of Friction Bike. Idea comes from here:



In my version there is the same principal, but I made it with local parts from Home Depot, eBay and local electronic shop.


Two 555 timers, 1 relay, two Voltage stabilizers, 2 switches, 4S 8.8A battery with charge controller from eBay, Brushless motor controller from eBay- for ebikes, not for RC planes and finally Servo motor with shock absorber from RC Car models.
Servo motor I control with constant current when it starts (300mA consumption, about 5W), after switch is deactivated it returns to the "rest point" no current is consumed. When all stay in rest, it eats about 50mA of Current.
Something like that :)
 
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I make my first ride in the wet weather. Bad results. Motor slips out. Maybe some of you guys know best sandpeper type, grit nummber or another technology? Just copy link here, I will read out. Thank you!
 
some discussion about that:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=friction+grip+&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=firstpost&sk=t&sd=d&sr=topics&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

Not all of them are relevant, but there's some good info in there. There's also other friction drive threads that discuss it; the search above only looks for threads whose first post has both friction and grip in it.
 
Hi! I spend 2 days and read out everything. Sandpaper with 80(60-100) grit is defolt choice. I bought anti slip tape, but... I am believer and I always take talk to my savior :). In the process of heavenly search I understand, the rubber sheet if I will properly glue everything in place, will be the best? And yes! I find rubber sleeve in my "Ksenukai" shop.
It is just my try, dont take it too seriously, right now because I dont know how it will be! :)
OK. Here is my setup. 24 hour water resistant rubber glue, rubbersleeve, ruler, scisorrs, slider, PVC 50mm pipe for propper diameter scale/adjuster and Acetone for cleaning everthing.
rsz_dsc_0313.jpg
After I does the job, everything looks like that.
Yes, I use PVC tape to hold it in place, make it more predictible (not to fly away if something go wrong).
0315.jpg
I will inform you about my experiment after testing in the autumn environment.
 
Hey
My sandpaper wore through rather quickly. Then I just went directly to the metal exterior of the motor. Took the paint off to bare metal where the tire is. I could feel a recess with my finger indicating metal was being worn away. Maybe to much pressure from motor to tire. Friction drive, easy to get the wheel to spin. Hard to manage the rest amps etc as it’s sensorless for most motors with not much reduction. You got a motor spinning by thousands of rpm when you need hundreds. They don’t have a nickname for a certain controller “castle cremations” for nothing. I told my wife someone was burning trash to give an excuse for the smell on my clothes. Uphill battle unless you know how to set up a proper esc.
 
:) I use this controller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-36V-500W-Brushless-Motor-Controller-PWM-Control-Balanced-Car-Driver-Board/282585505185?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Of cours, this is only 500W and 15A current limited device, but I hope will be OK.
P.S. Yes, Friction bike is not ideal, but we can try to make something usefull. Hubs or Middrive need battery. When battery go to rest we start to work... :)
 
Some news. Today I try to ride my bike, but with no success. The reason is relaited in my charger/ protection board. I buy 10A version which is too low. Today I buy 30A version from eBay. After unsuccesfull try I make my improvised test bench which I made from Bike training machine and my friction bike :).
rsz_dsc_0316.jpg
Test was successfull with 6A continues current draw, but it is not enough.
Positive news - Rubber sleeve survive! :).
 
Little bit about problems of this design. Motor weight is about 450 grams. In my construction when motor is deactivated it's position is not fixed (Servo motor just lift up it and switch off). Gravitational forces and driving conditions (bumps, holes, vibration of the road) throw motor down to the tyre :(. P.S. New controller is not arrive yet.
 
Today is the first happy day! New charger/ controler/ protector of battery pack work just fine. Rubber roller works good in moderate wet asfalt. I use this controller board.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4S-14-8V-30A-BMS-PCB-Protection-Board-18650-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery-Cell-Balance/172709387736?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

There is problem with this board! If you solder battery pack which is not balanced identically than controller go to sleep mode :(. For resolving that problem you must put about 20V in charge port for about 10 seconds. Than you must discharge pack with 4A Current (in my case) and charge it again with powerful charger board. After charging all battery packs are balanced and ready to work.

My setup is very very quit. It's because construction. I put rubber sleeves between mount and frame of bike. It is like that: frame=>rubber=>mount=>rubber=>washer=>bolt head. I hope you understand. Next big silencer :) is motor controller (500W from ebay). In the controller, there is Current protection about 15A, which means we must pedall. I try to drive with motor only, yes it works, but I have no power meter at my handle bar and I don't know when it switches OFF.

Next. I put rubber rings to pull my motor up for "rest point with fixation" without dropping down when I ride.

rsz_dsc_0318.jpg

Thats all for now.

:)
 
Hi! Some updates. Rubber sleeve on the motor works good, but only in dry weather.
I can ride about 20 km with my 4S 8A battery pack, fully charged with active pedaling.
I like this design, because it is light, helps in windy situations and when I pedalling against small hills. Of course that is nice to make this project and I think I done it good. Both protections (one inside motor controller, second mounted on battery pack) works good. No heat (on the heatsinks) if I pedall quickly.

There is some dhgate.com internet market. I find there this product:

https://www.dhresource.com/0x0s/f2-albu-g5-M00-6C-1F-rBVaJFla5_aABxVsAB0hkG8emnM769.jpg/replaceable-wheel-for-bicycle-booster-friction.jpg

I try to send message to the seller about product properties, but without success. Maybe some of you guys who buy something from dhgate store, can try to ask about this product?

P.S. One of my friend buy products (in dhgate), but he lost money, because of no PayPal money transfer system. I trust only PayPal. Thanks!
 
Hi! The summer is here and I decided to make some updates to my design. You remember of course my problem with motor slippery down. I made magnet motor holder. It is made from 90 degree mount bracket, modified to approximately 45 degree and glued 25mm magnet on the surface. All that is mounted with 3 SS screws. I hope it will works good. I painted motor holder in black. Thanks!
rsz_dsc_0339.jpg
 
Yesterday I made one experiment which was sucessfull. Idea was simple, to make magnet holder stronger. At first I think about epoxy, but it's messy and smelly. I does know about Super glue and Baking soda "plastic" trick, but never use it until now. Works like charm! I made aluminum foil borders and fill up inside space with SG and BS, than I remove excess and repeat some times. Result is strong plastic like compound.
rsz_dsc_0340.jpg
Yes, if you think about polishing this material, use Acetone. Just drop and polish or submerged in the Acetone to short period and polish or let it dry. Experimenting! :)
Here is painted version.
 
Hi! Today I decided to ride with my newly painted electric assistant bike. Results was grate and magnetic motor holder does work nice! No slippery at all. I am very happy! :) Now it looks much better too.
rsz_dsc_0346.jpg
 
Today I tested speed. Maximal speed is 35km/h, with fully charged battery.
With 4A load battery last 2 hours.
I install Speedometer and I will try to measure distance to fully empty battery 12,4V. Than I devide distance two times to calculate approximately distance with motor assistance. Something like that.
 
Yes. I take this part:

http://www.forcefix.lv/lv/produktu-katalogs/lenki/brusu-kurpe-iekseja
Brusu_kurpe_iekseja-ps-1600x1280-ds-wm.png


and modified. Correct size is 80x120 (Art. 72302) for my Merida mountain bike. There is aluminum plate too attached with 4 rivets. On this aluminum plate I mount Servo motor.

http://www.forcefix.lv/image/cache/data/products/Kniežu%20pistoles/kniedes/Iesitama_kniede_plata_galva_Al_A2-ps-1600x1280-ds-wm.png
Iesitama_kniede_plata_galva_Al_A2-ps-1600x1280-ds-wm.png
 
About battery charger.
Most of us have old notebook chargers, unused.
My Universal 80W charger is usable, but my battery pack controller consume huge amount of Current and it is dangerous for battery and power supply.
I use simple circuitry to reduce Current consumption.
Stravas ierobez'ota'js.GIF
As you see, there is simple solution, open Darlington transistor and Shotky barrier diode. You can use variable resistor to adjust proper amount of Power Consumption for your notebook charger. Schematic is here:

Power-Suplay-Tester.gif

I use aluminum heatsink and fun from old PC.

1_50.jpg

2_50.jpg

Good day!
 
Here is video of Static Driving :) in my home.
Maybe this is interesting for you.
:)
 
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Sad news. Servo motor faild. I use it for more than 1,4kg presure. Maybe 3kg presure to tyre? I broke something in gears mechanism. I will open servo and I give information with pictures. Bye!
 
Here it is.
rsz_dsc_0369.jpg
Update. Here is the reason why.
Axle of gear is too weak for that presure.
 
This post will be about - how to resolve this problem.
I understand this. Servo must be modified or changed to another, much stronger one.
I have many mechanics - friends. One of them tell me - buy another, the same and make some changes. 2 axes are the same diameter, 1,6mm. I will take a drill and make an axle! 1,6 mm drill is perfect axle. Flexible, strong. Next. The RC shock absorber have possibility to adjust force from 1,4kg to 3,0kg. I made a mistake :oops: and use brute forse to make contact with tyre... , but I needed adjust spring tension. :( OK, thats normal, at fist time...
sku_328569_1.jpg
When I recieve parcel from China and will make modification I will wright about it.
:)
 
For lighter folks who like to actually pedal and its all on fairly flat ground and no steep hills then friction drive is an option. You'd go through lots of tires so best to buy a tire with very thick road surface. I was thinking there are rc motors with very low KV, you might want to look into that, even take a ponder at Hobbyking, and https://alienpowersystem.com/
then use a chain or belt drive.
 
Thank you for your recommendations!
It is wise for peoples who drive a lot.
I am not that person. :)
For me it's a project, the different one from others.
I like idea to make "projects".
My friends do the same.
One makes boat, other electric car, drones, e.t.c.
It is our "men's world".
:)
This version of friction bike is interesting. My calculations tell to me, I can drive 60 km on one charge, because motor help me go fast and that is reason why battery last long. Without motor my speed drop to 20km/h and it is much harder to do the ride. With motor activated I can drive with "feelings". Very nice. :)
And yes, my "projects" are "cheep" in the base.
Sometimes they are successfull, sometimes not!
:)
 
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